tIANci

Hey Joe ... some pics would be nice!

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Unfortunately my camera stinks, so only two pics worthy of posting. One that didn't make it was just of the equipment I used - a rotary tool with a side cutting bit (like a drill bit) for heavy removal, a grinding stone for lighter removal, and a sanding drum for finishing.

Right now I have the countersink screws in there, they are lighter and give more clearance for the prop adapter, I'm just not crazy about countersunk screws against the non-countersunk silicon board; not sure what will end up there.

tommy s

My Feedback: (55)

My Hacker motor is mounted the exact same way with the same type screws....been
in there for better part of a year with no problems.

tommy s

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Thanks Tommy.

huison2005

I just recieved my CC USB cable n CC85Hv ..... i am new to this , so can any of you tell me how to program and it works ..?? and i been told that the newer version of the software would not work ??!!

only the old 1.56version works well .... how am i going to get it to download this 1.56v ??? ....................

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

I think they are up to [link=http://www.castlecreations.com/downloads.html]version 3.24[/link]; it doesn't make sense that only 1.56 will work properly. They have instructions, downloads, and FAQ on their website. I sent a PM too.

rprice19

The current version of Castle Link software is 3.241 and the current firmware for your CC85HV is 3.20.
I just downloaded it last night and updated my ICE100 firmware to 3.21 (only for ICE100 ESC) to fix the data logging download bug.

huison2005

Thanks gaRCfield .... for the info , i just get in the programing mode .... and yes you can down load the version u want and there is 1.55 v . anyway will try and see tomorrow morninig to test it out . . . . will give report ... Thanks for the help !!

hotrod34a

My Feedback: (36)

Huison,

Not sure why you are wanting to use the 1.56 version on your ESC. One thing that I have read somewhere is that once you load the newer versions that you cannot go back and load the older versions like you want. Which version did yours come with? If you just recently bought it, it should have a fairly new version installed already. Also, with the newer versions you have a lot more features that you can program, including percentage braking, more options for outrunners, etc. If you have the right controller that is. Just an FYI...


Larry...

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Sounds like there's a little confusion between the computer software version and the firmware version on his controller.

Chris Moon

My Feedback: (8)

The 1.55 and 1.56 firmware versions were essentially bulletproof to run large outrunners (2500 -3000+ watts) and not have any motor/controller sync (timing issues) a.k.a. screeching. The downside is that you lose some features that the later firmware version have. Not all set ups need to fall back to the 1.55 or 1.56 but some just wont work right with the later firmware. Some do, some don't. Even with the same make and model of motors.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

For anyone interested, the Airtronics 94761 mini servos don't work so well in the tail of this plane - too small. If I didn't already clip the second set of 'ears' off one of these servos I'd probably return them. Overall length of the servo is 1 1/16", and the cutout inside the stab is over 1 3/8". There is not a lot of room to work, and there is not much material to glue a servo tray to.

I think it's safe to say I'm a little over my head with this project. Luckily I won a little fun-fly plane that I converted to electric for setup practice, as this is my first e-experience.

rprice19

Version 3.20 firmware released 1/05/2010 is stated to correct the timing issues with screeching shounds.
This is the exact message for Version3.20 firmware update:

Bug fix: Timing would become overly advanced at certain RPM ranges. This was often reported as a noise somewhere in the throttle range. It also resulted in excessive heat when running in those RPM ranges.

hotrod34a

My Feedback: (36)

Joe,

You might still want to consider mounting full size servos in the rear as you could run into a CG issue since you are going for the larger motor and batteries. You might want to read my earlier post as to what I found out when building mine about this issue. Unless you are planning on removing your stabs.... Just a thought.....

Larry....

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

That will be plan B. It took a while but I got one of the Atx mini's mounted in the stab, and hopefully with the lighter motor, lighter gear, and everything shoved as far back as possible the balance will work out. I'll try a heavier (more capacity) set of Rx batteries before I go with the heavier servos.

huison2005

gaRCfield , my WinndS with 2 xhitec 5985 metal gear(Elevator) at the back..... still i need 15g of lead at the back to balance it !!

And my heavy 10s Rhino push all the way back to get the cg right .... hemmm ,if you put 2 mini servo . . . would not achiven the right cg ..... !

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

this is good to know. i thought you guys were balancing ok w/o lead.

huison2005

Well ,let me try the 1.55v first .... see how she does .!! i have talk over ths with a senior pattern flyer as he used the version with his Integral & Altair with no probleum ....
so just give it a try , if not ... just change to the latest one will do ....

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

I had a tough time with the CA hinges apparently - I breathed on the rudder before even hooking up the servo and broke one. I wasn't really happy with the way they came out in the first place and this is a good excuse to cut them all and replace with the 1/8" Robart hinges.

Replaced the tail wheel with a Sullivan one too; the rudder leading edge was not tapered to the center of the rudder and thus caused a misalignment. The Sullivan wheels use a spring to compensate for stuff like this, however with the Robart stuff centered on the rudder and not the leading edge should fix the issue.

Got the Airtronics servos mounted in the tail with a little effort, time, and patience. Hopefully the heavier hinges and tail wheel combined with the lighter gear and Rx batteries will help with balancing.

Lipos are on their way, as is the ESC from Tower so should have it hinged and balanced within a week. I figure I have a few options:

-mounting the rudder servo in the tail if it's really far out of balance
-4000mah batteries if it's a bit out of balance
-few grams of lead if it's close
-playing with wheel pants (eliminating?) and wheel sizes
-bigger elevator servos is another idea, doesn't make much sense but it is an option

hezik

Robart hinges are offcourse fine too, but there's really nothing wrong with CA hinges. If you break them, you're probably doing something wrong mounting them.

The trick to CA hinges is that you HAVE to use THIN CA and you HAVE to glue them in at once. Don't do one side first and then the other.

Easiest way to place them correctly is to put a pin through them in the middle and then insert them into one half. After having inserted them all, put on the second half. The pins are there to keep them in the middle. Remove the pins and put a drop or 2 of thin CA on both sides, and you're done.

DaveL322

Regarding the CC85HV and software versions.

As has been noted in this thread, there is a software version for the Castle Link (the PC interface device) and while it can be the same as the firmware that is loaded into an ESC, this is usually not the case. The Castle Link software will have different versions of firmware for various ESCs, BECs, etc that are supported by Castle Link. The latest Castle Link firmware is 3.241, and the latest firmware for the 85HV is 3.2. As firmware is updated for a specific ESC, older versions of firmware may be dropped. If you look at the history of the Phoenix firmware (on the Castle website under downloads), you can see multiple versions have improvements for running high power outrunners (aka, stuff used in pattern).

I have tested many versions of firmware on the HV85 (outrunners and inrunners). Inrunners run well on pretty much all versions, so run the latest 3.2 firmware (my recommendation). Some combinations of firmware/outrunners really don't work that well (and this is not unique to Castle). At any reasonable power level, the 1.55 and 1.56 were absolutely bulletproof (no screech, maintaining timing at high power). The only firmware I would upgrade to (for outrunners) is the 3.2, which statically achieves the same prop RPM at fewer amps (than the 1.56). With the crappy winter weather in the northeast, I've not been able to fly the 3.2 on pattern outrunners, but it is working well on smaller motors (statically, and flying).

Regards,

Dave Lockhart
Team Castle Creations

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Got a set of batteries today:

Zippy Flightmax 5000mah 30C....663grams!! That's 100 grams less than advertised, per piece!!

J Lachowski

My Feedback: (46)

You should have gotten the 20C packs. They are even lighter and will do the job.

hezik

I have both and the 30C perform slightly better. They keep a higher nominal voltage. Also they will last longer because they have to work less hard, relatively.

Zippies are good packs. My oldest pack is now coming up on 200 flights, and though it doesn't perform the way it did when it was new, it's still very usable. I suspect I'll get around 250 (total, so about 50 cycles more) cycles out it before I decide to retire it.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Well I just ordered one set to start. I want to fly a few flights and see what I think. If I need to shave some weight I'll go with lighter batteries, but I was thinking I would get a little more longevity and power out of the 30C - at least this is what was suggested by the local guys here.

I just put the plane up for a preliminary balance. It still needs the ESC and the Robart Hinges on the tail, and a little more hardware on the stab, but balance was right near the 185mm point!