Redesign and reconstruction of the Oldest Taurus on Earth
#102
Cees, old wise and skillfull
I just finishing the tail on my Mach1, my first pattern build.
Sheeting foam with balsa, looks like a beginner[
]
I will do a build tread when I've got more done, with 60 hours work week I don't have to much time

I just finishing the tail on my Mach1, my first pattern build.
Sheeting foam with balsa, looks like a beginner[
]I will do a build tread when I've got more done, with 60 hours work week I don't have to much time
#103
Thread Starter

Hello Martenson,
The result is good. I never did sheet foam cores.
You do not have to make a build thread, especially when you do not have much time for that.
Enjoy your hobby and enjoy the pictures of others.
I did help you with cleaning your desk!
Cees
The result is good. I never did sheet foam cores.
You do not have to make a build thread, especially when you do not have much time for that.
Enjoy your hobby and enjoy the pictures of others.
I did help you with cleaning your desk!
Cees
#105
Senior Member
I don't have the old receiver anymore but I had this one old servo.
It's a Duramite with the amplifier, so it is actually a Transmite.
It is 86 grams.
Nice thread, you're doing fantastic work.
Paul
It's a Duramite with the amplifier, so it is actually a Transmite.
It is 86 grams.
Nice thread, you're doing fantastic work.
Paul
#106
Thread Starter

Paul,
Thanks for your input, this will do,
A receiver will be 100 grams I think, especially a (Medco!) reeds relais is heavy I think.
and a 5 cell battery about 120 gram.
Your weight of the servo is more important to know, because there were 5 of them in the plane.
Total weight of the radio equipment is about 650 gram, nearly unbelievable with that 0.45 K & B.
Thanks Cees
Thanks for your input, this will do,
A receiver will be 100 grams I think, especially a (Medco!) reeds relais is heavy I think.
and a 5 cell battery about 120 gram.
Your weight of the servo is more important to know, because there were 5 of them in the plane.
Total weight of the radio equipment is about 650 gram, nearly unbelievable with that 0.45 K & B.
Thanks Cees
#107
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From: Belfast, IRELAND
Cees,
The weight of Ed's 1962 Nats winning Taurus is usually quoted as 5.5 lbs.
A typical 10 channel reed receiver with a Medco reed bank was 3.5 - 4 ozs.
Ray
The weight of Ed's 1962 Nats winning Taurus is usually quoted as 5.5 lbs.
A typical 10 channel reed receiver with a Medco reed bank was 3.5 - 4 ozs.
Ray
#108

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From: Columbus,
OH
ORIGINAL: RFJ
...........The weight of Ed's 1962 Nats winning Taurus is usually quoted as 5.5 lbs............
...........The weight of Ed's 1962 Nats winning Taurus is usually quoted as 5.5 lbs............
Tom
#109
Thread Starter

Gents ,
Let’s calculate so in the future I can look back to this post.
1 ounce 28,3 gram
1 pound 454 gram
Receiver 10 channel 3,5 a 4 oz, 106 gram (Ray)
5 servo’s 15,2 oz, 5 x 86 =430 gram (Paul)
Batterypack 4,2 oz = 120 gram
Total 23,15 oz = 656 gram Ed’s radio
If the Nats winning Taurus from Ed was 5,5 pound = 2500 gram
than the empty plane is 4 pound 1 ounce = 1844 gram with engine tank landing gear, etc.
My radio 275 gram 9.7 ounce.(battery, receiver 5 servo’s)
The weight of my plane 2500 gram – 275 gram = 2225 gram, so 4 pound and 14,5 ounces, to get the same wingloading as the Taurus from Ed.
For me it is an easy job to keep the weight under the weight of the Nats winning Taurus (I think!!!!), but for Ed it was a great job to make such a light plane.
The Oldest Taurus on Earth maybe was even a little lighter , the plan was a few inches shorter.
Wingloading.
Wing 4,8 sqft weight 88 ounce 18,33 ounce/sqft
That’s the wing loading of a glider or not, maybe I build in a variometer.
Interesting to tell that Ed did say, only a low wing plane can be used for acrobat with a thick wing because with a shoulder mounted wing the plane will go ballooning!
The canopy.
I did make a second one, the first one was about 7 mm ( 1/3 “) too short.
I did make some pictures.
I use Perspex, 2mm thick (1/12’?) so Polymethylmethacrylaat (PMMA), no VIVAK.
Because of my leight radio I can use some cheap weigth in the CG.
No vacuum just my whole body to pres the adaptor with the sheet over the plug. Two hands, two knees and my whole body. So use a thick adaptorplate when you try!!
And not on your desk mister Martenson, on the floor!
Temp 160 degrees C, 320degrees F
The plug for about 15 minutes in the oven, the Perspex about 10 minutes, and then.
GO
See the result,
Let’s calculate so in the future I can look back to this post.
1 ounce 28,3 gram
1 pound 454 gram
Receiver 10 channel 3,5 a 4 oz, 106 gram (Ray)
5 servo’s 15,2 oz, 5 x 86 =430 gram (Paul)
Batterypack 4,2 oz = 120 gram
Total 23,15 oz = 656 gram Ed’s radio
If the Nats winning Taurus from Ed was 5,5 pound = 2500 gram
than the empty plane is 4 pound 1 ounce = 1844 gram with engine tank landing gear, etc.
My radio 275 gram 9.7 ounce.(battery, receiver 5 servo’s)
The weight of my plane 2500 gram – 275 gram = 2225 gram, so 4 pound and 14,5 ounces, to get the same wingloading as the Taurus from Ed.
For me it is an easy job to keep the weight under the weight of the Nats winning Taurus (I think!!!!), but for Ed it was a great job to make such a light plane.
The Oldest Taurus on Earth maybe was even a little lighter , the plan was a few inches shorter.
Wingloading.
Wing 4,8 sqft weight 88 ounce 18,33 ounce/sqft
That’s the wing loading of a glider or not, maybe I build in a variometer.
Interesting to tell that Ed did say, only a low wing plane can be used for acrobat with a thick wing because with a shoulder mounted wing the plane will go ballooning!
The canopy.
I did make a second one, the first one was about 7 mm ( 1/3 “) too short.
I did make some pictures.
I use Perspex, 2mm thick (1/12’?) so Polymethylmethacrylaat (PMMA), no VIVAK.
Because of my leight radio I can use some cheap weigth in the CG.
No vacuum just my whole body to pres the adaptor with the sheet over the plug. Two hands, two knees and my whole body. So use a thick adaptorplate when you try!!
And not on your desk mister Martenson, on the floor!
Temp 160 degrees C, 320degrees F
The plug for about 15 minutes in the oven, the Perspex about 10 minutes, and then.
GO
See the result,
#110
Thread Starter

Gents,
In the other thread “In Flight mixture control” is the theme.
Re-adjust the mixture during flight with an extra servo.
How about Ed, and the contest Taurus. Did Ed have an answer for that, the leaning out of an glowplug engine during flight?
Of course he did! Only he did not tell us the secrets direct, you have to search for that!.
A short story. But please, read it with a smile.
(No reso pipe, so no resonance and a sucking pressure before the exhaust closes by the piston.)
All the air is sucked by the breathing of the crankcase , enlarging the volume before opening the carburetor.
But how about the fuel?
The sucking pressure of the carburetor is the driving force, and especially the venturi of the carb does this job..
What are the disturbing factors?
1 Level of the fuel in the fueltank.
2 Flight position of the plane, so lower or higher fuel tank position when compare with the carburetor position.
The fuel is transported through the needlevalve by the under (sucking?) pressure P venture minus level of fuel.(h x @). And the “minus” changes whatever we do.
The amount of fuel is restricted mostly by the adjustable needle valve!!
What did Ed do to make the mixture as constant as possible without thinking of changing it during flight?
1 First built a light plane with it’s possible to use a little engine. What?, 70 “ span 0.45 engine?
But the sucking pressure is the same as from a big engine (or you need a special crankshaft!)!
1a So with that little engine you can use a small tank and the result is less difference in level of the fuel in the tank. Because there cannot be a big level difference in a small tank!!
1b Because of the little (short) engine the distance between the centre of the tank and carb is also low. So the influence of the position of the plane in the air is less. For that, look at the picture 1 compare the 45 K & B Greenhead with the 56 ST later used.!
1c By not using all the power of the engine, reduce the bore of the engine carburetor, this gives you relative more suction pressure of the carburetor so a lower influence of tank level and flight position. This is done by Ed with the Veco 45, see picture 2! Of course by closing the needle valve a little so you have the right mixture.
What?, 70 “ span 0.45 engine? And a restrictor in the carb? You are kidding!
Reducing the bore from 280 to 250 thousands of an inch reduces the open area with 20 %.
And again that little tank has an amount of fuel that will do the job, for one contest flight!
2 Last point, use a tricycle undercarriage so the plane accelerates and taxies after a flight in flightlevel position.
So, and what did we do later to destroy all these points of thinking
Indeed, all these things again, but than 180 degrees around the other way!
1 Little engine? Bull s**t, 0.60 at least is what we need, I like more!!!
2 But we do not fly contest and want to stay in the air, touchdowns are tricky, so bigger tank.
3 Speed is what we need, so less drag. Away with that old fashioned tricycle undercarriage.
4 Oh yes, we want a short runway for our tricycleplane with taildraggertransformation so the nose must be high, up in the air. (wing incidence. Nonsense!)
5 Preventing the engine starts his own business make the plane and everything stronger, for that, read the thread of foodstick and look at such a engine in picture 3!
This all has a destructive effect on the ratio of air and fuel during flight, but!!!!
No problem, we have a solution, we can change the ratio with our remote fuel mixture adjustment .
Who was that ? Talking about leaving the “pioneer days of RC”! I think we all do jump with two legs in ours at this moment. In the past Ed did had anything “Under control”, now we want to get “under control” anything!
Do not forget, smile!
Cees
In the other thread “In Flight mixture control” is the theme.
Re-adjust the mixture during flight with an extra servo.
How about Ed, and the contest Taurus. Did Ed have an answer for that, the leaning out of an glowplug engine during flight?
Of course he did! Only he did not tell us the secrets direct, you have to search for that!.
A short story. But please, read it with a smile.

(No reso pipe, so no resonance and a sucking pressure before the exhaust closes by the piston.)
All the air is sucked by the breathing of the crankcase , enlarging the volume before opening the carburetor.
But how about the fuel?
The sucking pressure of the carburetor is the driving force, and especially the venturi of the carb does this job..
What are the disturbing factors?
1 Level of the fuel in the fueltank.
2 Flight position of the plane, so lower or higher fuel tank position when compare with the carburetor position.
The fuel is transported through the needlevalve by the under (sucking?) pressure P venture minus level of fuel.(h x @). And the “minus” changes whatever we do.
The amount of fuel is restricted mostly by the adjustable needle valve!!
What did Ed do to make the mixture as constant as possible without thinking of changing it during flight?
1 First built a light plane with it’s possible to use a little engine. What?, 70 “ span 0.45 engine?
But the sucking pressure is the same as from a big engine (or you need a special crankshaft!)!
1a So with that little engine you can use a small tank and the result is less difference in level of the fuel in the tank. Because there cannot be a big level difference in a small tank!!
1b Because of the little (short) engine the distance between the centre of the tank and carb is also low. So the influence of the position of the plane in the air is less. For that, look at the picture 1 compare the 45 K & B Greenhead with the 56 ST later used.!
1c By not using all the power of the engine, reduce the bore of the engine carburetor, this gives you relative more suction pressure of the carburetor so a lower influence of tank level and flight position. This is done by Ed with the Veco 45, see picture 2! Of course by closing the needle valve a little so you have the right mixture.
What?, 70 “ span 0.45 engine? And a restrictor in the carb? You are kidding!
Reducing the bore from 280 to 250 thousands of an inch reduces the open area with 20 %.
And again that little tank has an amount of fuel that will do the job, for one contest flight!
2 Last point, use a tricycle undercarriage so the plane accelerates and taxies after a flight in flightlevel position.
So, and what did we do later to destroy all these points of thinking
Indeed, all these things again, but than 180 degrees around the other way!
1 Little engine? Bull s**t, 0.60 at least is what we need, I like more!!!
2 But we do not fly contest and want to stay in the air, touchdowns are tricky, so bigger tank.
3 Speed is what we need, so less drag. Away with that old fashioned tricycle undercarriage.
4 Oh yes, we want a short runway for our tricycleplane with taildraggertransformation so the nose must be high, up in the air. (wing incidence. Nonsense!)
5 Preventing the engine starts his own business make the plane and everything stronger, for that, read the thread of foodstick and look at such a engine in picture 3!
This all has a destructive effect on the ratio of air and fuel during flight, but!!!!
No problem, we have a solution, we can change the ratio with our remote fuel mixture adjustment .
Who was that ? Talking about leaving the “pioneer days of RC”! I think we all do jump with two legs in ours at this moment. In the past Ed did had anything “Under control”, now we want to get “under control” anything!
Do not forget, smile!
Cees
#111
Thread Starter

Gents, some threoretical "bla bla"
To complete the shape of the nose of the fuselage especially the bottom side I have to complete the engine mounting.
Material for the nose gear I have completed.
Ed did use blind nuts on the bottom of the engine bearers, I normally fix and glue in screws in the bearers.
There is no difference only with my method I protect the inside of the bearers from oil.
A broken screw I have to “burn” out with a solder iron.
In both situations the position of the engine is fixed, but not in this case. In the Wester Taurus.
I can make slots in the adaptor plate so the plate can be rotated.
Did Ed find it important to make the side thrust adjustable and, when “Yes”, how did he do that?
I think with the same adaptor plate, look at the article in the RCM & E when talking about his contest Taurus. See picture 1
Let me say it on a different way, I think Ed did use an adaptor plate in the past especially to make the side thrust adjustable, because there were not facilities to trim rudder or aileron direction. Only elevator.
I did make a picture to show the adaptor plate in my engine room. (Not scaled)
Yellow rotation angle
Red dots adaptor plate slots
Blue mounting screws
White thrust line (rotation)
BTW, I am also making a new canopy, better shape and an extra post about that, with important information about the method.
Cees
To complete the shape of the nose of the fuselage especially the bottom side I have to complete the engine mounting.
Material for the nose gear I have completed.
Ed did use blind nuts on the bottom of the engine bearers, I normally fix and glue in screws in the bearers.
There is no difference only with my method I protect the inside of the bearers from oil.
A broken screw I have to “burn” out with a solder iron.
In both situations the position of the engine is fixed, but not in this case. In the Wester Taurus.
I can make slots in the adaptor plate so the plate can be rotated.
Did Ed find it important to make the side thrust adjustable and, when “Yes”, how did he do that?
I think with the same adaptor plate, look at the article in the RCM & E when talking about his contest Taurus. See picture 1
Let me say it on a different way, I think Ed did use an adaptor plate in the past especially to make the side thrust adjustable, because there were not facilities to trim rudder or aileron direction. Only elevator.
I did make a picture to show the adaptor plate in my engine room. (Not scaled)
Yellow rotation angle
Red dots adaptor plate slots
Blue mounting screws
White thrust line (rotation)
BTW, I am also making a new canopy, better shape and an extra post about that, with important information about the method.
Cees
#112
Thread Starter

Gents,
The canopy was good but not good enough for me.
When observing from other angles it was too wide.
So the first one to short, 7mm number 1
Second length was good but too wide.
Third?
Making the third canopy I did learn a couple of things I found important to tell.
Keep clearance (play?) between the screws and perspex of the adaptor plate!
The temperature of the material is very, very, very important.
I did say 160 degrees C (320 F) but that is too much for this material.
Max 150 (302 F) degrees is good but you must use an thermometer in the oven to show the right measured temperature.
First put only the plug in the oven for about a quarter of an hour. When this is a wooden plug check it under this temperature and sand any unevenness, you can take it out the oven with (oven?)gloves.
Then open the oven an insert the adaptor with the Perspex , the temp is than about 140 C (284 F).
but , and that seems to be important:
Switch on the heating element (when off) by adjust for a moment the setpint at 160 degrees C (320 F) and back to 150 (302 F).
When the measured tempearature rises to 145 degrees C (293F) switch of the heating element by lowering the setpoint . The temperature still will rise some degrees depending of the oven.
Watch the material and take it out at 148 degrees or on any moment you see little bubbles in the material, and press it over the plug.
I hope you understand but look the result at the picture.
Canopy 3 , temperature was about 5 degrees too high and the element was still on. The radiation of the element is the reason of the milky canopy, the same you see in canopy 1 but that was still usable for VFR flying, canopy 3 pertinent not! With 3 the pilot only can fly on his instruments!.
Canopy four is the result of the research I described, right shape an clearance for VFR flying.
Second picture some material I did use to observe the temperature and result. Also trying using aluminum foil didn’t have result the mask the heating element, the pespex is too cold than to use..
Last picture the compare of the fourth canopy with the Top Flite from Kingaltair’s Plane.
Cees
The canopy was good but not good enough for me.
When observing from other angles it was too wide.
So the first one to short, 7mm number 1
Second length was good but too wide.
Third?
Making the third canopy I did learn a couple of things I found important to tell.
Keep clearance (play?) between the screws and perspex of the adaptor plate!
The temperature of the material is very, very, very important.
I did say 160 degrees C (320 F) but that is too much for this material.
Max 150 (302 F) degrees is good but you must use an thermometer in the oven to show the right measured temperature.
First put only the plug in the oven for about a quarter of an hour. When this is a wooden plug check it under this temperature and sand any unevenness, you can take it out the oven with (oven?)gloves.
Then open the oven an insert the adaptor with the Perspex , the temp is than about 140 C (284 F).
but , and that seems to be important:
Switch on the heating element (when off) by adjust for a moment the setpint at 160 degrees C (320 F) and back to 150 (302 F).
When the measured tempearature rises to 145 degrees C (293F) switch of the heating element by lowering the setpoint . The temperature still will rise some degrees depending of the oven.
Watch the material and take it out at 148 degrees or on any moment you see little bubbles in the material, and press it over the plug.
I hope you understand but look the result at the picture.
Canopy 3 , temperature was about 5 degrees too high and the element was still on. The radiation of the element is the reason of the milky canopy, the same you see in canopy 1 but that was still usable for VFR flying, canopy 3 pertinent not! With 3 the pilot only can fly on his instruments!.
Canopy four is the result of the research I described, right shape an clearance for VFR flying.
Second picture some material I did use to observe the temperature and result. Also trying using aluminum foil didn’t have result the mask the heating element, the pespex is too cold than to use..
Last picture the compare of the fourth canopy with the Top Flite from Kingaltair’s Plane.
Cees
#113
I would have just used the first one....................
But then again, I'm not doing an historical reconstruction
But then again, I'm not doing an historical reconstruction
#114
Thread Starter

Hello WEDJ
My project is trying to reconstruct the plane of the crate, and that's what you say, a historical reconstruction.
But I cannot look inside the plane of the crate so I can do concessions in the internal constructions.
First priority is copy every detail of the outside as good as possible.
So you can say, an optical reconstructiion of the outside of the plane in the crate but, trying also to copy the way of flying, so identical weight, trim etc.
That's the reason I also call it redesign.
Cees
My project is trying to reconstruct the plane of the crate, and that's what you say, a historical reconstruction.
But I cannot look inside the plane of the crate so I can do concessions in the internal constructions.
First priority is copy every detail of the outside as good as possible.
So you can say, an optical reconstructiion of the outside of the plane in the crate but, trying also to copy the way of flying, so identical weight, trim etc.
That's the reason I also call it redesign.
Cees
#115
Thread Starter

But,
Sometimes I also have to do concessions on the color, in this care, black instead of white.
I did get the material from a friend to make the nose gear pivot points.
These points you find in every Taurus of that period.
Behind the axle of the nose gear I did drill a hole (1,5 mm) to feed through the wire to lock/seal the screws as I show for one of them. The wire, blue on the construction drawing, I solder against the head of the screws (green) with a (big) solder iron to prevent anti clockwise rotation. (Double security!)
Picture 4 my "blind nuts", soldered on a piece of epoxy printed circuit board with copper on one side. The back side I glue with 2 component epoxy glue on the bulkhead.
Picture 5 , construction drawing.
Cees
Sometimes I also have to do concessions on the color, in this care, black instead of white.
I did get the material from a friend to make the nose gear pivot points.
These points you find in every Taurus of that period.
Behind the axle of the nose gear I did drill a hole (1,5 mm) to feed through the wire to lock/seal the screws as I show for one of them. The wire, blue on the construction drawing, I solder against the head of the screws (green) with a (big) solder iron to prevent anti clockwise rotation. (Double security!)
Picture 4 my "blind nuts", soldered on a piece of epoxy printed circuit board with copper on one side. The back side I glue with 2 component epoxy glue on the bulkhead.
Picture 5 , construction drawing.
Cees
#116
Thread Starter

Gents,
Some update pictures, the forecastle is finished.
I did change the design of the adaptor plate.
The mounting holes of my Webra 6 ccm (40) engine are 3 mm , 1/8 “ and I cannot combine these with a 10 cc engine.
BTW I think a 10 cc 0.60 is always too much power and with a too little tank in this plane
I still have a MVVS 45, 7,5 cc and the positions of these mountingholes are the same as the Webra, but 4 mm instead of 3.
So I decide to mount the adaptor plate with four separate bolts, glued in the bearers and not combine one of these polts with the engine screws.
The engines I can mount on the plate, with 3 (webra) of 4 mm (MVVS). On separate plates.
And of course the plates are adjustable in sidethrust and downthrust.
The pictures, fuse, only the bottom of the tail to sheet, front view and engine room.
To make you happy I did give the pivot points of the nosegear a little white paint.
Cees
Some update pictures, the forecastle is finished.
I did change the design of the adaptor plate.
The mounting holes of my Webra 6 ccm (40) engine are 3 mm , 1/8 “ and I cannot combine these with a 10 cc engine.
BTW I think a 10 cc 0.60 is always too much power and with a too little tank in this plane
I still have a MVVS 45, 7,5 cc and the positions of these mountingholes are the same as the Webra, but 4 mm instead of 3.
So I decide to mount the adaptor plate with four separate bolts, glued in the bearers and not combine one of these polts with the engine screws.
The engines I can mount on the plate, with 3 (webra) of 4 mm (MVVS). On separate plates.
And of course the plates are adjustable in sidethrust and downthrust.
The pictures, fuse, only the bottom of the tail to sheet, front view and engine room.
To make you happy I did give the pivot points of the nosegear a little white paint.
Cees
#118
Thread Starter

Gents,
Preparing the color scheme of the Taurus, again using the picture from Nobelchuck as the example.
I did make tape on the fuselage on 4 positions with dashes on them, bar lines.
After that I did make a picture from (nearly) the same position as the example.
After scaling the two fuses in 1 picture, I can copy blocks from the example on my white fuse and calculate the exact positions of the color scheme on the bar lines.
I can do the same with the back side by making a mirror image.
I know, the black dash does have another proportion on the back side, so have attention for that.
The canopy is still a little too high, this is completed when mounting on the fuse in the future.
Cees
Preparing the color scheme of the Taurus, again using the picture from Nobelchuck as the example.
I did make tape on the fuselage on 4 positions with dashes on them, bar lines.
After that I did make a picture from (nearly) the same position as the example.
After scaling the two fuses in 1 picture, I can copy blocks from the example on my white fuse and calculate the exact positions of the color scheme on the bar lines.
I can do the same with the back side by making a mirror image.
I know, the black dash does have another proportion on the back side, so have attention for that.
The canopy is still a little too high, this is completed when mounting on the fuse in the future.
Cees
#119
Thread Starter

Gents,
Some progress,
First picture, prepare the check of the positions of the dowels and a study of the painting of the tail of the fuselage and the tail feathers.
Second picture, the preparing of the triangular spars for the wings, from 10 mm (3/8”) balsa. So, start of the wingconstruction, so important moment to archive.
Cees
Some progress,
First picture, prepare the check of the positions of the dowels and a study of the painting of the tail of the fuselage and the tail feathers.
Second picture, the preparing of the triangular spars for the wings, from 10 mm (3/8”) balsa. So, start of the wingconstruction, so important moment to archive.
Cees
#120
Thread Starter

Gents for who is interested,
Spar(s and)ribs and a look in the D tube.
I do glue the spars and ribs together without any needles, tape, magnets or weights.
First the ribs, spars and shear webs and later the nose LE and TE spars.
By using white wood glue the fixation I can make by holding each joining for a while.
Each spar, LE and TE, has saw slots on the position of the ribs.
These slots in the LE and TE spars I draw on these spars by laying them on the ribs near the main spars in the right (swept?) angle.
Normally, using spruce main spars, I glue in the shear webs later and build the wings mounted together.
The triangle main spars look good to me.
Cees
Spar(s and)ribs and a look in the D tube.
I do glue the spars and ribs together without any needles, tape, magnets or weights.
First the ribs, spars and shear webs and later the nose LE and TE spars.
By using white wood glue the fixation I can make by holding each joining for a while.
Each spar, LE and TE, has saw slots on the position of the ribs.
These slots in the LE and TE spars I draw on these spars by laying them on the ribs near the main spars in the right (swept?) angle.
Normally, using spruce main spars, I glue in the shear webs later and build the wings mounted together.
The triangle main spars look good to me.
Cees
#121
Thread Starter

Gents,
There is some delay in the building of the Wester Taurus.
In my TF Taurus I use a speed transmitter that is designed for 144 km/h and good for the cruise control.
The Wester Taurus will fly a lot slower so I decided to make a new speed transmitter only for data logging.
The sensor I make larger (40mm) to get also a better accuracy in low speed conditions.
Because of the G forces I always build in this sensor (membrane) vertical, so also in the TF Taurus. In the wing. In front of the left main gear leg, on the other side than the exhaust.
The new transmitter does not fit anymore on this place in the new Taurus so I place this beside the aileron servo in the centre of the wing. The pitot tube will get a place just like the TF Taurus, because of the prop wash, in front of the left main gear leg.
This place for the instrument, the centre of the wing, is also better for maneuverability with that light wing!
Ed especially did use the strip ailerons for that!
About a week I continue with building the wings so I can fit also this instrument and tubing and wiring.
Cees
There is some delay in the building of the Wester Taurus.
In my TF Taurus I use a speed transmitter that is designed for 144 km/h and good for the cruise control.
The Wester Taurus will fly a lot slower so I decided to make a new speed transmitter only for data logging.
The sensor I make larger (40mm) to get also a better accuracy in low speed conditions.
Because of the G forces I always build in this sensor (membrane) vertical, so also in the TF Taurus. In the wing. In front of the left main gear leg, on the other side than the exhaust.
The new transmitter does not fit anymore on this place in the new Taurus so I place this beside the aileron servo in the centre of the wing. The pitot tube will get a place just like the TF Taurus, because of the prop wash, in front of the left main gear leg.
This place for the instrument, the centre of the wing, is also better for maneuverability with that light wing!
Ed especially did use the strip ailerons for that!
About a week I continue with building the wings so I can fit also this instrument and tubing and wiring.
Cees
#123
Thread Starter

Gents,
I make progress with the speed sensor.
My logger is designed for sensor from 0 – 200 (160 mph)
A sensor for 0 – 200 km/h (160mph) has a accuracy from 5 % below 80 km/h (50 mph). And when this is the full scale value, then it’s +/- 10 km/h. These instrument are no more actual, maybe on that worldwide site we all talk about.
When I make the instrument myself I can define the values myself and try to get a better instrument.
The pressure difference of the pitot tube is low, especially at low speeds.
144 km/h = 90 mph , the pressure difference is 100 mm water column so 4 “ water column.
But a speed of 72 km / h = 45 mph , gives a pressure difference 25 mm wc , 1 “ wc.
With 36 km/h = 23 mph, the pressure difference is 6,25 mm wc, , ¼ “ wc, so very low.
When you want to measure with high accuracy it is important to bring down the max speed to measure, so calibrated range will be for my instrument 0 – 100 km/h is 62 mph.
Maximum pressure difference will be about 50 mm wc is 20 “ wc
My Robbe bordcomputer will do the calculation (root extracting)
Biggest problem is the drift with low temperatures
So in the winter I put the whole test array in the snow, easier than the refrigerator.
Results are good already, maybe I can show you a simple test rapport in the coming days.
Today I did reach a zero drift from less than 1 % full scale for 0 – 100 km/h (62 mph) between the warm and cold condition, a difference from about 20 degrees C is 36 degrees Fahrenheit see picture 1.
On a normal flying day the temperature is nearly constant and I always do zero adjustment so this will do.
The range is global calibrated but that’s easy to complete. Most important is to get a stabile instrument with less drift depending from temperature, supply voltage and so on.
Next action is to compress the circuit to usable proportions, just I show in picture 2, the transmitter of the TF Taurus.
Picture 3, of course Hanna Poes is always highly interested.
I will keep you informed.
Cees
I make progress with the speed sensor.
My logger is designed for sensor from 0 – 200 (160 mph)
A sensor for 0 – 200 km/h (160mph) has a accuracy from 5 % below 80 km/h (50 mph). And when this is the full scale value, then it’s +/- 10 km/h. These instrument are no more actual, maybe on that worldwide site we all talk about.
When I make the instrument myself I can define the values myself and try to get a better instrument.
The pressure difference of the pitot tube is low, especially at low speeds.
144 km/h = 90 mph , the pressure difference is 100 mm water column so 4 “ water column.
But a speed of 72 km / h = 45 mph , gives a pressure difference 25 mm wc , 1 “ wc.
With 36 km/h = 23 mph, the pressure difference is 6,25 mm wc, , ¼ “ wc, so very low.
When you want to measure with high accuracy it is important to bring down the max speed to measure, so calibrated range will be for my instrument 0 – 100 km/h is 62 mph.
Maximum pressure difference will be about 50 mm wc is 20 “ wc
My Robbe bordcomputer will do the calculation (root extracting)
Biggest problem is the drift with low temperatures
So in the winter I put the whole test array in the snow, easier than the refrigerator.
Results are good already, maybe I can show you a simple test rapport in the coming days.
Today I did reach a zero drift from less than 1 % full scale for 0 – 100 km/h (62 mph) between the warm and cold condition, a difference from about 20 degrees C is 36 degrees Fahrenheit see picture 1.
On a normal flying day the temperature is nearly constant and I always do zero adjustment so this will do.
The range is global calibrated but that’s easy to complete. Most important is to get a stabile instrument with less drift depending from temperature, supply voltage and so on.
Next action is to compress the circuit to usable proportions, just I show in picture 2, the transmitter of the TF Taurus.
Picture 3, of course Hanna Poes is always highly interested.
I will keep you informed.
Cees
#124
Thread Starter

Gents,
For who is interested something to read in the dark days that come.
The airspeed sensor is ready, only encapsulation I have still to do.
I will do that later after the calibration with the pitot tube with my car.
Important for me was to make the sensor and so to know the dimensions and give it a place in the wing.
Now I can make a compartment beside the aileron servo, in the centre section of the wing, see the picture.
The service plug to measure the signal for zero adjustment and this adjusting I make in the bottom of the wing centre section so I can check the signal without removing the wings.
Two tubes from about 22 cm / 9 “ will connect the pitot tube near the left side main wheel leg with the sensor.
Some values of the instrument I show in the sheet of picture 1, for me to archive together with the circuit diagram.
Picture 2 the 3D layout of compressed components in the instrument. All before I will fill the space between the components with suet/tallow?. (Yes I also flying 3D)
Picture 3 Weight 39 grams, (1 ¼ ounce?)
Picture 4 the place in the wing.
ABOUT MEASUREMENT
For cruise control I do mount the transmitter normal directly near the pitot tube.
The speed of measurement has to be as fast as possible to adjust a high control loop gain and have the best cruise control.
For the Wester Taurus the connection tubes to the pitot tube will be around 25 cm (9”) so the measurement is a little slower but still within tenths of seconds.
I will not use cruise control in the Wester Taurus in the first flight period.
SOME FACTS ABOUT CRUISE CONTROL
For cruise control I use a root extractor that calculates the pressure difference of the pitot tube to values speed, see the diagram, 10 km/h (10 % speed) the pressure difference is only 1 % of the max value, 4 % difference for 20 km/h etc.. See picture 5.
In the diagram it is also interesting to see the engine is used for 50 % of his action as a brake when the speed is above the setpoint. The – part of the “line of action”
This works because the cruise control keeps the RPM’s of the engine on controlled values so the propeller doesn’t stall. Only near Idle and above 80 – 90 km/h I think the break doesn’t work or bad , the angles of attack of the prop are too negative.
I Hope to learn more of this possibility of airbrake in the second part of flying with the Wester Taurus and the algorithm, parameters but also propeller to use.
Braking power of the engine will depend on the profile of the propeller and is like inverted flying with an asymmetrical wing! Also the shape of the nose radius is important because of the negative angles of attack. The weight of the plane decides the braking force and the pressure difference over the area of the rotating propeller together with the total drag of the plane.
Normally, with my TF Taurus, I fly with higher gain values than showed in the diagram and not alone with proportional action but also with differential and integrating but these are not easy to explain. The Wester Taurus will be a lot lighter so the cruise control must do better on this plane especially the brake action..
With a measured airspeed beneath the setpoint it is thrust what we get from the engine, see diagram the + of the “line of action”.
Limitation of the setpoint above the stall speed is my security to fly with low speeds without stalling.
In the diagram the setpoint is 70 km/h as example.
The engine Idle is adjusted to prevent the engine is cut off by the controller.
So enough about the electronics, you have something to read and I now making dust again.
Cees
For who is interested something to read in the dark days that come.
The airspeed sensor is ready, only encapsulation I have still to do.
I will do that later after the calibration with the pitot tube with my car.
Important for me was to make the sensor and so to know the dimensions and give it a place in the wing.
Now I can make a compartment beside the aileron servo, in the centre section of the wing, see the picture.
The service plug to measure the signal for zero adjustment and this adjusting I make in the bottom of the wing centre section so I can check the signal without removing the wings.
Two tubes from about 22 cm / 9 “ will connect the pitot tube near the left side main wheel leg with the sensor.
Some values of the instrument I show in the sheet of picture 1, for me to archive together with the circuit diagram.
Picture 2 the 3D layout of compressed components in the instrument. All before I will fill the space between the components with suet/tallow?. (Yes I also flying 3D)
Picture 3 Weight 39 grams, (1 ¼ ounce?)
Picture 4 the place in the wing.
ABOUT MEASUREMENT
For cruise control I do mount the transmitter normal directly near the pitot tube.
The speed of measurement has to be as fast as possible to adjust a high control loop gain and have the best cruise control.
For the Wester Taurus the connection tubes to the pitot tube will be around 25 cm (9”) so the measurement is a little slower but still within tenths of seconds.
I will not use cruise control in the Wester Taurus in the first flight period.
SOME FACTS ABOUT CRUISE CONTROL
For cruise control I use a root extractor that calculates the pressure difference of the pitot tube to values speed, see the diagram, 10 km/h (10 % speed) the pressure difference is only 1 % of the max value, 4 % difference for 20 km/h etc.. See picture 5.
In the diagram it is also interesting to see the engine is used for 50 % of his action as a brake when the speed is above the setpoint. The – part of the “line of action”
This works because the cruise control keeps the RPM’s of the engine on controlled values so the propeller doesn’t stall. Only near Idle and above 80 – 90 km/h I think the break doesn’t work or bad , the angles of attack of the prop are too negative.
I Hope to learn more of this possibility of airbrake in the second part of flying with the Wester Taurus and the algorithm, parameters but also propeller to use.
Braking power of the engine will depend on the profile of the propeller and is like inverted flying with an asymmetrical wing! Also the shape of the nose radius is important because of the negative angles of attack. The weight of the plane decides the braking force and the pressure difference over the area of the rotating propeller together with the total drag of the plane.
Normally, with my TF Taurus, I fly with higher gain values than showed in the diagram and not alone with proportional action but also with differential and integrating but these are not easy to explain. The Wester Taurus will be a lot lighter so the cruise control must do better on this plane especially the brake action..
With a measured airspeed beneath the setpoint it is thrust what we get from the engine, see diagram the + of the “line of action”.
Limitation of the setpoint above the stall speed is my security to fly with low speeds without stalling.
In the diagram the setpoint is 70 km/h as example.
The engine Idle is adjusted to prevent the engine is cut off by the controller.
So enough about the electronics, you have something to read and I now making dust again.
Cees
#125
Thread Starter

ORIGINAL: MetallicaJunkie
Wow you do some amazing work, i wish you were my neighbor!
Wow you do some amazing work, i wish you were my neighbor!
Because: "Your wish is my command!"
Cees



