E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
#1477
mrasmm thanks for all that info that helps a ton i think i will try the dual motor.
is there anything else that i want to do to it to make it better.how do i fuse the tail motor
thanks for the help
Tom
is there anything else that i want to do to it to make it better.how do i fuse the tail motor
thanks for the help
Tom
#1478
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From: Sometown, Northern Utah
You're welcome =) I just hope it wasn't too long =P
Anyways, to do the fuse mod you just take a mini blade type automotive fuse and solder it inline with the tail motor. It doesn't matter which wire you put it on, either the red or the black, as there is no negative ground. If you want, you can make quick disconnects for easy change out. I just used female spade connects. I got both the fuses and the connectors at the local car stereo shop. They have all sorts of stuff that you can buy one peice at a time for cheap. For the main motor you want to use 7.5A and for the tail rotor you want to use 3A. Just see post #1470 for some pics of what I did. Also check out SSG's pdf that is attached.
As far as other things you can do I got the battery monitor from SSG Scott, which is very useful for indicating when a motor is going to burn out soon, as well as saving lipo's from being drained too far. Other things you can do are brushless main motor and CNC parts. If you are just beginning, like I am, you might just stick with what you have for now, and when you need something else you'll know it =)
hrm, it would seem as though pdf's are not supported. PM me with your e-mail and I'll send it.
One other trick you can do is put a paper clip in the head instead of the sheer pin. The paperclip sheers much easier, and can prevent head damage, or bent main shafts. I forget who came up with it, but I included the picture they took just for reference. Way to go to whoever came up with it =)
Anyways, to do the fuse mod you just take a mini blade type automotive fuse and solder it inline with the tail motor. It doesn't matter which wire you put it on, either the red or the black, as there is no negative ground. If you want, you can make quick disconnects for easy change out. I just used female spade connects. I got both the fuses and the connectors at the local car stereo shop. They have all sorts of stuff that you can buy one peice at a time for cheap. For the main motor you want to use 7.5A and for the tail rotor you want to use 3A. Just see post #1470 for some pics of what I did. Also check out SSG's pdf that is attached.
As far as other things you can do I got the battery monitor from SSG Scott, which is very useful for indicating when a motor is going to burn out soon, as well as saving lipo's from being drained too far. Other things you can do are brushless main motor and CNC parts. If you are just beginning, like I am, you might just stick with what you have for now, and when you need something else you'll know it =)
hrm, it would seem as though pdf's are not supported. PM me with your e-mail and I'll send it.
One other trick you can do is put a paper clip in the head instead of the sheer pin. The paperclip sheers much easier, and can prevent head damage, or bent main shafts. I forget who came up with it, but I included the picture they took just for reference. Way to go to whoever came up with it =)
#1479
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From: Houston,
TX
Check it out..........
Blade CX2 with ALL the bladecxpro.com MODS up for sale [link=http://cgi.ebay.com/LIKE-NEW-E-Flight-Blade-CX2-PRO-with-EXTRAS-Bladecxpro_W0QQitemZ160095710531QQcategoryZ2563QQs sPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem]HERE[/link]
Blade CX2 with ALL the bladecxpro.com MODS up for sale [link=http://cgi.ebay.com/LIKE-NEW-E-Flight-Blade-CX2-PRO-with-EXTRAS-Bladecxpro_W0QQitemZ160095710531QQcategoryZ2563QQs sPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem]HERE[/link]
#1480
my cp pro won't hover steady, it basically stays pointed forward but does a toilet bowl hover as if it were going down a wirlpool. Is there somthing I am missing. what causes this
#1481
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From: Sometown, Northern Utah
Has it done it since you got it? Or what happened just before it started doing it?
A couple of simple things to check would be see if the mainshaft is bent. Check if your blades are tracking properly. Check the balance of the blades, and the whole head. Also check your flybar to see that it is balanced and the weights are the same distance out on each side, and that the flybar is the same length on each side (or balance that too by weight). Also check the flybar paddles and make sure they are level with the head like it shows in the manual.
What have you tried, and what haven't you tried? Hopefully some of that helps =)
If you need instruction on how to do some of it check out www.bladecprepair.com for some tips, or ask here =)
Good luck with it!
A couple of simple things to check would be see if the mainshaft is bent. Check if your blades are tracking properly. Check the balance of the blades, and the whole head. Also check your flybar to see that it is balanced and the weights are the same distance out on each side, and that the flybar is the same length on each side (or balance that too by weight). Also check the flybar paddles and make sure they are level with the head like it shows in the manual.
What have you tried, and what haven't you tried? Hopefully some of that helps =)
If you need instruction on how to do some of it check out www.bladecprepair.com for some tips, or ask here =)
Good luck with it!
#1482
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From: Seattle,
WA
I am getting really sick of my CPP. I have issues with how weak the main frame is. I have done the brushless upgrade along with the DD tail. The problem I am having is with all the weight on the front RX and 3n1 mount. Now before I had the ESC on top of all that, one hard landing would either bend or break that plastic mount. I have replaced it twice when it was in stock form. Now with the added weight of the ESC I have broke it again. Is there anyway to upgrade/stiffen up that mount without doing a whole cnc frame? It is a shame that you have to add so much weight to this little flimsy frame that for one it can not hold it without bending/breaking and for two there is no way to get a canopy on it. I am really considering getting rid of this thing and using the money from the sale to put into my REVO or maybe just get a REX and skip all this silly flimsy crap. I can hover a full pack and thats fine for right now but I would like to have something I feel it a little more sturdy and can handle it when things get hairy and it need to come down quicker then I'd like.
#1483
Rexor2 i just had that happen to me on the new frame that i am putting on i put shoe goo where the tab hits the frame to give it a little beef you dont have to do the hole thing just that 90*
i let you know how it works so if you want you can try it
Tom
i let you know how it works so if you want you can try it
Tom
#1484

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From: mt shasta, CA
hey anyhelp would be helpful i have the pitch all screwed up if i bottom the adjustment out how many turns to make it close please help the roadrunner thanks
#1486
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From: Sometown, Northern Utah
yes you can, if the receiver part is not damaged, and it likely isn't. You will need to be handy with soldering though. check here for more info
you might also want to try the fuse mods
http://bladecprepair.com/smf/index.p...d&topic=873.15
you might also want to try the fuse mods
http://bladecprepair.com/smf/index.p...d&topic=873.15
ORIGINAL: Guizmo17
Hi,
My 4in1 burn for the 4th time. Can i install a 3in1 and a receiver with the original tx of Blade CP (not pro)
Thx
Hi,
My 4in1 burn for the 4th time. Can i install a 3in1 and a receiver with the original tx of Blade CP (not pro)
Thx
#1487
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From: Sometown, Northern Utah
There is a nice carbon frame over at helifever for 25 bucks... and if that is all you get, it's $10 for shipping. There is a good review of it over at helifreak. That should get you setup without breaking the bank. It comes in white and black. The CP and CP Pro stuff will go onto it pretty well
http://www.heli-fever.com/product_in...esahk44shekbk2
and
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2-SQeduI7w
http://www.helifreak.com/viewtopic.php?t=32309
hope that helps,
mrasmm
http://www.heli-fever.com/product_in...esahk44shekbk2
and
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2-SQeduI7w
http://www.helifreak.com/viewtopic.php?t=32309
hope that helps,
mrasmm
ORIGINAL: Rexor2
I am getting really sick of my CPP. I have issues with how weak the main frame is. I have done the brushless upgrade along with the DD tail. The problem I am having is with all the weight on the front RX and 3n1 mount. Now before I had the ESC on top of all that, one hard landing would either bend or break that plastic mount. I have replaced it twice when it was in stock form. Now with the added weight of the ESC I have broke it again. Is there anyway to upgrade/stiffen up that mount without doing a whole cnc frame? It is a shame that you have to add so much weight to this little flimsy frame that for one it can not hold it without bending/breaking and for two there is no way to get a canopy on it. I am really considering getting rid of this thing and using the money from the sale to put into my REVO or maybe just get a REX and skip all this silly flimsy crap. I can hover a full pack and thats fine for right now but I would like to have something I feel it a little more sturdy and can handle it when things get hairy and it need to come down quicker then I'd like.
I am getting really sick of my CPP. I have issues with how weak the main frame is. I have done the brushless upgrade along with the DD tail. The problem I am having is with all the weight on the front RX and 3n1 mount. Now before I had the ESC on top of all that, one hard landing would either bend or break that plastic mount. I have replaced it twice when it was in stock form. Now with the added weight of the ESC I have broke it again. Is there anyway to upgrade/stiffen up that mount without doing a whole cnc frame? It is a shame that you have to add so much weight to this little flimsy frame that for one it can not hold it without bending/breaking and for two there is no way to get a canopy on it. I am really considering getting rid of this thing and using the money from the sale to put into my REVO or maybe just get a REX and skip all this silly flimsy crap. I can hover a full pack and thats fine for right now but I would like to have something I feel it a little more sturdy and can handle it when things get hairy and it need to come down quicker then I'd like.
#1488
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From: Sometown, Northern Utah
sorry man, I don't really know any great advice. The best I can say is unplug your motors from the 3 in 1 and power it up. Eyeball it so that the main pitch is slightly negative at 0 throttle. It should be -1 degrees. The best you can do is eyeball it and then adjust it so it tracks. You might try getting it perfectly at 0 pitch at 0 throttle, and then turning them each 1/2 to 1 full turn to give you the negative pitch. Maybe someone else will have some better advice for you. You could also get a pitch gauge, they are only about 13 or 14 bucks. That would solve your problem.
ORIGINAL: 69 roadrunner
hey anyhelp would be helpful i have the pitch all screwed up if i bottom the adjustment out how many turns to make it close please help the roadrunner thanks
hey anyhelp would be helpful i have the pitch all screwed up if i bottom the adjustment out how many turns to make it close please help the roadrunner thanks
#1489
for the weak frame thing, I have this Walkera heli that I crashed a number of times. I ended up using CA hinge material for airplanes and making a doubler for stress points. It made it many times stronger. JUst float some CA on the stress point and lay a CA hinge on it. Hit it with some kicker and its tough as nails. Negligable weight gain, too. Plus you can re enforce only where you need it with out having to buy a new frame. A pack of CA hinges is like a couple of bucks from Tower. Enough to do a dozen helis.
#1490
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From: Seattle,
WA
Thanks thats exactly what I was looking for. It is too bad that on helifreaks you never really see the finished product. I imagine it will work just fine, It looks like everything mounted up just fine. I Am going to order that frame soon and at least give it a try, it has got to be better then the stock frame. Is there a smaller ESC then the E-flite one? It seems like if I can get a much smaller one it would be easier to fit on the new frame. Thanks Again.
ORIGINAL: mrasmm
There is a nice carbon frame over at helifever for 25 bucks... and if that is all you get, it's $10 for shipping. There is a good review of it over at helifreak. That should get you setup without breaking the bank. It comes in white and black. The CP and CP Pro stuff will go onto it pretty well
http://www.heli-fever.com/product_in...esahk44shekbk2
and
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2-SQeduI7w
http://www.helifreak.com/viewtopic.php?t=32309
hope that helps,
mrasmm
There is a nice carbon frame over at helifever for 25 bucks... and if that is all you get, it's $10 for shipping. There is a good review of it over at helifreak. That should get you setup without breaking the bank. It comes in white and black. The CP and CP Pro stuff will go onto it pretty well
http://www.heli-fever.com/product_in...esahk44shekbk2
and
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2-SQeduI7w
http://www.helifreak.com/viewtopic.php?t=32309
hope that helps,
mrasmm
ORIGINAL: Rexor2
I am getting really sick of my CPP. I have issues with how weak the main frame is. I have done the brushless upgrade along with the DD tail. The problem I am having is with all the weight on the front RX and 3n1 mount. Now before I had the ESC on top of all that, one hard landing would either bend or break that plastic mount. I have replaced it twice when it was in stock form. Now with the added weight of the ESC I have broke it again. Is there anyway to upgrade/stiffen up that mount without doing a whole cnc frame? It is a shame that you have to add so much weight to this little flimsy frame that for one it can not hold it without bending/breaking and for two there is no way to get a canopy on it. I am really considering getting rid of this thing and using the money from the sale to put into my REVO or maybe just get a REX and skip all this silly flimsy crap. I can hover a full pack and thats fine for right now but I would like to have something I feel it a little more sturdy and can handle it when things get hairy and it need to come down quicker then I'd like.
I am getting really sick of my CPP. I have issues with how weak the main frame is. I have done the brushless upgrade along with the DD tail. The problem I am having is with all the weight on the front RX and 3n1 mount. Now before I had the ESC on top of all that, one hard landing would either bend or break that plastic mount. I have replaced it twice when it was in stock form. Now with the added weight of the ESC I have broke it again. Is there anyway to upgrade/stiffen up that mount without doing a whole cnc frame? It is a shame that you have to add so much weight to this little flimsy frame that for one it can not hold it without bending/breaking and for two there is no way to get a canopy on it. I am really considering getting rid of this thing and using the money from the sale to put into my REVO or maybe just get a REX and skip all this silly flimsy crap. I can hover a full pack and thats fine for right now but I would like to have something I feel it a little more sturdy and can handle it when things get hairy and it need to come down quicker then I'd like.
#1491
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From: Blacksburg, VA
I read somewhere on one of these forums of a pre-assembled frame and tail boom that one could buy instead of trying to replace the broken tail boom alone.
Who supplies it and what is the part number?
Who supplies it and what is the part number?
#1492
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From: Sometown, Northern Utah
It is called the main frame assemby, and the part # is eflh1166. It comes with the main frame, the tail boom, tail motor gear box housing, and the wire that goes from the esc to the rear tail motor.
In some cases it comes already put together, but it could come in peices. I think it's the closest thing to what you are looking for though.
Any horizon dealer might carry it, and if they don't, they could easily order it. Or you can just order it straight from horizon themselves =)
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=EFLH1166
Hope this helps,
mrasmm
In some cases it comes already put together, but it could come in peices. I think it's the closest thing to what you are looking for though.
Any horizon dealer might carry it, and if they don't, they could easily order it. Or you can just order it straight from horizon themselves =)
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=EFLH1166
Hope this helps,
mrasmm
ORIGINAL: dexon
I read somewhere on one of these forums of a pre-assembled frame and tail boom that one could buy instead of trying to replace the broken tail boom alone.
Who supplies it and what is the part number?
I read somewhere on one of these forums of a pre-assembled frame and tail boom that one could buy instead of trying to replace the broken tail boom alone.
Who supplies it and what is the part number?
#1493
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From: Sometown, Northern Utah
Anytime =). Let us all know how it works out for ya, and if you can, maybe you could post some vids of it and how it works out =)
ORIGINAL: Rexor2
Thanks thats exactly what I was looking for. It is too bad that on helifreaks you never really see the finished product. I imagine it will work just fine, It looks like everything mounted up just fine. I Am going to order that frame soon and at least give it a try, it has got to be better then the stock frame. Is there a smaller ESC then the E-flite one? It seems like if I can get a much smaller one it would be easier to fit on the new frame. Thanks Again.
Thanks thats exactly what I was looking for. It is too bad that on helifreaks you never really see the finished product. I imagine it will work just fine, It looks like everything mounted up just fine. I Am going to order that frame soon and at least give it a try, it has got to be better then the stock frame. Is there a smaller ESC then the E-flite one? It seems like if I can get a much smaller one it would be easier to fit on the new frame. Thanks Again.
#1494
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From: San Diego,
CA
ORIGINAL: holyschmoley
Question on the lipo for the Blade CP Pro. Has anyone use a non Eflite battery? Anyone have any recommendations on where to get those or similar batteries for less?
What do you think about something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/11-1V-800mAh-10C...QQcmdZViewItem
Question on the lipo for the Blade CP Pro. Has anyone use a non Eflite battery? Anyone have any recommendations on where to get those or similar batteries for less?
What do you think about something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/11-1V-800mAh-10C...QQcmdZViewItem
Alright, well to follow-up now, DO NOT ever by batteries from all-battery on Ebay. The battery they sent me won't charge. The wires are in the right places. I tried 2 different Eflite chargers that didn't even recognize the battery. I tried a Parkzone DC car charger, and as soon as I plugged the battery in, it sparked my charger and made my radio and car lights flicker. On top of that, even though the auction says 2-5 business days, it took 2 weeks. They sent out a tracking number immediately telling me it's on the way. Then 10 days later they said, oh it was out of stock last week, but we've sent it now. And on top of that, they're now giving me some hassle on returning the battery for my money back, even though their auction says 30 day refund policy, etc. These people suck. Their batteries suck. Don't ever buy anything from these yahoos.
#1495
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From: San Diego,
CA
Has anyone had the tail motor pinon get a little lose? It happened on mine yesterday for the 2nd time. It seems like it just came slightly out of the motor but seems to be okay when pushed back in place except that it pops out again. It only catches the tail rotor wheel half the time like this, which is no good. The 1st time I tried to superglue the pinon after pushing it back in. That, of course, did not work as some glue spills in and keeps the thing from spinning properly.
Anyone else had this problem and was able to fix it? No biggie if not, I'll just replace the tail motor again.
Anyone else had this problem and was able to fix it? No biggie if not, I'll just replace the tail motor again.
#1497
ok i put the fuses inline on the main motor and the tail motor, and i crashed it this weekend blew the main motor fuse and now all i get on the 3n1 is a red light. does that mean the 3n1 is done? and if so why did the fuse not save it
#1498
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From: Sometown, Northern Utah
I guess you replaced the fuse? How big were the fuses you were using? Also make sure that your throttle trim is all the way down, your throttle is all the way down, and the flip switch on the right side of the Tx is towards the back (the idle up switch). It sounds more like your unit is not arming rather than the 3 in 1 is bad. Also check that the batteries in your Tx are good, the antenna is extended and the Tx is on =)
#1499
i will check that i was pretty sure the throttle trim and the throttle it self but i for got about the idle up i will check that and it was a 7.5a on the main and a 3a on the rear motor
thanks again for all your help
thanks again for all your help


