E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
#2201
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From: TRF,
MN
ORIGINAL: Fuel1212
Hey all this is a glorious day.....I got my blade back together after taking head assembly off and adjusting swashplate settings. Now I know some of you are saying big whoop, but I am a newbie and very happy
. Too make matters even better it flies, well kind of here are my questions : 1.) I never had the sticky problem before bud it seems to be a little jumpy any ideas on why? 2.) How much pitch should be on the paddles of the flybar, or does it even matter? Thanks all so much I love this place.
Hey all this is a glorious day.....I got my blade back together after taking head assembly off and adjusting swashplate settings. Now I know some of you are saying big whoop, but I am a newbie and very happy
. Too make matters even better it flies, well kind of here are my questions : 1.) I never had the sticky problem before bud it seems to be a little jumpy any ideas on why? 2.) How much pitch should be on the paddles of the flybar, or does it even matter? Thanks all so much I love this place.
Nice site with useful information
[link=http://www.bladecprepair.com]Blade Repair[/link]
#2202
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From: Wappingers Falls,
NY
Use 3x of those round lithium batteries (#2032) in series. Each one is 3v and will give you 9v. This will eliminate the extra weight of the 9v battery.
ORIGINAL: djdavidcp
Catfight,
I got the camera for $75 from here:
http://www.raidentech.com/24ghzmiwicoc.html
I used a 9V battery, but I have the camera right under the 4 in 1.... I'm going to move things around a bit, make a mount, and get a higher gain antenna for the receiver, then it should work better. I just went oustide and shot a quick video, and I'm not all that pleased with the results. But I should be able to make it work with some tweeking.....
Here is the outdoor test... Mostly a view of my Observatory
http://www.dougsuniverse.net/images/BCP_Outdoor.wmv
Doug
ORIGINAL: catfight
Doug,
I tried the same thing but my video was not as clear as yours. What camera are you using and did you use a separate 9v. batt or heli battery?
Thanks
Doug,
I tried the same thing but my video was not as clear as yours. What camera are you using and did you use a separate 9v. batt or heli battery?
Thanks
I got the camera for $75 from here:
http://www.raidentech.com/24ghzmiwicoc.html
I used a 9V battery, but I have the camera right under the 4 in 1.... I'm going to move things around a bit, make a mount, and get a higher gain antenna for the receiver, then it should work better. I just went oustide and shot a quick video, and I'm not all that pleased with the results. But I should be able to make it work with some tweeking.....
Here is the outdoor test... Mostly a view of my Observatory

http://www.dougsuniverse.net/images/BCP_Outdoor.wmv
Doug
#2204
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From: Springfield,
MO
ORIGINAL: toprudder
One of the blades is on upside down (backwards). Either that, or the blade grip has flipped over.
ORIGINAL: 1LO64
Can't really tell but the blades appear to be on backwards
ORIGINAL: tagg
]
THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP GUYS! IM SURE ILL HAVE MORE ?'S
HMMMM! WHATS WRONG WITH THIS PICTURE?
]

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP GUYS! IM SURE ILL HAVE MORE ?'S
HMMMM! WHATS WRONG WITH THIS PICTURE?
#2205
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From: Greeley, CO
This is a puzzling problem to this neophyte...how can it be: tail rotor not spinning, but when I spin-up, the tail rotates in the same direction as the rotor. Left rudder will do nothing. Cyclic towards the 5 o'clock position seems to help. It doesn't do this all the time. Half the time it acts like the RADD doc suggests. I posted this elsewhere and have had a suggestion that this might be somewhat normal?? I don't think so. Applying more throttle causes acceleration of tail rotating in same direction as rotor. I'm still doing the Battery One exercise in RADD:
I'm new to RC helis, but have piloted the real machines in the past. I'm using the RADD method of learning, and am having a strange problem. It seems as though Newton's law on reaction has been violated in my BCP. When I add power, per the laws of physics and the RADD school information, as the blade turns clockwise , looking top down, upon applying power, and with neutral trims and cyclic, the tail boom should attempt to rotate counter- clockwise . (Indeed it does some times.) Frequently though, the tail boom goes in the same direction as the main rotor as I smoothly apply power. I have neutral or left rudder applied and no effect. If I add a bit more power, supposedly breaking inertia and creating some more torque, the tail actually accelerates in the same direction as main rotor rotation...scarey. I've tried to compensate with cyclic, and working it towards the 5 o'clock direction seems to help, when applied at spin-up.
The thing that bothers me is that it seems somewhat intermittent. I may be able to practice Battery One a bunch of times, with the tail responding properly and use of right rudder stabilizes the torque OK. Then I might take a break and when I plug the battery back in and try another round, I may run into the problem with the tail rotating clockwise with the main rotor.
I'm thinking I might be a bit nose heavy on the CG, and perhaps, the left front skid is acting as a pivot in some fashion, as I apply throttle on spin-up. Being a newbie here, even with a bit of physics and rotorcraft understanding, I thought maybe some folks in this forum may have seen this problem with the Blade CP...any ideas?
Thanks in advance for all the fine sharing and participation that goes on here...BIG fun!
I'm new to RC helis, but have piloted the real machines in the past. I'm using the RADD method of learning, and am having a strange problem. It seems as though Newton's law on reaction has been violated in my BCP. When I add power, per the laws of physics and the RADD school information, as the blade turns clockwise , looking top down, upon applying power, and with neutral trims and cyclic, the tail boom should attempt to rotate counter- clockwise . (Indeed it does some times.) Frequently though, the tail boom goes in the same direction as the main rotor as I smoothly apply power. I have neutral or left rudder applied and no effect. If I add a bit more power, supposedly breaking inertia and creating some more torque, the tail actually accelerates in the same direction as main rotor rotation...scarey. I've tried to compensate with cyclic, and working it towards the 5 o'clock direction seems to help, when applied at spin-up.
The thing that bothers me is that it seems somewhat intermittent. I may be able to practice Battery One a bunch of times, with the tail responding properly and use of right rudder stabilizes the torque OK. Then I might take a break and when I plug the battery back in and try another round, I may run into the problem with the tail rotating clockwise with the main rotor.
I'm thinking I might be a bit nose heavy on the CG, and perhaps, the left front skid is acting as a pivot in some fashion, as I apply throttle on spin-up. Being a newbie here, even with a bit of physics and rotorcraft understanding, I thought maybe some folks in this forum may have seen this problem with the Blade CP...any ideas?
Thanks in advance for all the fine sharing and participation that goes on here...BIG fun!
#2207
So, your tail blades aren't spinning at all, but the heli rotates in the same direction as the main blades. Is it off the ground when this happens? Maybe check the bearings on your shaft? Could they be binding up sometimes? I know, it's a long shot.
#2208
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From: Beaufort,
SC
marvm,
Gyros will trick you :0) At least that is what I think you are experiencing. If you even bump them while plugging in the battery or bump them as you skid or fly around- they can collect bad information which provides bad results- imcorrect tail movement. These gyros are pretty sensitive to that - I noticed this same behavior when I was bouncing around on my garage floor :0) Do you have training gear? If so , get it up off the ground! :0)
By the way, the tail rotor will spin slower if you want the nose to go to the left- it may even stop- until the torque is enough to swing it around in the same direction as the blade is spinning. Of course nose to the right requires more tail motor speed.
I hope this helps - it confounded me for a while!
Good luck
Gyros will trick you :0) At least that is what I think you are experiencing. If you even bump them while plugging in the battery or bump them as you skid or fly around- they can collect bad information which provides bad results- imcorrect tail movement. These gyros are pretty sensitive to that - I noticed this same behavior when I was bouncing around on my garage floor :0) Do you have training gear? If so , get it up off the ground! :0)
By the way, the tail rotor will spin slower if you want the nose to go to the left- it may even stop- until the torque is enough to swing it around in the same direction as the blade is spinning. Of course nose to the right requires more tail motor speed.
I hope this helps - it confounded me for a while!
Good luck
#2210
I just got done flying off a pack on the Bell-Hiller upgrade and while I've not yet had the chance to do any acrobatics with it (snow on the ground... Cold... Windy...) I was able to hover it in the house and get a good feel for it.
First impressions of the upgrade kit...
It's very nice. I really like the fact that everything is together and comes with 6 ball bearings, 4 shims, 2 blade grips fully put together, and the spindle. The only thing that was missing that I thought was kinda odd was the hex nuts that the screw goes into that holds the blades on. Other than that it's very nicely put together.
Installation was easy. Just remove the old one and it litterally pops on in a matter of minutes.
Here's where the quality of the components comes in. With the old 2bb grips that I had on it with my woodies. Once I had them both set to 0 degrees at mid stick in idle 1 I would have to add about 1 full turn of pitch on one of the blades to get them to track. Not this time. I set both to 0 pitch with the new setup and then spooled it up to track. It tracks perfectly with both blades at 0 degrees in idle up pretty much through the whole gamut of stick movement. I was litterally shocked.
So how does it fly. Wow I am glad I didn't have this on the heli when I was learning. I would never have been able to hold a stable hover. I had to add in about -65% expo on the aileron and elevator to get the heli to respond as it did before the upgrade. The slightest stick movements without the expo just jerk it around. It's very precise. I can't wait to take it out to the field and turn off the expo and yank it around. This thing will be rockin. For indoor hovering though I STRONGLY recommend (if you have a computer radio) that you tune it to around -60% to -65% expo.
I'm jazzed. A lot of the slop went away that I had in the head as well but the flybar slop still remains. I really need to replace the rotor head and center hub to get rid of that slop. It's in the mounts for the bearings in the rotor head. Those things wear out SO quickly.
Overall for those that are ready to move into acrobatics I give this upgrade a 10 out of 10. Amazing. Not for newbies...
First impressions of the upgrade kit...
It's very nice. I really like the fact that everything is together and comes with 6 ball bearings, 4 shims, 2 blade grips fully put together, and the spindle. The only thing that was missing that I thought was kinda odd was the hex nuts that the screw goes into that holds the blades on. Other than that it's very nicely put together.
Installation was easy. Just remove the old one and it litterally pops on in a matter of minutes.
Here's where the quality of the components comes in. With the old 2bb grips that I had on it with my woodies. Once I had them both set to 0 degrees at mid stick in idle 1 I would have to add about 1 full turn of pitch on one of the blades to get them to track. Not this time. I set both to 0 pitch with the new setup and then spooled it up to track. It tracks perfectly with both blades at 0 degrees in idle up pretty much through the whole gamut of stick movement. I was litterally shocked.
So how does it fly. Wow I am glad I didn't have this on the heli when I was learning. I would never have been able to hold a stable hover. I had to add in about -65% expo on the aileron and elevator to get the heli to respond as it did before the upgrade. The slightest stick movements without the expo just jerk it around. It's very precise. I can't wait to take it out to the field and turn off the expo and yank it around. This thing will be rockin. For indoor hovering though I STRONGLY recommend (if you have a computer radio) that you tune it to around -60% to -65% expo.
I'm jazzed. A lot of the slop went away that I had in the head as well but the flybar slop still remains. I really need to replace the rotor head and center hub to get rid of that slop. It's in the mounts for the bearings in the rotor head. Those things wear out SO quickly.
Overall for those that are ready to move into acrobatics I give this upgrade a 10 out of 10. Amazing. Not for newbies...
#2211
Guys, he said his tail rotor isn't spinning when this happens, so it can't be spinning the wrong way, plugged in backwards, spinning too slow or too fast, or have a bad bearing. But since it's not spinning, the heli should be spinning in the opposite direction of the main blades. His heli is spinning with it as if his tail blade was spinning too fast, but it's not spinning at all. This would seem almost impossible.
#2212
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From: Greeley, CO
Freaky tail behavior...
Gary: Thanks for the observation. I probably didn't explain this weird anti-Newton problem very well. When it does work right, it's as prescribed by Newton: rotor clockwise, torque causes tail to go counter-clockwise, unless some tail motor fanning is done. I think CatFight is onto something. At least, that might explain the random or intermittent-ness of the problem. And, it does seem like it changes state (works or doesn't work right) after I've unplugged the battery, rested a bit and plugged it in again. I'm going to watch how I handle this featherweight sweetie whilst plugging in the battery. Stay tuned and Thanks for all the input...
Marv Miller
Gary: Thanks for the observation. I probably didn't explain this weird anti-Newton problem very well. When it does work right, it's as prescribed by Newton: rotor clockwise, torque causes tail to go counter-clockwise, unless some tail motor fanning is done. I think CatFight is onto something. At least, that might explain the random or intermittent-ness of the problem. And, it does seem like it changes state (works or doesn't work right) after I've unplugged the battery, rested a bit and plugged it in again. I'm going to watch how I handle this featherweight sweetie whilst plugging in the battery. Stay tuned and Thanks for all the input...
Marv Miller
#2213
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From: Rome,
PA
I just installed the BH upgrade on one of my blade cps. Installation was not a problem and the package even had printed installation information. I had a problem with getting lift off at first but i used the new e-flite pitch gauge and resolved that problem. Then the heli started to go into porpose mode. After being stumped for a while, I put on safety glasses and rotated the heli main rotor with out lifting off. I then saw that during higher speeds one of my servos would make slight upwards movements without any stick imputs. So I changed out that servo and it resolved that problem. Does anyone in this forum have any expeirence with rebuilding or rewiring the S-75 servos. It looks to me that the blade CX is using the same servos.except for the control lever. I flew the BH upgrade and really like how fast the heli now responds. I do agree that this upgrade would have been to much when I first starting learning how to fly because it is very sensitive. i cant wait until the weather clears so I can try this outside with my carbon fiber blades and lipo set-up. I would like to see more information on rebuilding servos and how to test and adjust them. I will buy new ones but it would be nice to be able to fix them in a pinch.[:-] Enjoy your new BH upgrade
Randy
The Thrill of flying is greater then the sound of crashing!
Randy
The Thrill of flying is greater then the sound of crashing!
#2214
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From: Laplata,
MD
I just installed the new BH upgrade on my CP and all I can say is---WOW!! These sure make this little heli SENSITIVE! The instaliatation was easy. My next upgrade is going to be the new landing struts. The originals are super weak, I've gone through three sets in three months. How much is the E-flite pitch guage? Does it come with a level?
#2215
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From: Washington, DC
I just got an email from HeliHobby, saying the CNC frames are back in stock. Good timing, as I just broke my main frame again. Was trying slow pirouttes (sp?), and lost it when it was comming around from nose in. Works great in the simulator, but real life is just a little different.
Ordered one of the CNC frames, ASAP like. Can't wait!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I also have recently installed the bell upgrade (along with the exisitng hiller head), makes it bell-hiller (thats what i undertand atleast). Man oh Man is it more sensitive. Reacts like NOW!
let you all know the results of the new CNC frame.
Ordered one of the CNC frames, ASAP like. Can't wait!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I also have recently installed the bell upgrade (along with the exisitng hiller head), makes it bell-hiller (thats what i undertand atleast). Man oh Man is it more sensitive. Reacts like NOW!
let you all know the results of the new CNC frame.
#2217
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From: Shasta Lake,
CA
Have you guys had any experience with the full CNC aluminum head? Durability? Parts availability? Is it worth it? Also, I have been trying to get the Esky version of the Bell-Hiller head and it has been out of stock for a long time. Helihobby finally has most of the parts except for the link rods, but now their price has doubled!!! Does anyone know the best place to get these parts?
#2218
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From: Washington, DC
ORIGINAL: L0stS0ul
Good luck with it. I've heard nothing but bad things about that frame.
Good luck with it. I've heard nothing but bad things about that frame.
Damn. I had not heard those things. What exactly did you here?
crashn)_
#2219
It's heavy, the servo placement is off, massive glitching from the frame, the list goes on and on. I'd have to go back and find the posts but there was a discussion about it a while back most likely on RCGroups or Run Ryder
I have heard nothing but good things about the CNC head they make. You can get it for cheaper from RC-Expert though and RC-Expert stocks all of the parts. Apparently that is a really good upgrade if your going to spend the money.
The E-Sky head just went through another revision. I've not seen the new version though which I believe is version 4. The blade looks like it was based off version 1 of the head. The version 2 head I believe was the first Bell-Hiller head. The version 3 head was the one we've all seen so many times. I've not seen pics of the version 4 head yet. That might be why the price went up.
Balsa Products looks to have most of the head parts in stock... I've ordered tons from them. Great company with fast shipping.
http://www.balsapr.com/view.asp?id=V019752
I have heard nothing but good things about the CNC head they make. You can get it for cheaper from RC-Expert though and RC-Expert stocks all of the parts. Apparently that is a really good upgrade if your going to spend the money.
The E-Sky head just went through another revision. I've not seen the new version though which I believe is version 4. The blade looks like it was based off version 1 of the head. The version 2 head I believe was the first Bell-Hiller head. The version 3 head was the one we've all seen so many times. I've not seen pics of the version 4 head yet. That might be why the price went up.
Balsa Products looks to have most of the head parts in stock... I've ordered tons from them. Great company with fast shipping.
http://www.balsapr.com/view.asp?id=V019752
#2222
ORIGINAL: sfinckster
Have you guys had any experience with the full CNC aluminum head? Durability? Parts availability? Is it worth it? Also, I have been trying to get the Esky version of the Bell-Hiller head and it has been out of stock for a long time. Helihobby finally has most of the parts except for the link rods, but now their price has doubled!!! Does anyone know the best place to get these parts?
Have you guys had any experience with the full CNC aluminum head? Durability? Parts availability? Is it worth it? Also, I have been trying to get the Esky version of the Bell-Hiller head and it has been out of stock for a long time. Helihobby finally has most of the parts except for the link rods, but now their price has doubled!!! Does anyone know the best place to get these parts?
#2223
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From: Rome,
PA
CWSTUFFT,
The Pitch gauge cost me $11.95 from wholesaletrains.com from NY. It does not have a spirit bubble level, but works fine for the money. In response to RCCCONTI have the cnc alum frame from heli hobby and have had some problems. It is heavy and generates glitches I think from time to time. The double tailmotor frame is rock solid in a hover. The alum tailboom is longer then the fiber one and can cause blade strikes if you pull backwards real fast. I have not given up on it and it seems to work good with Carbon fiber main rotor blades. I have purchased the plastic main frame and skids from heli-direct that RBCCONT is showing in his third picture. I will try this and will see how it works. I also notice that almost everyone is using the alum swashplate with the BHiller upgrade. Maybe the alum CNC frame needs some special sheilding around the wiring which may generate noise and cause glitches. Let me know how it works for you pilots that have purchased it.
good Luck and have fun,
Randy
(the thrill of flying is greater then the sound of crashing)
The Pitch gauge cost me $11.95 from wholesaletrains.com from NY. It does not have a spirit bubble level, but works fine for the money. In response to RCCCONTI have the cnc alum frame from heli hobby and have had some problems. It is heavy and generates glitches I think from time to time. The double tailmotor frame is rock solid in a hover. The alum tailboom is longer then the fiber one and can cause blade strikes if you pull backwards real fast. I have not given up on it and it seems to work good with Carbon fiber main rotor blades. I have purchased the plastic main frame and skids from heli-direct that RBCCONT is showing in his third picture. I will try this and will see how it works. I also notice that almost everyone is using the alum swashplate with the BHiller upgrade. Maybe the alum CNC frame needs some special sheilding around the wiring which may generate noise and cause glitches. Let me know how it works for you pilots that have purchased it.
good Luck and have fun,
Randy
(the thrill of flying is greater then the sound of crashing)
#2225
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From: Shasta Lake,
CA
Thanks zooland! They do have good prices there, but unfortunately are out of stock on the pitch control rods just like everybody else. I don't know why that is.... I guess I will just have to wait awhile. I am very impatient. I almost bought the CNC head yesterday. But I refrained from hitting the buy button with all my might. I really can't afford it, but I want it real bad!



