E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
#1352
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From: Portsmouth, NH,
Mine can lift 2.5oz (extra) stock. In needs a fresh battery and is a big sluggish. I hope to upgrade to LiPoly soon and will attempt to use my Blade-CP for video then. My first attempt was very shakey. I have a 200mw 2.4GHz Tx, KX-141 CCD camera, converter and 150mah 8.4v battery. I tried to share the 9.6v NiMh battery but lost too much head speed. I replaced my shaft and balanced my blades back out today and will take another crack at it.
I would guess with a LiPoly setup my video system will be no problem for the blade, and I can cut the weight of the 8.4v battery by sharing the LiPoly. I should be set up with LiPoly after Christmas.
Here is my shakey first attempt...
[link=http://s93421871.onlinehome.us/BladeCPOnBoard.wmv]Blade-CP OnBoard Video[/link]
Steve
I would guess with a LiPoly setup my video system will be no problem for the blade, and I can cut the weight of the 8.4v battery by sharing the LiPoly. I should be set up with LiPoly after Christmas.
Here is my shakey first attempt...
[link=http://s93421871.onlinehome.us/BladeCPOnBoard.wmv]Blade-CP OnBoard Video[/link]
Steve
#1353
A great way to upgrade to brushless is to use the very small board made by Mr.RC-CAM called the "PowerZone". It costs about $30.00 + postage. I use it with a Himax 2015-4100. This gives me plenty of power. Search www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430386 thread for Mr.RC-CAM he designed this board for the Horizon P-51 and F-27 Stryker and Blade users have found it to be a cheap and safe way to convert the main motor to brushless. Next I will add an additional one for the tail. Also look up RCgroups thread # 434477 fkor more info.
#1354
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From: St. Simons, GA
I was flying my Blade over the holidays and after putting in a fresh battery I had a huge reduction of power. It would hardly maintain a hover. My first thought was the motor finally had died but I switched the motors and had the same problem. Then I thought it might be the battery so I charged the other with the same results. I then switched the motor into another helicopter that I had been using as a spare. It flew fine hovering slightly above mid-stick. I checked the mesh between the motor and the gear and made sure the gear was not rubbing anything. The previous flight was fine no crash or hard landing. It has been a while since my last crash. I was hoping that someone would have some thoughts. I am flying the nine tooth motor with a thunder power 900mAh
#1356
ORIGINAL: ckoelliker
I was flying my Blade over the holidays and after putting in a fresh battery I had a huge reduction of power. It would hardly maintain a hover. My first thought was the motor finally had died but I switched the motors and had the same problem. Then I thought it might be the battery so I charged the other with the same results. I then switched the motor into another helicopter that I had been using as a spare. It flew fine hovering slightly above mid-stick. I checked the mesh between the motor and the gear and made sure the gear was not rubbing anything. The previous flight was fine no crash or hard landing. It has been a while since my last crash. I was hoping that someone would have some thoughts. I am flying the nine tooth motor with a thunder power 900mAh
I was flying my Blade over the holidays and after putting in a fresh battery I had a huge reduction of power. It would hardly maintain a hover. My first thought was the motor finally had died but I switched the motors and had the same problem. Then I thought it might be the battery so I charged the other with the same results. I then switched the motor into another helicopter that I had been using as a spare. It flew fine hovering slightly above mid-stick. I checked the mesh between the motor and the gear and made sure the gear was not rubbing anything. The previous flight was fine no crash or hard landing. It has been a while since my last crash. I was hoping that someone would have some thoughts. I am flying the nine tooth motor with a thunder power 900mAh
Thats a new one I have never encountered?? You might want to check all motor connections, check the output voltages from the 4-1 even replace the main motor wires and connector. thats where I would start.
#1357
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From: Alta Loma, CA
All right guys and gals, I tried installing the helihobby aluminum swashplate tonight and discovered the balls on the swash are a bit larger than the stock unit and won't fit the stock links. Is there a tool that will enlarge the sockets slighly? Or do I have to buy different sockets?
#1359
ptgarcia,
Thats just great, I to just got the aluminum swashplate and haven't installed it yet! I thinka call to Helihobby in next. I'll bet we will have to get another size connectors.
Thats just great, I to just got the aluminum swashplate and haven't installed it yet! I thinka call to Helihobby in next. I'll bet we will have to get another size connectors.
#1360
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From: Alta Loma, CA
If you call tomorrow please let me know what you find out. I'm expecting a pretty hellacious day tomorrow at work after being off 2 days for the holiday and doubt I'll get a chance.
#1361
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From: Portsmouth, NH,
paveodie,
I will post my second (crash) video tonight. The good news is I got over the roof line, the bad news is I hit a tree. Nice video though, right up to the tree... Once I got over the roof line I found that there was more wind than I thought.
I get my video stuff from www.blackwidowav.com. I am using a 200mw brown-bag system on my blade. A 50mw system would probably do the trick, I know he has one on the website. My setup kind of expensive for this kind of thing, but I already had it from my fixed wing video experiments. I need to figure out a better way to mount the camera to reduce vibration and protect it better. There are a bunch of inexpensive 2.4Ghz all-in-one systems that would probably work well on the blade, but I don't like the video quality I get with CMOS cameras (most of the cheap setups are CMOS).
That one tree broke my landing gear, my tail boom, my tail rotor and broke one of the balls off my bell-hiller head (from a HoneyBee CP2). I fixed it all but the head last night... I have to wait for a part on that one.
Steve
I will post my second (crash) video tonight. The good news is I got over the roof line, the bad news is I hit a tree. Nice video though, right up to the tree... Once I got over the roof line I found that there was more wind than I thought.
I get my video stuff from www.blackwidowav.com. I am using a 200mw brown-bag system on my blade. A 50mw system would probably do the trick, I know he has one on the website. My setup kind of expensive for this kind of thing, but I already had it from my fixed wing video experiments. I need to figure out a better way to mount the camera to reduce vibration and protect it better. There are a bunch of inexpensive 2.4Ghz all-in-one systems that would probably work well on the blade, but I don't like the video quality I get with CMOS cameras (most of the cheap setups are CMOS).
That one tree broke my landing gear, my tail boom, my tail rotor and broke one of the balls off my bell-hiller head (from a HoneyBee CP2). I fixed it all but the head last night... I have to wait for a part on that one.
Steve
#1362
ORIGINAL: ptgarcia
If you call tomorrow please let me know what you find out. I'm expecting a pretty hellacious day tomorrow at work after being off 2 days for the holiday and doubt I'll get a chance.
If you call tomorrow please let me know what you find out. I'm expecting a pretty hellacious day tomorrow at work after being off 2 days for the holiday and doubt I'll get a chance.
CNE259 Metal lightweight swashplate-C $35.95
CNE216 Anti-rotation bracket-FP $2.25
You will need the Anti-Rotation bracket because the Swashplate is longer at the point in front and this won't interfere with any other function of the swash. You will need to use your Dremel tool to remove part of the old bracket, don't worry its easy. As another point I also ordered as Autorotation main gear and main shaft. I have installed these on both my Blades and it makes a big difference. The gear is slightly thicker and it give the motor gear more to bite into. I use a 9 tooth gear. You will have to remove and trim the metal hub on the tip of the gear hub and drill a new hole in the shaft to match the dimensions of the blade/Esky shaft but again that is an easy thing to do. One of the advantages of this Autorotation setup is if you bend the main shaft you only need to pull the lower pin and remove and replace the shaft without taking apart the whole helicopter. When you throttle down after landing the rotor bladed continue to rotate just like the big ones do. You simply ether wait until they stop or gently press the top center hub to slow it down. THe start up and shut down also takes the pressure off the teeth of the main gear. I have had no stripping of the teeth since I made this upgrade.
The part numbers are:
CNE250 Autorotation W/gear & hub-FP $17.95
CNE313 Main shaft $ 6.95 (I bought several but wouldn't you know it I have never bent a shaft since)
I will post pictures of this Mod.
Don
#1363
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From: Alta Loma, CA
ORIGINAL: oppie
I went down to my cave (as my wife refers to it) and looked for the invoice to get Helihobby's number and low and behold I didn't buy it from them I got mine from Helicopter-World. I then tried the connectors and they fit! Sorry I guess what ever you bought was not the correct one for the Blade /Esky. maybe you can return it and contact Helicopter-World at www.heli-world.com. Here are the part numbers I used:
CNE259 Metal lightweight swashplate-C $35.95
CNE216 Anti-rotation bracket-FP $2.25
You will need the Anti-Rotation bracket because the Swashplate is longer at the point in front and this won't interfere with any other function of the swash. You will need to use your Dremel tool to remove part of the old bracket, don't worry its easy. As another point I also ordered as Autorotation main gear and main shaft. I have installed these on both my Blades and it makes a big difference. The gear is slightly thicker and it give the motor gear more to bite into. I use a 9 tooth gear. You will have to remove and trim the metal hub on the tip of the gear hub and drill a new hole in the shaft to match the dimensions of the blade/Esky shaft but again that is an easy thing to do. One of the advantages of this Autorotation setup is if you bend the main shaft you only need to pull the lower pin and remove and replace the shaft without taking apart the whole helicopter. When you throttle down after landing the rotor bladed continue to rotate just like the big ones do. You simply ether wait until they stop or gently press the top center hub to slow it down. THe start up and shut down also takes the pressure off the teeth of the main gear. I have had no stripping of the teeth since I made this upgrade.
The part numbers are:
CNE250 Autorotation W/gear & hub-FP $17.95
CNE313 Main shaft $ 6.95 (I bought several but wouldn't you know it I have never bent a shaft since)
I will post pictures of this Mod.
Don
I went down to my cave (as my wife refers to it) and looked for the invoice to get Helihobby's number and low and behold I didn't buy it from them I got mine from Helicopter-World. I then tried the connectors and they fit! Sorry I guess what ever you bought was not the correct one for the Blade /Esky. maybe you can return it and contact Helicopter-World at www.heli-world.com. Here are the part numbers I used:
CNE259 Metal lightweight swashplate-C $35.95
CNE216 Anti-rotation bracket-FP $2.25
You will need the Anti-Rotation bracket because the Swashplate is longer at the point in front and this won't interfere with any other function of the swash. You will need to use your Dremel tool to remove part of the old bracket, don't worry its easy. As another point I also ordered as Autorotation main gear and main shaft. I have installed these on both my Blades and it makes a big difference. The gear is slightly thicker and it give the motor gear more to bite into. I use a 9 tooth gear. You will have to remove and trim the metal hub on the tip of the gear hub and drill a new hole in the shaft to match the dimensions of the blade/Esky shaft but again that is an easy thing to do. One of the advantages of this Autorotation setup is if you bend the main shaft you only need to pull the lower pin and remove and replace the shaft without taking apart the whole helicopter. When you throttle down after landing the rotor bladed continue to rotate just like the big ones do. You simply ether wait until they stop or gently press the top center hub to slow it down. THe start up and shut down also takes the pressure off the teeth of the main gear. I have had no stripping of the teeth since I made this upgrade.
The part numbers are:
CNE250 Autorotation W/gear & hub-FP $17.95
CNE313 Main shaft $ 6.95 (I bought several but wouldn't you know it I have never bent a shaft since)
I will post pictures of this Mod.
Don
On a side note, my Blade has developed a problem with just quiting in mid flight. Its a complete power failure of some sort. I can see the light on the 4-n-1 go out and the heli just drops to the ground. Luckily I still suck and I'm only 5 feet off the ground, so nothing breaks. It usually happens within 10 seconds after lifting off. It doesn't happen while on the ground. I may need to take a trip to the local hobby shop also.
#1364
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From: Alta Loma, CA
Okay, just got off the phone with Nicky at Helihobby and she said the swashplate should be a direct replacement. She says its possible the one I got was built incorrectly or is the wrong one all together. They are going to send a new one today and ask that I return the one I have once it arrives, which should be tomorrow.
And I did notice I'm supposed to use a new bracket also, so I'm going to order that today.
Finally, I went to the hobby shop on my lunch break and it seems my e-Flight 1200mAh lipo was labeled wrong and I have been flying with power conming from the charge lead and have been charging through the power lead. I'll fix this issue tonight, and in the meantime fly with the 1320mAh Thunderpower I picked up while there.
And I did notice I'm supposed to use a new bracket also, so I'm going to order that today.
Finally, I went to the hobby shop on my lunch break and it seems my e-Flight 1200mAh lipo was labeled wrong and I have been flying with power conming from the charge lead and have been charging through the power lead. I'll fix this issue tonight, and in the meantime fly with the 1320mAh Thunderpower I picked up while there.
#1365
Pauly,
I guess stranger things have happened I use Thunder Power 1320s. Looks like Helihobby is going to take good care of your situation.
If you don't use the new bracket the swash plate will be in a bind.
Today while flying in the garage my Blade jumped into the air and got real wild and as luck would have it I was able to get control in time to land safely. It turned out to be the 4 in 1 crystal was loose. The 4 in 1 red light came on and stayed on until I discovered the problem. I am trying to learn head in flying. It is just like starting over from scratch. I can do everything else but the head in[
]. It will just take practice. Winter is now setting in in KC and I have to fly in the garage.Good luck with the Swash plate.
Don
#1366
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From: Alta Loma, CA
ORIGINAL: oppie
Pauly,
I guess stranger things have happened I use Thunder Power 1320s. Looks like Helihobby is going to take good care of your situation.
If you don't use the new bracket the swash plate will be in a bind.
Today while flying in the garage my Blade jumped into the air and got real wild and as luck would have it I was able to get control in time to land safely. It turned out to be the 4 in 1 crystal was loose. The 4 in 1 red light came on and stayed on until I discovered the problem. I am trying to learn head in flying. It is just like starting over from scratch. I can do everything else but the head in[
]. It will just take practice. Winter is now setting in in KC and I have to fly in the garage.
Good luck with the Swash plate.
Don
Pauly,
I guess stranger things have happened I use Thunder Power 1320s. Looks like Helihobby is going to take good care of your situation.
If you don't use the new bracket the swash plate will be in a bind.
Today while flying in the garage my Blade jumped into the air and got real wild and as luck would have it I was able to get control in time to land safely. It turned out to be the 4 in 1 crystal was loose. The 4 in 1 red light came on and stayed on until I discovered the problem. I am trying to learn head in flying. It is just like starting over from scratch. I can do everything else but the head in[
]. It will just take practice. Winter is now setting in in KC and I have to fly in the garage.Good luck with the Swash plate.
Don
#1367
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From: Portsmouth, NH,
Here is my crash from yesterday afternoon. My compression is a bit high on these videos, the original looks better.
Steve
[link=http://s93421871.onlinehome.us/BladeOnBoard2.wmv]Blade CP On Board Crash[/link]
[link=http://s93421871.onlinehome.us/BladeOnBoardDV2.wmv]Blade CP On Board Crash (Higher Resolution)[/link]
Steve
[link=http://s93421871.onlinehome.us/BladeOnBoard2.wmv]Blade CP On Board Crash[/link]
[link=http://s93421871.onlinehome.us/BladeOnBoardDV2.wmv]Blade CP On Board Crash (Higher Resolution)[/link]
#1369
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From: pasco, WA
i got a bcp today and can hover it 1st try....shakey but hovering none the less. i bought a walkera 22e first and thought that i was not gonna be able to afford to learn to fly, but the bcp is a very good heli from what i have seen......i would recommend it to anyone and would say stay clear of walkera until you are comfortable enough to set up a heli all on your own cause rtf from them is a big fib.
#1370
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From: Flowood, MS
Cool Video! I've been flying helicopters for years and still can't fly! To all of you who wonder if the Blade is worthy.....it's a cool piece of machinery. It's not designed for the beginner, but it's a good little machine to learn on. Use your training gear, take your time and you will have lots of fun. I've learned a great deal from having to rebuild this unit.
I think we all are trying to fly in our front yards as evidenced by the video. This heli needs some room to really fly. It's fun to hover and pirouette in the drive way but flying takes a small field to do it safely. Happy flying.....just my two cents!
I think we all are trying to fly in our front yards as evidenced by the video. This heli needs some room to really fly. It's fun to hover and pirouette in the drive way but flying takes a small field to do it safely. Happy flying.....just my two cents!
#1371
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From: 5000 ft ASL,
CO, US MINOR OUTLYING ISLANDS
I apologize if this has been covered already, I couldn't find it.
Here's my problem: I run a 3 cell Lipo, flat blades, 9T motor. I have the tail gain maxed on the 4 in 1. The rudder trim is full right. And even with that, I still have to hold about 1/3 right rudder stick at all times. It's driving me nuts and hindering my progress. What to do?
Thanks..
Here's my problem: I run a 3 cell Lipo, flat blades, 9T motor. I have the tail gain maxed on the 4 in 1. The rudder trim is full right. And even with that, I still have to hold about 1/3 right rudder stick at all times. It's driving me nuts and hindering my progress. What to do?
Thanks..
#1373
ORIGINAL: bankman64
I think we all are trying to fly in our front yards as evidenced by the video. This heli needs some room to really fly. It's fun to hover and pirouette in the drive way but flying takes a small field to do it safely. Happy flying.....just my two cents!
I think we all are trying to fly in our front yards as evidenced by the video. This heli needs some room to really fly. It's fun to hover and pirouette in the drive way but flying takes a small field to do it safely. Happy flying.....just my two cents!
You are right about the blade will preform much better in an open area. I learned to hover first in my garage then in my lower level family room and when I took it outside in an open area I really saw what a good flying machine the Blade was. With open space you don't have to worry about hitting every thing in site. This little helicopter really wants to fly! So go find a small park or go to your flying club field and you will really gain more experience
#1374
ORIGINAL: slagburn
I apologize if this has been covered already, I couldn't find it.
Here's my problem: I run a 3 cell Lipo, flat blades, 9T motor. I have the tail gain maxed on the 4 in 1. The rudder trim is full right. And even with that, I still have to hold about 1/3 right rudder stick at all times. It's driving me nuts and hindering my progress. What to do?
Thanks..
I apologize if this has been covered already, I couldn't find it.
Here's my problem: I run a 3 cell Lipo, flat blades, 9T motor. I have the tail gain maxed on the 4 in 1. The rudder trim is full right. And even with that, I still have to hold about 1/3 right rudder stick at all times. It's driving me nuts and hindering my progress. What to do?
Thanks..
Something you might check is your 4 in 1 unit sitting snug in it's mount on the front of the heli? If it is cantered slightly the gyro will try and compensate.
#1375
slagburn,
It it is not the placement of the 4&1 and if it is the motor you should look into going to a DD diregt drive tail motor. There are posts on this as well as rcgroups.com. Just do a find
Good luck.
Don
It it is not the placement of the 4&1 and if it is the motor you should look into going to a DD diregt drive tail motor. There are posts on this as well as rcgroups.com. Just do a find
Good luck.
Don



