Yes. Stock TX with clicks. Made sure I was not dropping throtle. I do think head speed is dropping. It does recover as soon as I nutral the rudder.

When I first did the Tx mod I always moved the stick up or down when changing the rudder... now I'm used to it.

try going back to single motor tail, and see if that'll solve your problem, we've got to isolate your problem first. it really shouldn't do that, you may also want to try a different battery.

Thanks. I will try single motor. Its the same with all batteries.

Lanny2003 when you find out what it is please tell me because it could be what is causeing me loss of flight...

Commander Bob,
You could save some weight on your DD conversion by cutting off the unused bearing/shaft mount, getting rid of the wiring connectors and if the motor is a RXC then get rid of the heat sinks. This would all help with the balance problem you mentioned.
Mark

ok i'm trying to get all the stuff i need for DD tail through my lhs, of course they go through horizon, is there a prop adapter/prop that i should use from them, b/c the one that everyone seems to recomend is not on horizon's website. but i can get the cn12 motor/heatsink

Jellyson, (your quote:Wow, Dave, looks good, now you are going to need a "ceiling protector" like mine!)

Thanks, it took me a lot longer to do than I thought, not the total rebuild, I've done that before.. I'm meaning just, all the things required to get the brushless, esc and wiring changes made.

It was easy and straight forward, again, more time than I figured..

I love the brushless, not just from the more power aspect, but it runs so much smoother and you can feel the difference in throttle control in normal mode, heli is more responsive.

I did take additional time to make sure that the swashplate was level and everything balanced to perfection. Not vibrations at all.

Total time, about 3 hours (over two days) and about 6 beers.[sm=spinnyeyes.gif][sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

Take care Jelly,

Dave / Choppersrule

You may already do this but if you don't DO IT. I have broken many tail booms. After replacing the first I glued both ends (tail and on to heli) and then when I cut the throttle the heli spins a bit and when it hit cracked my boom. I now only glue the part that goes into the heli because the tail part is tight enough to stay with out shifting but loose enough to move in a crash saving the boom.

This is going to sound strange--but if I were you I would mount the gyro directly under the main shaft. I'd make a little mount and hang it from the frame rods. It will not only work better here but it will also help balance the helicopter.

And of course you can do what you want to with your pitch links. I too have a copy of the manual, but I still have to believe the evidence of my eyes and fingers. You all have seen the photos I have posted. I assure you that all the original and replacement links that I have examined (6 pairs of each type by now) are one-way from the factory. By the time you have put them on backwards several times, they will be loose either way, so I agree, it matters not.
But since I only put mine on one way, they do not develop this play over time. Perhaps that is one reason that I find the Blade CPPro to be a fine machine, quite controllable and predictable, and yet very responsive to the controls. I always defend the helicopter on threads where people bad-mouth it and say that it is squirrely and/or difficult to fly.
Certainly it flies better than I do!

And please by all means continue to correct me when I am wrong, it happens occasionally, hee hee hee, and I welcome any controversy, as long as we can have a truly experimental approach.
--John[sm=bananahead.gif]

Jellyson

What should I make the tray out of? It sould be ridged right? Any ideas...

Thanks

I think you can get the battery carrier as a separate part--that or something like that would be ideal, you can hold it in place on the rods with little bits of silicone fuel line just like they already use all over the heli.
If you move the gyro to or forward of the centerline (the main shaft axis) you may have to reverse its reverser. That won't be a problem, just be aware of it. As long as you are behind the shaft you can use your same settings, but you will probably have to turn the gain down because the gyro will be more sensitive in this location.

I saw a thread where someone used a burned-out tail motor as ballast in the nose--I don't know if he was kidding or what, but it worked. Still, as with any aircraft, weight that doesn't actually do anything but add weight is to be avoided at all cost.

Hi Guys,

Jellyson is right on the money, concerning pitch link placement, they do only go on one way. One full twist always, not half a twist.
You almost have to use a magnifying glass to see the difference. But what he said about the fingers is the big evidence. Run your thumb nail across the link, lengthwise. One side will be totally smooooth, flip it over to the other side, run the thumb nail again and you will feel the notch.. Do it slow, but there is the difference and all of them..

Jelly, Da*n your good, I couldn't tell until I read this about the finger thingy.

Go slow,

Dave / Choppersrule

I don't want any extra weigh exspecialy because it won't even stay air born for more than a minute.

I noticed the little lip from the mold and it is facing inside the heli (I think that is right) but there is no binding or play eather way so if I got new ones I bet you are right but mine seem fine.

Commander,
They will be fine as long if adjustments are needed, you do one full twistn at a time. Over time, taking the linkage off and putting back on will cause some wear.. 2 or 3 thousands of an inch can make a difference in performance.
Example, the motor pinion, main gear tolerance is like .02 to .04, more or less can either over heat the motor or cause premature gear wear. These suckers need alot of maintenance. I've learned so much on this forum..
Hang in there,
Dave / Choppersrule

Well, I finally hooked the EFlite 400 size 4200kv inrunner up. Just flew it about 10 mins ago. All I can say, is WOW. It adds tons of power to the Blade and it acts like a rocket! The only bad thing about it is that Im without a gyro and am running the stock tail (you thought the tail acted bad stock, put a brushless in and Ive got the trim all the way to the right and am holding the stick to the rite a little ways) . I also really like the auto-cutoff.

I know that the stock tail wont last very long with the new brushless motor, so as soon as it burns out, Im gonna get a gyro and DD-tail.

Tommorrow morning Im gonna flip the Blade and do a couple other things before the bus gets to my house, and Ill let you know how it went when I get home from BasketBall practice.

Happy Flyin Everybody,
Alex

Alex, did you re-adjust the prop. mix on the 3-in-1 after you installed the brushless? See p. 56 of the manual, you probably need to re-adjust it to get rid of the need for rudder trim.

So today I take a flight with my new superskids (first time I flew with them on). I hit the ground not too hard once on the first flight and they break! Infact nothing else on my heli was damaged. I put the stock gear back on and flew. I hit hit the ground in forward flight, but the "angle of attack" to the grass was not steep at all. It broke both verticle pieces going from landing gear to frame. Wonder if I can get spare parts....

My DX7 and hs55 servos arrived today!!! And just in time to sit and wait for me to replace the bad 3n1 with a new one, or if I can find the GWS ESC for the tail instead I'll opt for that cheaper solution.

hey alex, finally, you did it eh? 400 size, good to hear that non of your links are flyin off. btw, i find a roll much easier than a flip, just doesn't loose that much altitude and the tail holds better. i'm sure you want a hh and dd tail. good luck with the flip.
, yep, make sure you've adjusted the proportion. if you did, time to get dd=D

your not alone. i really like it and can almost hover hands off in the living room now. but i really doubt that the little slop in the little links in this little chopper will offset it that much. when you turn it one full turn at a time, your not able to make fine little adjustments and i think that could cause more problem than a little slop in the links on this heli. on a 90 size... dunno, but not on this one, mines flies great, never replaced any links and have always adjusted 1/2 a turn each.

too bad up here, crappy weather all the way, can't fly, always have like 30kmph wind.

Thanks Jellyson, I forgot about the gain and proportional trimmer pots.

I just got my DX6 and wow there are so many options that I never knew you could have...
I think this will fix my jumpy gyro.

I have a lot of programing tomarrow...
Wish me luck

Wow!!!!! Blade Cp pro fix report:

First of all thanks to Jellyson! I could not have fixed it without his help. That probibly applies to most of us in this forum.
There where a few factors that played togather to complete one BIG problem (like all helis. . . 10,000 moving parts around 1 oil leak!)
factor 1; recent bad weather flying area - inducive to turbulance!
factor 2; bad servos (my fault from blade stikes ect..)

fix; new servos all around (standard e-flite - had extra from old small nitro plane)

how it acts now: flys like a top!!!!!!

origninal problem: NOTE it acted as if it had sticky collective. . . IT DID NOT! It was the right rear servo. When i would input directional that effected that servo it would cause a current draw due to the servo wearing out. . . i would then add thro/pitch to regain where i was and to counter act the fix of the 'drop' and return to where i was i would need to put in the opposite directional to balance back on that 'beach ball' hove thought. . . then guess what. . . it WOULD HAPPEN AGAIN (hints the reason it looked like sticky collective). It was small enough of a current draw NOT to notice RPM change! That is why i originally thought it was collective pitch and spent 3 days trying to fix something that wasnt broken. Although my improvements helped smooth the Cp it was not the real problem. Also my current flying area is causing a lot of turb because of close objects with the rotar wash. . .That made the bad problem worse.

so i hope this helps you guys or at least reminds us to check current draw every-now-and-then as a good pre-flight. After all what is 5 min with a few hundred dollars in the air. I spend about 10 min, at least, on my giant scale gas planes in pre-flight (3 years with giant scale gas planes (6 years total in air rc) and since my extensive pre-flights with my gassers i have NEVER EVER EVER, NEVER had a crash and only 2 deadstick landings (bad plugs). Time is money and the more time you spend of preflight the less money you spend in parts!

Anyway sorry for the long post but this might help someone with their problems!
Thanks again Jellyson

- Evan