Baby classic pattern planes are here!
#76
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It's patterned after the original, since that the plans I have. WIll update and offer both if I can get drawings for the 7 or 8. and there is enough difference. When shrunk down, I doubt if there will be much difference. The wings are pretty close, and the thicker stab on the 8 doesn't matter since the stab is 1/8" balsa on all the Baby planes to keep weight down.
Don
Don
#78

My Feedback: (1)
Don informed me that my BTM was shipped to me on Monday. I expect it to arrive today (USPS delays due to volume.. no big deal other than my being anxious..
)
I've started a build thread in the Beginners forum where I am also an RCU Mod. The reason for it in that forum is because, as far as I am concerned, I'm a novice when it comes to this sort of build.. foam wings and so on, and I thought other beginners may benefit by such a thread.
Anyway, I've had lots of help and suggestions as I go through the planning stages of the build process, such as, so far, electric power is what it's going to be. Not that I have anything against glow, but I have a small collection of electric motors and ESC's that I need to find homes for and the BTM seemed like as good a home as anything else I can think of.
Anyway, I will get it today and then the fun begins.
Don, I noted in your post above about the wing assembly and sheeting, is there a spar in that wing or is the sheeting strong enough? (I did say I was a novice at this.. ). Just curious, as I've not seen the build instructions yet.
CGr.
)I've started a build thread in the Beginners forum where I am also an RCU Mod. The reason for it in that forum is because, as far as I am concerned, I'm a novice when it comes to this sort of build.. foam wings and so on, and I thought other beginners may benefit by such a thread.
Anyway, I've had lots of help and suggestions as I go through the planning stages of the build process, such as, so far, electric power is what it's going to be. Not that I have anything against glow, but I have a small collection of electric motors and ESC's that I need to find homes for and the BTM seemed like as good a home as anything else I can think of.
Anyway, I will get it today and then the fun begins.
Don, I noted in your post above about the wing assembly and sheeting, is there a spar in that wing or is the sheeting strong enough? (I did say I was a novice at this.. ). Just curious, as I've not seen the build instructions yet.
CGr.
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From: Eureka Springs,
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immelman50
Yes it is the Phoenix 1...
CGRetired
No spars in a wing this size. You can go suprisingly big on a foam wing without spars. A dihedral brace that ties into the landing gear is all that is needed on bigger plans most of the time. A strip of fiberglass aroung the seam of the 2 wing halves is never a bad ides, built up wing or foam.
Don<br type="_moz" />
Yes it is the Phoenix 1...
CGRetired
No spars in a wing this size. You can go suprisingly big on a foam wing without spars. A dihedral brace that ties into the landing gear is all that is needed on bigger plans most of the time. A strip of fiberglass aroung the seam of the 2 wing halves is never a bad ides, built up wing or foam.
Don<br type="_moz" />
#80

Hello Don,
I have been daydreaming about the mini Curare for the past few days. I am considering adding the E-Flite .10 sized electric retracts to the plane just because it would be so cool. With that in mind, would I need to add a diehedral brace so that the landing gear anchors can tie to it? Or, adding a couple of 1/16 or 1/8 ply pieces which box the landing gear anchors onto the wing suffice? The box would probably go through the thickness of the wing and act as load spreaders.
Thanks,
Teo
I have been daydreaming about the mini Curare for the past few days. I am considering adding the E-Flite .10 sized electric retracts to the plane just because it would be so cool. With that in mind, would I need to add a diehedral brace so that the landing gear anchors can tie to it? Or, adding a couple of 1/16 or 1/8 ply pieces which box the landing gear anchors onto the wing suffice? The box would probably go through the thickness of the wing and act as load spreaders.
Thanks,
Teo
#81
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I would add a 1/8" ply or light ply dihedral brace that the retract mounts glue to. Or maybe use 1/16" ply and put one in front and one at rear of the retract mounts. since they are small enough to add little weight. Might be a little overkill, but it's there for the bad landing that would have trashed the plane otherwise. It depens on safety maring you are looking for.
You could get away without the brace, just rely on the fiberglass around the center. Only you know how your landings and field are
Don
You could get away without the brace, just rely on the fiberglass around the center. Only you know how your landings and field are

Don
ORIGINAL: viva_peru
Hello Don,
I have been daydreaming about the mini Curare for the past few days. I am considering adding the E-Flite .10 sized electric retracts to the plane just because it would be so cool. With that in mind, would I need to add a diehedral brace so that the landing gear anchors can tie to it? Or, adding a couple of 1/16 or 1/8 ply pieces which box the landing gear anchors onto the wing suffice? The box would probably go through the thickness of the wing and act as load spreaders.
Thanks,
Teo
Hello Don,
I have been daydreaming about the mini Curare for the past few days. I am considering adding the E-Flite .10 sized electric retracts to the plane just because it would be so cool. With that in mind, would I need to add a diehedral brace so that the landing gear anchors can tie to it? Or, adding a couple of 1/16 or 1/8 ply pieces which box the landing gear anchors onto the wing suffice? The box would probably go through the thickness of the wing and act as load spreaders.
Thanks,
Teo
#82

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Teo,
if I may comment... that is unnecessary on a model this size. A simple doweled 1/8" ply plate embedded into the surface of the core is all that is needed. You can see how I installed light mechanical retracts into a 40" span wing in this thread:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8196707/tm.htm
I'd say that the E-Flite gear while very nice is a little too large for classic models in the 40" span. It is better suited to models in the 3 to 4.5 lb range. Don's excellent mini pattern ships will probably weigh less than 2 lbs all up.
David.
if I may comment... that is unnecessary on a model this size. A simple doweled 1/8" ply plate embedded into the surface of the core is all that is needed. You can see how I installed light mechanical retracts into a 40" span wing in this thread:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8196707/tm.htm
I'd say that the E-Flite gear while very nice is a little too large for classic models in the 40" span. It is better suited to models in the 3 to 4.5 lb range. Don's excellent mini pattern ships will probably weigh less than 2 lbs all up.
David.
#83

David,
Thanks for the info. I have been reading the nanorare thread with great interest and now I will add your to my reading list. I have not physically seen the E-flite retracts, but they are listed as suitable for 2 to 3.5 lbs models. I did see some of photos of a set fitted into a ParkzoneTrojan which is roughly the same size as the mini's. That got me thinking that it would be possible.
Thanks,
Teo
Thanks for the info. I have been reading the nanorare thread with great interest and now I will add your to my reading list. I have not physically seen the E-flite retracts, but they are listed as suitable for 2 to 3.5 lbs models. I did see some of photos of a set fitted into a ParkzoneTrojan which is roughly the same size as the mini's. That got me thinking that it would be possible.
Thanks,
Teo
#84

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Teo,
by all means give it a try but keep in mind that the Trojan is a warbird (more or less) and has a considerably different nose than most of the classics. It also has a 44" span which at this scale is a big difference from say a 38" span TM. I think the two 42" span models (Curare and Phoenix) might be the better candidates for retracts while the 40" and under are better candidates for gearless builds.
If you want to set these up with trike gear, you will have to plan carefully for the fuel tank and/or battery in conjunction with the nose gear. In the 40" span Deception that I built, I used 1/2A to 10 size mechanical retracts and these were just right in terms of size and weight. Two servos are used for them because it is rather tricky to rig a single servo setup in a model this small. The NG servo is installed in the main radio compartment along with 3 other servos. That model has a total of 7 micro servos (3 others in the wing) but it also has over 300 squares of wing area. The total weight of the retracts and servos was probably 3.5 to 4 oz which is a factor in small models. The E-Flites are 5 oz for a three strut set so in a model who's target weight is 28-32 oz all up, 5 oz is a large percentage.
I think that if one were to use these units, going electric in power and perhaps just using mains (conventional setup) is the trick. I wouldn't want to install a trike set in a 38" span model - just too complicated for a model that small and light.
Just my 2c. Regardless, these little models ought to be a load of fun!
David.
by all means give it a try but keep in mind that the Trojan is a warbird (more or less) and has a considerably different nose than most of the classics. It also has a 44" span which at this scale is a big difference from say a 38" span TM. I think the two 42" span models (Curare and Phoenix) might be the better candidates for retracts while the 40" and under are better candidates for gearless builds.
If you want to set these up with trike gear, you will have to plan carefully for the fuel tank and/or battery in conjunction with the nose gear. In the 40" span Deception that I built, I used 1/2A to 10 size mechanical retracts and these were just right in terms of size and weight. Two servos are used for them because it is rather tricky to rig a single servo setup in a model this small. The NG servo is installed in the main radio compartment along with 3 other servos. That model has a total of 7 micro servos (3 others in the wing) but it also has over 300 squares of wing area. The total weight of the retracts and servos was probably 3.5 to 4 oz which is a factor in small models. The E-Flites are 5 oz for a three strut set so in a model who's target weight is 28-32 oz all up, 5 oz is a large percentage.
I think that if one were to use these units, going electric in power and perhaps just using mains (conventional setup) is the trick. I wouldn't want to install a trike set in a 38" span model - just too complicated for a model that small and light.
Just my 2c. Regardless, these little models ought to be a load of fun!
David.
#85

Hello guys,
Thanks for the info. I fly off grass and we do have a reasonably nice field so I think that the retracts would work, specially if the plane comes at the lower end of the allowable weight for the gear. My intent is to build the plane as a tail dragger in part to save some weight on the landing gear but also in order to give myself more room under the nose/ over the wing to fit the ESC and battery. The plane will be electric. That is why I thought the E-flites would work; they allow me to tap into the battery that I already have and skip the additional servo.
I would like to use the plane as a parkflyer/practice plane so I will also be looking for good performance. If I think the gear will add too much weight, I might go for a simply fixed gear or even a belly lander. I am not a bad pilot, but I would not consider myself a great pilot either, but for the most parts my landings are pretty smooth so I think I could make the retractable gear work. Actually, the only 10 I ever received in competition (flying sportsman right now) was for one of my landings at the last contest.
Thanks for the advice,
Teo
Thanks for the info. I fly off grass and we do have a reasonably nice field so I think that the retracts would work, specially if the plane comes at the lower end of the allowable weight for the gear. My intent is to build the plane as a tail dragger in part to save some weight on the landing gear but also in order to give myself more room under the nose/ over the wing to fit the ESC and battery. The plane will be electric. That is why I thought the E-flites would work; they allow me to tap into the battery that I already have and skip the additional servo.
I would like to use the plane as a parkflyer/practice plane so I will also be looking for good performance. If I think the gear will add too much weight, I might go for a simply fixed gear or even a belly lander. I am not a bad pilot, but I would not consider myself a great pilot either, but for the most parts my landings are pretty smooth so I think I could make the retractable gear work. Actually, the only 10 I ever received in competition (flying sportsman right now) was for one of my landings at the last contest.
Thanks for the advice,
Teo
#86
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The alternative would be to make a second wing, without retracts. A lot of the warbibird guys do that, so they have a sport plane for easy flying and on rough fields. Easily done, since you are doing a tail dragger, although you may need to mark 2 different battery locations.
Don
Don
ORIGINAL: viva_peru
Hello guys,
Thanks for the info. I fly off grass and we do have a reasonably nice field so I think that the retracts would work, specially if the plane comes at the lower end of the allowable weight for the gear. My intent is to build the plane as a tail dragger in part to save some weight on the landing gear but also in order to give myself more room under the nose/ over the wing to fit the ESC and battery. The plane will be electric. That is why I thought the E-flites would work; they allow me to tap into the battery that I already have and skip the additional servo.
I would like to use the plane as a parkflyer/practice plane so I will also be looking for good performance. If I think the gear will add too much weight, I might go for a simply fixed gear or even a belly lander. I am not a bad pilot, but I would not consider myself a great pilot either, but for the most parts my landings are pretty smooth so I think I could make the retractable gear work. Actually, the only 10 I ever received in competition (flying sportsman right now) was for one of my landings at the last contest.
Thanks for the advice,
Teo
Hello guys,
Thanks for the info. I fly off grass and we do have a reasonably nice field so I think that the retracts would work, specially if the plane comes at the lower end of the allowable weight for the gear. My intent is to build the plane as a tail dragger in part to save some weight on the landing gear but also in order to give myself more room under the nose/ over the wing to fit the ESC and battery. The plane will be electric. That is why I thought the E-flites would work; they allow me to tap into the battery that I already have and skip the additional servo.
I would like to use the plane as a parkflyer/practice plane so I will also be looking for good performance. If I think the gear will add too much weight, I might go for a simply fixed gear or even a belly lander. I am not a bad pilot, but I would not consider myself a great pilot either, but for the most parts my landings are pretty smooth so I think I could make the retractable gear work. Actually, the only 10 I ever received in competition (flying sportsman right now) was for one of my landings at the last contest.
Thanks for the advice,
Teo
#87

My Feedback: (1)
Thanks, Don.
As you know from my call today, the box finally arrived today, so I am off and running.. well, perhaps crawling, but one must learn to crawl before.... ok..ok.
Ok.. no spar needed. After looking the forms over, I can see what you mean.
I asked a question in another forum about landing gear. I want to set it up as a tail dragger to minimize the linkage to the front (steerable nose gear) and need some suggestions about main gear. I have no idea what to do with that other than it has to be light.
I am looking at the motor and ESC. I also bought a pair of battery packs from Radical RC. They are 3S 1500 mah LiPo 30C packs. They weigh 4.2 ounces. The motor I am looking at is the Hacker A20-20L 1022 kv which weighs in at 3.9 ounces with the ESC.
I am using the Spektrum AR500 receiver (7 grams) with, most likely, two Hitec HS55's (8 grams each) for the ailerons and one each 65HB's (11.2 grams each) for the elevator and rudder.
This totals 12.52 ounces for the motor, esc, receiver, servos, and battery pack.
CGr
As you know from my call today, the box finally arrived today, so I am off and running.. well, perhaps crawling, but one must learn to crawl before.... ok..ok.
Ok.. no spar needed. After looking the forms over, I can see what you mean. I asked a question in another forum about landing gear. I want to set it up as a tail dragger to minimize the linkage to the front (steerable nose gear) and need some suggestions about main gear. I have no idea what to do with that other than it has to be light.
I am looking at the motor and ESC. I also bought a pair of battery packs from Radical RC. They are 3S 1500 mah LiPo 30C packs. They weigh 4.2 ounces. The motor I am looking at is the Hacker A20-20L 1022 kv which weighs in at 3.9 ounces with the ESC.
I am using the Spektrum AR500 receiver (7 grams) with, most likely, two Hitec HS55's (8 grams each) for the ailerons and one each 65HB's (11.2 grams each) for the elevator and rudder.
This totals 12.52 ounces for the motor, esc, receiver, servos, and battery pack.
CGr
#88
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From: Eureka Springs,
AR
Glad USPS found it!
I would go with a light formed landing gear, either aluminum or composite, located under the fuse just in front of the wing, for a tail dragger. Just like on Extra's, etc. I much prefer that to wing mounted gear, but personal preference prevails, so no flames
Just need to beef up the area where the gear is mounted. much easier than wing mounting, unless your looking at retracts.
Looks like yours should be right around 1.5 pounds by my calculations, give or take a bit.
BTW, found something I missed on the plans on the first batch of Curares that went out. Two lite ply anhedral braces are included for the stab, and the stab pieces are slotted for them, which makes that easy to do, but I called then dihedral braces, and didn't memtion that the stab has anhedral, not dihedral. Next batch of plans will show that, but I figure anyone going with the Curare already knows it.
Don
I would go with a light formed landing gear, either aluminum or composite, located under the fuse just in front of the wing, for a tail dragger. Just like on Extra's, etc. I much prefer that to wing mounted gear, but personal preference prevails, so no flames
Just need to beef up the area where the gear is mounted. much easier than wing mounting, unless your looking at retracts.Looks like yours should be right around 1.5 pounds by my calculations, give or take a bit.
BTW, found something I missed on the plans on the first batch of Curares that went out. Two lite ply anhedral braces are included for the stab, and the stab pieces are slotted for them, which makes that easy to do, but I called then dihedral braces, and didn't memtion that the stab has anhedral, not dihedral. Next batch of plans will show that, but I figure anyone going with the Curare already knows it.
Don
ORIGINAL: CGRetired
Thanks, Don.
As you know from my call today, the box finally arrived today, so I am off and running.. well, perhaps crawling, but one must learn to crawl before.... ok..ok.
Ok.. no spar needed. After looking the forms over, I can see what you mean.
I asked a question in another forum about landing gear. I want to set it up as a tail dragger to minimize the linkage to the front (steerable nose gear) and need some suggestions about main gear. I have no idea what to do with that other than it has to be light.
I am looking at the motor and ESC. I also bought a pair of battery packs from Radical RC. They are 3S 1500 mah LiPo 30C packs. They weigh 4.2 ounces. The motor I am looking at is the Hacker A20-20L 1022 kv which weighs in at 3.9 ounces with the ESC.
I am using the Spektrum AR500 receiver (7 grams) with, most likely, two Hitec HS55's (8 grams each) for the ailerons and one each 65HB's (11.2 grams each) for the elevator and rudder.
This totals 12.52 ounces for the motor, esc, receiver, servos, and battery pack.
CGr
Thanks, Don.
As you know from my call today, the box finally arrived today, so I am off and running.. well, perhaps crawling, but one must learn to crawl before.... ok..ok.
Ok.. no spar needed. After looking the forms over, I can see what you mean. I asked a question in another forum about landing gear. I want to set it up as a tail dragger to minimize the linkage to the front (steerable nose gear) and need some suggestions about main gear. I have no idea what to do with that other than it has to be light.
I am looking at the motor and ESC. I also bought a pair of battery packs from Radical RC. They are 3S 1500 mah LiPo 30C packs. They weigh 4.2 ounces. The motor I am looking at is the Hacker A20-20L 1022 kv which weighs in at 3.9 ounces with the ESC.
I am using the Spektrum AR500 receiver (7 grams) with, most likely, two Hitec HS55's (8 grams each) for the ailerons and one each 65HB's (11.2 grams each) for the elevator and rudder.
This totals 12.52 ounces for the motor, esc, receiver, servos, and battery pack.
CGr
#89

My Feedback: (1)
Thanks for the info, Don. I'll take a look at composite landing gear then. Foam wheels, and light weight tail wheel rig. I usually use free-floating rear wheel to save on hardware - weight, and just steer with the rudder when on the ground as I usally do.
Thanks again.
CGr.
Thanks again.
CGr.
#90

My Feedback: (1)
I'm looking for carbon composite main gear that looks like the drawing below. Does anyone know where I can find those? Keeping in mind that this is for the Little Trouble Maker (Eureka Aircraft) and the overall weight of the plane is right around 20 ounces +/- two or three.
The width is probably to be around 12 inches or so with the height around 5 inches or so. (both guestimates.. based on what I imagine it should be, but are in no way specific).
Any ideas where I can find a one-piece carbon composite main gear like that?
CGr.
The width is probably to be around 12 inches or so with the height around 5 inches or so. (both guestimates.. based on what I imagine it should be, but are in no way specific).
Any ideas where I can find a one-piece carbon composite main gear like that?
CGr.
#91
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
ORIGINAL: CGRetired
I'm looking for carbon composite main gear that looks like the drawing below. Does anyone know where I can find those? Keeping in mind that this is for the Little Trouble Maker (Eureka Aircraft) and the overall weight of the plane is right around 20 ounces +/- two or three.
The width is probably to be around 12 inches or so with the height around 5 inches or so. (both guestimates.. based on what I imagine it should be, but are in no way specific).
Any ideas where I can find a one-piece carbon composite main gear like that?
CGr.
I'm looking for carbon composite main gear that looks like the drawing below. Does anyone know where I can find those? Keeping in mind that this is for the Little Trouble Maker (Eureka Aircraft) and the overall weight of the plane is right around 20 ounces +/- two or three.
The width is probably to be around 12 inches or so with the height around 5 inches or so. (both guestimates.. based on what I imagine it should be, but are in no way specific).
Any ideas where I can find a one-piece carbon composite main gear like that?
CGr.
I'll see if I can find you some contact info- give me a few and I'll pm you.
Brian
edit:
CGRetired: I have pm'd you...
#92
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From: Wasilla, AK,
Hi All, I just received my Baby Banshee. Thanks to Don for bringing these kits to us. My emphasis is flying these on a lightweight electric system designed to pull the plane smoothly through all the old and new patterns with grace and style. I am flying Bob Aberle's Park Pattern Flyer at an all up weight of onlly 12 oz using a Thundrpower 850 mah pack which weighs a little over 2 oz. To me the success and enjoyment of these little planes is being able to do this at such a reduced weight. It also is way fun to actually build something and enjoy the modeling like I used too.
I will have to say the little Park Pattern plane still will not always do the FAI inverted 2 1/4 reverse spins like I want but that could have something to do with my turning 70 today. Also it was only 10 here yesterday. Tough on the brain for flying.
Now landing gear. Fancy Foam Models has just come out with a 1/2 oz carbon blade set up which is sandwiched between two 1/4 light-ply pieces which will sit right in front of the bulkhead at the wing leading edge. Also the pre-cut pieces are the same width as the Banshee fuse. The gear is called Mono-plane landing gear kit. These are going on all of my baby pattern planes because you can adapt it to the fuse so easily and not add any structure to the wing which means more weight.
Another weight saving idea is to use Coveright "Microlite" film.
I will have to say the little Park Pattern plane still will not always do the FAI inverted 2 1/4 reverse spins like I want but that could have something to do with my turning 70 today. Also it was only 10 here yesterday. Tough on the brain for flying.
Now landing gear. Fancy Foam Models has just come out with a 1/2 oz carbon blade set up which is sandwiched between two 1/4 light-ply pieces which will sit right in front of the bulkhead at the wing leading edge. Also the pre-cut pieces are the same width as the Banshee fuse. The gear is called Mono-plane landing gear kit. These are going on all of my baby pattern planes because you can adapt it to the fuse so easily and not add any structure to the wing which means more weight.
Another weight saving idea is to use Coveright "Microlite" film.
#93
ORIGINAL: CGRetired
I'm looking for carbon composite main gear that looks like the drawing below. Does anyone know where I can find those? Keeping in mind that this is for the Little Trouble Maker (Eureka Aircraft) and the overall weight of the plane is right around 20 ounces +/- two or three.
The width is probably to be around 12 inches or so with the height around 5 inches or so. (both guestimates.. based on what I imagine it should be, but are in no way specific).
Any ideas where I can find a one-piece carbon composite main gear like that?
CGr.
I'm looking for carbon composite main gear that looks like the drawing below. Does anyone know where I can find those? Keeping in mind that this is for the Little Trouble Maker (Eureka Aircraft) and the overall weight of the plane is right around 20 ounces +/- two or three.
The width is probably to be around 12 inches or so with the height around 5 inches or so. (both guestimates.. based on what I imagine it should be, but are in no way specific).
Any ideas where I can find a one-piece carbon composite main gear like that?
CGr.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...t=&LiPoConfig=
#95

Hello all,
The stork delivered the kit today. It came through without any damage and it was very nicely packaged. The plane is a little smaller than I imagined; I guess that I had not taken into consideration that the wing cord would be so narrow. I took a quick look at the plans and it is going to be a cute one once it is done. For those of you who are familiar with the GSW Formosa, the plane in very similar in size. The baby Curare is probably a little longer in both respects, but because of the narrower cord of the wing, the area seems to be about the same.
I went to the hobby shop today to take a look at the E-flite electric retracts and they are definitely too big for this bird. I could use a smaller mechanical set, but given the size of the wing I am a little concerned about weight. I will probably go with a fixed gear version. For power, I think that an E-Flite Park 480 would work well on a 3S 2100 mah battery. I will probably modify the fuselage slightly so that I can mount the motor to directly to the nose. This would probably eliminate most of the firewall hopefully saving me some weight. All in all, a very nice little kit. Once I start working on it, I will do a build thread.
In the mean time, should I use Epoxy, Polyurethane or wood glue to skin the wings? I have done Expoxy in the past and it worked, you just have to make sure it is thinned and spread properly. I have heard of people using Polyurethane glues as well. Is Shorgum similar to carpenters glue?
Thanks,
Teo
The stork delivered the kit today. It came through without any damage and it was very nicely packaged. The plane is a little smaller than I imagined; I guess that I had not taken into consideration that the wing cord would be so narrow. I took a quick look at the plans and it is going to be a cute one once it is done. For those of you who are familiar with the GSW Formosa, the plane in very similar in size. The baby Curare is probably a little longer in both respects, but because of the narrower cord of the wing, the area seems to be about the same.
I went to the hobby shop today to take a look at the E-flite electric retracts and they are definitely too big for this bird. I could use a smaller mechanical set, but given the size of the wing I am a little concerned about weight. I will probably go with a fixed gear version. For power, I think that an E-Flite Park 480 would work well on a 3S 2100 mah battery. I will probably modify the fuselage slightly so that I can mount the motor to directly to the nose. This would probably eliminate most of the firewall hopefully saving me some weight. All in all, a very nice little kit. Once I start working on it, I will do a build thread.
In the mean time, should I use Epoxy, Polyurethane or wood glue to skin the wings? I have done Expoxy in the past and it worked, you just have to make sure it is thinned and spread properly. I have heard of people using Polyurethane glues as well. Is Shorgum similar to carpenters glue?
Thanks,
Teo
#97

My Feedback: (3)
ORIGINAL: viva_peru
Hello all,
The stork delivered the kit today. It came through without any damage and it was very nicely packaged. The plane is a little smaller than I imagined; I guess that I had not taken into consideration that the wing cord would be so narrow. I took a quick look at the plans and it is going to be a cute one once it is done. For those of you who are familiar with the GSW Formosa, the plane in very similar in size. The baby Curare is probably a little longer in both respects, but because of the narrower cord of the wing, the area seems to be about the same.
I went to the hobby shop today to take a look at the E-flite electric retracts and they are definitely too big for this bird.
Glad you finally saw that Teo. Those retracts are really for 25 size models.
I could use a smaller mechanical set, but given the size of the wing I am a little concerned about weight.
It's a real pleasure installing 10 size mechanicals - especially if it hasn't been done before. Weight wouldn't be a problem though.
I will probably go with a fixed gear version.
You could but why bother. If you want to try it, build the rails into the wing or a plate in the fuse. Then you can just omit the hanging weight when you actually fly.
For power, I think that an E-Flite Park 480 would work well on a 3S 2100 mah battery.
Teo, I recommend you take advice from people who have done this several times before - like Andy a few posts above. Park motors are not of suitable KV. You'd also be better served with an inrunner if you are mounting to the nose ring. You can use an outrunner too though - just the proper one. Once you install the motor, the firewall becomes but a structural frame - you bore it out before you glue it in permanently. You might find the build a little easier with an outrunner. 3s 2100 is also a tad on the heavy side - 1500 to 1800 would be best.
I will probably modify the fuselage slightly so that I can mount the motor to directly to the nose. This would probably eliminate most of the firewall hopefully saving me some weight. All in all, a very nice little kit. Once I start working on it, I will do a build thread.
In the mean time, should I use Epoxy, Polyurethane or wood glue to skin the wings? I have done Expoxy in the past and it worked, you just have to make sure it is thinned and spread properly. I have heard of people using Polyurethane glues as well. Is Shorgum similar to carpenters glue?
Carpenters glue is wood glue. Sorghum is a contact cement - requires a little skill and practice - wouldn't recommend it if first foam wing. Don't use regular 5 or 30 min epoxy. Use laminating epoxy. You may need 1/2 oz of unthinned lam epoxy for the entire wing.
Thanks,
Teo
Hello all,
The stork delivered the kit today. It came through without any damage and it was very nicely packaged. The plane is a little smaller than I imagined; I guess that I had not taken into consideration that the wing cord would be so narrow. I took a quick look at the plans and it is going to be a cute one once it is done. For those of you who are familiar with the GSW Formosa, the plane in very similar in size. The baby Curare is probably a little longer in both respects, but because of the narrower cord of the wing, the area seems to be about the same.
I went to the hobby shop today to take a look at the E-flite electric retracts and they are definitely too big for this bird.
Glad you finally saw that Teo. Those retracts are really for 25 size models.
I could use a smaller mechanical set, but given the size of the wing I am a little concerned about weight.
It's a real pleasure installing 10 size mechanicals - especially if it hasn't been done before. Weight wouldn't be a problem though.
I will probably go with a fixed gear version.
You could but why bother. If you want to try it, build the rails into the wing or a plate in the fuse. Then you can just omit the hanging weight when you actually fly.

For power, I think that an E-Flite Park 480 would work well on a 3S 2100 mah battery.
Teo, I recommend you take advice from people who have done this several times before - like Andy a few posts above. Park motors are not of suitable KV. You'd also be better served with an inrunner if you are mounting to the nose ring. You can use an outrunner too though - just the proper one. Once you install the motor, the firewall becomes but a structural frame - you bore it out before you glue it in permanently. You might find the build a little easier with an outrunner. 3s 2100 is also a tad on the heavy side - 1500 to 1800 would be best.
I will probably modify the fuselage slightly so that I can mount the motor to directly to the nose. This would probably eliminate most of the firewall hopefully saving me some weight. All in all, a very nice little kit. Once I start working on it, I will do a build thread.
In the mean time, should I use Epoxy, Polyurethane or wood glue to skin the wings? I have done Expoxy in the past and it worked, you just have to make sure it is thinned and spread properly. I have heard of people using Polyurethane glues as well. Is Shorgum similar to carpenters glue?
Carpenters glue is wood glue. Sorghum is a contact cement - requires a little skill and practice - wouldn't recommend it if first foam wing. Don't use regular 5 or 30 min epoxy. Use laminating epoxy. You may need 1/2 oz of unthinned lam epoxy for the entire wing.
Thanks,
Teo
#98

My Feedback: (3)
ORIGINAL: crankpin
Baby Kit's ? What's next ? Is this a new area for classic's ? Anyone have any picture's of the finished model's ?
Crank
Baby Kit's ? What's next ? Is this a new area for classic's ? Anyone have any picture's of the finished model's ?
Crank

Jokes aside Crank, we should be glad that a producer on this continent is bringing them to market - a rare find nowadays. You may have heard - Webra just folded.
David.
#99
ORIGINAL: viva_peru
Hello all,
. For power, I think that an E-Flite Park 480 would work well on a 3S 2100 mah battery.
In the mean time, should I use Epoxy, Polyurethane or wood glue to skin the wings? I have done Expoxy in the past and it worked, you just have to make sure it is thinned and spread properly. I have heard of people using Polyurethane glues as well. Is Shorgum similar to carpenters glue?
Thanks,
Teo
Hello all,
. For power, I think that an E-Flite Park 480 would work well on a 3S 2100 mah battery.
In the mean time, should I use Epoxy, Polyurethane or wood glue to skin the wings? I have done Expoxy in the past and it worked, you just have to make sure it is thinned and spread properly. I have heard of people using Polyurethane glues as well. Is Shorgum similar to carpenters glue?
Thanks,
Teo
Gorila Glue is the best combination I have experienced to skin the wings, beware to use very little glue as it will expand, use an old credit card to spread the glue and leave a very thin ammount.
#100

My Feedback: (15)
David. You are right, and it could also be a starting gate for more spa or cpa, bpa builder's. Back to warm and fuzzy stuff, Christmas. I see some envelope's, usually gift certificate's from Horizon or Central, gotta be cool
I'm the old man now. Merry Christmas.
Crank
I'm the old man now. Merry Christmas.Crank


