patternflyer1

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Pull pull is next. So I use wire called Sevenstrand. Very strong, and heavy duty. This is all I had at home or I would have used a little lighter wire. In the pic it show's the connectors to be A2's, but I actually use A3's with this wire.
So how to do it?
Well, I first start with opening the hole up from the existing cut out. I like to take a small round file and elongate the hole until the file will actually be straight from the servo arm, to the control horn. This way there is no binding.
Then I took a piece of carbon rod (from a deps that I had sitting here) and attached one end of the wire to it with tape. Starting at the tail of the fuse, push it through the hole and work it towards the servo. Fairly easy. Then I tape one end to the servo tray with plenty of length left.
Next I hook up the rudder side of the pull pull. The Sevenstrand is a coated wire, so I take a lighter, or a plumbers torch and lightly melt the wire off. (It will catch on fire like a marshmallow, so be careful what's underneath it as it will drip little balls of fire downwards.) I melt off about 4 inches of the plastic.
Then I put two of the A3 connectors on, and put a bend in the wire about 2 inches or so from the end. Then I push the wire through the plastic horn end that I pre installed. Pushing the wire through the ends of the A3 connectors again. Then I use the A3 crimper (Yes they have their own crimper) and crimp both connectors as you'll see in the final pic. Some people like to do a loop at the end and go through the hole again. I've found I don't need to with this wire and connector system.

patternflyer1

My Feedback: (11)

The Hacker mount does look heavy Don, I agree. I have the c50 mount in my Yak, it's not too bad really, pretty light, but it doesn't have the rear mount. Maybe I'll pull it out and check it for fun... Yeah, cuz that'll be fun.. haha
Let's face it, not many of us actually get weighed anyway (Unless heading to the nats) so this shouldn't cause a problem for most.


Chris

DaveL322

The mount is quite heavy - about 7 oz to recall, but it is very sturdy and very adjustable. The rear bearing support uses a small flange bearing. On my planes, I've been mounting the A60 directly to the nosering after beefing up the backside of the nosering with spacers made of 1/8" 5 ply birch or 1/8" FG circuit board material (1 or 2 layers to get the thrustwasher at the correct distance). And I run small screws through the "stack" of the nosering and spacers for better resistance to torque loads. The aft mounting brace is very similar to a C50 brace. Total weight of parts for mounting the outrunner is < 2 oz.

Regards,

Dave Lockhart


[/quote]

Wonder what the weight is on that mount...... must be pretty substantial.

Chris, have you measured the inside clearance for batteries yet? I assume you have and your FPs will fit ok?

Woodie
Team Placerville
[/quote]

Derek.Koopowitz

Now... now... you all know that Tinky is already taken with the two of you. I was left out of the mix and found my own "Tinky" - Jill.

patternflyer1

My Feedback: (11)

Jill is much more attractive than Tinky. Can't blame you there.



Just ran down to Airborne Models to check out their gear per Don's advice. Little heavy and not quite as tall as I would like. So I passed. Guess I'll order some Bolly's.

C

elan120

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Chris,

When you find a source that has Bolly long in stock, don't forget to let me know, since I need one also.

TIA,
Kevin

JAS

My Feedback: (2)

You can try Desert Aircraft. They usually have some Bolly gear that no one know's about.

elan120

My Feedback: (1)

Great!!! Will call them first thing Monday.

Thank you Jason!!

Kevin

tIANci

Thanks for the tips ... I am dying to get my hands on my Element now. Am so so torn between EP and GP ... I have a YS160 NIB that I feel will give me more stick time but EP is so clean and fun to have.

patternflyer1

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No luck Jason, but thanks.

Chris

patternflyer1

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Still waiting on gear. I ended up going with the Bolly electrics seeing as the long's are still 2-3 weeks out.. I will get them when they come in if I need them.
So, onto the build. I mounted the esc. Fairly easy, I wanted to keep the weight forward as much as possible and keep the wires short. I use a shorting plug to keep the power disconnected from the batteries to the motor until I plug it in on the outside. See the pic of it roughed in before I glued it.

I mounted the Esc to a carbon rod on the front so that the carbon rod can slide out of the plywood mounts easily. Therefore making it so it isn't in the way when I need to pull the motor. I did make the final resting spot of the carbon rod the exact size in the plywood plate, and made it so that it has to click in. The back of the esc I mounted to some servo mounts that I had laying around.

The wires to the batteries I kept very short. Keeping the weight down as much as possible. Not that I'm really worried about it.



More later, my Central and Aero Products orders just arrived. Now if Airtronics had any 94761 servo's in stock. I could finish. Looks like a few weeks on those. I may mount some standard digitals on Ailerons until I get the 761's so that I can fly it. Or pull em outta the Abbra..

patternflyer1

My Feedback: (11)

Got the gear, so seeing as the inside is mostly wrapped up, they had to go on. Needed to see what clearance I had for a prop. Looks like a 20.5x14 will fit with no worries. 22x12 will, but you will have to grease em in on landing. With the long Bolly's, it wouldn't be an issue.

So, here's some pics of how I did it. I obviously cut the gear in half, and shaped them. (Saved 5 grams)
I used the Nmp aluminum axles from Central. (Saved some there also)
I used the stock wheels, and pants.

I use the level on the deck to see if the plane is level, then I put a level on the gear, not to see if it's level, but I measure down from a "level" level, and mark the holes for the Nmp axles. Therefore assuring my plane sits level.

patternflyer1

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More pics of the gear mounting

patternflyer1

My Feedback: (11)

Wheel pant and tire mounting.

I obviously took the four pieces of plywood you saw 2 posts ago and epoxied those into (wiping away all excess epoxy) the wheel pant at the appropriate place. Then I marked the gear 1/4" down from the level you saw in a earlier pic, and started drilling. I drilled holes at this point only for the axles in the gear and (after the glue dried) the pant. Then I mount the pant with the axle. The NMP's make this really easy. After assuring they are in the level spot where I want them (and eyeballing them against each other 25 times) I drill the hole for the extra screw that holds the pant in place. Don't just think the axle will hold it. You will be unhappy at the field if you do. Then I mount a t nut on the inside of the pant for this screw. Then I mount everything up.

patternflyer1

My Feedback: (11)

After the gear was mounted, I decided to cut some cooling holes up front.
The way I do this, is I take some red striping tape (I think it's great planes,(they sell it at the hobby store) and tape off some designs. I'll add a pic of when I first started. You have to work with it several times until you find a design that you like. I may have went overboard a little. But it was fun.. I may do a few more on the front at the bottom, not sure yet. Gotta see if everything cools ok.

patternflyer1

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More cooling hole pics.

patternflyer1

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Tail wheel mounting is straight forward. You take the pieces from the bag, and install them where you feel they need to go. I measured it when I did it, but I forget the measurement. I will try to remember to update with a dimension to drill the hole. For the rod mount on the rudder, I used a piece of plastic hinge that I cut off of one I had laying around.

patternflyer1

My Feedback: (11)

BTW, if you haven't notice, my camera is a piece of junk for closeups. I smashed it in the seat somehow when sliding it at the nats. Hasn't been the same since.

Sorry for the blurry pics.

C

patternflyer1

My Feedback: (11)

Derek,

Back to the earlier question of removing the beam plywood. I think I will leave it there for strength at this point. The fiberglass up front is thin (which is good) so the beams are what gives me the strength IMO, to mount the motor to the nose. I noticed the fiberglass is very flexible after cutting the cooling holes.
Could I cut some of the beams out? I'm sure I could. But I will do that later if I need to save weight. If I can make weight with it there, I will just leave it.

Chris

tuan lam

My Feedback: (1)

where is the out take air go ??make sure you have biger out take air 4 x more then the in take air, if not!! look like you have an oven for your batteries and the motor trust me been there done that. good luck

patternflyer1

My Feedback: (11)

No worries. My plan is to do it once the batteries are mounted. Just waiting on a few parts from Central that I forgot.

Thanks,

Chris

tIANci

Pattern ... I think I am most tempted to go with EP now, just got my bill of landing today and the shipment of Flitons I ordered are at the port! Can't wait to get my hands on the Element, should be out by next week as Wed/Thu will be a public holiday here. Any pics of your battery mount? I am keen to see how you are doing it.

patternflyer1

My Feedback: (11)

Haven't mounted the battery, but I figure they will go in front of the landing gear, on velcro, with velcro straps.
They will be the last thing I do as I will adjust the cg with them.

Chris

tIANci

Chris ... will access to that area be easy? What I mean is will it be easy to locate the batts in that area, will the space be tight etc?

patternflyer1

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Looks like there is plenty of room Tianci.

Chris