cmoulder

Glen,

That's always the way it goes for me as well... I think I'm almost done and then it takes about twice as long as expected for the finishing details.

No rush; better to get it right the first time and encounter no surprises.

Funny (and good) thing is, when I think I'm done I still use a checklist that is printed in the assembly instructions for Great Planes models. Years ago I rushed the assembly of a U Can Do and crashed 5 seconds into the maiden flight because the aileron direction was reversed. Now, I find that if each item in the checklist is addressed thoroughly there is little chance of problems arising.

I have 30 flights on the Sickle and am really enjoying it. With no mixes it is already extremely good on up and down verticals and right and left KE. Slight tuck to the gear on left rudder and VERY slight pull to the canopy on downlines. Tracks very nicely when pulling or pushing corners. Rolls are very axial as long as I keep the speed up, as "Coach" Anthony R constantly reminds me. I have not even bothered with mixes up to this point because I have an Airtronics SD-10G on the way and plan to switch over to that system as soon as I get it.

Hope to see yours soon, especially the photos of your motor mount!

burtona

My Feedback: (50)

Question for other Sickle builders. Did you use any stab attachment other than the set screws in the incidence adjusters to hold the stab in place. I was thinking I should drill a couple of holes through the bottom of the stab into the tube and lock in place with small screws. No instruction on this (or anything else for that matter) were included.

cmoulder

Hmm... can't say I get the message for this!

Did you maiden yours yet, Dave? Seems you have had more decent weather opportunities down South than we've had up here.

cmoulder

If you run your fingers over the bottom of the stabs in the area where the stab tube runs, you will find some pre-drilled holes. I used some socket-head servo screws that screw into the stab tube, which has some wood plugs in the ends for this purpose.

burtona

My Feedback: (50)

Had to change computers. keyboard crapped out after I spilled some beer on it last night. Had to edit the post.
I have flown mine one short flight to see if I was close on the CG before permanently fixing the battery tray in place. I plan to take it out Thursday and get a couple more flights on it. I had to swap motors with my Integral (replaced the HiMaxx with the Pletty 30-10) to save about 1.5 oz. to make legal weight for the Nats. Once I get it trimmed I'll put it away untill close to the Nats.
Dave

cmoulder

There must be some considerable weight differences from kit to kit because mine comes in a good 10 oz under the weight limit, right now about 4720 grams!

If you need to cut more weight, the Falcon CF props are more than 2oz lighter than APC.

Which batteries are you using?

Mastertech

My Feedback: (31)

Mine was one of the first kits, it's right at legal limit. I could easily get it to 10/12 by changing batteries and prop.

I just used the stab adjusters to hold the stab on.

I've got a love/hate relationship with this airplane. I love the way it flies but I hate the way it flies, go figure.

The problem I'm having seems to be more centered around the change from glow to electric power and throttle management than anything really to do with the plane.

I'm using HK 5,000 25c packs. For Advance I'm using only about 2800 mah and I tend to fly pretty big so 4,000 mah batteries would easily drop me to near 10.75. Another change would be the prop but I just can't bring myself to pay $75 for a prop yet, though I did buy a $135 spinner, odd.

Only thing I would change on this airplane if I could would be the color scheme and thicken the rudder trailing edge.

I flew my Proline this past weekend to find out if it was me or the airplane I was having problems with,

it was me.

While flying the Proline I had a thought,

"Man this thing sure is noisy and I sure do have to bring a lot more support equipment" Then I bent down to pick the airplane up and instantly got slimed, yuck.

I'm all in electrics now.

burtona

My Feedback: (50)

I'm using the HK Flitemax 15C 5,000 packs, Pletty 30-10 EVO, a PT CF 20.5 X 14 prop, modified plastic spinner from World Models with a lightened back plate. RX battery is an 850 mah LiPo with Oddino regulator, Futaba 9650 elevator servos, JR 9411SA aileron, JR 8411SA rudder, CC Ice 80HV ESC, 1/8" liteply battery tray on CF rails similar to what Mastertech did on his. I'm a little under 10 lbs. 15 oz. I don't know where else to save weight short of changing some stuff I really don't want to change (or spend money on). I could take out the RX switch and plug RX battery direct, fly w/o a spinner & backplate if I have too at the Nats. Hope their scales are right - I know mine are because I have a set of certified calibration weights to check them.
Dave

Mastertech

My Feedback: (31)

Dave yours and mine were from the same batch, CM's was likely from a later batch, how they got it any lighter I've no clue as I don't see anywhere to remove any weight from the airframe. I'm running twin reg's and batteries. 3517's on the elev and 4721's on ailerons, 8411SA on the rudder. I suppose I could easily change the aileron servo's to smaller ones but I'm not going to bother. With the new weight limit for Advance being 11 pounds 4 oz (appox) I've no issue making weight.

If I really wanted to spend the extra coin I could save probably close to 1/2 a pound by changing the aileron servo's (2oz), batteries (4oz), prop (20z). That would easily be a $600 cost I'm not willing to spend.

Tim

shepga

I'm heading out to the field now for the maiden.
My AUW with f3aunlimited packs is 4853g. The weight without packs is 3656g.
APC 20.5X14 prop
carbon fiber spinner
(2 )36" extension cables (I'm using all pwr & signal wires)
AeroTech dual battery reg with switch
Castle HV85
Panel mount arming plug (12AWG wire)
Series Battery Connection cable 12AWG (Ties (2) 5s in series, I need this because I use the Celpro PL8 charger)
(2) 480mah receiver packs
1/8" plywood nose ring motor mount
I chose not to use any carbon fiber sheets for servo tray, battery tray or nose ring motor mount.

Glen

shepga

By the way, as Bob mentioned there are hard points in the stab for a small screw to go into the stab tube. You have acces to the hard point from the top or the bottom. You just have to locate it through the covering.

OK now I'm off to the field for the maiden. Or... I could just sit hear and stall.... naww I'm outta here!

Glen

cmoulder

Too bad you can't charge the batts while leaving them in series. That might save you more than an ouce right there, depending on which harness you're using.

I decided to use the MPI power pole arming switch, but cut the ESC and battery connectors off and simply soldered it into one of the ESC leads. Total weight penalty after that was 14 grams vs the 32 grams without the mod.

Good luck on the maiden!

cmoulder

Glen, Dave or Tim,

Do any of you have a 6x12 sheet of lite ply to weigh? I have one uncut sheet each of the balsa CF sandwich and the Nomex honeycomb CF sheet and would like to compare the weights to see what the difference is.

I realize we have different sizes and/or cutouts for our firewalls, servo decks and battery trays, but at least we could get an idea about the relative weights of the materials.

Doug Cronkhite

My Feedback: (34)

Thickening the trailing edge is easy. You can add some small triangle stock to achieve the same effect you're looking for. As for the power delivery, most electrics are shy on power until the last 30% of stick travel. It takes a pretty severe throttle curve to get them close to linear power delivery. Once you have it setup though.. man it's nice!

Mastertech

My Feedback: (31)

Right Doug, I have some small triangle stock all ready to tape on it.

You're correct on the throttle, it took me a lot of flights to get the throttle settled down, now it's just getting used to the application thereof.

Tim

cdodom

doubt this will help but I was just browsing on a Japanese F3A site and saw this. Triangle stock is shown in one of the pictures

http://www.excite-webtl.jp/world/eng...=JAEN&wb_dis=2

shepga

I got one 4 minute flight on the Sickle this afternoon. Before the flight I had one of my pattern buddies help me check the balance. It turned out to be way to nose heavy whith the batteries in the location I had them. We moved the batteries as far back as as the mounting plate would allow and still be secured but it was still nose heavy. I determined it was safe to fly it so I got the maiden out of the way. I've got to rework the battery placement to get them further back. Here are some photo's the last one is the location of the batteries when I flew.

Glen

shepga

Here are some pix of my Sickle

Glen

cmoulder

Congrats, Glen! You look happy!

Looks as if your batteries are going to end up about where mine are.

cmoulder

Wow, that is some mondo triangle stock!

Seems a little over-the-top, no??

cdodom

Thats what I thought

I dont know Japanese so I cant really understand what his main goal was by reading the captions.

Looking through the site you can see how innovative the Japanese really are. They have always blown me away with how neat and clean their setups are in their planes.

mups53

My Feedback: (41)

Beautiful plane. I miss my Sickle!!!! Mike

cmoulder

[link=http://www.vit.or.jp/~tomo/gami/souzya196/souzya196.html]More[/link] of the Japanese stuff... reportedly Onda's model he will fly at Muncie. Scroll down and check out the rudder.

cmoulder

Mike,

I think you would really like V-2. Much easier to get it nice and light. With the right doo-dads and application of a little more moolah the weight could be gotten down to maybe 10lb flat. Mine is 10lb 6 oz, and with a YGE ESC and some CF wheel pants it would be 10lb 3oz. Lighter batteries and motor and it could be under 10 lbs. More moolah!

However, I wish there were a couple of options for the color scheme. In any event, a great flying model.

Doug Cronkhite

My Feedback: (34)

All these really thick rudders have me curious as to the reasoning or goal they're trying to achieve with them. What issue is being solved by doing this? Is it to help airflow stay attached, or are they counting on the drag created at the rearmost point on the aircraft to have a pitch/yaw stabilizing effect? I understand the aerodynamics of WHAT it does, I'm just curious as to the why.