RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

I tied the heli down to the metal panel on the side of my computer with some packing tape and spun it up. The swash looks fine. Left it goes left then the blades slowly follow right same thing forward and back all good. The blade response is not that good (I don't know if this matters) swash left, the blades take about a second maybe half a second to reach full left and parallel with the swash, it's the same all around.

Thanks,
Justin

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Got my bird back in the air with the flat bottoms and extra flight bar weights and a new spindle and man did it help me i can actually keep it in the air for more than three seconds now!!! WOW this is fun [>:] Come ear doggie baahahahahahaha (Thats was my machine gun noise) Bahahahahahahaha Woof Woof Dang he's quick gotta lead him more!

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

DD is direct drive not belt drive. On the stock BCPP the motor turns a gear witch has a prop on it. With DD the prop is directly on the motor (no gears). It weighs more because the motor is longer for more power.

Hopes this helps

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Direct Drive as in the tail prop is directly mounted and driven by the motor drive shaft

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHHM6&P=M

This is the best option IMHO for replacing the stock tail motor

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

B dub what was your heli doing? was it squaily? hard to control? not respaunsive? If so I may have the same problem that you did!

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

DD is the direct drive tail..... All that means is they are using a GWS motor and propeller and bypassing the gear that is on the stock bcpp. You will notice motor failure on the tail very often. The DD is a bigger and better motor, so you get more tail authority and longer life.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

i was a little late on that post...lol

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

I was looking at the link for tower hobbies site that pilotcline left and now I am wondering what other parts / mods are necessary for the conversion. Something that I am considering although I am still in hover mode! :)

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

you might want to get a set of carbon fiber blades. The will definatly make a difference in stable hover. The tail is a good upgrade as well, but not needed when you in your hovering stages.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Justin,
now since you have nailed down that the servos and shash are working correct; then it sounds like a prob in the head...

Most Important:
-check that your bell/hel mixer arms are oriented correct and that all components move freely. follow link for a great up close pic of how things should look.
http://www.bladecprepair.com./manual...connected.html
-Make sure your spindle shaft is not bent.
-Check the proper dampening: another pic http://www.bladecprepair.com./manual...grip_play.html (what the image calls "axial play" is what I am calling "slop in the dampening" )
-check that the rubber O-rings on the spindle shaft are in good shape and lightly lubricated
-check that all of your dampening washers are installed correct: pic http://www.bladecprepair.com./manual...d_washers.html (I have 1 shim on each side of the spindle shaft, inbetween the O-ring & stepwasher to eliminate some of the slop in my dampening. (dont add too many shims to where the orings are compressed and there is no play all)

Also check:
-check that your rotor head moves up and down freely on the center hub
-then check all of the obvious again; flybar Paddles are totally paralel to the paddle control frame(zero degree pitch), things are balanced, all balls and pushrods move freely with no binding in their entire range of motion, ect., ect.

pic of exploded view for quick refference: http://www.bladecprepair.com./manual_pop/expl_view.html

Man keep your head up.... I dont know if you read my long post here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_45...35/key_/tm.htm but my bird was acting similar to the way yours sounds, It just didnt want to act like it is supposed to... I guarantee by the time you get this one figured out you will know this heli's tuning inside and out. You will never have to deal with all of this connfusion when troubleshooting. You'll be on top of things soon and have airborn fun again;)
gl, Noah

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

http://bladecprepair.com/man_tr_dd_conversion.html

This site has the complete parts list and instructions for the DD mod! Enjoy

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Thanks for the help! I have to wait until Friday cause I already spent this weeks allowance. My wife is not impressed with this helicopter thingy!

Momma don't like my new hobby! [:@]

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

'
I got the Jetranger body made by the same guy and it looks pretty good. I havn't flown with it yet since I cant keep from crashing still but it feels really light so I doubt it will be too much of an issue.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

finally the cp pro is here still in the box , just a few questions i know i have to use the training gear, but what else i need, do i need to buy the balancer balde or there is a way to make a custom balancer blade, besides teh manual say do i need make another adjustments, what else i need ?
Thanks
This is my first heli so i don´t want to crash in my first atempt ..
Thanks for your help ..
Another question is there anyway to reduce the sensitivity if this is the word on the left stick (this is a question of a friend )

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

What is the ballancer blade you are talking about? If you want to adjust the sensitivity then add the extra flybar weights and i suggest getting the crash kit for the regular cp. and replacing your symmetrical blades with the flatties from the crash kit. I Just did these things and it helped tremendously! Also a crash is going to happen but only you can determine how bad its going to be by how out of controll you let the helli get!

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

I like the Airwolf one. :D

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

That should be plenty to learn with. use RADDS http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html Take it slow, and you will have a better chance of not crashing. You really do not need a blade balancer unless you do major modification to the blades. The stock blades come from the factory "good enough" to fly on. It is rare for me to have to balance woodies much at all to fly them. Oh yeah, in this hobby it is not if you will crash so much as when! Good luck

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

OK, I need help... I put on the DD tail about a month ago. The tail went bad, it would still turn, just not fast enough to overcome the torque of the main moter at take off speeds. I replaced it with a second DD that went bad after about 5 flights. First the tail would twitch horrible for a second or so, and then it would work fine. Finally it just quit all together in flight causing a bad crash(the reason for the new servos). I figured that I had a bad 3n1, so I replaced that with a new one, and also a new tailmotor wire. I added these at the same time that I put on the new spektrum RX. The other day I put my 3rd DD motor on. It worked great. Flew out 2 battery packs and then I went to bed. The next day I flew it again, and after about 1 minute into the flight the tail quit working. All of the connections are secure between the tail and the 3n1. I am also using the g90 gyro. The first two motors quit working on the stock TX, and the last one on the spektrum set up. I am at a complete loss as to what is causing this, but at $10 bucks a pop, these motors are getting real expensive real quick.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Try backing off the gyro gain. It may be over driving the tail... I use the CN12-RCX motor and it works great and have A LOT of flights on it....

Telebee gyro w/ stock 3in1 still as tail motor esc... Make sure the porp. and gain pots on 3in1 are all the way down... Counterclockwise...

Oh, Put a 3 AMP mini fuse on the positive tail motor wire ...... Protects esc and motor... This fuse popping may tell if your over driving it...

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Thanks Robmoney,
I'll do the fuse, but do you have a part number or picture that could help me out? I've only had the right pot down as per the manual, your saying to turn both down correct? Hope this helps.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Also what prop are you using on the motor? I'm using the 3020.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Pilotcline THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT
With the DD tail from GWS you need to break it in!
Use about 3V (2 AA) and run it for 30 min. I have heard if you don't the 11V lipo will kill it.
I broke mine in and have had no tail problems.

Hopes this helps,
Justin

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Noah I just printed you posts (the one above and the long one) I'm going to read them and cheack each thing and see if I can't get it going.

Thanks a lot for all the help,
Justin

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

I just noticed that the retaining coller was a little too high causing play with the main gear, I fixed it but I don't know how much a difference that will make. Also is the coller saposed to have the flat side up or down. I have the flat up so only the curved part touches the barring (makes more sence because it is then like a step washer)

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Noah what do you mean when you say the "Key on the hub and the keyway on the rotorhead were worn from too many bladestikes/crashes."?