Warbarb

[sm=thumbup.gif] The heavy duty landing gear makes the heli a lot more rugged. I love mine. [8D]

IMAC781

My Feedback: (2)

GTX,
Did you have to remove the tail boom to install the strut holder?

IMAC781

My Feedback: (2)

Hi guys,
I'm new here so please forgive if you've heard this one.
Having set the main blade pitch to 0 degrees in idle up mode at 50% throttle (trim low) I find when I return to normal mode they have 2 degrees positive incidence at low throttle/low trim. Is this normal?

zooland1

It's from the GWS DF. Got both fins in Jax at the LHS for about three bucks. The skids are from the MX400.

zooland1

Just implies your idea of 50% and your heli's is in two different places. It won't hurt anything and actually may help with earlier lift in normal mode.

GTX SlotCar

No, it pushes over the boom and snaps to it, then the nut and bolt tighten it.

GTX SlotCar

Here's some pictures of my DF4 and a couple other things we're working on.

jzitting

I tried switching the motor wires and that worked but now I'm not getting any pitch on the blades. I am starting to think the 4-in-1 has something wrong with it unless you guy's can give me a better idea.

RamboSmurf

[]OK, just a bit of info for everybody. LHS is about 20 miles, so I decided to use automotive emblem mounting tape instead of servo mounting tape (looked the same and I had some). It's not! Elevator servo let loose and then all flight charateristics go out the window. Wow, Acrobatics, throttle and ground. Moral, ALWAYS use servo tape. Just thought I would pass that along. Now I gotta go the the hobby shop anyway. (I'm personally paying for his summer vacation).
Keep on flying no matter what happens

PwrOfCheese

Q: Are your other servos moving at all?

Silly question, but are you sure the 4n1 initialized? Solid green light?

Also, can you confirm that you tried unplugging the main motor and tail motor, let BCP initialize (making sure you're not in idle up mode) and then moved the throttle up and down to check the pitch?

GTX SlotCar

Double sided outdoor carpet tape, made by Intertape, is like servo tape. It's available at most hardware stores and a 42' roll costs about the same as a few inches of servo tape. I use it all the time with no problems.

Skiddz

Carpet tape REALLY sticks.. Just gotta make sure both surfaces are FLAT as the stuff I use has no "padding" like 3M double sided tape. Super cheap too...

RamboSmurf

Thanks. Igot some of that on hand. Didn't think of it. Now the wobble is back at the rotor head. Does the main shaft bend everytime the blades hit the ground or boom? I've replaced everything but the pin thru the shaft and it always seems like the wobble comes back. Then we start that yo-yo crap. Am I missing something? This is driving me nuts.
2nd problem. I have a honeybee2 that starts out fine but then the motor drops power, set it down, wait 30 sec, start up, flys great and then motor drops again. Any suggestions? Oh, yea. Thats got a small amount of wobble also, very small though.
Thanks for help

zooland1

They also make thicker carpet tape. Looks just like servo tape, only a lot bigger.

Have you checked the spindle that is inside the head. Joins the grips. If it's bent it will bind.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

I think I cured my last wobble by loosening the blades a little...

Warbarb

No, the fin is split and just fits over the boom and is secured with a screw and nut.

zooland1

The blades should move about 2" when you rap them with your finger.

RamboSmurf

Thanks. Main shaft was bent bad and the blade were to tight. Wobbles gone, but now it seems as though I lost power. The motor spins up to about 1/2 fine, go past 3/4 throttle and the motor slows down. It now needs almost 3/4 to hover. There is no binding anywhere. It will hold at 3/4 but when I throttle down to set it down the revs increase. Past 3/4 and the red light comes on in the 4 in 1. Is it possible the motors going? Any other ideas.
RS

zooland1

Double check your tracking. Sounds like you got some negative pitch going on.

Hermann300

RamboSmurf.... check the pitch on your blades, I had the same problem until I found that I had about 4 degrees pitch on low throttle and low trim, you just might have this problem. besides if you fly like this your main motor will heat up a lot.

Guys... in my field there's always wind running, and sometimes very gusty, normally it is calmed but with wind I haven't been able to foward fly like I want, I start hovering and have to fight it a lot, then I thing it's going to fix when I start going forward and yes it does but 20' later, the tail starts going kind of crazy. I went to a gym and flew for a while, no problems there so I guess this little thing is affected by wind uhh?? First I thought it was my gyro set up but guess not... besides I am kind of new on the hobby... 'been flying planes for about 6 months and heli about 4, I decided what I like is helis so my next target shop is maybe a predator max, I'be been told to buy a Raptor 50 but I rather go with a more stable more capable heli. what do you guys advice??

Thought on going on a bigger electric but I think is very expensive the first buy uhh??

thanks

GTX SlotCar

I keep coming back to this picture. I really like it. Wish you had a higher res version.
I've got a few streams and brooks around my house. This Spring I may try to get some pictures flying over the water in a wooded setting.
Have you got any more like this, Dennis?

Skiddz

Pitch curve is messed up. Sounds like you're overpitching and dragging the motor down. The red light on the 4-in-1 is telling you the motor is working too hard. The bigger the blade's "bite", the more power is required to maintain rotor RPM. You've got too much "bite" going on..

Does the motor get hot?

With trim and throttle both full down, blade pitch should be 0 with the mode switch in "normal". You'll need to pull the pitch links to adjust it all. Before you tweak anything, disconnect the motors, turn on the Tx and the 4-in-1. Let it initialize and then begin your adjustments. Move all sticks and trims to the center position and verify all the servo arms are "level" (i.e parallel to the frame) and the swash plate is also level - adjust links if necessary to level the swashplate. The top of the swashplate should be about a 1/2" from the top of the main shaft. Get that set and then set the blade pitch.

If I've thoroughly confused you, check out bdavisons Blade CP rebuild thread.. It'll walk you through the head setup step by step.

Good luck!

MoNKEyZQ8

My Feedback: (2)

I got my plasti-blades, but my 4in1 is fried.. wooooo

RamboSmurf

Thanks. Blade pitch was off. The motor never got hot, normal warm. Now it lifts at about 1/2 throttle and holds pretty stable. I do experience a drop in rpms and alttitude when applying right aileron, not left. Normal? It also sometimes wants to go to foward flight really quick. Its still a stock Heli, Batt and flat bottom blades. One time it will hover fine, then the next time I have to fight to keep it under control. I can't say its all pilot error, because it seems as though every now and then it gets a wild hair up its butt and wants to do whatever it wants. I also have a Blade CX and I can fly it everyway with no problems. Are these heli's that skittish? Again, thanks to all for the help.
RS

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Remember, when checking your main blade pitch, you need to hold the swashplate up, to make up for slop in the servo's and linkages, or you could possibly end up with negetive pitch at low throttle settings.