[quote]ORIGINAL: stimpsonjcatt

Horizon CNC Swashplate Problems

Also, if any1 has any pics of their setup showing your neutral horn positions that would be a big time help to.

Scott,
Here are some pics of my two blades and the servo horn positions, I hope it helps. Also you can see my brushless motor set up with the MR RC-Cam board.

I love it!!! "Blades in Bagdad" ... Thats the best job in the world, Enlisting RC Models to defend our country!!! The biggest model shop in the world and paid to fly em!!!

Hey Kwesdog; keep up the good work over there and keep safe. All work and no play. Great Vid

Does someone know what pitch the main blades should be when the heli first initializes?
I had to switch to a new airframe and followed bdavidson's thread instructions, but after that I can't get even enough lift at max collective to get off the ground. According to the thread the blades should be parallel with the flybar, but to get off the ground I need to crank those pitch links at least 3 turns beyond to increase the main blade pitch enough to get off the ground at all.
I figure I must be doing _something_ wrong since when I do crank the pitch up enough to lift off the helicopter seems sluggish and unresponsive (I had been hoping it was b/c the head speed was too low b/c the pitch was too high, but cranking the pitch down kills all my lift).

rc world international's ebay store has nice looking fuse's that look like they might work on the blade.... hughes 500, apache, and bell 222, for around 25.00....... if anyone has tried any of these please let me know if they fit nicely....

grosporina,

After you initialize you should be at 0 pitch. If you've increased your pitch and the heli doesn't have much lift then you may have increased too much. At too much pitch the motor will bog down and your head speed will be too low. Your range in normal mode is 0 deg to 10 deg. In idle up its -10 deg to 10 deg. Hope this helps.

Thanks Oppie
Just what I needed, Have parts on order. Nice brushless I'll get info on that later.
James

Anyone know if this could be made to work without much modifications? Sorry if posted already, I've only read upto page 15 so far.

hummingbird titanium shaft Main gear
One Way with Titanium Shaft and Main Gear

http://www.helihobby.com/html/dragon...tml#PARTIP5897

Ok, then my heli has other issues.
With it adjusted for zero pitch at idle there is absolutely no lift, not even enough to get light on the skids. It's a brand new airframe and brand new motors but old 4-in-1 and old servos and two old battery packs.
Neither of the batteries has been used for more than 30 flights, is it possible they're both dead at the same time? It seems pretty unlikely they'd both die at once... In the space of about 2 flights it went from flying great and having loads of power to barely being able to keep in flight for 30 seconds and fighting for tail control.

Oppie
On the dd tail motor are using 3c li-po and if so will this motor take this voltage without any resistors or?
Thanks James

James, I am using 3c lipos 1320mah and the motor I im using comes with a resistor. It is the motor with the Grey colored end caps. The motor is rated for greater amps. Check out this site as Helihobby www.helihobby.com/html/blade_helicopter.html has everything you would need. So you might next ask how do I get the original tail bracket off?? First start with a little CA debonder and be patient wait ten min or so. Then twist and turn is this won't do the trick and chances are it won't then use you dremel with a cut off wheel and cut parallel to the main boom on both sides. You don't have to cut all the way down to the boom just enough so then use a large flat bladed screw driver and twist inside of the cut area you have prepared. Lastly be sure and clean off the debonder as it is oily before CA'ing the new one on. One more thing before you CA it pull the wires through and add 1.5!QUOT! to the motor wires then before you place the new tail bracket on carefully position the 4in1 end of the wire to the 4in 1 to be sure you have the wire long enough to reach the 4 in 1. after the tail bracket is mounted the wires are to difficult to pull. So do the wire thing before you CA anything. I learned this the hard way. I also mount the new motor to the bracket with the heat sink so it is fitting good and the heat sink fins will cut your wires if not set right. Don't let all this frighten you it will all come together. I have broken mine many times learning to fly these things and if you are not crashing your not learning to fly!!!
Good luck and let me know how you do.
Don

James, The motor is a GWS and here are the specs on it. I'm not sure that it is shown on the Helibobby site. http://gwsparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=265
Don

I don't think that's a resistor soldered across the motors on theses helis. I believe it's a capacitor to reduce electronic interference.

Ya I was wondering what they were talking about! as FAR AS i know, they ARE CAPACITORS, i've never heard of using resistors...As far as the added voltage from lipo, well the 4 in 1's esc regulates the voltage to the tail motor based on gyro input and stick input , it's not a preset voltage. And if Horizon sez it's ok on 3cell lipo, I'm sure it can handle the volts![8D]

wrenflyer82,

be careful about which scale fuselage you buy for a BCP. Most of them weight 9oz. That 255 grams. My BCP is 70 - 80 grams heavier than stock and though it flies really nice, the added weight shows itself quite noticably. I can't emagine adding 255 grams without a bl 2015 4100 or 3600. I haven't done a scale job on my BCP for this very reason but after putting a scale 222 fuse on my shogun and considering the drive trane upgrades I had to do......a $25 fuse is going to be just the beginning of your expense list. Not that its a bad Idea, believe me, I'm tempted big time.....its just going to cost a bit more than $25 to get it flying right.

hey kwesdog,im an 82d airborne vet,glad to hear from you.maybe when you index that mission you can teach me how to fly this damn thing.lol.if you need anything over there pm me.seriously...anything.were behind you 100%

I am having a problem with my blade cp. I give it full throttle and it will not lift off of the ground. I checked the pin that holds the rotor head on and it is fine. The other day it just sat there and all of the sudden it rapidly jumped off the ground??? I haven't attempted to fly it since. Any help would be appriciated.

R/CNerd,
Thanks for info. I should have checked where the AAA Energizer batteries are made before I solder the pack. I assumed that they are also made in Japan since somewhere I read that Energizer batteries are Sanyo. I just checked the batteries I soldered together for Blade CP previously and confirmed that they are all made in China.

My reply is late because I was too busy to check this forum during last week. I also thank you for the cheap battery back info. Unfortunatley last week I decided to migrate to Lipo and now I am happy with that (was too disappointed with my home made NIMH battery pack with Energixer). But still that is a great deal.

I bought a E-Blade CP last saturday (12-03-05). I had it hovering by the end of the weekend by using Radds school of rotary flight, I had a few blade strikes (trimed the X-Mas tree, hehe) but alway turned the throttle off just before strike. I noticed the main motor was changing rpms on me while hovering mid last week. I purchased heat sinks after reading the first 20 threads on this forum thinking I was overheating the brushes. I have made no other mods exccept hot glue to fix landing gear due to a few rough landings. (with training gears).

This friday I put heatsinks on and started to hoover, my Blade would not lift (blade would spin,low rpm's). I re-armed thinking the 4-1 may have glitched. Fixed!! She took off and I was practicing a 3' hoover trying to stay in a 5' square. Two minutes into my hoover the main rooter stopped and my blade dropped like a rock, broke my skid, frame and bent main shaft. When I walked up to Blade to look at how much hot glue I would need my eyes started to water and the heli smelled like burnt wire. My tail motor still works but main will not, if I reverse motor inputs the main will work. After a week of reading forums I figured it was the 4-1.

I called my LHS and they called Horizon. They stated I needed to send my whole kit back for trouble shooting. They said a 4-1 has never fried in mid flight. I believe I have read of a few in other forums. I have been with my LHS for 10 years and asked if we could
due somthing else like a 4-1 swap, they said Horizon wanted all parts.

Loaded the RV and visited family for weekend, took my Heli cause family wanted to see the E-Blade. Found a big hobbie shop (Tammies) and showed them my dead toy. They stated if I bought it from them they would have replaced my 4-1 for free and sent the bad one to horizon. they stated Horizon did not need the whole heli and that they have seen this a few times. they stated Horizon was good at standing by their product with them though they due sell 20 plus heli's a week.

Does anyone know what happened and is there a way I can keep my heli and just send in the 4-1 (cheaper and less risk of lost product). I saw a few horizon employee's on this forum in earlier postings. Don't take this as a bash on Blade cause I love it and plan on santa getting a cx for one of my boys. I have been in the RC world for a lot of years and have no problem buying parts that I brake, I just can't see $60 for a part that is less than 15 battery's old and have never had a prop strike with throttle on.

Thanx,
Corey

Just letting everyone know I have successfully done loops without losing altitude, rolls, and fully inverted flight. This morning I just did my first inverted turn!!!! However then i pushed the battery and ended up crashing All this was possible after I upgraded the swashplate, for some reason it gave me more of a pitch range, and I could stay inverted afterwards. I'm not using brushless or the DD tail or anything, just a 900mah Lipo and the 10 teeth motor. For some reason the tail twitches no matter what I do when i use the 9 tooth. When I fix it up I'll try and take some videos!

Does anyone has any ideas where I might look to troubleshoot the problems my heli's having?
After well over 50 flights one day it just suddenly lost a heap of power and became very difficult to control the yaw. It happenned within about two flights. Everything was fine then one morning I took it out to fly and it couldn't hold the yaw rate steady at all and it seemed like I had to have the collective way higher than before just to hover.
Because of the tail I thought I might have finally burnt out my tail motor, and since I had an airframe replacement I transplanted the 4-in-1 and servos over to the new airframe (making reference to bdavidson's assembly thread) but the problem is still there.
What's more when I do hover I have barely any cyclic authority, it's very very sluggish responding especially to roll commands.

I thought I might have the blade pitch off leading to a head speed that was either too high or too low, but if I decrease the main blade pitch any I can't get off the ground even at full collective/throttle and if I increase it more than 2 half turns of the pitch links I can hear that the head speed's too low as it struggles to overcome the extra torque when it does fly.

I've been using the same two NiMh battery packs for at least the last month, and I did have the helo in my trunk for a few hours at about zero C, is it possible that it's actually the batteries that have both crapped out because I froze them, or is there maybe a problem with the 4-in-1? After a full charge I still get around 8-10 minutes of flight out of each of the battery packs.

I've spent several flights tweaking the main blade pitch back and forth and checked that there's no binding when I hit the extreme ends of the collective and cyclic commands. When it does hover the helicopter itself is still fairly stable, I can leave the cyclic alone for a few seconds before I need to put in corrective input, but it's just so unresponsive it's very difficult to control compared to before and I'd swear that it has a tendency to pitch forward a bit when I try to roll in one direction, where it didn't before.

I love this little thing and was just starting to get warmed up with some real flight, any help would be appreciated.
THanks

Has anyone tried the CNC frame and boom assembly found on HeliHobby's site? I'm in the market for a new frame and like the aluminum idea but I noticed that where the two rear servos mount there is a large "gap" where as the original frame has them mounted right next to each other. It looks like the "gap" would affect the geometry between the servos and swash. The anti rotation bar looks a little "iffy" as well, but I guess they figure the torque is only going one way anyhow. I'm wondering if it would be good buy or not. ;I'm tired of doing a complete tear down and swap for new frame just because the boom mount breaks and nothing else.
I went a long time without crashing while doing fast forward with steep and stall turns, now I am trying slow backwards flight ......... HolyCow.... Like learning to fly it all over again..... Too many years of fixed wing in me. Back to the sim. Happy flyin' everybody

gros,
I had a simular problem on mine but it happened after a little hard landing & what I found is that the main shaft on the big gear was actually spinning inside the "hub" in the center of the big gear and only friction & a small portion of the retaining pin (inside the hub) was turning the blades. When I set her down a little hard everything upstairs tried to go down stairs through the big gear if you know what I mean. There was only a slight crack visable in the hub but I replaced it & the problem was solved.

Dont know if this is your problem or not but might be worth a look see

Thanks, I'll take a closer look, though I doubt that's it since the problem migrated to the new airframe so all of that is brand new.

>>>
I checked and that's not it, no actual damage visible to any of the mechanics.
A friend suggested maybe it's just the cold affecting my batteries. I'm flying in my garage, which tends to be around 0 C and sometimes am flying after the helo's been in my car trunk in sub-zero temperatures for an hour or two. THis is a tough one to make a call on, since my home's a bit too small to fly around in.
I've read a few threads elsewhere about NiMh batts performing sub-par in cold conditions, perhaps I should finally crack out the LiPo and give it a spin...

futura,

any words on performance and fit of that landing gear from HeliDirect?

Joe