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RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
k thank you so much. i dont think i have a cracked boom though. i havent had a major crash. Is it the ojne on the left?
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RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
yeah... if you look on the box itself you'll see some small letters that say GAIN and Proportional, or something like that. The gain is the one you are after. I don't have handy access to the manual, but the complete adjustment process is also in the manual, probably just shy of half way through.
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RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
Ok, thanks a lot!:):):):):):)
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RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
you're welcome =)
ORIGINAL: Lilpilot13 Ok, thanks a lot!:):):):):):) |
RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
oh, oops, i forgot to ask somethign else. What is the thing on the left side of the transmiter that says Idle Up TCM ADJ
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RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
It adjusts the pitch curve in idle up. If it is all the way counter clockwise, then you will have 50% throttle in idle up at mid stick, and if you have it all the way clockwise, then it will be 100% throttle at mid stick. If the knob is half way it will be 75% throttle at midstick in idle up. Alwyas of course at the 0 stick and full stick in idle up the throttle will be 100%
ORIGINAL: Lilpilot13 oh, oops, i forgot to ask somethign else. What is the thing on the left side of the transmiter that says Idle Up TCM ADJ |
RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
ORIGINAL: mrasmm Thanks mrasmm - have some more info interspersed below - will attempt to get some pics up tonight. yeah, it sounds like something is off, and it sounds like you are right in the trouble spot. The neg collective should be the same as the positive -12 or 13, and you said you are only getting 6. I would also make sure to use some 3 in 1 to lube the swash and the shaft and the main bearings, and work it out so you can get rid of that binding. I adjusted the servo linkages on the swash 2 full turns (lowered the swash) so now it is more like 9/16" below the top of the main shaft. This eliminates "bottom out" with full negative collective. Adjusted pitch to now have -12/13 to +12/13 with 0 at midstick. This seems to be 2-3 degs too much, though and bogs down the motor at higher throttle. Now about -1/0 to +12/13 in normal mode. Pitch links are as short as I can get them so no way to remove anymore pitch in normal mode. Seems like this is still too much pitch with no way to adjust it further. I have lubed the swash, but the binding on left/right cyclic is (seems to be) due to too much servo travel/limits of swash pivot. The mainshaft gets pushed (temporarily bent) to the left or right (maybe 1/16" at the top) with full left/right stick. Perhaps it was like this all along and I just never noticed. LHS seems to think so, but who knows. Also check to make sure that your main pinion is not too tight or loose against the main gear. There should be some play, but not enough that it skips teeth or would rip them off. I have tried several gear mesh settings and all have the same result. Right now it is as you suggest, a little bit of play but no chance of skipping teeth. Guy at LHS suggested using a 10T due to the altitude here (~6200 ft). Bought one but haven't tried it yet. Still, it isn't performing nearly as well as before the rebuild. Will get some pics up tonight and thanks again for the help. http://www.bladecprepair.com/man_mr_swashplate.html you've probably already done that, but like you said, your problem is probably in your swash or head somewhere. My servo arms do not sit level either for the same reasons. Go ahead and upload some of those pics, and we can look at it to see if we can see anything =) oh yeah, and no prob here with the length of the post. I would much rather see a longer post with all of the info needed, than a 1 liner =) |
RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
ORIGINAL: spike5150 ORIGINAL: mrasmm Thanks mrasmm - have some more info interspersed below - will attempt to get some pics up tonight. yeah, it sounds like something is off, and it sounds like you are right in the trouble spot. The neg collective should be the same as the positive -12 or 13, and you said you are only getting 6. I would also make sure to use some 3 in 1 to lube the swash and the shaft and the main bearings, and work it out so you can get rid of that binding. I adjusted the servo linkages on the swash 2 full turns (lowered the swash) so now it is more like 9/16" below the top of the main shaft. This eliminates "bottom out" with full negative collective. Adjusted pitch to now have -12/13 to +12/13 with 0 at midstick. This seems to be 2-3 degs too much, though and bogs down the motor at higher throttle. Now about -1/0 to +12/13 in normal mode. Pitch links are as short as I can get them so no way to remove anymore pitch in normal mode. Seems like this is still too much pitch with no way to adjust it further. I have lubed the swash, but the binding on left/right cyclic is (seems to be) due to too much servo travel/limits of swash pivot. The mainshaft gets pushed (temporarily bent) to the left or right (maybe 1/16" at the top) with full left/right stick. Perhaps it was like this all along and I just never noticed. LHS seems to think so, but who knows. Also check to make sure that your main pinion is not too tight or loose against the main gear. There should be some play, but not enough that it skips teeth or would rip them off. I have tried several gear mesh settings and all have the same result. Right now it is as you suggest, a little bit of play but no chance of skipping teeth. Guy at LHS suggested using a 10T due to the altitude here (~6200 ft). Bought one but haven't tried it yet. Still, it isn't performing nearly as well as before the rebuild. Will get some pics up tonight and thanks again for the help. http://www.bladecprepair.com/man_mr_swashplate.html you've probably already done that, but like you said, your problem is probably in your swash or head somewhere. My servo arms do not sit level either for the same reasons. Go ahead and upload some of those pics, and we can look at it to see if we can see anything =) oh yeah, and no prob here with the length of the post. I would much rather see a longer post with all of the info needed, than a 1 liner =) I am not really familiar with that altitude, I fly mine at 5k feet. I am using flat bottomed blades and an 8T pinion though. As far as the servos pushing the mainshaft from side to side... mine does that too, and has ever since I can remember.... i wonder if they just come that way like you were saying. Is there a problem with your heli as it sits? Or does the way the head is setup just seem wrong? Did the LHS have any good words of wisdom when you took it in? |
RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
[/quote] To me that sounds spot on =) Those are all the angles you want. The stock brushed motor will bog down with full collective because it just doesn't have the juice. That should be better if you get a brushless setup. I am not really familiar with that altitude, I fly mine at 5k feet. I am using flat bottomed blades and an 8T pinion though. As far as the servos pushing the mainshaft from side to side... mine does that too, and has ever since I can remember.... i wonder if they just come that way like you were saying. Is there a problem with your heli as it sits? Or does the way the head is setup just seem wrong? Did the LHS have any good words of wisdom when you took it in? [/quote] Double checked pitch curves tonight and actually it is more like +2/3 at mid stick in idle up and +12/13 to -10/11, so just a little off from being equal. It seems like I need to have a longer lower pitch link (the link to the swash on the blade grip). I may try using an adjustable there. I cannot shorten the upper link any more to get more neg pitch. I am still not sure why I now need to have 9/16" from the top of the main shaft instead of 1/2". Have a few pics of current setup. Another thing that seems out of whack is that when I switch back and forth between norm and idle up, I have to have the throttle one mark towards positive collective for the servos not to move (see pic). At true mid stick the servos move when the switch is flipped. OK - picture upload is not working??? LHS couldn't figure it out. Just seems like something is different with the geometry for the head. Thanks again for taking the time to help out. |
RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
if you just rebult your head every things changes. at least that is what i have been runnig into
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RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
tom235,
someting has definitely changed, but all I did was remove the shear pin, disconnect the swash linkages, remove the mainshaft and everything else from the broken frame and install it on a new frame. I didn't disassemble any of the head components. So I am just a bit baffled. Thanks. |
RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
not sure what to tell you. i have found that if you change one thing you need to recheck it all because something will change. i dont know why that is but that is just the way it is. i thought it was just me.
but after all the pains of learning the ins and outs of the cp pro i got mine flying pretty good. now i can learn how to fly and have some fun thanks to the guy on this forum they know whats up listen to them you will learn alots |
RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
i picked up a file on the fuse mod for the cp pro on this thread, totally saved my 3n1. The tail motor locked up and blew the fuse. I'm sure if i had not put tail and main motor fuses in i would be purchasing another 3n1. I recommend anyone with a CP PRo to add the fuses. Search for the pdf on the fuse mod.
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RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
that's very good news =) save ya 50 bucks
I also just got done making a how to on the fuse mod. If anyone wants to read it and give me feedback on how easy it is to follow and if it makes sense it is available here http://www.heli-max.net/mediawiki/in..._Wiki_Fuse_Mod |
RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
Hey all,
It has been a long time since I posted in this thread. I have been playin around with my bcpp again lately and getting down inverted flight and rolls and loops. Still cant get tail in funnels down[&o] not even close on nose in funnels. Anyways I wadded up my blade the other day real bad in fff upside down and had to really tear into the thing. I had this Orion Slo-Max 300 (http://www.helihobby.com/html/ESKY2.html) motor I have had sitting around for a few months I decided to throw it in and wow. I mean WOW[X(] Does anyone else have any experiance with this motor? I put a 9t from an old stock motor on it and the head spead is insane compared to the stocker with the 9t. Should I be running a 8t on this motor? I will be out to fly it a little later after all of my batt's are charged and will report back. Please anyone who has tried out this motor or a similar one let me know your experiances. Thanks, Noah |
RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
SPIKE 5150
Double checked pitch curves tonight and actually it is more like +2/3 at mid stick in idle up and +12/13 to -10/11, so just a little off from being equal. It seems like I need to have a longer lower pitch link (the link to the swash on the blade grip). I may try using an adjustable there. I cannot shorten the upper link any more to get more neg pitch. I am still not sure why I now need to have 9/16" from the top of the main shaft instead of 1/2". Have a few pics of current setup. Another thing that seems out of whack is that when I switch back and forth between norm and idle up, I have to have the throttle one mark towards positive collective for the servos not to move (see pic). At true mid stick the servos move when the switch is flipped. OK - picture upload is not working??? LHS couldn't figure it out. Just seems like something is different with the geometry for the head. |
RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
1 Attachment(s)
noguy,
Thanks for the input. If I set the top of the swash to 1/2" from top of mainshaft with the servo pushrods I can't get full range of travel on the head - have to set it at 9/16" to get full travel. I realize this messes up the pitch range. What would happen if I used some upper pitch links in the position of the lower pitch links (so both are adjustable) to replace the fixed length links that connect the swash to the bell/hiller mixer arm. I have been over and over the geometry and it seems to me that I need to have a longer lower link to get more negative pitch. I have no clue why the geomerty has changed, but I'll keep at it. Thanks! |
RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
spike5150,
It seems like you have a good understanding of how this hli is supposed to work and are aware that things are out of wack somewhere that shouldn't be. I would advise that if you can take your heli and your calipers, or whatever you are taking these little measurements with, down to your lhs. See if they will allow you to mess around with a brand new untainted bcpp. Start piece by piece from the servos up and measure and compare part sizes and linkage range of motion until you find your trouble maker. I see you have a swash upgrade. possibly you obtained one that is a little off on the specs. Cheap plastic crap is also not the best material for producing thousands and thousands of little parts at a high level of acuracy. One part in your head that is a little long or short....sorry im rambling.....My point is- When troubleshooting there is no better method than having a control subject to compare your troubled heli to. Find another properly functioning bcpp. Start with the range of motion and response characteristics of the servos and when you are sure the 2 helis radio and electronics act the same move on up in order piece by piece through the head. From the servo arms, to the servo/swash links, to the swash....ect. and compare and contrast each part along the way and you will find something different between the two heli's. Good luck, Noah |
RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
Thanks noguy,
That's a great idea. I think the LHS will let me do that. You're absolutely right, I don't know if I will every figure it out unless I have a "correct" one to compare it to. Jeremy |
RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
OK... I typed a long story of my problem but my Internet explorer froze so I lost it. Here is the short of my story. I have not posted for a very long time. I bought a BL motor and ESC off eBay for cheap. (non-brand name) And I believed it did not work so I bought an Align 35A ESC and tried it and the same thing. Motor vibrates then stops. I realized that maybe 20A could not get though the alligator test leads I was using so I tested the ohms and found that they each had 1 ohm resistance, so there was 2 ohms for power to go though. That means that only about 5A could get through. I went to my LHS and got bullet connectors and WOW that motor is amazing! Now all I need is a T-Rex, I don't think my Blade CP Pro could take the extra weight and RPM. How much can the Blade CP Pro take?
The motor is for a T-Rex. I am back! finally |
RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
I hate when IE does that =P
I started typing my long posts in word so that if the computer dumps or the power goes out I've still got a back up of it. I'm not sure what you mean by what it can take.... a pretty hot motor on this heli is the park 4100kv, and you can probably get off the ground with close to 500g (stock is about 300g) of weight and a nice powerful brushless motor (no 3d though). |
RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
discloading isn't like wing loading necessarily. with planes my mission is often to fly the biggest motor i can land. with helis it's different: find someone who can fly really good, and use what he prefers. hope this offers some insight...
-kev |
RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
I wanted to know how much force the head can take before parts break from high RPM. The battry is dubble the stock's weight but almost tripple the capacity. (2000mAh 20C burst 15C cont.)
I have no doubt that the BL motor could lift the heli I just dont know if the heli's frame, mainly the head, could take it. Thanks, Justin |
RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
I returned my BCPP to stock (except DX6). I tied earlier to use a new 2A speed control with my G500T gyro and the speed control fried. After clearing the smoke... I realized I had a bad servo that was shorted some how. So I replaced it and now I am going to try it out after like 3-4 months. Wish me luck.
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RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
Good luck =)
As far as the head, it would probably depend on the weight of the blades you have on it and all of that, but I bet something like 2800 rpm with the stock syms or so. |
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