RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

RC heli recently listed a ballpark max headspeed for micros at 3000. I'll bet that's conservative though, because lots of guys run their trex's that fast.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

I just flew it and no crashes. The only problem was low lift. I increased the pitch to about 10-11 degrees and it help a bit. It hovers at around 3/4 throttle and at full it climbs at around 5ft/s maybe more. Other than that if flew pretty nice for stock.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Comander bob,

If you want a cheap and simple extra boost of power throw a team orion Slow-maxx 300 brushed motor in there.

[link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMRK3&P=7[/link]

Only $11 and the head speed with a 9t is great over the stock motor and has much more torque for full pitch.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

any idea what the amp draw on that motor is?

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

I need some help with the slow max 300. Do you have do do any soldering on the motor? Or can you just plug it into where the old motor is and just fly it. Thanks for your help.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

I may do that. I am going to get a T-Rex 450SA so if I have any cash left over maybe. Thanks.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Just make sure you don't run your li-pos too low, I did that recently and ruined one of my batts, but luckily I have two more to play with :D

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

guys,
I bought a 370 brushless motor and ESC for my Venom night ranger 3D. I quickly discovered, however, that the green weenie didn't deserve the motor. I'd like to put it in my CPP but am a little shy about the project because the blade manual goes through specific steps for cutting a wire, etc, and I don't know how to be sure to make the process match this gear from Venom. Sorry for being such a girl. Can anyone steer me in the right direction?

Thanks!

Dave

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

does anyone know the lift capacity(payload) of the stock Pro vs Brushless(370 park) powered CP's?

I would like to attach a digital camera and didn't know if the CPP with the upgrade could handle the extra 5 oz's

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

If you still want to use the 3-in-1 you need to take out the red wire of your new ESC. This disables the BEC (the BEC uses 5V to power the Rx and servos). If you still want to use the 3-in-1 you need to also get a spliter to split the JST connector from the battery, to power both units. Also you need to get the servo splitter so the 3-in-1's BEC can still power the Rx.

If you don't want to use the 3-in-1 any more, eg. you have your own gyro and tail ESC, then all you have to do is make sure you are using only one BEC (the tail ESC can not have one, or you can disable it by taking out the red wire.) This is what I was going to do but fried my 2A ESC when I had a dead servo. (shorted the ESC)

If you have any more questions just ask.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

If you had a real light heli (ie like the stock 298g) then yeah you could get a brushless and lift the 5oz or 141g with the cpp. You couldn't do anything fancy though, just basically hover. People that upgrade to the cnc everything and like the belt drive and all of that are running an AUW of about 450g, so I would say you would be ok.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

I took my blade to my school today for the first time. I have only flow it in my back yard. The wind was about 5MPH (something I am not used to) I took it up about 50ft took it away around 100ft and then it was hit with a gust of wind. I saved it but not smoothly. I tried to land it and when it looked good (it is still 100ft away) I cut the throttle. I see it flip over like a fish.

Luckily only the shear pin and the tail boom broke. It likes like a blade strike from the position and the cleanness of the break. No other parts were damaged so only a $4-$5 crash.

Could of been much worse.

L8Braker: I don't think the stock brushed motor could take much more weight. I have the DD motor and it has a poor climb rate. The brush-less would probably work, never used it though.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

If someone doesnt mind spending a little time running me through the process for repairs:

I managed to bend the spindle after getting a little carried away in the latter stages of RADD and am having a few issues replacing it.

I have removed the blades and have removed one of the screws from the side of the blade grips however this is where I get stuck. Nothing seems to be removable without stripping the whole head. I looked at the blade repair site however this only shows the blade and doesnt have the same components.

Do I need to pull it all apart or is there another way.

All help greatly appreciated.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

sorry man =( you're gona have to pull it apart. Take the mixer arms off (you can leave the links to the arm connected), and take the flybar pitch control hoops (not the real term, but the hoops that go around the blade grips) off of the links they are on top and bottom, and that should be enough to get the spindle out =) Just watch the washers, and make sure you put the small step of the stepped washers facing the bearings.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

once you get the grips off one side you can grab the spindle with needle nose and hold it while you under the other grip with the allen wrench.

Thanks for the replys guys I may just sell my week old CP Pro and get a Trex 450. I was hoping the Brushless setup would really pick it up, but I don't want to tax it too much.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

HELP,
I have the brushless motor from E-flite along with the ESC. All of the sudden, the ESC break came on. Now every time you pull the throttle down, the blades stop suddenly. The ESC book tells you how to shut the break off, but with blade, if the throttle is in any position besides all the way down it will not arm. How are you supposed to set the ESC when when it will not arm during start up with the throttle at hafe position?
Please help

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Do those hoops (I think they are called paddle control frame pushrods on the schematic) just clip off or is there a method to remove them? If I can get them off I think it will all sort of come together and I will be able to do the rest.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

You need to turn the break off and you want a smooth shut down. To program the speed controller just unplug the main motor from it while you are programing.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

The problem is to program the the ESC, You must give it hafe throttle when you first plug in you battery, the receiver will not arm if the throttle is not all the way down when you plug it in and therfore, I cant get the ESC to program mode.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

yeah, that's the name of them. I can never remember =P it's kind of a long name. You can get some ball link pliers if you want to, but basically just pull on them gently until they come off. It will feel like you are going to break it, but you'll probably be fine =) They work loose after a few times and you wont have to pull nearly so hard.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

The reciver won't arm or the 3-in-1 won't. I don't think the reciver arms. All you need to do is 1. Use the BEC from you BL ESC or 2. make your own battry pack. Once you have power (unplug the 3-in-1 completly) you should be able to program it. Hope this helps.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

My Main Motor has absolutley no power, and it will barely lift me off the ground. Is this beause my main motor is wearing out and is ready to be replaced? Or is soemthign wrong with the heli. If it is the motor, anybody that has a Team Orion slow max 300, could you tell me how logn the fligths are with that motor and how powerful it is, and/or how long it lasts compared to stock motor? Thanks for your help!:)

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Yep, that would be my guess!:D

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Whats the best gyro for the blade cp pro? Will a futaba gy240 work? My LHS quit selling parts for my Axe CP and now Im getting the Blade CP Pro.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

I was talking to one of the guys at the LHS and he was saying, for the Blade CP Pro and other micro's, it's not good to get an advanced Gyro. The reason for this is that the gyro's are too sensitive and are really over adjusting for the electric motors. This creates a heli which is very difficult to fly. The electronic motors are just not that advance like other larger heli's.

On another note, I just configured my Futaba 9cap for my Blade CP Pro. Let me tell you the difference is unbelievable. After a few weeks of struggling with hovering, I was able to lift the heli off and hold it in place fairly well. I was actually having a good time and was able to go through one lipo charge without any oh cr@p moments. My recommendation to other that are having the same struggle is upgrade the radio! Plus, you will not have to buy a new one when you move into the larger Heli's. The cost to move into a new T-Rex is now only 400 or so instead of 900+.

In order to quickly do the swap I bought the variable freq module and plugged it in. All I have to do is rotate the correct freq, switch to the heli I want and whala. I am off and flying.