He's asking about the upcoming Blade CX. This is a totally different heli, fixed pitch, counter-rotating blades. It's geared towards the beginners. The Blade CP was never intended for beginner use, E-Flite assumed that people who had heli experience would be getting them. Well that wasn't the case for the most part, and they had NO IDEA it would take off (pun intended!) and become this popular.

The upcoming Blade CX is designed for people who don't have heli experience. The Blade CP is a more difficult to fly chopper, because it is more capable, aerobatically and aerodynamically. The Blade CX is a MUCH more stable and easier to fly heli because of those counter-rotating blades. It's a fixed-pitch machine so you won't be able to do much more than basic flight, hovers, yaw.... But I think it's a great starting point for getting into helis. Not only is it less expensive and cheaper to fix (rotor blades are plastic and only $4 for a set of 4), but it takes a lot of the stress out of learning to fly helis. Granted, once you go to a cyclic pitch, single-rotor heli it will be harder to fly, but you will have a nice head-start with your Blade CX experience.

We've got several on order at the shop I work at. They're due in December, when they come in and if we get a demo unit I will be more than happy to update you all about it.

Opps, my mistake...DarkWombat.....what he said!!

acinsp1
I've got the same play in that pin myself. The head started out tight but has developed that bit of play with flight time and couple of blade strikes. It does not, however, seem to affect flight that I have noticed.
While I have yet to install them myself, I've seen fins others have installed on their micros. Some of carbon fiber and others of various plastics. CF's definately looked the best. According to them, it improved tracking in ff. I'm going to install them myself if I ever get around to it.
Mark

Heres a couple of pics of my tail fin, its made out of Clear plastic then painted and secured with a tie wrap....I`ts been to windy to try it outside...But I`ll be sure to let the thread know if it helps in FF.

autoeject,

This particular Heli only has 5 full NiMh flights on it without any blade strikes at all....still original out of the box...it has looped a few times but mostly basic sport flying...I think it had play at the pin since day one.

heres my vertical stab. ....also made a small horizontal to go with it....

boostcrzy, Whats it made out of and how did you attach it...got anymore closeups? I like it better than mine!!!

In any case, I haven't noticed any problems with that play. Also, I see that gws makes some fins that snap onto the tail boom

Iis there a website for those fins?

its made from the plastic of a prestone anti-freeze bottle and attached with a yellow zip-tie....lol....had to keep it yellow!!........

hey all I was wondering if any one has had problams with the stock battery. I seem to be losing power and the flite times are less. It will hover but it seems I am putting in a lot more collective then before. also if I punch it the heli wiil not shoot up I can hear the blades chande pitch but that seems to bog down the motor.

I get maybe 5-6 minutes of hard flying,loops,rolls, fast and slow piroettes after a 2.5 hr charge, as soon as I hear the blades working harder...its time to land...I will be getting the aerobatic upgrade next week with a couple of TP1320`s...this little bird is too much fun!!! I like that it can all be done in my backyard or garage if its too windy.

General Question?
What Gyro are you using to go seperate on the Blade?

What about the gyro, mixer, esc unit from GWS would it work?
Part#: PHA-01

I have been flying my blade cp for about 3-4 days, and it hasnt had any problems until now. The 4 in 1 control unit is always sending 10v out of the port where the main motor plugs in. Causing the main motor to always turn. Is this a problem that can be fixed, or is do i need to by a new 4 in 1?

Are you sure you are in normal mode instead of idle up?

yup im positive the switch is in normal mode and usually if its not the controller wont arm, but even if it isnt in normal mode it still just takes off when i plug it in. []

Futura,

I picked up the parts you listed for the head upgrade (Bell-Hiller) for my Blade. Any chance you could post a picture of the linkages? I don't have any info on the Honeybee...

Steve

I'll try and get some closeups posted but until then I think I can tell you....maybe:

The bell hiller head adds two pitch levers to each side of the head block. these arms (probably some tech term..but) have a long side and short side with the fulcrum in the center attached to the head block. These act as pitch levers and the long corse threaded metel linkage arms go from the balls on the long side of the pitch levers to opposite sides of the swash plate. the short linkages (no metel or threads) go from the short side of the arms to the ball links on the blade grips. the long stock blade cp linkages go from the flybar control frame to the swash just like stock except the ball link for the new frame (bigger to fit the new pitch levers) are on the inside instead of the outside.

make all the threaded linkages equal length and instal before pinning the head to the main shaft (I found it easier to install all ball links to the head first). When tracking the blades, disconnect the links from the swash, not the head because the new pitch levers are rather delicate. I didn't break one or anything but don't want you to either. In any case it seemed easier to get to the swash ball & link for adjusting.

....hope that helps.

Only pics I have right now I posted earlier in this thread....here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_30...37/key_/tm.htm

I saw them at the LHS. Helihobby also has some cf fins that 'look' good. Don't know if I'm crazy about CA'ing them on though.

capstone hobbies by any chance?

[:@][]


I bought an e-flight blade cp rtf i followed the manual and i was going to take it off then the blades both of them flew off and one of them hit me in the leg and now i have a huge bruse on my leg
i just hope it is a manufacture defect or i will have to pay for it to get fixed.[:@]

well It looks like it's from China which is generally not a good sign in batteries, and aaa cells kinda well, suck for high drains like 370's etc over 2 amps, plus the stock charger is a unsafe battery destsroying piece, so it's likely your batt is losing capacity. Hey I only used my stock batt a coupla times maybe I'll sell it, if you want. A good option if you dont want to go lipoly is a pack made up of shorter fatter cells, which tend to work better, maybe nicad 300 -350 mah 7/8 cell, can be found for like $15.00 but of course flights would be shorter. Lipo is the way to go. when you cosider that the freakin thing will fly your rig 4 times as long as your old battery, the fact that the price is double could be seen as a bargain!

dude......whoa! Are you saying that you never crashed or messed with it and the blades both shot off at the same time on its first flight? let us know what happens.

I need some good advice here guys....I just bought my first LiPo battery (I know, I`ve always been a slow learner) it`s a 3 cell Thunderpower 1320. It has 2 main leads and a 4 pin Balance connector. I called Thunderpower to confirm that it`s charged and discharged through the red and black leads. It doesnt have a connector yet, so this is my question...The Blade CP uses JST connectors, Would it be a good idea to just solder a male JST onto the battery, or install the small ultra dean on the Heli and on the battery? I`m hoping to also use this battery in my foamie so I will need to standardize. What are most of you using as far as connectors and Lipos on your BCP`s? I will be picking up a Triton this weekend, so I`m sure There will be alot of questions in the Battery & Charger Forum. What kind of flight times should I expect? and what`s a good rule of thumb to quit flying before I discharge below the 9.9 minimum?
Tanks!!!

The Deans micro are good, the JST are ok but a little weak both electrically and mechanicaly. I use the full size Deans just because I like them and use them for anything bigger than a Speed 300, even though the're total overkill. My BCP goes about 15-20 min on a 1050 lipo hovering only. You don't have to charge through the 4-pin if yyou do not have the proper equipment/conncetor, but it is better. Some packs only have one set of leads. Buy a lipo guard device with a light or beeper for your voltage. You will however notice it flies poorly a little wile before it dumps but you may think it's pilot error. have fun