Classic Fundamentals...Calypso continued!

Monokoting a Butyrate Canopy- It is possible to Monokote a butyrate canopy. Using a Monokote trim iron on high heat, carefully heat the 1/4" wide strip on one end of the canopy. Keep the iron moving and NEVER stop, or hold the iron over the canopy...only the edge. The butyrate will distort with very little heat.

Cowl- The Model Master plastic model paint dryed over night. The cowl was mounted to the fuse to layout the lines. A cardboard circle was used for the top front radius using a soft lead pencil. 3m green 1/8" trim tape was used for the edge followed by 1/4" and the rest was blue painters tape. 3m brown scotch brite pad was gently used to remove the shine of the tan and white base coats.

Insignia Blue Monokote paint was warmed and shaken for about (5) minutes. I walked out the back door and sprayed (3) coats in the 34 degree temperature going in the house for about (6) minutes in between coats. The paint really flows in the lower temperatures.

After about 30 minutes the tape mask and outline were removed and the part set aside to dry for a few days before I drop it off at my painters for the PPG clear urethane. The graphics will be added before the clear.

Rusty Dose
Team Futaba

Classic Fundamentals...fillets, elevator pushrod, rudder cables, tail wheels!

More details of the 1983 World Champion Calypso

Fillets- Film covered models can look even more "finished" with a small filet added after the stabilizer and fin are installed. I use Bob Violet Models Aeropoxy #BVM9566 $15.00 per cartridge (Loctite 9462 Hysol $7.50 per cartridge McMaster/Carr) to create a tiny fillet. I apply a small bead and wet my finger with denatured alcohol and keep running across joint. Paper towels and more passes remove the excess epoxy. The Calypso color scheme matches the natural color...you can dye the glue with Testor's plastic enamel to match Monokote colors as well.

Elevator pushrod- The elevator pushrod was built during construction and test fit. A 2.5 mm dual axis ball end from Central Hobbies connected with a titanium 2.5 mm rod end to a Dave Brown carbon arrow shaft. The "Y" end is standard 2-56 steel threaded rod to Hayes nylon steel pinned clevis. Do not forget the large fuel tubing to keep it shut. The control horns are MK Large aluminum horns from Central Hobbies about $8 each.

Making the elevator halves "perfect"- I use (2) .060 mm sharpened carbon rods taped to the elevators.

Rudder cables- The Futaba 9151 digital servo has about 180 inch/oz of torque. Keeping the cables tight...

1. Measure the distance between the center-line of the rudder and the control horn. Calypso was about 1/8" BEHIND CENTERLINE.
2. Using a large wheel, mark a line 1/8" towards the REAR of the wheel. Drill holes for (2) 2.5mm dual axis rod ends (Central Hobbies) and install by adding (1) extra 2-56 washer to raise the ball off of the servo wheel.
3. Add a 2-56 nut to a 2-56 threaded eyelet to the dual axis rod end.
4. Thread the braided cable from the rear of the model, crossing and attach with stainless steel crimp (Proctor Enterprises) loop the cable through (2x) for security...crimp with diagonal cutters (3x).
5. Install fin, hinge rudder and add rudder horn. Tetra rudder horn from Central Hobbies shown.
6. Add small heat shrink (blue), larger heat shrink (red), crimp and Hayes clevis with 2-56 eyelet with 2-56 nut. Do not forget to add the large fuel tubing.
7. The rudder horn is attachment points are the same distance apart as the servo wheel...completeing the symmetrical geometry for tight rudder cables through out movement.

Tail wheel- 4-40 bolt was cut-off and medium silicone fuel tubing was forced onto bolt and secured to rudder with servo screw (Central Hobbies). The steering is positive yet is forgiving if the tail wheel is hit hard.

Rusty Dose
Team Futaba

Looks great Rusty. I really like the steerable tail wheel with thetubing; I imagine it must take some of the steering shock off of the rudder itself. Never saw that, but what a great idea. Looking forward to May!
Mark

Classic Fundamentals...Calypso COMPLETE!!!

1983 WC Calypso Replica-

Modeltech Kit from RCU Classic Pattern participant $250 plus shipping
Super Tigre S-61 from Buy-Bay about $150 plus shipping
Mac's header and 10cc pipe about $100
Miscellaneous parts $150
Covering and Paint $60
BadBrad custom Graphics $140
Futaba receiver, battery, switch, servos about $400
Total $1,250 ready to fly

Specifications

Wingspan- 64"
Wing area- 730 sq inc
Weight- 6 pounds 13 ounces w/o fuel ready to fly

Fly this model at the Chicago Classic Pattern Championships May 29, 2010 at the Fox Valley Aero Club.

Rusty Dose
Team Futaba

rusty, where did your posts/thread on thread relevance go? did it get deleted?

While not exactly offering any tips and techniques here, some are being requested on Rusty's current build - the Calypso.

I received my World Engines Calypso kit. While I wouldn't describe the kit as stellar in original quality or current state, it should be salvageable with some restorative work. Sheeting on the wings is 3 mm so somewhat thick by today's standards. Fortunately the foam is 3/4 lb. I've yet to weigh them but a good sanding should bring them into shape. The stabs look like they were chewed on by a big dog [:-] - plenty of "tooth marks" and the sheeting is cracked in a few spots (see photos). Again, some TLC should make them usable.

The fuse fortunately remains to be built and although some of the wood has seen better days (more dog chomping), the dents should disappear in the build. At least the kit makes for a good set of templates for a fresh kit which I'll make for posterity. On to a few questions:
[ul][*] The cowl is rather thin and cracked in several places. How would you go about restoring it? Should I lay more glass atop in thin layers and then resin the inside again? Maybe some CF on the inside? How best to lay it in? I'm not sure but I think this is a PU/glass cowl judging from the colour (haven't done the scratch test).
[*] I inserted one of the 1/8" ply FW's into the rear to give it some shape as it is rather distorted. I was considering making a FW ring to glue permanently into the cowl and then screwing it into the FW from the front through the cooling slot and nose ring. Any recommendations or suggestions on that?
[*] Although the wing tips indicate the top and bottom of the wing, there's no indication on the location of the landing gear or if any blocks have been installed. I'd like to install retracts. Would someone be kind enough to provide me with the measurements for locating these? (Rusty, Chuck?)
[*] The wing has two ply dihedral braces. Rusty/Chuck did these pose any issue in the production of the wing tunnel for the pipe?
[*] My kit is designated as the "sport" version. I'm not sure what the difference is between this and the "non sport" (or Hanno) version I presume - any ideas?
[*] I've seen the wing with strip ailerons (e.g., Rusty's) and then with more of an F3A aileron setup out of the prop wash. Any recommendations on which to go with? The latter could be produced without too much work by cutting them out of the bonded strip ailerons to the wing TE. I'll be using dual aileron servos.
[*] Finally, although asked before, does anyone have any plans for it? The best I have seen are the reduced scale drawings that come with the Model Tech ARC although I think the Aviomodelli kit came with plans. A set really ought to be made if no proper ones exist.
[/ul]
Chuck,

I received the piece of Kevlar - much appreciated! A piece will be used on the fuse header tunnel. BTW, my kit shows a couple of pieces of 3 mm (1/8") balsa used as a floor for the fuel tank under which are the two bottom nose blocks (MK style) where the header sits. Did you feel any need to substitute that balsa for ply? Will the Kevlar be sufficient to keep the heat at bay?

Also, did you run into any issues with the installation of the RE YS? Does the cowl enclose the engine? Did you use a regular fuse top header? I'm considering the same setup.

Here are some pics of the chomped kit...

Yes they had to be cleared..I was concerned about this and tried to take away minimal material..

My kit was a ModelTech ARC so the fuse was built..If I remember correctly I think my fuel tank floor is ply...I can't look at it to confirm because it's covered by the Kevlar pipe tunnel now so I can't see it..I'm pretty sure it's ply though..I remember I added some more ply in that area because I changed it over to fixed gear..It's possible I could be confused weather the whole tank floor is ply or just what I added??

I set mine up for a YS-61 LS mounted inverted..The head will protrude through the bottom of the cowling otherwise It's enclosed nicely...I did use a 1.5" fuse top header..I'm probably going to install a OS 61 RF instead so I'll have to re-work the cowl a little to re-locate the needle valve hole and shorten it a little but not a big deal at all...

Good Luck and enjoy!!

Chuck

carbon fiber veil or mat will fix the cowl with minimum weight, i have both the .5 qnd the .2 oz per square yard material makes a huge improvement in strength and rigidity and its easy to use.

Chuck,

thanks for the details. I remember seeing your YS installation now. Why switch it for the RF? Come to think of it, I seem to recall your Hatori pipe clearing the wing nicely without any need for the wing tunnel. Did you change that? I like the lack of tunnel in the wing if the header and pipe allow it. I suppose one would do a nice pancake job of the pipe either way in the event the gear were not to deploy (fixed gear does take care of that doesn't it... )

Using ply for the tank floor seems like a good idea. There's some 1/16" ply intended for additional turtle deck formers (a WE addition - they thought the design and layout was a problem as it came from Blue Bird). I'll use it for the floor instead and use some lite ply for the formers.

I spent a couple of hours this evening getting the wings and stabs in shape. After lots of elbow grease and the removal of 1/2 oz from each wing panel, things look much better. Likewise on the stabs which I'll build tomorrow. Still, each wing panel is weighing ~9-1/4" oz which strikes me as a bit heavy. By the time the wing is completely built, it will be over 25 oz unfinished...

Any chance you could give me some measurements on the wing gear?
[ul][*] Distance of plate far end from wing center
[*] Distance of wheel well base from wing center
[*] Distance of gear strut line from wing LE @ center
[*] Size of wheel well (2.5" or 2.75")?
[/ul]
I should be able to get the gear in with those four measurements (I just have to decide which kind). The trouble is much appreciated.

Do you have an unfinished AUW? Someone said his came out at 9 lbs! (darn that 3/32" sheeting on the wings). I'm going to have to do some work on the doublers and formers. 120 oz AUW would be nice.

David.

Lorin,

would you suggest using the veil on the inside? just lay it in 3 or 4 pieces on each surface? I have to get me some of this composite stuff.

I think I'll have to do a couple of layers of 3/4 oz glass cloth on the outside too in order to seal and fix the cracks. Hopefully it will give it some shape too. I'd say the cowl is made of a single layer of 2 oz cloth! The pipe tunnel glass sheet simply curled up into a straw . Granted, the kit must be 20-25 years old.

I tell you, every time I open a kit, I'm a little taken aback by the quality of materials. The QC is so much better when one scratches. On the plus side, the canopy looks rock solid and is nicely tinted.

David.

P.S. I didn't get to thank you for your PM. In light of what was coming down the pipes, it was very much appreciated - thanks.

Classic Fundamentals...stuff about building and improving one's skills!

David- The Calypso variations are quite interesting. I am waiting for Dave G. to send me photos of his completed Calypso from the World Engines "Sport" version. "Master Foamy" has created a 30" Dalotel indoor model completely out of foam! I am going to pick it up in Toledo. Based on your plans with the 10% puffed-up fuselage should come in around 10 - 12 ounces RTF. How are the laser parts coming for the Dalotel "E" 30? I have the wings/stabs ready to ship.

Learning to use dope and tissue...Nothing is more beautiful than a well done control line stunt model executed in silk and dope. I will be completing a few late 60's antique pattern models in the Fall and want to acquire the skills to use tissue, silk and dope as a finish. My little boys also love to fly free-flight models and are helping Dad build and fly our ever growing collection.

Practice makes for more perfect- The photos show a much needed distraction to the many projects...a Guillow's Arrow. The model was completed over a few evenings last week on the kitchen table. Covering is tissue from the original kit and new japanese tissue from Sig Manufacturing. This was a proof of concept to use the new radio system that comes with the Great Planes Playmate, a 1 ounce RTF indoor/outdoor model. I will be creating some minature 60's pattern classics for indoor use.

Proud picture- My MK Champion (orange with black stripes), Sig Kommander (blue, yellow and stars/bars), Goldberg Falcon 56 (not in photo) are in a NEW display at the Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA) Museum in Oshkosh, Wisconsing through December 2010. The exhibition is dedicated to model airplanes!!!!!

Rusty Dose
Team Futaba

I was just checking out the Arrow and Comet Cloud Boy that Guillows just started making. Those were old when even I was young, Rusty!
Fun stuff.
Chris...

Classic Fundamentals...a picture essay of building/finishing techniques!

Tipo 750 (Tiporare 750)...originally built by Dick Hanson/finish by Dave Guerin

The Tipo 750 shown here was recently acquired on "Buy-Bay" for about $800. What makes it particularly special is the fact that it was built by Dick Hanson the designer in the early 80s for an Ohio pattern flier. All aspects of the model were perfectly retained and original from Dick's notes written on each of the parts, the hand written directions and the custom shipping boxes.

The model was 90% complete just requiring stab/fin/rudder installation, final retract and engine cut-outs and radio installation. The quality of craftsmanship is some of the best I have seen and I have models built by all of the top US builders. The balsa selection is truly amazing with feather light components.

Dave Guerin was given the responsibility of assembling the parts and the paint/film finish. Dave tells me that it was a real "treat" to work on this project. Dave will use his PPG base coat/clear urethane paint for the fuselage and Monokote for the flying surfaces. I chose the Dave Brown classic color scheme using orange, mist blue and dark blue pin striping.

Equipment:

YS .60 side exhaust short stroke with Hatori header/pipe
Dave Brown (3) gear mechanical retracts
Futaba electronics

The photos show the fuselage just out of the paint shop. It will be on display at the Chicago Classic Pattern Championships.

Rusty Dose
Team Futaba

Classic Fundamentals...equipment and tank over CG installation Blue Angel!

Blue Angel rigging- Dave Guerin built/painted/film appliation and I do the equipment installation.

Challenges- The Blue Angel has very little room for placing all of the goodies, a CG mounted fuel tank, YS pressurized fuel system fittings, mechanical tri-gear retracts with (2) servos...

CG mounted tank- The Sullivan 12 ounce round tank is captured in the front with a custom bulkhead made of 1/8" lite-ply and the rear "saddle" is made of 1/8" light ply with 1/4" plywwod ears added to capture the small brass eyelets for the #64 rubber bands. The saddle has large silicon fuel tubing with a slit for the tank to ride. The formers were made using the blue flexible ruler shown on page #1 of this thread, transferred to poster board and then transferred after fiddling to the plywood. The pieces are CAd in place then BVM Aeropoxy is added for final bonding.

Battery mount- The 600 mah Futaba 4 cell ni-cad pack is mounted to a 1/8" lite-ply floor with 1/2" natural foam rubber and a red velcro strap.

Receiver mount- The Futaba 6117 2.4 receiver is mounted to a 1/" lite-ply plate with a small triangle reinforcement and atached with velcro. The antennae tubes are plastic throttle tube CAd in place creating the 90 degree/perpendicular array per the directions.

Servo tray- The servo tray holds the Futaba rudder, elevator servos with a little cantilevered support added to the throttle servo and receiver mount. Note that a 1/4" natural foam ruber pad is placed under the receiver/servos to avoid wire chaffing on the very coarse glass fuselage.

Switch mount- A 1/2" lite-ply donut supports the DuBro switch mount and the Ernst charge jack is simply mounted directly to the fuse side.

Fuel connections- A 1/8" lite-ply support was made for the Tettra 90 degree fuel fitting s and fuel dot. A helicopter part from an unknown Japanese supplier is the fuel shut off. A "T" will be added to the vent line. Note the photo of the YS engine with the nylon wire holder and the YS one way pressure valve. I simply use the rear engine bolt to hold the nylon bracket which keeps the valve from bouncing around.

Elevator pushrod- The pushrod is a Central Hobbies carbon shaft with 3 mm dual axis end/ 3 mm titanium threaded rod end and is captured in the rear with a brass tube in the tail post. Central Hobbies control horns shortend about 12 mm and cupped aluminum washers (Horizon R/C car accessory aluminum) replace the washers supplied with the horns.

Rusty Dose
Team Futaba

It appears that there haven't been any posts on the thread since May. I take it the BA has maidened and the T750 might be in the rigging stages?

Anyone else have any interesting tid bits appropriate for this thread?

David.

I saw the Blue Angel fly in May at the Chicago contest. Nice model. Rusty isn't afraid to fly LOW!

I'm also wondering about the Tipo. I wish mine was light blue and orange. It would go with my Gulf Oil motif better than my dark blue and orange.

I'll try to show my work as I finish my Tipo redo. It'll be after this weekend because I'm doing Scale ARF's with the kids right now.

Chris...

we haven't heard much from Rusty in a while either.

He must be making dough.
Chris...

cool to have this all centralized,, lots of answers here,, thanks

David,

he has been posting the progress on his Tweedy Bird build in the Classic Pattern Association forum. But yes, otherwise quiet.

David.

because he's been banned for selling (or promoting sales) it appears. although i think that's absurd. what has he sold? i would like to get some input on what happened.

Are you SERIOUS???? Was he really banned?

Brian

or in a moderation status (for selling). ???? i don't remember rusty selling stuff. he is passionate about classic pattern for sure and wants us all to take advantage of everything available but not wide open like other threads we see.

just thinking about this a little. weren't Rusty's posts more resource oriented than actual selling?

Classic Fundamentals...cool stuff!

My Tweety Bird-

My brother Tom, my Dad and I are building a Tweety Bird with the new E-Flite retracts. Here is the progress.


BECHIP
(B.E. "Chip" Dose IV)

P.S. Thanks Mom for helping me write better!