Taking Orders For Hanno Piston/Liner Sets
#301
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Will,
what do you recommend for breaking in a Hanno special (MKI)?
It will be installed into an Aurora 60, plane is almost ready for covering now. I do have the original rear exhaust offset MK header which is 170mm long, and the red OS pipe. I would like to use a 12x10 prop, will it rev more than 11.000rpm? Keep the header length as it is? I understand to start with the stock header length as the manual tells, but would like to hear your comment. Thank you.
And, yes, same prop for breaking in as inteded for flight later? This will be an almost philosophical question, I guess...
Dominik
what do you recommend for breaking in a Hanno special (MKI)?
It will be installed into an Aurora 60, plane is almost ready for covering now. I do have the original rear exhaust offset MK header which is 170mm long, and the red OS pipe. I would like to use a 12x10 prop, will it rev more than 11.000rpm? Keep the header length as it is? I understand to start with the stock header length as the manual tells, but would like to hear your comment. Thank you.
And, yes, same prop for breaking in as inteded for flight later? This will be an almost philosophical question, I guess...
Dominik
#302

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Hi Dominik,
I'm assuming that you are looking for 'pipe lengths' as well as break-in recommendations. I will have to do some research to give you an ideal pipe length for that prop which is probably the smallest 'load' (diameter x pitch) that you would want to run on the Hanno. That is the prop size I use for break-in. To properly break-in an ABC type engine you need to get the engine running at 'normal' operating temperature which means avoiding excessively rich running. Start the engine and set the needle for a slightly rich maximum rpm setting. I run the engine about 15 minutes on the ground. First for 30 seconds, then 1 minute, etc. increasing by 30 seconds until you're running for 3 minutes. Allow the engine to cool between runs. I then fly a few (2-5) 'break-in' flights which consist of mostly full throttle horizontal flying. Periodically during these flights I will pull to vertical and any sagging (rpm falls off) results in the throttle being reduced and level flight restored. When the engine will pull vertically without sagging you can fly any maneuvers you wish. I like to run 15% nitro and keep the engine on the rich side.
Since you will be running the engine in an Aurora, I believe (it has been a while since I've flown an Aurora) that you are restricted in available pipe length. The original Aurora was flown with a short stroke YS and an 11x9 prop. I'm running an APC 13x9 prop with a pipe length of 17.5" from glo-plug to the baffle of an Hatori 650 pipe for my current Hanno set-up. What is the maximum pipe length (plug to baffle) that you can have and still put the Aurora belly pan on? I know many others ran the Hanno in the MK Aurora; so it can be done!
I hope this helps,
-Will
You will love this
I'm assuming that you are looking for 'pipe lengths' as well as break-in recommendations. I will have to do some research to give you an ideal pipe length for that prop which is probably the smallest 'load' (diameter x pitch) that you would want to run on the Hanno. That is the prop size I use for break-in. To properly break-in an ABC type engine you need to get the engine running at 'normal' operating temperature which means avoiding excessively rich running. Start the engine and set the needle for a slightly rich maximum rpm setting. I run the engine about 15 minutes on the ground. First for 30 seconds, then 1 minute, etc. increasing by 30 seconds until you're running for 3 minutes. Allow the engine to cool between runs. I then fly a few (2-5) 'break-in' flights which consist of mostly full throttle horizontal flying. Periodically during these flights I will pull to vertical and any sagging (rpm falls off) results in the throttle being reduced and level flight restored. When the engine will pull vertically without sagging you can fly any maneuvers you wish. I like to run 15% nitro and keep the engine on the rich side.
Since you will be running the engine in an Aurora, I believe (it has been a while since I've flown an Aurora) that you are restricted in available pipe length. The original Aurora was flown with a short stroke YS and an 11x9 prop. I'm running an APC 13x9 prop with a pipe length of 17.5" from glo-plug to the baffle of an Hatori 650 pipe for my current Hanno set-up. What is the maximum pipe length (plug to baffle) that you can have and still put the Aurora belly pan on? I know many others ran the Hanno in the MK Aurora; so it can be done!
I hope this helps,
-Will
You will love this
#303
Senior Member
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The tuned pipe just fits into the Aurora with uncut header. Distance from glow plug to first weld seam of the T-4010 pipe (I think Hatori´s #650 has shorter distance to baffle?) is a full 20" (510mm). Distance from pipe intake to first baffle is 12".
As per OS´s recommendation, this out-of-the-box setup would be starting point for 9.500rpm goal and a 12x11,5 prop.
So, I would expect to shorten the header pipe some 1-2" to result in approx 10.500rpm on ground.
Next questions for your advice:
- Pre-heat the engine before first fire-up by a powerful hairdryer? Is this a myth or worth doing it?
- Castor oil for first break-in period or same fuel as later for flight (synthetic oil)? This may be even more a question of beleive.
I made good experience by burning first half hour pure castor/methanol mix and then immediatly change for another 15min to my std. fuel (15% synthetic oil, 8% nitro) to get all castor residue out of the engine.
Some pics attached, thank you for your input.
Dominik
As per OS´s recommendation, this out-of-the-box setup would be starting point for 9.500rpm goal and a 12x11,5 prop.
So, I would expect to shorten the header pipe some 1-2" to result in approx 10.500rpm on ground.
Next questions for your advice:
- Pre-heat the engine before first fire-up by a powerful hairdryer? Is this a myth or worth doing it?
- Castor oil for first break-in period or same fuel as later for flight (synthetic oil)? This may be even more a question of beleive.
I made good experience by burning first half hour pure castor/methanol mix and then immediatly change for another 15min to my std. fuel (15% synthetic oil, 8% nitro) to get all castor residue out of the engine.
Some pics attached, thank you for your input.
Dominik
#304

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From: Euharlee,
GA
I'm running mine 19.7" from the glow plug to the first baffle..That's turning 10.3k static with a Bolly EQ-62 CF pipe, Powermaster YS 20/20 fuel and an APC 12x12 prop...
Chuck
P.S. Where did you get that belly pan mount thingy?? I like that allot!!
Chuck
P.S. Where did you get that belly pan mount thingy?? I like that allot!!
#305
Senior Member
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Thank you Chuck.
This belly pan fixing device was included in my Aurora kit. It was in its own small plastic bag and it also did have a small piece of the plans, where it was shown instead of the original thing made from bent sheet metal. The down part of it is adjustable, very cool. Like those MK details.
This belly pan fixing device was included in my Aurora kit. It was in its own small plastic bag and it also did have a small piece of the plans, where it was shown instead of the original thing made from bent sheet metal. The down part of it is adjustable, very cool. Like those MK details.
#306

Speedpanzer, that Hanno is in too new of a condition to put in a plane
, Please mount it to a stand in a glass case and buy a beat up second hand unit for flying ....
, Please mount it to a stand in a glass case and buy a beat up second hand unit for flying ....
#310
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From: Montreal, QC, CANADA
Hello Flywilly,
I stopped all RC activities 15 years ago and I am now returning to it. I have kept all my equipment and amongst it is a Hanno Special in an Aurora 60 built in 1989.
I had put into all my engines some transmission oil and so far, 15 years later, all of them took some starting work but all ran with their original bearings, glow plug and so on. Even some old fuel (10% Castrol M, 10% Castrol MSSR and 10% nitro) that I had mixed then, worked very well.
Amazing !
Now for the real question :
As your last post on the subject was nearly 2 years ago, I am hopping that some new development in a possible source for that Hanno's piston and sleeve replacement. Sorry for stirring the knife in the wound, but your thread in the only reference I found so far for Hanno replacement parts.
If you decide not to answer, I would understand. I have been there !
Regards
#311
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From: Montreal, QC, CANADA
Apologies Aurora 60 and Flywilly. After reading 13 pages of posts, I got confused between the 2 of you.
I guess that this post is addressed to Aurora 60.
Thanks
#312
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From: kaneohe,
HI
ORIGINAL: RSAnowCA
Apologies Aurora 60 and Flywilly. After reading 13 pages of posts, I got confused between the 2 of you.
I guess that this post is addressed to Aurora 60.
Thanks
Apologies Aurora 60 and Flywilly. After reading 13 pages of posts, I got confused between the 2 of you.
I guess that this post is addressed to Aurora 60.
Thanks
I haven't had the chance to fly any of my planes in the last few years. Haven't seen a set myself, my set is waiting for me after I finally move to the cont. U.S., just as an incentive.
As far as Info on the P/L sets and how they perform, break in or availablity, I would say that is addressed to anyone here who has had the chance to run there new set. Haven't heard anyone on the subject. But then I haven't been on the site (RCU) as much as I would like to... gotta change that soon!!DM
#313
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From: Montreal, QC, CANADA
Thanks for the clarification Will. Now I understand why I got mixed up. I do not feel that senile after all !
Sometimes a break makes us appreciate more what we might have been taking for granted.
I have restarted flying after a 15 year break and I must say that I really enjoyed it. I don't seem to have lost much.
Hopefully it will be the same for you.
Good luck.
RSAnowCa
#314

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Hi RSAnowCA,
Hanno parts are difficult to find. However, Henry Nelson who has made all the replacement pistons/liners still has a few in his shop. Henry is 'semi' retired which means he doesn't want to take on any new projects, but still supports the many engines he has built and will provide finished piston and sleeve sets if he has them in stock (or, at least, the unfinished parts). I last spoke to Henry in April of this year and he had some finished and unfinished Hanno piston and sleeve sets. I have his contact information around somewhere if you need it.
The Hanno is a terrific engine, I've been running them since 1992 and have thousands of flights with them. Henry's piston/sleeve sets add tremendous longevity to the engine as you can easily get 1000+ flights with them.
Regards,
Will
Hanno parts are difficult to find. However, Henry Nelson who has made all the replacement pistons/liners still has a few in his shop. Henry is 'semi' retired which means he doesn't want to take on any new projects, but still supports the many engines he has built and will provide finished piston and sleeve sets if he has them in stock (or, at least, the unfinished parts). I last spoke to Henry in April of this year and he had some finished and unfinished Hanno piston and sleeve sets. I have his contact information around somewhere if you need it.
The Hanno is a terrific engine, I've been running them since 1992 and have thousands of flights with them. Henry's piston/sleeve sets add tremendous longevity to the engine as you can easily get 1000+ flights with them.
Regards,
Will
#316
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From: Montreal, QC, CANADA
Hi Will,
I would very much like to order a spare set as this Hannohas over 1300 flights. It is stillturning a 13x9 APC and has plenty of climb, but spare parts for this engine never hurt.
I had 2 identical Hanno's but sold one of them16 or 17 years ago. Why ???????????
They both had the red Hatori style pipes, (not the same one thatyou can see on Ebay, with several weld rings at the back) so I think that they were Hanno 1's.
Could you let me know who to contact to get some info ?
Thanks,
RSAnowCA
#317
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From: Montreal, QC, CANADA
Yes, somewhere in the thousands of photos that I havehad stacked up in a cupboard for decades.
I will try to find them. If I cannot, I willtake new ones once the weather warms a bit. (-9°c max today)
#318

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ORIGINAL: RSAnowCA
I had 2 identical Hanno's but sold one of them 16 or 17 years ago. Why ???????????
They both had the red Hatori style pipes, (not the same one that you can see on Ebay, with several weld rings at the back) so I think that they were Hanno 1's.
I had 2 identical Hanno's but sold one of them 16 or 17 years ago. Why ???????????
They both had the red Hatori style pipes, (not the same one that you can see on Ebay, with several weld rings at the back) so I think that they were Hanno 1's.
We should start a Quebec Hanno club! [8D]
BTW, I think the smooth Hatori's are older designs. The new ones are TIG welded on the outside during the build. True of 25, 45 and 60 size pipes. I have some of both styles.
David
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From: Sun City,
AZ
Nice to see this thread come back to life. I have heard that Nelson has supplied liners in the past, not sure he is doing it currently. If anyone knows a source for a liner or two put me on the list (I could use four of them)...right behind RSAnowCA.
#322
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From: Montreal, QC, CANADA
Thanks very much David. Which club do you go to ?
I just joined RCU a couple of days ago.
Which club do you got to ?
RSAnowCA
#323

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Hi guys,
You can contact Henry Nelson at:
Email: [email protected]
phone: (724)538-5282
Henry lives in Pennsylvania; if you are calling, try to call during regular business hours.
You can contact Henry Nelson at:
Email: [email protected]
phone: (724)538-5282
Henry lives in Pennsylvania; if you are calling, try to call during regular business hours.
#325

The pump on my Hanno's biting the dust now.
I pulled it apart a smeared a bit of silicone over the cracks in the diaphram and it still runs fine with less fuel drippingout the tell-tale but it's on borrowed time [
]
Can't blame it though, nearly 20 years for a pump diapham in ANYTHING isn't a bad run...
I pulled it apart a smeared a bit of silicone over the cracks in the diaphram and it still runs fine with less fuel drippingout the tell-tale but it's on borrowed time [
]Can't blame it though, nearly 20 years for a pump diapham in ANYTHING isn't a bad run...


