Maybe you're right. I use 3S 2100mAh batteries for a plane - stryker27c, and there is no way I could use that battery on this heli. I just thought maybe the batteries were 'different' somehow. I guess before buying any battery of a different size, it would be important to see the specs on size and weight and compare them to the stock blade CP lipo. I wouldn't want to go to much heavier or bigger.

Hey Holyschmoley, You really need to think twice before going up to a 2100. I have one that I tried out in my CP. She rally had a hard time getting off of the ground. No problem for the 450 SE or Walker60 size of heli though.
I would recommend not going any higher than a 1500 battery just because of the payload your heli is carrying.

But that is only my opinion!

Michael

i think that anything over 1320 or such won't gain you flight time (not THAT much) and perfromance won't be good.

WOHOOO!!! tic tocs with the blade, this is unreal!!![:@]

Oh, I'm not. I was just saying in my last post that I use those 2100 mAh for an airplane (that they're meant for). I wouldn't put that thing on my blade. It's huge. I was just wondering if there were different smaller batteries or something, but that was just ignorant thinking. I took a look at a ton of batteries today and the different specs including weight and size compared to the stock battery. I think going up to 1200 or so might be okay, but when it came down to price, I just said forget it and I'm going with the $17.00 battery in my other post that has the same specs as the stock blade lipo. I just want a 2nd battery for now. I'll see about picking up something with a little more mAh late.

Holyschmoley,
I understand what you are saying!
Just remember what I posted after your post about ALL Battery. Although their price is good, the connector (white molex) is wired BACKWARDS! So if you find yourself with a different balancer / charger set up, you will need to be VERY CAREFUL about how you plug into the balancer or otherwise you will FRY yours as I FRIED mine [&o]

[link=http://stores.ebay.com/AplusRCstore]A+ Enterprises[/link] That is the link.

If the 2100mAh battry will work. Using the stock motor probably not. I had no choice because as I said before I bough a BL motor rated for 25A cont. so I needed a 2200mAh 15C cont. battry

[sm=confused.gif][sm=confused.gif]if you bought a 25A cont. motor, doesn't it mean that it can handle up to 25A? and not "have to run 25A or else"?

If I remember right from previous posts, Commander Bob basically run the Trex 450 power system in a blade.

That includes the battery, motor and ESC.

Karl

That is right. If you have a 25A cont. motor and a battry that can only supply 8-10A (stock e-flight) then it will over heat and may explode. Also if you have a 15A esc then the motor will try to take 25A. Remember that ESC pulse the current, so for a 25A motor at 50% throttle it will take 25A half of the time. I have a 35A align Bl esc, 3800Kv motor, and 2200mAh 15C battry. I can't wait to try it. I need a deans conector, spliter (tail and main esc) Pinion and some luck.

I have been reading up on this forum for several weeks, and have just recently gotten to the end of it. I just recently bought a Blade CP Pro because the LHS had a good deal on it, and they carry all the parts (they only carry e-flite and the t-rex parts for heli's, so most other heli's were out), plus they carry them all at internet pricing to keep the business local.

I also had alot of trouble because the tail rotor is not working properly. I have full right trim on the left stick, and I still have to give it 1/2 to 3/4 right stick on the rudder to keep it straight. I didn't know how to adjust it, so I just left it. I think you adjust it with the pot on the 3 in 1 that is between the other pot (gyro I think) and the LED. How much do I need to adjust this? Is it pretty sensative, or should I just do something like 1/16th of a turn with the battery unplugged, then reinitialize and test it out?

I am trying to get the spindle out to replace it because it is bent. I've got the bolt out of one side, and the paddle control frame off, and the screw out of the bell mixer arm but the blade grips wont come off. I haven't pulled very hard because I am afraid that some of the small peices will come flying out, and either I wont find them or I wont know which order to put them back in. Also when you put things back together, on the screw that goes through the mixer arm and the screws that go into the spindle, how hard are they supposed to be tightened?

I know this is kind of long, but I couldn't think of a way to shorten it, except putting the crash in a different post =)

This is my crash story

To make a long story short, when I got my helicopter they did not have any of the training gear, so I made some out of wooden dowels and waffle balls. I used 1/4" dowels trimmed down to just over the length of the blades. This worked quite well (though the dowels were somewhat heavy for the chopper), and I flew a battery pack once a day for a week without any major events. The LHS got the regular training balls in stock so I bought some of them because they were lighter. I attached them the same way I attached the dowels. I had been hovering quite well in about a 2 foot cube, except I usually had one time per flight where it would get away from me (I think this might be atleast in part because of the proportional pot needing to be adjusted), and I would have to throttle down and let it skid across the hardwood gym floor. This worked alright when I had the wood skids, but because the new skids were flimsy when they hit the ground the zip ties slid off and that in combination with the bounce that those new skids had, I got a boom strike from comming down from about 1' up (yes still very much in GE). I couldn't believe that it had such a terrific crash with such a small height.

Because I had plasti blades and super-skids, the only real damage I received was a bent spindle and a couple of dents in the blades.

Finally a decent flight. I had the blade cp. I was careful about learning to hover but did so on my 8X12 deck mostly surrounded by brick on 3 sides. I took a few crashes, of course, here and there. Long story short, over a few months of being able to hover well I went through a few parts (1 4in1 among many others) and my blade eventually flew like crap. I was fed up with troubleshooting the problems and sold it on Ebay. After a few months I just got the blade cp pro after having the blade cx2 for the past couple months, previously. I've got to say, the blade cx2 is a fun and quality heli for playing with indoors. If you want 1 keeper heli to fly indoors, get it. Anyway, so I got back to the cp pro today. I couldn't make it to the park but while hovering well finally had the confidence to take it up to 10, 20 and then about 30 or 40 feet in the air and take it behind my house into an open wilderness area. I flew it for awhile there and then back, carefully and maybe a bit wobbly at times. My 2 yr old daughter got in the way of my landing area, and in my distraction got a little crazy and within probaby a couple inches of my house. My heart pounding after that, I landed it, and all is well with my new cp pro uncrashed as of yet. It's nice to finally have a 'real' flight under my belt vs. just hovering. It's frustrating learning these things as a new pilot and seeing your $250 heli crash, not knowing how much the repairs will cost or even if you can make them. Eventually, if you enjoy it and stick with it and it's worth it.

So tomorrow I'm going fulll throttle and upside down. Or maybe that'll be next week.

Great. I'm just learning to fly my Blade CP Pro, it's my first heli ever, but i am only 13 so i will probly have many more to come. I'm thinking of getting the Flat bottom plastiblades because with the stock blades, i got a little to close to a flower box and ticked the blades on it. It looked fine so i centered it again. But as soon as I rose to about 4ft. the end of one of the blades came flying off and almost hit me, so i am considering plastiblades. Are plastiblades a lot more stronger? and will they help me learn to fly quicker and safer? Thanks for you time.

Lilpilot13

I recently purchased a CP Pro as well, and it is my first heli too. I got the plasti blades, and I can say they are much more durable than the balsa ones. Also where you are not going to be inverted for a while, the flat bottom blades will help develop more lift, and some say stability (I can't say either way on that one). They are not too much more money. My LHS sells them for 20 bucks for a set, compared to 15 for the balsa blades. If you read my crash story i just posted, I had a boom strike with the plasti blades, and had little damage to them. Actually I flew it after I had a boom strike just to end on a better note, and not be discouraged. It actually flew just fine (no difference that I could tell), even with a bent spindle. So I would say get them. You may want to move back to balsa once you can fly without crashing, just because they are lighter and offer better performance.

Hope this helps,
mrasmm

Lilpilot13,
You will hear a lot of different opinions on this one. My personal experience is that the plastics are Ok but you really want to keep with the symmetrical blade. The flat bottoms are not easier in my opinion. Remember that you still have to balance them--especially when you ding them. Also, when you make one item stronger (i.e. plastic blades), other items that normally won't bend or break are now easier to break.
Just my honest opinion,
Michael

I agree. I have a set of plasti blades symmetrical and before I got them I never broke the blade grips. Now I have 4 broken blade grips.
symmetrical blades = faster head speed more stable
Flat blades = more lift slower head speed and less damage when you crash
I like the symmetricals.

Thanks for your help, I geuss when i go to the LHS i will by 2 sets of balsa blades. does one set come with two blades?

The carbon blades are also nice. You really do notice the difference in cyclic response. And they are really tough. Only problem is, if the blades aren't absorbing the impact, something else down the line will and that means broken parts.

BTW, I finally get to fly outside today for the first time since I got my blade. She's gonna see the world upside down for the first time! Maybe I'll get a pic....

The guy at my LHS said the CF blades would splinter if you crashed. I still use my plasti blades because $9.99 blade grips are cheaper that $15 blades and I break the grips less.

do the flat bottom balsa blades work good? would thoughs be better that the symetrical balsa blades?

The flat bottom balsa baldes are also a lot cheaper

http://www.helidirect.com/product_in...roducts_id=975

Check those out.............. Get at least 2 sets, and then the shipping isn't dinging you so much.


__________________________________________________ _____________________________________


Of all the things I ever lost............................................ I miss my mind the most!

Thanks, I will just buy them at my LHS though. Does it make it fly better with teh flat bottom? like would ti be more stable? Thansk for ur help again guys!

Bob,
I guess if you hit really hard they would break. I don't know about splinter..... Even when I've broken a carbon blade on a Raptor, hitting really hard, they just break in a couple of places. Usually I've just dinged up the tips with these little electric guys. Anyway, its all about what works best for you. I just love the way a stiff carbon blade flies.