Cobalt Saber

hey,

does anybody know what kind of glue I can use to fix my havocs landing hear? it has a tear in it and is almost falling off....

thanks,

-Matthew

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

Hi Matthew, I haven't seen you around for a while. You can use elmers or rubber cement. I use a product called zap a dap goo 2, for foam. It only comes in a large container though.

Tim

Cobalt Saber

I know I had to return my havoc (My cat destroyed both mine and my bros) So I got the one that has the bobble cockpit

It is much quiter than the standard havoc and WAY more stable. only down side is I had to get channel A [:@] Still great though.


-Matthew

Teenage Pilot 14

Well, I haven't seen this thread around for awhile... As long as it's here I guess I'll say that I just got home from Target with my Havoc/Picco/etc. and I'm already enjoying a whole load. I've got at least one question, possibly more coming.

So when I throttle up to anywhere under about 50% it makes a funny meat grinder noise and it vibrates real bad but past there it runs like a Swiss watch. Why? And how do I fix it. I'm thinking blade tracking but maybe I'm wrong...

Also, is the tail shaft size the same as the good ole Aero Ace? I may try putting an AA prop on the tail.

And finally, for anyone who doesn't have a big, programmable lipo charger but wants to wall-charge their micros, try this: On RaidenTech and ebay and such you can often find 2- or 3-channel micro helis with wall chargers included. I bought one of them like three years ago and after it was dead and gone I turned its charger into a wall charger for my AAs by cutting a charge lead off one of their txs and splicing it to the charger's cord. Easy and cheap. For multiple types of charge sockets just put a JST, Micro Deans, or similar plug on the charger and make adapters as needed. Saves on Tx batts I guess

Cobalt Saber/Zero- Use foam-safe CA or, if you don't wan't to spend $10 on 2oz of glue, a SMALL, TINY, TINY, SHRIMPY, DIMINUTIVE drop of hot glue. Works great on this type of foam but it gets heavy fast. As far as cat issues go, mine generally hide when they see my with a transmitter. Too many run-ins with my DF#4, Axe CP, and/ or Micro Mosquito I think

Teenage Pilot 14

Tim, I don't even want to wonder where the inspiration for your glue's name came from, and why did they inflict the name on a SECOND incarnation of the product?[:'(]

Cobalt Saber

all of them make the "grinding" noise. to help with the vibration, you could do the beed mod or put ball bearings the heli for the rotar shaft to go into......

Teenage Pilot 14

Eh, I'll give it a few days before I go chopping into it, I guess[8D] Rest assured, it will happen eventually!

I removed ALL the unsightly paper stuff from the tail so it was just the bare sticks then I made a new, bigger tail fin out of clear tape. It helps with spinning issues really well. I also used a piece of tape folded of on the tail boom and angled to take advantage of the rotor wash and make the tail motor's job easier. It has a noticeable effect. For nose weight I used a small brass nut from one of the stick potentiometers from an old DF#4 tx. Creative license.... Anyway, I hot glued it on and it flies perfectly, with just enough forward speed to be non-boring but not enough to make flying scary. My wall charger charges the heli in about 5 minutes or so. I'm not sure what the charge rate is because the sticker on the charger fell off during a particularly hot charging session on the original heli. The sticky simply stopped working

I also discovered a whole new side of my Mosquito by using a PicooZ (name change has been noted) tail rotor. Crazy response, so much as to make the rotors hit each other in flight with full forward input[X(] If my brother could fly better (it's true- he can't even fly a PicooZ) we could have full-contact dogfights. The outcome would be interesting considering the Picoo is smaller but the Mosquito is easier to throw off (takes less force to screw it up AND it doesn't recover nearly as easy.)

Cobalt- What's the bead mod? I have SOOOO much learning to do. I'm way behind on micros in general and totally new to the PicooZ/Havoc[X(]

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

Savage Ninja, if you want some serious indoor heli action go get an e-flite blade mcx.

The glue has a crazy name but it work great.

Tim

Cobalt Saber

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=216

Teenage Pilot 14

Tim- If the glue works, they can call it anything they want. The Wright bros used a type of glue called Arnstein to repair a broke prop hub on their Flyer in ~1904 and no one questioned it

Ok, I'm sold on the bead thing and I have all the more reason to try it because my rotor hub jst got all loose after I made an *unplanned emergency landing* BEHIND a couch cushion then leaned against it, simultaneously pressing the tx into my chest and flooring the throttle. Glue is going to be 'installed' there after I put on the bead. It's funny how everything works out.

I also wound up removing the fuse when that happened thinking the main gear was slipping on the shaft. When I couldn't get the original fuse back on I fab'd one in about 5 minutes. The heli flew like a rocket both forward and up but it spun almost uncontrollably, forcing me to rethink the original fuse. I later discovered that the tail rotor was loose so the other fuse may still have a shot.

Teenage Pilot 14

Uh-oh. The heli won't charge and I can't find why. The wall charger works fine but the heli won't accept a charge. The tx charger light comes on when I plug it in but only for a blink. Help? Also, the wall charger has an LED that turns OFF when charging starts and ON when it ends or nothing is plugged into it. I plug it into the heli and the light turns off. Well, the heli batt is like 50mAh and this thing has a charge rate of like 500ma. I can do math and I'm pretty sure it doesn't take 1/2 an hour to fill that batt. Light go off but light don't wanna turn on[&:] Wiggling the plug in the charge socket makes the light flash on and off so it seems like a loose/broken connection.

I'm especially worried because I already burned the box.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, as I don't have $25.09 for another one at the moment. Also, if it's a batt problem, I have lots of extra lipo cells laying around, ranging from 40 to 380mAh so it's not a problem.

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

It is probably a dead battery.

Teenage Pilot 14

Ok, well, looks like some wiring and (cough) upgrading is on the agenda for today. That and studying for (AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!) finals. No biggie, though, as my tiny wire-handling skills are top-notch. I just wish I hadn't cut my fingernails last night. They're my natural wire strippers I'll be using a stock Aero Ace batt for the replacement so as to cut down on useless weight (more of the batt weight will be used for forward flight. The nut, on the other hand, was totally dead, useless weight and no one likes that).

If I didn't say so before, I kind of abused the little chopper all day yesterday, following a repeated charge-fly pattern without resting or letting the batt cool off. The poor thing probably just couldn't take it. I even deep-cycled it because capacity seemed to have dropped noticeably, giving me only a few laps around the living room as apposed to the 50+ per charge I normally got.

Teenage Pilot 14

Well, the replacement went smoothly but the Ace batt was too big. I couldn't've even cut out more foam because it went past the edges of the fuse and I didn't want to make a new one. My FlyTech Dragonfly's batt fit perfect and it started out so dead the LED in the heli didn't even come on. It sat unused and uncharged on a shelf for upwards of 8 months and it died completely. It's charging nicely now, though, so only time will tell how well it works at this point. It's slightly smaller than the stock cell so I've lost some flight time, but vertical performance should increase microscopically.

My brother (the bad pilot) liked mine so much he just bought his own. He's only 11 but he has a dog-walking job that brings in WAY more money than he knows what to do with. $25.09 was nothing for him. I'm trying to teach him to fly (a real R/C heli) and convince him to get a DF#4 but he's not too sure yet.

I think my batt was actually a dud from the start because his is far more powerful than mine ever was. Well, mine's charging right now and it's almost done. I'll report the test results in a little while.

Teenage Pilot 14

Is this a one-man thread? I have three straight posts in more than 2 days!

Anywho, I fixed my problem without you sorry peoples' help I decided that instead of fiddling with the board, I'd just bypass the whole charge circuit. I put a standard JST 2-pin connector through the left side of the heli's fuse and wired it directly to the batt. I put a matching connector on my wall charger and tested it. It worked. Of course, the FlyTech batt couldn't handle it for whatever reason and it puffed up like a water balloon! That one ended up in the fireplace earlier today. I just had to try it and I figured since those stone walls had contained more energy in a second than a batt five times this size uses in it's entire lfe, it should be able to handle the blast. Nice greenish flames AND a cool sound! And that's the LAST time I mess with an angry lipo! Too much power in too tiny a package to take lightly, folks. DON'T MESS WITH LIPOS! EVER!

Since then I've reattached the stock batt and, following a fuselage-ripping-in-half-during-surgery incident, I'm now flying a heli that's got 3/4 of it's normal fuse and the front right 1/4 from the on/off switch forward is just clear tape The guts are plainly visible, but the whole Terminator look kinda works...

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

Here, I will help you out with your one man thread thing.
I used to have a picco Z about a year ago. Threw it away about 6 months ago. It got to where it wouldn't fly with out spinning out of control.
End of story
Besides, it sounds like you are handeling this thread by your self pretty good

jyskarzi

Hi there!

I read Teenage Pilot 13's posts... and I seem to have a similar issue: At first, everything worked fine (except for the regular counter-clockwise rotation, which was corrected after pressing 30 times on the right trim button)

But 2 days later, I was only able to flight for about 30 sec before the battery went out. At first, I though I abused the poor thing, by flying and recharging without waiting the recommended 10-15 minutes in between. But this morning, with bran new batteries in the transmitter, I cannot even turn this one to ON ! (the on/off light never comes on ) So the problem is obviously not in the helicopter but really in the transmitter (or my new AA Alcaline 1.5v batteries ?)

Anyway, anybody experienced something similar ? Maybe I could return it for refound (I've had it for 3 days only). But if it's my fault... I would love to know what I did wrong.

Thanks guys!

jyskarzi

OK, forget about my last post... My "NEW" batteries were dud.
I replace them and everything works fine now.

Also, I added small wings on the nose, so the more I give thrust, the more the helicopter move forward (the air blown from the main rotor pushes the nose down)... But I lost stability, especially when landing, any Idea ?

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

You might try a smaller set of wings or a small nose addition.

Tim

Here's a vid of the next step up. I've been fying this heli for a couple of months now. It's an e-flite mcx. http://www.badiusownersclub.com/video/mcx%20vid%205.wmv

Tim

jyskarzi

Geez thanks! Yours is much more stable than mine! LOL

And you seem to be able to controll forward speed better than I do. Is it Pilot skill, or does your transmitter have a third channel for forward movement ?

Anyway, thanks, I'm pretty new here, it's my first RC helicopter, and English is my second language (so you might guess I'm having a hard time figuring out what all the technical words mean) ... so it feels good to have an answer! ;-)

BYE