Tommy,

Thanks for the feedback and input. We sound like they are real close to being the same. I did not change any hardware, only added the hatch latch and BEC. The BEC should cancel out your switch/regulator as it is in about the same location. My ESC is mounted on the same plywood provided space, same as yours. I used the factory supplied spinner and factory supplied tail wheels assy. Don't know, it's possible your spinner could be lighter than the one supplied. The supplied spinner has a pretty heavy backplate. You mentioned that yours balanced with the battery location that you specified. What was your actual CG, how far back from the leading edge? They gave 175mm to 185mm (approx 6 7/8 to 7 1/4") I am assuming that it was around 7" (middle to rear of the wing tube is just about right according to their instructions)

Good to hear that it is not sensitive to battery movement and not much elevator is required. I am close to being able to give it a test flight. Should have it mostly finished this evening. Looks like the weather might cooperate by the end of the week into the weekend, so hopefully I can get a few flights in. I've been waiting a long time, as I know that you too had to wait some 5 or 6 months to get your kit. I have already epoxied my landing gear fairings on. I have had no problems with them on the Miss Wind, but if I do, I will remember the "goop" idea. I never thought of using that but that is a great idea. Again, thanks for the input from everyone, hope to see you soon Tommy,

Larry..

Larry,

It's been awhile but if my memory serves me it's right at 7 in.
The Tru-Turn spinner is real light but the double jam nut is
fairly heavy so it's probably about the same as yours.
Let me know how you like it. Maybe we can get together after
the holidays and do some flying. I plan on taking some time off
work after the first...I'm getting too damn old for this working
all the time !!

tommy s

Tommy,

Hey, that would be great getting together after the holidays, I will be off work then too....lol.. That's sad, I know. But I am getting ready to start building another home and ours is up for sale now. Maybe we can get Buddy off dead center and meet us with his Wind too. If you are reading this Buddy, and I know you are, you officially now have a couple of weeks notice to get yours built..... Yep, 7 inches for the cg is what I am shooting for when I am totally done. Will let everyone know the results after some flights.

Larry...

Hey Guys

Looks like I will be waiting a while for my Wind S110. I tried to buy it last night and found out shipping costs were going to be $220.00 and change. It costs about $170.00 for it to just cross the border. I occasionally do take a trip south and I guess I'll have to have it sent to a friend's son's place in Bellingham. Probably won't happen until March or April. Oh well, there's 6 in of snow on the ground right now and more coming. Timing for March or April should be about right as long as Esprit has them in stock. I'll buy all the bits and pieces in the meantime. You guys might have to put up with 3 months of silly questions on this machine.

Cheers

MJ

They've already been putting up with 6mos of silly questions from this kat - shouldn't be much of a problem, they're good at it

Larry & Tommy
Hopefully I will have my Wind 110 finished when you guy's take your vacation but if not I have my Helios 90 to fly.
I am still trying to decide weather to wait for the Scorpion 4035-250 or try the 4025-16 that I have in the Helios 90
I was thinking of trying that setup before I order the larger Scorpion. The Helios has plenty of power and the two airplanes
are near the same size and weight.
Buddy

ga
Thats alright in a few more weeks they will all have an item and page index to reference us to.
Buddy

Buddy,

You should try the 4025-16....if it needs the bigger motor it's an easy swap,
just a few screws.

tommy s

Okay folks, the final numbers are in. I just finished the Wind build and did a final RTF weight. As a reminder, here is the equipment I have installed and mods. I used all factory hardware. Only additions were a hatch latch and a fuse mounted Anderson power pole arming jack & plug. I also added epoxy to the landing gear block and associated formers to hopefully stop the problem that Tommy had with his. I used JR DS821 digital servos for the elevator halves mounted in the fuse instead of the smaller and lighter ones mounted in the stab halves. I also elected to use a CC BEC instead of the rcvr battery, switch, and regulator. Other than that it is totally stock....lol

Hacker A50-16L
APC 18x10 Prop (Thanks for the heads up Buddy..)
CC HV-85 ESC
CC 10amp BEC
JR DS821 Digitals for Ailerons and Elevator halves (wt 1.5 oz each)
Futaba S9151 Digital for rudder
Futaba R608FS Receiver
Rhino 4S 4900 25C x 2 Batteries


Total RTF weight was 4196 grams (9# 4oz).

I did measure my battery packs and they weigh 1005 grams (2# 3.45 oz) RTF with wiring and Deans plugs.

So that is a 7# airplane RTF with the batteries of your choice.

These weights do not include any decals, not sure if I will use them or not.

All I lack now is to make final adjustments to the control surfaces and the weather to cooperate so I can get a few flights on it. Will follow up when I am able to do that.

Larry....

Buddy, definitely keep us updated on what you do with the Scorpions. I've started pondering the 4025 myself, but I'm really curious as to how much better the plane tracks and how less it is influenced by wind with the extra weight.

Larry
Are tou useing a 16x10 prop I thought everyone was useing an 18x10 or 18x12 on this setup?
Buddy

Buddy,

You are right, typo on my part. I am starting out with a 18x10 APC. Thanks for the heads up..

Larry...

When I look at the 2 color variants offered for Wind 110, in fact I would like to have a mix of the 2; I would prefer to have the red version with the wing bottom from the blue version, which actually is red , and this exact scheme is now offered on the Wind S Pro.</p>

I am (still) flying (too) many different planes and have noticed that when changing from a model to a model the eye takes its time to adapt to a new color scheme. So in my ideal world the practice plane (Wind 110) should have the same color scheme as the plane being used for competitions (Wind S Pro).</p>

Are there any problems with the visibility of the blue on the bottom? Has anyone considered recovering it in red?</p>

I really like having a different color on the bottom of the wings. The contrast really helps to see wings level, and helps if you do get disoriented. Interesting though, I see your point in having similar trim schemes.

I have actually considered adding a dark navy blue stripe along the bottom trailing edge
spanwise on the wing to help visibility. The light blue bottom will disappear on a bright
sunny sky sometimes. I think it's the contrast more than the color that determines how
well it can be seen.

tommy s

My thoughts exactly, and Sebastiano also came to this conclusion himself, since the 2m WindS pro has this scheme (red topside, red bottomside).

Adding darblue will accomplish nothing.

The secret to visibility is not in the color, but in the contrast of them. The human eye cannot see colors very good over large distances in the sky. Every color will fade to a light gray or dark gray.

Any kind of blue you'll take, will fade to dark gray. So if you want to add more contrast, you might want to add a WHITE striping.

tIANci (and anyone else running 10S):
Are you also using ~2500mah for a flight?

If this is the case, 4000mah 10S Zippy will be ideal - same weight as 4900 8S Rhino and motor still 2oz lighter than Hacker

Think I made my final decision

Something just came to my mind!</p>

Who says it has to be 8S or 10S? Why not 9S? Get 2 packs of 4S, 2 identical packs of 5S and you can start combining 8S, 9S or 10S depending on the weather conditions. Luckily we need more power and weight when it gets more windy.</p>

Just by changing a prop we can always have all the necessary power.</p>

I really love this about electro, so much freedom to choose, YES!</p>


</p>


</p>

My friend started with 8S . . then went to 9S . . and now ONLY flies 10S. He actually tried 12S and loved it, BUT it is illegal in competition. He has used Rhino 3700mAh packs, but uses Rhino 4900mAh packs in competition . . as I mentioned before, he prefers the extra weight. Joe I think you are getting a little too worried about the weight . . a couple of hundred grams makes no difference to the way this plane flies . . except I think it flies BETTER. You will see when you fly it. Personally, I would go for bigger packs as it gives you more "head room"

Cheers, JB

gaRCfield , you won't be regrat if you go 10s i tell you .... you will need all the power to fly p schedue . Recently juist came back from
Thai ""KING-CUP" , they are using all full 2m pattern plane .... i am flying the 110size as you can see the 2m flying box is large ,
when the wind pick up .. . .that is the time you need the extra power at the top menuever ()and with the extra weight you carry , the plane is stable and track well !
track well too ,,, but you need a break setting to slow down the down line abit .

I definitely want the power of 10S, but all this talk about down line braking is making me think too much. The decision for me now is 4000mah or 5000mah.

Most of the time i fly p09 for about 7min , used only 2300mah +- ..... in strong wind i used no mere than 2800mah . .

Well, I tried to maiden the Wind today. Got to the field, ranged checked the plane, then was in the process of running it up to check rpm's and amp draw. When I got to about 3/4 throttle and 25 amps, The Hacker squealed and then slowed down. I immediately shut everything down and there was smoke coming from the BEC. Luckily I had the canopy off and could see it as soon as the prop stopped moving air. I disarmed everything and the smoke quit. I could tell that the BEC had fried but caused no damage to the fuse other than a little black mark on the side where it was mounted. Packed it up thinking I will just go home and take the BEC out and put in a rcvr battery and switch, which would help to give me some room for CG adjustment (see prior post about CG). Well, I was astonished by what I found when I got home and started working on it. All 5 servos were fried. No movement what so ever except for the rudder servo, which was quivering a little, but would move. Apparently when the BEC fried it allowed high voltage to hit the receiver and servos. Here is the amazing thing, the receiver appears to be fine. I replaced it with a new one just for insurance sake and I am going to send it to Futaba for a checkout anyway, but I couldn't believe that it allowed enough current to pass through and fry the servos but didn't get damaged, or at least it does not appear to be damaged.

Anyway, I spent the last 5 hours replacing all of the servos, setting all the throws again, and mounting a rcvr battery and switch. Glad I did as now at 180mm CG the battery pack is about 1 1/2" in front of the wing tube. Now I have a little room to move the CG backwards if I need too. Lesson learned... I am fairly new to electric power and believe me, I will never use another seperate BEC in any plane other than the built in BEC on my foamys. I have one in my Miss Wind now, and I am going to replace it before I fly it again. Scary thought of what would have happened if the BEC had failed in flight...... I realize that with a seperate rcvr battery and switch there is a possibility of failure there also, but luckily I have never had one fail yet. I knew better but after being out of the hobby for 5 years I guess I had a brain fart.......

I will be going out again tomorrow morning and hopefully will get a few flights as the weather has been cooperating the last two days. I will give a report when I get back.....

Larry....

Larry, forgive me but in your posts you do not list what battery you were using to power the CC 10amp BEC. If it was 8s then that would explain why it fried as that BEC is only rated for 6s max. In your last post it sounded like you were unsure of the reason it fried, could this be it? Thankfully it happened on the ground!

Dave.

Dave,

Wow, do I feel stupid..... You are 100% correct. It never even crossed my mind that the CC 10 amp BEC was only rated for 6S input. I am running 8S so that explains what happened. Costly mistake on my part, several hundred dollars later I have learned not to take the electrical stuff for granted. Too many years running YS I guess. At least now I have a reason it fried, instead of always wondering what caused it. That does make me feel a lot better, if that makes any sense.... Thanks for your help as I really appreciate it. Amazing what another pair of eyes, ears, or even more important, experience can do to help resolve a problem. Thanks again,

Larry....