Anybody using thier own transmitter with a stock Blade ?

In reference to the battery. the most efficent way to charge a lipo is to hook it directly to an A/C outlet. but you must find a way to regulate the voltage input and something that will let you know when it is done (take trip to radioshack). because the best way to charge a lipo is with constant current, and the chargers out there do not do that. But with the chargers that are out there it would not hurt to hook your lipo up and charge more. Because the chargers shut off charging when the voltage has drop below a certain number that is programmed into the charger, or a time limit has been reached by the charger. on to the gain question, the gain helps stabilize the tail, and if you turn it down, it will be easier to swing it around with less effort. do it gradually until you get used to it, or to the point where you want it. but you should be able to fly figure 8's regardless. and to use your ouwn transmitter you might have to use the 2 in 1 mixer unit that eflite sells. and then use your own receiver.

my sister has a wall charger that has variable volts. It has a four-way connector that allows for very low voltage to over 12 volts. Her piano she hooks it up to requires a 9 or 11 volts and the wall charger has regulator switches for various volts. It would be great to get one of these and hook it up to a lipo charger, then you'll have a constant 12V flow without any cut-offs. I noticed than when I have my lipo charger to my 12v battery, once the battery runs out, the chargers doesn't allow the battery to charge anymore since there is no more power.

you could probably use the wall charger, but once again, you would have to rig some sort of device to know when the battery was at capacity. there are a couple of people that frequent my store that have made such devices from parts from radioshack. but use at your own risk if your not sure what you are doing. and maybe try it on a cheap lipo, and not an expensive one. the way a lipo charges is buy charging one cell fully and then moving on to the next one and so forth until all cells in the packs are charged. but on the new generation of TP lipos they give you the extra wires to charge each cell independently, just like on some Tanic packs and other higher end lipos. I spoke of constant current being used to charge the lipos, lipos also discharge in this manner, that is why they have no memory like other batterys. and on that same note, that is why they are the favorite batteries for brushless motors. the constant current is a good match for the way that a brushless motor is actuated by the brushless speedcontrol. because unlike a brushed motor the speed is not varied by how many volts you put into it.

Just finished making the canopy my own. I also bolted a CF battery mount underneith. I'm using the radio shack fasteners to keep the battery. holds tight in flight but releases well if you hit hard. Takes up the impact and reduces damage. Note the new bell hiller.

Here's one of the battery mount.

Sorry the pics were so small...here's one bigger too.

heh you don't even want to see mine, I used milkjug, broccili rubber band, regular rubberband attached to a small 4-5in CF rod.

Ok guys,

I got tired of flying the blade around on that stock tx, I want to have some fun with this little bird, but I want adjustable pitch curves, throttle curves, revo mixing, revo mixing....DID i mention revo mixing.... etc.

So I went and bought a 9CSuper with a synth module. Im working on trying to program this thing to work with the blade.
Have any of you done this with a 9C?

Ive figured out that I have to use SR-3 swashplate mixing, and then -50% the ail Swash AFR, because e-flite reversed the ailerons....sneaky little**** , It took me about 4 hours to figure this one out. Went throught the manual about 3 times before it made sense. Had to stop at 4 hours, to recharge the TX so I could finish programming it.

Ive flown a flight on it in normal mode. Works fine, Gotta get the idle ups programmed in there now.

edge540ts

I did as badvision recommends with one exception I either fliped it over or turned around. I can't remember exactly but it worked like a champ, no ratchet what so ever!

I have tried creating a profile on my 9c with no success. can you possible post the programming details?

thanks alot jet and bdavision for the info.... so if my weights are all the way in it shouldnt cause a problem then? being that im gettin into the inverted thing i will prolly take some of the blame. i could have been to heavy on the stick action, but i all happened so fast i thought it got hit by a small iraky missile..(hell no it wasnt pilot error!) but my main question is about the weights....are they where they should be?

gonna start walkin on my hands till my heli is fixed!

So far this is what I got.
(Program this first, BEFORE you turn on the helicopter...otherwise, it's liable to go shooting through the roof or some other odd catastrophy)

Pick swashplate style "SR-3"
Reverse the aileron ch 1 and throttle ch 3
Goto the Swash AFR menu, and change the AIL to -50% (if its at +50%(default) the ailerons will be backwards)
There are 5 points on the Pitch Curve.
For Normal mode (eg no idle-up)
1. 0.00%
2. 13.5%
3. 15.0%
4. 20.5%
5. 37.0%
This pitch curve is pretty close to the one in the stock radio.
Dont go over 37.5% on the 5th point, or the swashplate will bind. You can set the middle ranges how ever you want them for personal preference.


This is as far as Ive gotten. You should be able to fly it on these settings, but bear in mind that the trims maybe out of wack, and the gyro proportional may not be set right. If you find that even with full right proportional on the gyro the heli still spins, try reducing either the pitch in the pitch curve, or the throttle in the throttle curve settings. Unlike the stock radio set-up, Ive found that the helicopter is capable of producing FAR more torque and thrust than the stock set-up, which is a good thing....I think. Im working on the gyro and revo mixes right now, and trying to figure out how to set up the idle-up's.
You may also have to take the servo arms off the servos and reset them to center.

I accept no responsibility if these dont work for you. Bear in mind these are like the beta version of the programming. So there may or may not be errors in there.

Once I have the final version with all the stuff programmed correctly, Ill post it up here.

thanks very much!!

I had have had the same qliching problem with my BCP. I have tried the antenna in multiple configurations with no resolve. I called HH on their tech support number they recommended trying new crystals, I called my LHS and am picking them up today. Will post results once i can test

No problem 50nickles, and no the weights should not cause any ill effects besides making the cyclic control different. I for one have had my weights removed for sometime now, and fly it fine. hopefully futura will let me try out his bell hiller head (it would be appreciated). as far as the glitching problem, the only thing i know about that is the blade will have glitching problems if you are running a 3cell lipo on a 10 tooth pinion. or you could invest in a hobbico frequency scanner, just to make sure there is no interference.

I bought my blade a couple of weeks ago, and i love it i just had a few questions. I bought a super brain 969 charger, but i'm not sure what to set everthing to. I tried to set it to the best that i could, but it seemed to not work like it did before. Now i get like 5min of flight time before i could get at least 10-15 min. I was just wondering if anyone had and suggestions for me. And if anyone knew what i should set my charger to i use the stock NI-MH 8 cell battery that it comes with. Any information would be greatlly appricated.

I have both E-Flite and E-Sky for sale at here:
http://runryder.com/helicopter/p1573461/#p1573461

If interested, shoot me an offer. Thanks.

yuo need to dishcarge all the way and charge all the way do this a couple of tiumes the reason for this is ni mh will get build up a memory so if you dont run it all the way down then and charge to peak batt performance then it will start to buuild a memmory you can set the cahrger around 1.2 -1.5 on the battery setting and just follow instruction if you dont have them you can down load the manual of the net but go to lipos 11.1 1320 later

Nimh batteries do not have the memory like a nicad does. and the best way to charge the nimh is to charge the battery just before use, or your voltage and mah will drop off depending on how long you leave them without use. you cannot leave them laying around charged like a lipo. and check your charger to make sure that you are charging with enough juice, ortherwise your charger may be timing out before it's charged.

Just bought the Blade CP and finally hovered after I fixed a couple minor issues, but may help others. The 4 in ! was not attached with the cheap 2 sided tape they use at the factory. it was bouncing around freely. It was a lot more stable after affixing it properly. The Velcro supplied for the battery suffers from the same low quality adhesive also contributing to an unstable condition. Now that those two issues are fixed I can keep a decent hover going. You might want to check yours. So far I am pretty impressed considering it was the first time I've ever flown anything. I suggest you Go slow and easy, and find a nice large area to practice on.

I have bean using the DD tail mod for a long time.
I finally burnt out my last motor and had to go back to the original motor and tail blade. I took it outside today to try it out, now I remember why I changed to the DD tail. It had severe tail wag and when turning hard the tail would almost stop spinning. This got me to thinking That maybe I could take some material off of the trailing end of the blades, and thereby taking some load off of the motor.
I scribed a line 2mm along the trailing end and cut along the line with a pair of scissors. Fired her up and alot less tail wag. Cut another .5 mm And tried it again, even better. each time i cut more material off of the blades there was a significant tail motor increase in speed. It's 9:00 pm will have to wait until tomorrow to try it outside.

Has anyone else tried this? Your input is much appreciated :

The dragonfly II uses a DD motor setup stright out the box I believe. It uses a gws EDP-3020 prop. That's what I have on mine, I'm also using the DD motor they use on their heli. The part # for that DD tail motor is GWS CN12RXC. I haven't tried it yet cause I just got it so I'll have to post results later. I did after about a week get some photos on the installation of the new 3bb blade grips.

I did order the 3bb grips and got them in last week. I didn't know that you had to order bearings also so I have not used them yet. I am ordering bb's this week.

Crusader: I trimmed my rear rotor when I got the Blade as a suggestion of the LHS heli pro. From the center of the hole for the shaft to the furthest most point on the blade it measures 65mm instead of the stock 73mm. I can let go of the left stick in a hover but it is a little different when flying. On a turn it is just a little sluggish or slow to react so I am going to try another one a little longer to see if that makes a difference.

It says in your manual,

"For faster charging or charging from various AC/DC power sources, we suggest the purchase of a high quality
peak detection battery charger capable of charging Ni-MH battery packs at a rate of 0.8 amps (800mA). This will
allow you to charge the included battery in approximately 45 minutes or less. We recommend the E-flite Pinnacle
Plus (EFLC2020) AC/DC peak prediction charger."

So I just set my super brain to 0.80 amps. Been working fine.