fossoman

Here's what I did when the battery lights are flashing red and green. Before you plug the charger into the wall or hook the alligator clips up.(whichever) Plug the battery into the charger the red light will come on then plug the power adaptor into the wall or Hook up the alligator clips to the power source whichever way you are using it. This worked for me but the battery will never be as strong as it was before. Its best to run it only a few minutes like 2 or so Then charge it again try this two or three times and you will probably gain run time but it will never be like new. And I wouldn't expect to get even ten minutes run time. I usually run my cx for five minutes or less then check the heat of the battery slightly warm is ok approching hot is Not Good.
These batteries are protected by a circuit board on each cell and there is little chance of a fire. Not Impossible but unlikely.

fossoman

You have boggled my mind with your intense technical Jargon. No offense intended. I understand the Mosfett concept but would they even work in series like that. I don't think anyone has bothered to tear one of these motors apart seems like a lot of work I Just buy new ones when they get weak. It would be great to find a more efficient one for replacement upgrade. I've looked around on the web but can't really find one the same case size that would work either the amp draw was too high or the operating voltage was not right. Don't Know what you are refering to as far as the 180 size arms. I know the 180 is the motor what are the arms.

bladeCX1464

aright

wafreelance

Hello All,
got my cx about a 3 weeks ago, and did a blade count yesterday, and seems Ive broke 48 blades, 1 upper hub, 4 sets of landing gear,
4 lower hubs, and three front Canopy's, LOL! I have been looking for upgrades to the cx and have managed to up grade the upper hub to aluminum, just ordered a aluminum cnc bottom hub, to end the lower hub breakage thing, took an old fly bar(oh yah on the 4 flybar) stuck the balls in the vise and yanked the metal bar out, re drilled the balls to .010 and inserted carbon shaft cut to exact same length as the original flybar with the exception of adding adjustable dragonfly flybar weights. now I can adjust them in or out to what ever response I feel is best for indoor or outdoor conditions, I highly recommend this up grade alone along with taping your blades both upper and lower with monofiliment straping tape, I read this on another site for a totally different heli tohelp with blade clash on the boom,
Since I have done this NO Blade CLASH! even when going from ff to rev, Ive smacked it into several things and no blade cracks off of the littlest to almost scary hard strikes, this is why im ging to the aluminum lower hub by micro heli, also made a kickin carbon fiber tail boom with cutout tail fins. Ill post a pict soon! LOve my bird.. sorry about the long post just excited to finally cure the blade trashing!

Joebar

Wow, that's an impressive crash resume!! Flybar mod sounds cool -- can you post a few pics?

pimpsmurf

They do work (much better) in parrallel stacked on top each other (not series.) It lowers internal resistance and increases torque and runtime. I believe a double stack would be enough, but one could use a tripple stack if needed I believe.
"Arm" is short for armature which is the part of the motor that spins in the middle. on a brushed motor, this is the coils the electricity flows through (in most cases.) We could transplant the 180 size arm into a ball bearing 130 size case (the size used in xmods, and mini-z's, etc) and pick up some efficiency, and could possibly use a slightly lower number of windings (turns) in the motor to give a little more rpm, while using more powerful (neo) magnets to provide much more torque and still stay around 10 minutes with the runtimes with a 2 or 3 stack of FETs. I have to order my 130 atomic cans (#AR17 to see what I mean) from HongKong which will take a while. Mind you, the arms never wear out. Since very little dust should make it into the chopper's body, we can use the AR17 "open" cans and commutator drops to increase torque dramatically. I'll bet the 180 motors (like many other so-called "big-block" motors for xmods) use silver leaves to lay across the top and bottom of the commutator instead of true brushes. Carbon brushes will stand up to the heat, and provide much better torque than the stock configuration.

I am going to get to some modding, but I need a couple matching pinions (or a pinion puller), some AR17 cans (comes with neo-dyn magnets I think), some FETs, and maybe some 180 sized arms. I can hand wind and balance motors, but I need to find out how many windings these motors are. I have to break one open. BTW, the AR17 can is servicable. you wouldn't ever have to buy more motors because you can simply replace some VERY cheap brushes every so often (maybe 20+ packs) because these motors don't get very hot. I've run 130 sized motors as hot as 200F. very warm indeed. =)

wafreelance:
Unfortunately, my blade clash comes from overstearing outdoors, but I am interested in your swaybar. give us a link or some pics!

also, I have you way beat on broken parts. hehe. over $400 invested ATM.

-JNY

AGR26

48 blades?????!!!! I haven't even flown mine yet, and you're scaring me!! []

wafreelance

Yep 48 blades! I have been learning in my enclosed patio aprox. 12x24 with a hot tub and 8 ft ceiling, and out in the yard where I have 2 phone lines and 1 power line at about 12 feet, the 2 phone lines are about 6 feet in between so I tend to "try" to do figure 8's over and below the two lines alternating directions in between, quite a challenge and quite a drop if you hit one! but since Ive taped the under side of the blades, man what a difference in not nicking the blades, and they are alot more tolerable to hard hits, another great challenge I have found, is to take a 12 inch cake pan, mine is tupperware, and set it bottom up in the middle of the floor or yard and try to do spot landings on it, if its on a hard surface, and you miss the landing, you dont trash the blades, cause they dont hit it if the heli lands next to it, instead of on it, I broke several trying to land on a 5 gallon bucket, I tend to do touch and goes between the hot tub and the floor with the cake pan, it is really good training for ground hovering due to the ground effect... the other blade breaks come from just pushing my ability in banked fast turns and such, I tend to forget to keep the power up there for driving it into the cyclone fence or shop! anyway my theory is push it til ya learn it! no pain no gain! Love my little Crack chopper its so damn addicting! LOL!

bladeCX1464

lol haha good idea i might try...i tried landing on a coke case and i kept breaking the blades but 48 blades is crazy and u have spent more money in blades and such than the heli itself cost...lol but i agree, they are addicting.....im having a problem with my cx...a typical problem...my trim is all the way left and they heli still spins right anybody had this same problem? anybody know how to solve it? any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated! thx

AGR26

Great input guys! And; wafreelance, that is some stunt flying for sure! [8D] Tonight, after work, I shut off the ceiling fan in the great (living) room, and for the first time, attempted taking off, and a little hovering. We have hard wood floors. So; there was a lot of skidding... Ha! But; I did achieve a couple of hovers of 1-3 ft. high. Nothing fancy. When I felt it was getting a bit away from me, I lowered it. I didn't hit anything. I was going to go outside. But; it was just too hot! But; the wind was calm. I have 1.7 acres. So; I've got lots of room.

I was getting ready to have a another go, and I noticed the battery dying. So; I stopped.

bladeCX1464

thx

wafreelance

BladeCX1464,
check the swashplate below the lower hub, also check to see if you may have broke a connecting post, also have you done a canopy mod by drilling the windshield and the 4 in 1 control box? or what I had to do and highly recommended by other is totally remove the 4 in 1 out of the case and reinstall with double stick foam tape, that alone cured my yaw to the left and right problem. but check the swash plate if you crashed it hard or landed really rough.

fossoman

Just Keep checking back a few pages its all there on setting the trim reseting the 4 in 1 adjusting the trim pot and a whole lot more.

fossoman

Yeah I guess I'm a little slow when it comes to abreviations. IT still seems like a lot to go through for a little more run time but more power to ya. I just wish I could find a better one that I could install without opening the case and rewinding an armature.

bladeCX1464

k ill try but imma post some pics of my bcx ive some some modding to it lately and i would like to hear some opinions....but thx again ill tell ya if it works

bladeCX1464

how do i post pics? i cant figure out

bladeCX1464

o well i have spent long time working on my garage and hangar and ive uploaded the pics so if ya wanna see them then chek it out it i made a sweet looking tail boom....

wafreelance

heres a few pics of my cx with mods, let me know what ya think, carbon flybar, and carbon tail boom..and strapping taped blades... finally got the darn pics to upload....coool

AGR26

I know this! Sliding the battery into the CX bottom first is a whole easier than connectors first like the instructions indicate! [>:]

How do most of you install the battery in yours?

opjose

If you are aware of this, please pardon this post, I've not seen it documented before.

Eliminating Vibration:
-----------------------

I had a minor crash with my Blade CX.

Afterwards I purchased and installed the new aluminum shaft AND I also seperately purchased and installed the aluminum bearing holder. (If you do one, you should really do the other as well!).

I installed a new set of blades as well.

My heli then developed very bad vibration, that I could not initially find the cause for.

Everything was properly adjusted.

I even tried a new lower shaft/gear set.

The heli wobbled/vibrated quite badly.

I noticed that each blade was hand etched with a little 2 or 3 in the circle in the inner.

Hmmm... I weighed the blades and found that the 2 or 3 corresponded to different blade weights.

I checked the heli and noticed that I had installed both a 2 and a 3 blade on the upper set.


When I replaced on of the blades with another with an identical number, all of the wobbling/vibration disappeared!


Check the number on your blades, and make sure that each pair is matched!

AGR26

A-Ha! Where might one find this aluminum bearing holder? My LHS might have it. What's the part #? [8D]

Thanks!

opjose

It is EFLH1244

I ordered this:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=EFLH1244

AGR26

Excellent! I'll check with the LHS! 'Much thanks! I haven't installed the alum. inner shaft yet.

wafreelance

When placing my battery I put the wires to the back and to the right, then just plug it together underneath between the skids, easy in, easy out, and if you want you can just plug it into the balancer without taking the battery out..... if you only have one battery, Ihave 3 batteries and am still compelled to get another....hmmm... I'll dwell on it alittle longer!

Psikelly

Nice mods on your CX. Is that acarbon fibre tail boom?? If it is doesnt your antenna being wrapped around it cause any probs?? Like loss of range and maybe glitches. Because after all carbon fibre is a type of metal (carbon) kind of. Iwas told by my LHS that wrapping it like that causes interference. Maybe hes wrong and his info to me is just makin me sound dumb lol