Next pictures of the building

Top of the fuse mounted and engineroom looks already like that of a Taurus.
The sides of this compartment are not finished yet. There still has to be added 5 mm balsa on both sides.

Cees

Like this!

Cees

Gents, some progress.

TE of the fin.
To get the straight fuselage I always mount the fin, so there isn’t an angle between the front and the tail.

First the holes for the threated hangings. The angle I use to get the tread straight between fin and rudder, see picture 1

Gluing the TE in the fuse parallel with the outside of the fuselage sides near the wing.

Later the stab is mounted square on the fin and at last the wing parallel with the stab.

To get the fins parallel, the bottom of the fuselage is still open (like a D tube in the wing)

Last picture as it is this moment.


Cees

Tail feathers woodwork.

Yes, that looks like a Taurus tail, also the old one.

Fairings of the fin will be made after mounting the planes on the fuselage..

First thing to do is covering the stab, then mounting elevators on the stab with the threated hangings.
Then stab on the fuse with maybe also the pushrod for the elevators and latest the fin and the rudder.

It looks like the "Revive of the Phoenix"

Cees

Some work on the stab.
After covering the stab with silk and dope I did paint is with primer.
In the stab the holes are drilled for the threated hangings. Not yet in the elevators.
The elevators are mounted on the lever already.
Next step is mounting the hangings of the elevators on the stab and then stab on the fuselage.

Yes this is also a classic pattern plane but, no many people already did see this plane I think.

Are you wondering? Follow the thread.

Cees

Very nice work, Cees!

Cees, I found this pictures on a Swedish old timer flying site.
Hope you like them, the engine is an OS 48 4 stroke

I like your building thread, keep up the good work.

WEDJ.
I am glad you still like your thread.

I have chosen to show the milestones and less the “how do” actions.
I am the only one who built this Taurus, so it has not be a real built thread.
Every choice I make depends on what I see on the crate picture. An example

The threaded hangings of the elevators.
The detail picture is the left elevator half of the crate picture. The holes in the stab, 8 holes in the elevator 7 location is also unique.
Below my stab, with paint I also colored the black (grey) and red.

Enjoy,

Martenson, nice pictures, does this Taurus still exist? so Yes it is one of the two .
My Taurus in the past also was a period red white and blue (Dutch flag!). See picture.
They did rebuild the engine room to fit the four stroke, but it is an oldy one I think, looking the way the wings are mounted original.


Cees

Yes, Martenson's photo looks like an original one, also because the "Taurus" looks like TF decal supplied in the kits. maybe the paint was not "hot fuel proof" because it is blistered in places.

It lived a few weeks ago, I saw some newly taken video of it but can't find it.
I will chack and see what I can find.
Maybe I can buy it

I'll get back if I find anything.

Take care.

Cees,
Thanks for getting back to me. I now understand what you are doing. I have the Top Flite kit and you are reconstructing the original Kazmirski model, the prototype, and they are different. The wood for my kit has been in the box since 1963. Should I be concerned about whether or not the wood will bond together when I glue? Is there anything that the composition of the wood suffers or loses because of its age, such as loss of moisture? I also have an extra wing kit for my Taurus so I am going to build one with monokote covering and the other with silkspan and paint. Kenn.

Hello Kenn,

About my project you are right, I try to get back a very important plane. nearly forgotten forever.
My project is finished when we can see a picture of my plane in the same position as the Taurus in the crate. And most of us agree, "They are (nearly) exact the same!"
I will try to eliminate most differences and at last fly the plane.

Your question about building your kit from 1963 will be read by many others.
I do not know if building of such an old kit will give troubles. Can anybody give us an answer? Maybe WEDJ?

Isn't it possible to dublicate the parts, use new balsa and leave the kit original?
I built my planes nearly without any electrical tools, scratch, and always use new material.
In the Netherlands distances are little, I can drive to three shops within 30 miles to buy me material!

The preformed wood from the wingkit maybe you can use so you do not have to bent the wing sheeting.
I must say that just this sheeting of the wing has to be of good quality because of handling and damages.
A wing nose repair you can see in the thread of WEDJ: Pass Time Perigee Build Thread.

Good luck Kenn and keep us informed, I hope someone gives the answer about using material from 1963?
Covering I always use silk and dope, silk from a normal hobby shop were the also sell a lot painting materials, maybe for silk painting?

Cees

Kenn,

There is no inherent loss of use-ability (is that a word?) due to the age of wood. Just look at some 100+ year old houses. What does have an effect is how it was stored for 45 years. Always dry? Low humidity? Even temperature? No little critters? These things can have a detrimental effect.

But with an original Taurus kit, personally I would agree w/ Cees to preserve it and re-cut the pieces. Of course, you could always get a Primus kit.

http://www.homeandhobbysolutions.com...%20Details.htm

Very interesting stuff, these Taurus threads...[8D]
A buddy of mine flew one quite a bit back in the mid 70's...had a ST .51 in his.
Don't want to interrupt...(if I have, I appologise )
I have built several kits from the 50's and one thing I have found is that if the balsa is very dry, you are better off not using any CA type adhesives...they like a little moisture (the proper amount ) content in the wood to work properly. (maybe do a little testing on some scraps )
Aliphatic resin type, epoxy, and such seemed to work best for me.

Hello All,
If you are interested in duplicating the molded leading edges as used in the original Taurus kit, do take a look at the technique proposed by Bob Hunt at Robin's view productions.
You can see a short synopsis in this latest issue of Model Aviation magazine in the Control-Line Stunt column.
Bob also produces molded pieces and/or will cut molds for you for any design, provided he has information to make templates.
He also sells a videotape or DVD describing how to make your own molding bucks and mold your own leading edges and fuselage pieces. This includes compound curves!

The phone number for RVP is (610) 746-0106

best regards,
Dean Pappas

Dean, thanks for the message! I will take a look.

So Kenn,
What I did tell you, your question will be answered by the readers.

In RCM & E we could read the red squared passage from Ed about the pushrods. In this case the rudder but I think the same about the elevator because it pushes the elevator to give any “up” action.
In an emergency situation a bending pushrod is end of the planes live!

For the elevator I have already make the pushrod and did show a drawing in the past.
It is easy to mount the pushrod connected with the elevator before mounting the stab on the fuselage.

Material the same as the fuse, balsa and already “doped” two times.
When somebody thinks, it looks like a little "overdone"! I must say you are right. But I like this kind of constructions and the change of vibrations is less then round or square cross sections (with a vertical mounted motor!). Vibrations gives play in the bearing of the linking with the lever of the elevator. The bigger vertical height is also to withstand G forces in this directions (loops).
When the stab is mounted I will block the elevator and measure the length variations of the pushrod near the servo position under influence of humidity and temperature.

Cees

WEDJ,
Thanks for your input. My kit has always been properly stored and inside the house. It has never had any outside exposure. There does not appear to be any little critter damage. I want to build this plane as light as possible and CA is what I had intended to use where possible. Using something like Elmer's glue or epoxy in my opinion makes the plane heavier as compared to using CA. If I elect to re-cut, it sure looks like allot of work. Still, I do not want to put this kit together, fly it and then just see it mysteriously come apart in the air because of the condition of the wood. I will have to give the matter some thought before beginning construction. Thanks to everyone for your input and I would appreciate any additional suggestions or recommendations from any of you.

Gents a little update.

This is a very old Taurus tail lookes like,

Also a snapshot in the same direction the crate picture is taken in the past, not yet the right distance.
I am sanding the parts so they look the same the best I can. That's you can see on the primer of the rudder.

The elevator pushrod is already mounted. I am working on the rudder pushrod now.
The bottomside of the fuselage is still open, it makes mounting of the pushrods easy.
The threated hangings I probably will mount after painting is finished.
Soon I can start with the wings.

Cees

Gents,

Drilling the hole in the side of the fuselage for a pushrod feed through, I use my “own method” .
Maybe interesting for you,

I clamp the fuselage between two pieces of wood and fill the space between the sides if necessary.
Do not use too much pressure, it is only to guide the bore.
Now drill the hole in the piece of wood outside the fuse but in the right direction to the servo.
My fuse is 1/8 is 3 mm thick on this place.

To drill the hole I use piano wire, the point of the bore I make myself (picture 2). Diameter 3 mm (1/8).
Pictures, the outside 1, inside 2 and result 3!

May this helps you in the dark evenings of the winter to bring an little light in the fuse, picture 4.

Ed did not use this method see picture 5, an example of Ed's fuselage now owned by Kingaltair.
Making the feedthrough this way you do not have to bend the wire of the pushrod . A point Ed did tell us to take care of that.(RCM & E, picture 6), a second advantage is, this feedthrough guides the pushrod.

Cees

Gents, something to read.

To adjust the deflection of the elevator I want to use the same method Ed did.
The max deflection up and down also was the deflection to make a looping inside and outside

In the past with the reed system Ed did fly the loops without pulsing, see again the RCM & E article.
The Taurus has an asymmetrical and thick wing so because of this reason the up deflection is less than the down deflection.
For the Standard and Top Flite Taurusses this “UP ”was about 5/16”, and “DOWN” 11/32”

To get this result in the past the elevator lever wasn’t square mounted on the elevator but in a angle.
After mounting the elevator I cannot change the angle anymore but I can mount the elevator servo on a rail. Also with the position of the servo and adjustment of the neutral position I can change the deflections.
BTW the reeds servos were linear and not adjustable I think so Ed had a lot to do, maybe this is the reason for the hatch under the lever of the elevator so he could bend the lever??

I did hear you can adjust the deflections separate Up and down in the “programmable” transmitter these days!!!!!
It’s a wonder.

Cees

Gents, new pictures.

In the past you did see the engine room, the tailfeathers.
This time some construction pictures of the control room.

As I did show you in the last post the position of the elevator servo is adjustable, so we can make inside and outside loops with full throw and without transmitter adjustments.
Why?

This is Classic Pattern Flying and I want to experience what Ed did have to do to trim his plane. Maybe not on this may, the servo’s he did use were linear, but then he has to do it another way.

When I do have the right adjustment I can recalculate the right angle of the elevator lever to draw it on the plans. Than the servo can have a fixed position in next planes.
Two pictures of the mouting plates of the elevator and rudder servo and the tray. Also the rudder I can adjust.
Last picture the mounting position in the Wester Taurus. Plenty of control room, even for the receiver. The battery gets a place beneath the tank.
After the adjustments are made it is possible to glue the adjustable plates and tray together if I want.

Cees

Gents,

To compare the total weight of my plane with the estimate weight of the original I want to know the total weight of the first reeds radio equipment Ed did use in his first Taurusses.

So, the weight of the reeds Orbit superhet receiver, 10 channels.
The servo’s, Bonner transmites. 5 of them were used : ailerons, throttle, rudder, elevator and elevator trim.
Battery 2 x 2,4 VDC and 1 x 1,2 VDC , I do not know the capacity? Who knows? 500 DKZ?

Who can give me the values of these weights?

Cees

Gents,

To duplicate the canopy I use a picture of the fuselage of Duane, in the past this picture is made by Noblechuck.

An old Top Flite canopy probably also used on the fuselage in the crate. (Maybe the same canopy?)
The result we will see in the future when comparing the pictures.
With our modern computer systems it is easy to compare the shape of the plug and the canopy on the picture, using the program "Paint".
Simple laying the plug picture on the original of Noblechuck.

I can stretch the plug picture vertical and horizontal to see what to do to get the right dimensions.
The red line in the plug picture is the top of the fuselage.

I show you both pictures separate in one display.

Cees

Gents,

Fuselage with canopy ready to compare with other pictures.

Cees

Impressive work Cees.
Looking forward to more pics.

Good luck