(Electricadam),
It is a really fun hobby for both young and old. I have the BCX and the BCP and I like both of them. They both have operating and maintenance work and cost. The both have pluses and minuses .The good news is you will learn a lot of things mechanical and learn flying skills. It took me several weeks of flying and sometimes breaking things to learn the BCP. Even though the parts are not very costly they do add up. My wife is afraid to fly the BCP but can fly the BCX which after she gets more flying time she may be ready for the BCP. This is not a hobby for anyone who does not have patience or resolve to be an RC heli-pilot. Sometimes you spend alot of time working on your heli instead of flying it. I find the BCX is great for flying inside in tight areas, it is fun to follow behind it and fly from one room to another and then back again. The blade CP is much more powerfull and harder to fly when you are first starting to learn rotary flight, but is more capable once you learn to fly it without crashing it to often. maybe you could find someone who has the CX ,or the CP and go talk to them and maybe they could show you in person what each one can do. Either way you should have alot of fun what ever you decide.

(reiffron),
Thanks for the information on rebuilding servos. You shared some really good tips, and Iwas wondering if new wires can be soldered on to the unit, some of my servos have been chewed up by crashes. Have you used any testing equipment to check adjustments ETC.
Thanks again Randy

( the thrill of flying is greater then the sound of crashing )

Heli Direct usually has had the linkages in stock if not. I just use the pitch linkages (EFLH1151) that are on the regular head for the short linkages and for the long ones get an align linkage set (HS1034T) comes with small medium and long lengths. Use a set of the ball link ends from the same pitch set from the regular BCP head screw them on to those long linkages and your good.

Hey

How are you guys doing. I seen it on a previous page but i cannot remember which one. LOL Does anybody know the thread or hyperlink to the online instructions. I need to take apart my blade grips so i can replace my control arms.

I am considering getting a bell hiller head and a aluminum swashplate and doing everything at once. Does anybody have any reccomendations on these considering setup and installation. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Scott

Here's the link.

http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/Su...rodID=EFLH1100

Hi
Anybody know why it will work on an 8u and not a 9z

Hey slotcar, I'm new to this. Is this working?

Yes, but not well. Thanks to the help I received here, I did get it to work. It's not set up right, though, and wants to really scoot out of control. I just have to find the time to read the manual and set things up right. In normal mode I have negative pitch at 0 throttle and I want neutral or slight pos. pitch. I also have to figure out the pitch knobs on top of the Tx. That may cure my problems. I don't have trouble with them on my DF 36, but that's a lot easier to set up.

As far as I know it will work with the 9z too. Making sure it's set to PPM would be my only question.

I have just finished installing every thing new in my blade (had the worst crash yet!!) I installed a new frame, main shaft and gear, all new head parts, new blue swash plate, new carbon blades, new tail motor and tail rotor. I used BDavidsons setup page and now I have a gyroscopic action going on about 30 seconds into the flight!!! I have remesured the fly bar for centering ( I thought that would be the problem). I balanced the blades prior to install aswell as used a blade pitch gage to set up the pitch. I just don't know what would be the problem now. Any suggestions?

I absolutely love the Hiller upgrade. Being a newbie (got mine Christmas) I was afraid that it would be too responsive and hard for me to control - it turned out to be the opposite. It is now so stable that I can easily hover as long as I care to in my tiny den right in front of the TV. It used to be so slow to respond that I would usually get into an un-recoverable situation and have to land or crash it.. Now, just a slight request to move immediately translates into movement so it ends up staying pretty much right where you want it to. Outdoors, I can now hover it up to 50 ft w/ decent confidence. I used to get real nervous at 20 ft.

I screwed the pitch links all the way down and out about 3 turns and I put one of the spacing shims on each side.

Hey everybody. Im a noob and I just had my first blade strike today. Now it doesnt want to get off the ground even at full power. Is it the pitch or did I break it already. The only thing I saw wrong with the blade was the paint was off. Need help please. Thanks

Pavelow58

Thanks for the link. Actually there is another link in this thread a ways back that has detailed pictures on the assembly of the blade.
Does anybody know what page it is on or where i can find it at.

I think I am going to go with the aluminum swashplate, the new landing gear and the bell hiller head. I figure i might as well just rebuild the whole thing while I am at it.

Thanks Scott

bladecp.lenshouse.net
AND
http://www.bladecprepair.com/

Anyone try this frame (and boom) ??

Bladecp, not honey-bee

http://www.fxaeromodels.com/product_...410dc9cd8cb266

Or this one

http://www.helihobby.com/html/blade_helicopter.html

From what I've read it's a little heavy and can cause glitches in the electronics. Haven't tried it myself so I'm just relaying info.

Are you getting any unusual vibration? You may have lost the metal weight from the blade. If not just check your balance, pitch and tracking. There is no paint on the rotors so what you "chipped" is the protective plastic coating. You need to put a piece of tape over the crack to reseal it. Then you have to balance the pair again. An easy way to check the balance is with a homemade balancer. You can look at my pics and see what I mean. You should always check after any crash.

Thanks, But I already got a cp w/ training gear. I had my bro. trim it out and he handed me the sticks, I did great. I have already had 7 packs through it, and although I cant keep it in a very steady hover, i can keep it flyin. Thank you, ELECTRICADAM

I have this frame. Got it last friday. Was reall excited. Took it home, 2 hours later, all wired up and ready. start to throttle up, and wham, INTERFERENCE CITY. Now, i was warned about this (not by helihobby, but others on this forum), but it was still a bummer. Another 1 hour to go back to my plastic frame.

I'm running seperates:
BladeCP Air Frame
Futaba 7CHP
Electron 6 Receiver
EFlite 2&1 Mixer/ESC
GWS PG03 Gyro
3 HS55 Servos
Aluminum Swash
Bell Mixer Upgrade
Sym Wood Blades
TP 1200 and 1320 3S Lipo's

I wanted to try the 2 motor tail frame. But after using this for about 10 flights (no crashes), BOTH MOTORS BURNED UP AT THE SAME TIME!!!!!!!!!!. Still using the mount, but with only One motor. Those were the first TR motors that I have ever burnt (100+) flights, so I consider myself lucky. Just too bad it was both motors at the same time. Have the RC-Expert CNC head on the slow boat from china, but will let you all know how it goes.

I may use a buddies Berg 6 with it, to see if it cuts down on the interference. Also will try some ferrite loops, to see if that helps. Might also try a CF tail boom, instead of the aluminum to see if it works. Also, the superskids will NOT work with the alum frame, the alum frame's skid mounting is different angle and width from stock. bummer all around.

DONT BUY IT IS MY OPPINION. which is a real bummer, as i was really looking forward to the extra strenght.

Ahhh, I gave you a link to the manufacturer's online instructions. Sorry about that.

Bdavison's Blade CP build thread in the electric forum might have what you seek.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3131294/tm.htm

there is also

http://www.bladecprepair.com/

I wish there was a way to alphabetically catalog all of the various how-to threads and keep them grouped together.

I posted earlier about how my collective seemed to change suddenly when hovering, rotor speed would suddenly drop but not much change in altitude, I finally noticed that my blade tracking would suddenly go out of whack which apparently caused the rotor speed to change. Someone suggested that my ball links may be binding. I upgraded to alum swash and bell/hiller and the problem is gone, very solid feel.

Do ball links have tendency to cause binding as a result of wear? If so, would applying graphite powder to them help?

The answer centers on the average particle size of the graphite powder you select. If its too large, that could actually make things worse. I would want to make certain I knew what I was doing.

On the other hand, this guy seems to have had some luck with it.

http://www.hornet-heli.com/cgi-bin/b...c;f=3;t=000270

I wish I could be more help than this. Someone else will probably reply soon with more information.

PaveLow58

http://www.heliguy.com
http://www.dream-models.com/eco/showItAll.html
http://n.ethz.ch/student/mmoeller/fms/index_e.html
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.m...rc.helicopter/
http://www.rcgroups.com
http://www.runryder.com/
http://www.bladecprepair.com
http://www.rc-cam.com/

http://www.uavforum.com
http://www.steadicopter.com/
http://autopilot.sourceforge.net/
http://www.neural-robotics.com

http://www.joker-usa.com/

http://www.futaba-rc.com/faq/index.html
http://www.futaba-rc.com/glossary
http://www.futaba-rc.com/glossary-9z.html

I have noticed that the spindle gets bent, real easy like. I thought for a while you could only get it in the Center Hub & Spindle Set: BCP
EFLH1145 ( http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=EFLH1145 $9.99 ), but have found (and for some reason, doesn't come up in the bcp stuff), is the EFLH1143. Spindle only, was 4.99 at the LHS).

Also, since the alum frame is c**P so far, i think i will try the http://www.heli-fever.com/product_in...roducts_id=128. That with some cf rod and the alum (or maybe dd) tail, and you can save some $$ replacing the frame. Which, IMHO, is the weak point. Why, oh why design it so it has all this neat releif work that makes it WEAKER. Just mold the back as one solid piece, maybe $0.00000005 cents more plastic (or something like that). You know what i mean, solid. And put a darn holding screw in there.

crashn_

Who makes that lipo battery alarm that has leds??

something's up with my tail motor. sometimes my heli is behaving exactly how i want it and the tail is in check. at other times, it seems like too much juice is geting to my tail motor and it's hard for me to trim out and no matter what i do to the gyro and trim, it runs on the high side. then the next time i try it, say the next day, it's back to normal. any ideas what to check for? is this a common prob with the tail motor? i have a honeybee, running 11.1v, maybe 20 packs on the heli. thanks.

I got my from this guy
[link]http://www.tjtrc.com/[/link]