Dave,

I would love to see some...

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Greg

Join the stab with epoxy and cloth. Test fit to fuse and continue to sand.

Looking Good!!

Have Fun...

Chuck

Working on the left wing, CA glue a 1/4" x 1/4" stick down even with the back of the Wing Left Leading sheet. Hold in hand with fingers and place a rib starting with Rib 1 and CA glue each, one at a time while lining up with the guide marks on the sheet and glue only the back that touches the 1/4" stick.

Weight down the wing and CA glue a 1/8" x 1/4" stick down the trailing edge of the ribs. Use something for a right angle to position each rib as you glue.

CA glue the wheel block in place fitted to the bottom of the ribs. Titebond glue W4C in position. Then CA glue a 1/4"x1" stick to the trailing edge. Make sure it is flat to the top tip of each rib.

Glue a 1/4"x1/4" stick down the back of the top Wing Left Leading sheet. Start on one end and work the stick into the ribs. Work in a little in each until you get it into position. Only glue the back end where the stick touches the rib.

Pick the wing up and finger clamp each leading edge sheeting to the rib, one at a time, while adding CA glue. Weight the wing down...

Sand the leading edge ribs flat with the sheeting. Titebond glue the 1" triangle stick to the leading edge.

well lets see if works, it's fiberglass body and tri cycle landing gear a three bladed prop on a OS
91 2 stroke and a tune pipe. it flys like its on rails and it dose'nt need any commands from ride side up or upside down.......and the wings are sheeted foam

That's a good looking plane HannaDav! Hope to see some builders turn this kit into a work of art!

The Pan is made of 1/64" ply. Assemble the Pan by attaching P2, P3, P4, and P6 with CA glue.

Attach the Pan frame to the fuse to establish the shape. Put some wax paper down to prevent attaching to the fuse. CA glue a 1/4" sq stick between P4 and P5 to set the angle of P5. CA glue P7 and P8 even to the Pan and P4. There is an angle side to P7 and P8 that should fit against P4.

CA glue in some 1" triangle stick. Use P1 to get the center location. Use a clamp to get the angle and only glue where the sticks cross and where they touch P2.

P1 is a departure from the original nose opening look because of ease and engine selection. However, if you want to build-up the more triangler look nose, move the triangle sticks back as for as the engine will allow and fit P1 at this location. Add balsa to shape the nose for the ply wrap.

CA tack glue P1 to the 1" triangle front. Note where P1 centers the triangle stick. Use wax paper if you think you will glue it to the fuse (don't). You can take the Pan off the fuse. Cut a 1/4"x1" stick to fit between P1, P2, P and triangle stick.

Begin sanding the nose shape. Sand off the tips where you glued P7 and P8. Glue in the nose retrack windows. The picture is shown to let you know where this is going and the shaping required to wrap the ply.

Center the ply at P4 and P5, clamp and CA glue. Take the clamps off and lay on a flat surface to glue the 1/4" stick.

On the flat surface, start at the rear P5 and clamp one side section then CA glue. Don't glue to the tip, stop where you see the last clamp at the nose. Do the same thing on the other side. Insert the retrack windows with a little Titebond glue against P6. Fold the ply (no glue) over the nose and tape. Apply Titebond glue from the opposite side to P6, ply, and windows where they touch.

With a knife, shape the Nose Gear window down to the edge of P2. This will help to bend the thin ply toward the nose.Fold the thin ply to fit and mark intersections. Use a straight edge and draw a line on each sheet. Cut to shape.

Test fit then on a flat wax covered surface, roll each side on the formers and CA glue. Add some Titebond glue over the nose joint.

I may put a Saito 82 up front, or any other engine would be matched at this time. Use some 1/16" sheet to size the header placement. Position the engine and mark it's location. Glue the balsa sheet frame to the ply for support. Add a stick of 1/4" down each side for support.

Use the supplied dowels with clamps. CA glue between the ply and the nose formers. Clamp the dowels between the groves to shape the nose.

Add a 1/4" stick across the nose and sand to shape the nose tip and bottom around the Nose Gear windows only.

The Pan template can be made to fit any engine and the prior steps were lose and undecided. To be more specific, the next few pictures will detail the actual use of the Saito 82 engine.

Prepare to join the wing, test fit wing and fuse, and attach wing pan fuse mount.

Well this brings to a close the CAM Aurora kit build because of my time constraints. I may equip the plane in the spring and complete the build. I have made a kit available at HTTP://CHARLOTTEAIRCRAFTMODELING.COM .

The plane's dimensions came from David's drawing in this forum and he did a great job on them. I added my build style to the design to make the build easy. Looks like you could build the plane in a few weekends with the balsa and ply templates provided.