BRIO Electric 10-size
#251
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RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
I imagine my first few flights will be without the spinner unless anyone knows of some way to mount it.
As far as a different type spinner, there does not seem to be any extra room to fit a back plate behind the prop and have enough threads to hold it on.
As far as a different type spinner, there does not seem to be any extra room to fit a back plate behind the prop and have enough threads to hold it on.
I have the same motor and an APC prop in mine (I think it's an 11x7) and remember cutting out the spinner to get the prop to fit. You won't need to cut out as much as it seems you will. I cut 2 notches just to the flat part of the backplate and there were just enough threads left on the shaft to get the nut all the way on.
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RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
I run with just a rounded hub similar to the one that came with the Brio 10. Only, I use the one that uses set-screws rather than the collet (seems more secure and reliable). As to warps, just a warning to inspect. I noticed that the ailerons on the Brio 10 on the cover of Backyard Flyer a few months back was warped. Obviously that is a staged picture as that plane sould not fly well with that much warp. Having said that, the Brio is one of the best constructed kits I have seen. I originally had an E-flite 480 but replaced it with the E-flight Power 10. I can practice the full masters pattern with it with ease and seldom use full throttle even with a good wind.
#253
RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
ORIGINAL: RoyR
Thank you for your quick answer.
I don't mean to be a bother but I have another question
I bought the Park 480 motor. Recommended were APC props, I started with 11X5.5
Using the prop adaptor that came with the motor and the spinner supplied in the Brio Kit, there is no way the spinner back plate will fit over the prop. The design of the APC prop holds the spinner back plate too far forward to even put the nut on the shaft. As far as I can tell, the instructions with the airplane seem to show an APC prop, but there is no way (I can find) to use the spinner. I imagine my first few flights will be without the spinner unless anyone knows of some way to mount it.
As far as a different type spinner, there does not seem to be any extra room to fit a back plate behind the prop and have enough threads to hold it on.
Thank you for your quick answer.
I don't mean to be a bother but I have another question
I bought the Park 480 motor. Recommended were APC props, I started with 11X5.5
Using the prop adaptor that came with the motor and the spinner supplied in the Brio Kit, there is no way the spinner back plate will fit over the prop. The design of the APC prop holds the spinner back plate too far forward to even put the nut on the shaft. As far as I can tell, the instructions with the airplane seem to show an APC prop, but there is no way (I can find) to use the spinner. I imagine my first few flights will be without the spinner unless anyone knows of some way to mount it.
As far as a different type spinner, there does not seem to be any extra room to fit a back plate behind the prop and have enough threads to hold it on.
kc
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RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
ORIGINAL: mystar46
RoyR,
I have the same motor and an APC prop in mine (I think it's an 11x7) and remember cutting out the spinner to get the prop to fit. You won't need to cut out as much as it seems you will. I cut 2 notches just to the flat part of the backplate and there were just enough threads left on the shaft to get the nut all the way on.
RoyR,
I have the same motor and an APC prop in mine (I think it's an 11x7) and remember cutting out the spinner to get the prop to fit. You won't need to cut out as much as it seems you will. I cut 2 notches just to the flat part of the backplate and there were just enough threads left on the shaft to get the nut all the way on.
From my questions you would think this is my first airplane. I imagine I have built hundreds of models over the years.
It's funny that I have no problems making things work in a kit, but this is a different ballgame for me.
Once I get the spinner fitted, about all I have left to do is adjust the control linkages, charge the battery, and fly.
#255
RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
Well I finally got the brio on the table for assm.. First thing I noticed was the left aileron was warped bad. I tried to heat it and straighten it with no luck. I contacted horizon and they sent me 2 new wings. I was impressed with that but it is funny that the 2 new wings were warped to. Is there an easy fix for this? I would love to fix it myself rather than ask for a new set. I have the tools, just need the "know how". Any advise would be great and appreciated. Also would it be better to can the power 10 and get the 480? I am not a pro flyer by any means. I just want it to fly gracefully at first.
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RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
finally finished my brio build, what a mess. it better fly really well for the crap i had to do to get it in flying shape. auw is at 31.3oz, heavyweight indeed. this looks like its build to crash, not fly. hope to report something positive soon~
~jon
~jon
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RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
I have had my Brio for close to a 6 months now, i like the way it flies but was wanting more power than the 480 was giving me.
I thought of putting the e-flite power 10 but ended up putting this motor on the plane.
Welgard C3536-05 Brushless Outrunner Motor
No. of Cells: 2 - 3 Li-Poly
Kv: 1520 RPM/V
Max Current: 34A Continuous
38A for 60S
Max Watts: 400W
Weight: 107.8 g / 3.8 oz
Size: 35 mm x 36 mm
Shaft Diameter: 4mm
Poles: 14
Model Weight: 900 - 1200 g / 31.7 - 42.3 oz
The reason I went with this motor was its higher KV rating over the e-flite motor. I'm going to give the A123 Racing Li-ions a try and the higher KV should help with the lower nominal voltage of the 3 cell A123 Li-ion.
My AUW is 34.5oz w/2300 a123 Racing Li-ion.
The static motor test was 330 watts input at 36 amps with the APC 12x6E.
There in that second pic I added a aluminum strip under the landing gear to reinforce it for the extra weight. I think everyone that owns this plane will agree the gear is the biggest weak spot on this bird. Placing the aluminum strip under the gear really has stiffened the gear quite well.
Hopefully the weather will break here and I can get this plane in the air.
Jerry.
I thought of putting the e-flite power 10 but ended up putting this motor on the plane.
Welgard C3536-05 Brushless Outrunner Motor
No. of Cells: 2 - 3 Li-Poly
Kv: 1520 RPM/V
Max Current: 34A Continuous
38A for 60S
Max Watts: 400W
Weight: 107.8 g / 3.8 oz
Size: 35 mm x 36 mm
Shaft Diameter: 4mm
Poles: 14
Model Weight: 900 - 1200 g / 31.7 - 42.3 oz
The reason I went with this motor was its higher KV rating over the e-flite motor. I'm going to give the A123 Racing Li-ions a try and the higher KV should help with the lower nominal voltage of the 3 cell A123 Li-ion.
My AUW is 34.5oz w/2300 a123 Racing Li-ion.
The static motor test was 330 watts input at 36 amps with the APC 12x6E.
There in that second pic I added a aluminum strip under the landing gear to reinforce it for the extra weight. I think everyone that owns this plane will agree the gear is the biggest weak spot on this bird. Placing the aluminum strip under the gear really has stiffened the gear quite well.
Hopefully the weather will break here and I can get this plane in the air.
Jerry.
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RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
ORIGINAL: imfly1234
finally finished my brio build, what a mess. it better fly really well for the crap i had to do to get it in flying shape. auw is at 31.3oz, heavyweight indeed. this looks like its build to crash, not fly. hope to report something positive soon~
~jon
finally finished my brio build, what a mess. it better fly really well for the crap i had to do to get it in flying shape. auw is at 31.3oz, heavyweight indeed. this looks like its build to crash, not fly. hope to report something positive soon~
~jon
Service_dude: I also would like the hear the results with the A123 cells on this bird. With the higher KV motor it should help but, i think 3 cells will be a tad small. who knows!!
#262
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RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
Nathan,
I have maybe 20 flights on my Brio with the a123's. The 3 cell a123 seems to be a good match for this motor. I am using a 11x7 APC sport prop on the plane, i'm pulling around 34 amps static with 36 oz of measured thrust. I have tried a few different props and the 11x7 seem to be the best so far. An APC 12x6E was pulling 36 amps static and 40 oz thrust. I tried an APC 11x10 pattern also and it drew just under 40 amps but I did not notice any gain in the air speed of the plane.
One thing I'm changing on the plane is the wheel size. Going with the 3 in. mpi maxx wheels. I have my CC35 set to a 6.6 volt LVC. When you use up the charge on these a123's the charge falls off a cliff. I had to dead stick the plane and land on the grass at the field I fly at, and the 1 3/4 in. wheels I was using did not get the job done.
Anyways, I'm happy with how the plane flies. I'm getting 7 minute flight times and the 15 minute charge time on the a123 is great.
I have maybe 20 flights on my Brio with the a123's. The 3 cell a123 seems to be a good match for this motor. I am using a 11x7 APC sport prop on the plane, i'm pulling around 34 amps static with 36 oz of measured thrust. I have tried a few different props and the 11x7 seem to be the best so far. An APC 12x6E was pulling 36 amps static and 40 oz thrust. I tried an APC 11x10 pattern also and it drew just under 40 amps but I did not notice any gain in the air speed of the plane.
One thing I'm changing on the plane is the wheel size. Going with the 3 in. mpi maxx wheels. I have my CC35 set to a 6.6 volt LVC. When you use up the charge on these a123's the charge falls off a cliff. I had to dead stick the plane and land on the grass at the field I fly at, and the 1 3/4 in. wheels I was using did not get the job done.
Anyways, I'm happy with how the plane flies. I'm getting 7 minute flight times and the 15 minute charge time on the a123 is great.
#263
RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
thanks for the update. I am ready to maiden mine finally. Just waiting on a new canopy. It was cracked right out of the box.....didn't even notice until I needed to put it on.
#264
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RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
Anyone got any hints fitting the tail braces?
Where the heck do you fit them and how?
Kind regards
Nigel Smith
Where the heck do you fit them and how?
Kind regards
Nigel Smith
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RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
Yes. I know they go below the stab
what I mean is. Are there any fitting points, like holes or anything or are they simply wedged then glued.
what I mean is. Are there any fitting points, like holes or anything or are they simply wedged then glued.
#267
RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
no fixing points just cut a small hole in the covering so the glue gets a good bond with the balsa, i glued mine to just the covering to start with and they pulled the covering away from the balsa so i cut the small holes and glued directly to the stab and that solved that, at the fuselage i did drill a hole the size of the carbon and inserted them slightly into the fuse for more support.
kc
kc
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RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
All,
Just finished mine in stock configuration.
1. Castle Creation Phoenix 35 ESC
2. E-flite 480 Brushless
3. Dualsky 2250 Li-Po 3S
4. JR 285 digitals all round
5. Pull Pull on the rudder
6. Corona Dual Conv 6 channel receiver
7. Airtronics Stylus.
I'll get the watt meter out and take some measurments but before that .......wow what a pain the A__ plane this was to build. They give you everything but wow what a hassle. The carbon fiber rods for the tail were not a big deal but they sure are easy to mess up. All the fight controls were warped ........BAD....... needed to take the wings and run over them with the truck to straighten them out. Elevator all warped. Who ever thought up the spinner arrangement must of been on crack. Motor mounted ok, landing gear ok, Weight and balance came out surprisingly right on the money. All said and done its a strudy little bugger. Hope to fly it soon gotta do the mothers day thing right now. So what do I need to look for besides double snaps on landings and blowing the canopy off ?
Thanks
jds
Just finished mine in stock configuration.
1. Castle Creation Phoenix 35 ESC
2. E-flite 480 Brushless
3. Dualsky 2250 Li-Po 3S
4. JR 285 digitals all round
5. Pull Pull on the rudder
6. Corona Dual Conv 6 channel receiver
7. Airtronics Stylus.
I'll get the watt meter out and take some measurments but before that .......wow what a pain the A__ plane this was to build. They give you everything but wow what a hassle. The carbon fiber rods for the tail were not a big deal but they sure are easy to mess up. All the fight controls were warped ........BAD....... needed to take the wings and run over them with the truck to straighten them out. Elevator all warped. Who ever thought up the spinner arrangement must of been on crack. Motor mounted ok, landing gear ok, Weight and balance came out surprisingly right on the money. All said and done its a strudy little bugger. Hope to fly it soon gotta do the mothers day thing right now. So what do I need to look for besides double snaps on landings and blowing the canopy off ?
Thanks
jds
#269
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RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
If you have the later version with the two magnets you should be OK with the hatch fitting. Indeed, its so strong now that you could break it just trying to get it off!
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RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
NTSmith,
I have the older version single magnet. However I got three flights today in a 90 degree cross wind. While ground handling leaves a little to be desire the plane took off straight and true. I guess my wing warp removal method worked as there was minimal aileron trim and just a tad of down. Knife edges ok, loops ok rolls a little slow on the low settings, snaps ok on the high setting, the motor makes a really weird sound when snapped in the cowl. Invert ok just a tad of elevator to keep the nose up. Climb is really good at full throttle but she will climb well on just 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. The Corona receiver got bumped a few times almost always in the same place. Don’t know if it’s bad enough to change. I set the plane up to do some harriers and the plane is a bit unstable with no spoileron to counter the wing rock. So I will try to add spoileron next time. The plane handles really well with no bad tendencies, very stable at all speeds I cranked up the throws and the plane was faster on the sticks but not twitchy nor did it have that little plane feel. This plane handled like my 35% Giles just smaller. Landings were sweet with none of the aforementioned low speed snaps. It may be that landing on our long runway makes you keep your foot in the gas longer than if you were in a smaller field. Low speed landings were sweet. All in all it was worth the effort.
This is a great little plane.
JDS
PS I ran the numbers but got side tracked will write them down next time.
I have the older version single magnet. However I got three flights today in a 90 degree cross wind. While ground handling leaves a little to be desire the plane took off straight and true. I guess my wing warp removal method worked as there was minimal aileron trim and just a tad of down. Knife edges ok, loops ok rolls a little slow on the low settings, snaps ok on the high setting, the motor makes a really weird sound when snapped in the cowl. Invert ok just a tad of elevator to keep the nose up. Climb is really good at full throttle but she will climb well on just 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. The Corona receiver got bumped a few times almost always in the same place. Don’t know if it’s bad enough to change. I set the plane up to do some harriers and the plane is a bit unstable with no spoileron to counter the wing rock. So I will try to add spoileron next time. The plane handles really well with no bad tendencies, very stable at all speeds I cranked up the throws and the plane was faster on the sticks but not twitchy nor did it have that little plane feel. This plane handled like my 35% Giles just smaller. Landings were sweet with none of the aforementioned low speed snaps. It may be that landing on our long runway makes you keep your foot in the gas longer than if you were in a smaller field. Low speed landings were sweet. All in all it was worth the effort.
This is a great little plane.
JDS
PS I ran the numbers but got side tracked will write them down next time.
#271
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RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
You seemed to have learnt a lot in a short time anyway. Pleased your canopy stays on. Did you have any issues with the thrust settings. I am not convinced of the need to change my side thrust but certainly it needs some down thrust and yet in iverted flight the trim is just about right. That is, just a little down trim is required. Certainly it climbs like a rocket and the slow speed landing approaches are not too bad. Its normal with the tapered short wing to fly in rather than go for a 3 pointer anyway. I set my throws as per the setting given and agree that the aileron is a little on the slow side which was very much similar to the elevator setting.
I just hope the weather gets better here. It was flown in the rain this morning. But its so lovely and smooth I really enjoyed the flight.
I just hope the weather gets better here. It was flown in the rain this morning. But its so lovely and smooth I really enjoyed the flight.
#272
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RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
Nigel,
You are very observant; now that you mention it YES I did notice on long uplines I had to hold more and more rudder. I too agree this is a thrust issue although I have to admit trimming in a 90 degree crosswind is not really very fair to plane. I will try another day when the wind is down the runway so my readings will be true. I'm a little disappointed in the Corona receiver. I continually got bumped at the north end of the field. I was not babying the equipment I really put the stress test to the range on this and must say that the bumps occur close in not far out. So that’s a mystery to solve. The digital servos performed well as there was no blow back on the big flight control surfaces and with all that carbon fiber in the tail there is no way the thing is going to flutter. At the top of those long uplines you have to come down too with multi rolls, multi snaps, and multi whooshes ...no problems.
The true test is handing this plane over to my ham fisted DA 150 buddy who has two speeds. ON and OFF if he can’t tear it up then it’s a keeper.
LOL
JDS
You are very observant; now that you mention it YES I did notice on long uplines I had to hold more and more rudder. I too agree this is a thrust issue although I have to admit trimming in a 90 degree crosswind is not really very fair to plane. I will try another day when the wind is down the runway so my readings will be true. I'm a little disappointed in the Corona receiver. I continually got bumped at the north end of the field. I was not babying the equipment I really put the stress test to the range on this and must say that the bumps occur close in not far out. So that’s a mystery to solve. The digital servos performed well as there was no blow back on the big flight control surfaces and with all that carbon fiber in the tail there is no way the thing is going to flutter. At the top of those long uplines you have to come down too with multi rolls, multi snaps, and multi whooshes ...no problems.
The true test is handing this plane over to my ham fisted DA 150 buddy who has two speeds. ON and OFF if he can’t tear it up then it’s a keeper.
LOL
JDS
#273
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RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
Very Weak Setup...
Hi Everyone,
I haven't posted to this forum yet, but I am looking for a little insight and possibly some help with my Brio setup. First, here's what i have:
Park 480/1020
Eflite 40A spd control
APC 11x7 eprop
Kokam 3s 1500 20C (about 2 years old)
HS-55's
FMA M5 receiver
(originally forgot to include weight)...30 oz on the money.
I maidened my Brio this past weekend and I barely had enough power to keep it in the air! The takeoff roll was almost 100ft, when it finally got in the air it flew like a DOG and I immediately brought it around (wind was less than 5mph). I had the throttle pegged the whole time to keep enough airspeed to stay aloft. I got it back in one piece, but from everything I have read, this setup should have plenty of power. I am positive that the battery was fully charged. The night before when I ran it up on the bench, it felt weak and the motor didn't seem to wind up as much as I thought it would, but I decided to see if that's just the way it was. So my question is this: Has anyone on this post had any problems with power using either an eflite spd control or kokam packs?
I did swap out the spd control with another (castle creations 25A) that I had laying around and it did exactly the same thing, so I would imagine it is not the spd control. Also the motor seems to be in good shape and spins freely without rubbing or binding without power (except for the minor clocking from the magnets). I am left with the 2~3 year old kokams...does anyone think these could be a problem? It sounds like thunder power is the way to go and I don't have any of those packs yet. Should I try that?
Any help would be greatly appreciated! Sorry for the long post.
Rich
Hi Everyone,
I haven't posted to this forum yet, but I am looking for a little insight and possibly some help with my Brio setup. First, here's what i have:
Park 480/1020
Eflite 40A spd control
APC 11x7 eprop
Kokam 3s 1500 20C (about 2 years old)
HS-55's
FMA M5 receiver
(originally forgot to include weight)...30 oz on the money.
I maidened my Brio this past weekend and I barely had enough power to keep it in the air! The takeoff roll was almost 100ft, when it finally got in the air it flew like a DOG and I immediately brought it around (wind was less than 5mph). I had the throttle pegged the whole time to keep enough airspeed to stay aloft. I got it back in one piece, but from everything I have read, this setup should have plenty of power. I am positive that the battery was fully charged. The night before when I ran it up on the bench, it felt weak and the motor didn't seem to wind up as much as I thought it would, but I decided to see if that's just the way it was. So my question is this: Has anyone on this post had any problems with power using either an eflite spd control or kokam packs?
I did swap out the spd control with another (castle creations 25A) that I had laying around and it did exactly the same thing, so I would imagine it is not the spd control. Also the motor seems to be in good shape and spins freely without rubbing or binding without power (except for the minor clocking from the magnets). I am left with the 2~3 year old kokams...does anyone think these could be a problem? It sounds like thunder power is the way to go and I don't have any of those packs yet. Should I try that?
Any help would be greatly appreciated! Sorry for the long post.
Rich
#274
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RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
914,
What ever it is it's got to be battery related. My CC Phoenix 35 was cutting out in knife-edge I had to program the auto voltage detect out because of that. No cutting out now the voltage cut off is manually set at 8.4 VDC.
Also what ever it is unless you previously crashed the motor, it cannot be the 480. My set up pulls over 280 watts @ 29 AMPS, take off at full throttle is like 15 feet may 16. Climbs straight up from dead stop to where you have to stop it because you cannot see it.
Most of my flying is at 1/2 throttle and that’s with a little 5-7 mph head wind. My Dualsky's work great battery temp when done with a 6.4 min flight is like 99 degrees maybe 100.
I'd toss them old Kokams before ya smoke em !
JSD
What ever it is it's got to be battery related. My CC Phoenix 35 was cutting out in knife-edge I had to program the auto voltage detect out because of that. No cutting out now the voltage cut off is manually set at 8.4 VDC.
Also what ever it is unless you previously crashed the motor, it cannot be the 480. My set up pulls over 280 watts @ 29 AMPS, take off at full throttle is like 15 feet may 16. Climbs straight up from dead stop to where you have to stop it because you cannot see it.
Most of my flying is at 1/2 throttle and that’s with a little 5-7 mph head wind. My Dualsky's work great battery temp when done with a 6.4 min flight is like 99 degrees maybe 100.
I'd toss them old Kokams before ya smoke em !
JSD
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RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
Cap10,
Thanks for the info. Sounds like the motor is plenty strong enough! The one I have is straight out of the box, never flown except for the one lap that I did with the brio and a good bit of "pucker" going on. I have a couple of TP 2070's on the way with a 25C discharge rate they should be just the ticket to get this brio moving if it's the batteries. I will probably find out in a heartbeat when I hit the throttle.
Thanks again, I think I will be scrapping those Kokams like you said.
And if I do get a chance to get the brio airborne again I will write back in and let you know how it did.
Rich
Thanks for the info. Sounds like the motor is plenty strong enough! The one I have is straight out of the box, never flown except for the one lap that I did with the brio and a good bit of "pucker" going on. I have a couple of TP 2070's on the way with a 25C discharge rate they should be just the ticket to get this brio moving if it's the batteries. I will probably find out in a heartbeat when I hit the throttle.
Thanks again, I think I will be scrapping those Kokams like you said.
And if I do get a chance to get the brio airborne again I will write back in and let you know how it did.
Rich