Sebart Wind S Pro
10-20-2011 | 11:59 AM
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From: petch tekva, ISRAEL
RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
10-21-2011 | 01:43 AM
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From: EmpangeniNatal, SOUTH AFRICA
RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
Thanks Chester I will look into those as well. Here is a thought, now that you have worked with those hinges, do you think if you shaped a 3mm steel rod as you have but instead of spinning it in a dremel rather heat until its very hot with a gas torch that it would work to melt the hinges out? Otherwise I will just do what you have done, I'm doing all the hinges so hope it goes well 
Just getting some ideas here [&:]
Just getting some ideas here [&:]
10-21-2011 | 04:09 AM
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From: petch tekva, ISRAEL
RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
In this method, a gas torch, I'm afraid that maybe the heat will burn the glue & balsa area of hinges to .
You have no control over the temperature
But with a Dremel you are in control of the level of friction by feeling
Unless you have a Super Dremel...
chester
You have no control over the temperature
But with a Dremel you are in control of the level of friction by feeling
Unless you have a Super Dremel...
chester
10-21-2011 | 10:19 AM
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From: VleutenUtrecht, NETHERLANDS
RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
First thing to say is:
do NOT use the supllied hinges!
They are crap, yes they are, all of them. If you have 20 of them, 15 will come with backlash right out of the box, the other 5 will develop this in the first few flights.
In the beginning of this thread, there are several people telling how they used those hinges without issues, don't believe them, this isn't true. If you want to fly masters, you will notice sloppyness on those hinges.
I did install the original hinges and had to replace all of them. I did this by simply drilling them out using a dremel and a 2.5mm drill.
Only problem I encountered; in the ailerons; once you drill the original hinge stub out of the aileron, the last piece of it, which sticks through the wood and therefor is nog fixed to anything, will fall into the aileron, without any way to get it out. The solition to this is to wiggle your aileron so that this loose piece is close to the hole you drilled, and then drop a few drops of thin CA in the hole, glueing this loose piece to the aileron on the inside.
It's either that, or cut open the aileron on several places to remove them.
When mounting different hinges, ie the robart hinges, make sure that they are supported all the way up to the actual hinge-point, or you'll still end up with some backlash.
do NOT use the supllied hinges!
They are crap, yes they are, all of them. If you have 20 of them, 15 will come with backlash right out of the box, the other 5 will develop this in the first few flights.
In the beginning of this thread, there are several people telling how they used those hinges without issues, don't believe them, this isn't true. If you want to fly masters, you will notice sloppyness on those hinges.
I did install the original hinges and had to replace all of them. I did this by simply drilling them out using a dremel and a 2.5mm drill.
Only problem I encountered; in the ailerons; once you drill the original hinge stub out of the aileron, the last piece of it, which sticks through the wood and therefor is nog fixed to anything, will fall into the aileron, without any way to get it out. The solition to this is to wiggle your aileron so that this loose piece is close to the hole you drilled, and then drop a few drops of thin CA in the hole, glueing this loose piece to the aileron on the inside.
It's either that, or cut open the aileron on several places to remove them.
When mounting different hinges, ie the robart hinges, make sure that they are supported all the way up to the actual hinge-point, or you'll still end up with some backlash.
10-22-2011 | 09:02 AM
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From: Urbana, IL
RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
<div class="yiv29016662MsoNormal">Hezik,</div><div class="yiv29016662MsoNormal"> </div> <div id="yui_3_2_0_1_1319226559406270" class="yiv29016662MsoNormal">What hinge type and size did you use as a replacement?</div><div class="yiv29016662MsoNormal"> </div> <div class="yiv29016662MsoNormal">
<br type="_moz"/></div> <div id="yui_3_2_0_1_1319226559406277" class="yiv29016662MsoNormal">Has anyone used Robart Hinge Point Pockets instead of SteelPin Hinge Points, and if so what size?</div>
<br type="_moz"/></div> <div id="yui_3_2_0_1_1319226559406277" class="yiv29016662MsoNormal">Has anyone used Robart Hinge Point Pockets instead of SteelPin Hinge Points, and if so what size?</div>
10-29-2011 | 07:30 AM
#435
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RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
Well this is my Wind S Pro finish it came in 10:10 install Dualsky 6355 with a PT 20-13 world model spinner carbon Castlle 85 controller futaba 9650 on tail 9252 on wings for now planing to change to JR 9411 and 8411 for rudder. Futaba 12FG
10-29-2011 | 11:14 AM
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From: VleutenUtrecht, NETHERLANDS
RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
ORIGINAL: ODD
<div class=''yiv29016662MsoNormal''>Hezik,</div><div class=''yiv29016662MsoNormal''> </div> <div id=''yui_3_2_0_1_1319226559406270'' class=''yiv29016662MsoNormal''>What hinge type and size did you use as a replacement?</div><div class=''yiv29016662MsoNormal''> </div> <div class=''yiv29016662MsoNormal''>
<br type=''_moz''/></div> <div id=''yui_3_2_0_1_1319226559406277'' class=''yiv29016662MsoNormal''>Has anyone used Robart Hinge Point Pockets instead of SteelPin Hinge Points, and if so what size?</div>
<div class=''yiv29016662MsoNormal''>Hezik,</div><div class=''yiv29016662MsoNormal''> </div> <div id=''yui_3_2_0_1_1319226559406270'' class=''yiv29016662MsoNormal''>What hinge type and size did you use as a replacement?</div><div class=''yiv29016662MsoNormal''> </div> <div class=''yiv29016662MsoNormal''>
<br type=''_moz''/></div> <div id=''yui_3_2_0_1_1319226559406277'' class=''yiv29016662MsoNormal''>Has anyone used Robart Hinge Point Pockets instead of SteelPin Hinge Points, and if so what size?</div>
Downside to that is that they are marginally bigger than the original hinges, so you have to widen the slots in the surfaces somewhat, and have to do some work in supporting them all up to the hingepoint.
I have pondered using something similar to the hinge point pockets you mention, I have considered removing the steel pin from the hinges and replacing them with one long steel pin over the entire surface. It appears the holes to do this are already there.
In the end I just wanted to fly, and have never seen any reason to remove any surface, so just mounted the steel pin hinges.
10-29-2011 | 03:01 PM
#437
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From: Urbana, IL
RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">Hezik,</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">Thanks for the explanation.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">When you said small size – do you mean 3/32” = 2.38mm or 1/8” = 3.18mm?</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">Thanks,</div>
10-31-2011 | 12:28 PM
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From: EmpangeniNatal, SOUTH AFRICA
RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
ORIGINAL: hezik
First thing to say is:
do NOT use the supllied hinges!
They are crap, yes they are, all of them. If you have 20 of them, 15 will come with backlash right out of the box, the other 5 will develop this in the first few flights.
In the beginning of this thread, there are several people telling how they used those hinges without issues, don't believe them, this isn't true. If you want to fly masters, you will notice sloppyness on those hinges.
I did install the original hinges and had to replace all of them. I did this by simply drilling them out using a dremel and a 2.5mm drill.
Only problem I encountered; in the ailerons; once you drill the original hinge stub out of the aileron, the last piece of it, which sticks through the wood and therefor is nog fixed to anything, will fall into the aileron, without any way to get it out. The solition to this is to wiggle your aileron so that this loose piece is close to the hole you drilled, and then drop a few drops of thin CA in the hole, glueing this loose piece to the aileron on the inside.
It's either that, or cut open the aileron on several places to remove them.
When mounting different hinges, ie the robart hinges, make sure that they are supported all the way up to the actual hinge-point, or you'll still end up with some backlash.
First thing to say is:
do NOT use the supllied hinges!
They are crap, yes they are, all of them. If you have 20 of them, 15 will come with backlash right out of the box, the other 5 will develop this in the first few flights.
In the beginning of this thread, there are several people telling how they used those hinges without issues, don't believe them, this isn't true. If you want to fly masters, you will notice sloppyness on those hinges.
I did install the original hinges and had to replace all of them. I did this by simply drilling them out using a dremel and a 2.5mm drill.
Only problem I encountered; in the ailerons; once you drill the original hinge stub out of the aileron, the last piece of it, which sticks through the wood and therefor is nog fixed to anything, will fall into the aileron, without any way to get it out. The solition to this is to wiggle your aileron so that this loose piece is close to the hole you drilled, and then drop a few drops of thin CA in the hole, glueing this loose piece to the aileron on the inside.
It's either that, or cut open the aileron on several places to remove them.
When mounting different hinges, ie the robart hinges, make sure that they are supported all the way up to the actual hinge-point, or you'll still end up with some backlash.
Can you give some more info on the gluing the bits of the old hinges. Both my ailerons, both elevators and the rudder now sound like a rattle. Its going to drive me mad everytime I carry or turn my plane over [sm=confused.gif]
I cant get the hinge bits close to the hole as I cant even see them even when I shine a torch down the hole. I have used cyno with a long spout and basically squirted a bit into the hole holding the surface vertically so that the hinge bit comes against one of the inner ribs and the cyno would help it stick there. I got all the rattles out and was really chuffed until I started doing the rest of the hinging and as I'm working with the surfaces the bits are coming loose again [sm=angry_smile.gif] I dont want to keep pouring cyno down the holes... help [sm=drowning.gif]
11-01-2011 | 05:27 AM
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From: VleutenUtrecht, NETHERLANDS
RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
I did it on one aileron only, and for me, the same method you used, worked. If they were glued at some point in time, you might try squirting some accelerator into the hole, maybe that'll fix it?
Otherwise than that, I have no meaningfull tips on this subject.. it's a bit trial and error. I guess I was lucky the parts stuck?
Otherwise than that, I have no meaningfull tips on this subject.. it's a bit trial and error. I guess I was lucky the parts stuck?
11-07-2011 | 02:36 AM
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From: Elkhart, IN
RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
Arch, I agree. The luxury covers are nice.
Question, where do you put your wing tube? I was surprised that they did not sew a pocket in one of the wing bags for it. All my Radio Glove covers had a tube pocket....
Marty
Question, where do you put your wing tube? I was surprised that they did not sew a pocket in one of the wing bags for it. All my Radio Glove covers had a tube pocket....
Marty
11-07-2011 | 05:32 PM
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From: Elkhart, IN
RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
Thanks Arch, the LX covers definately have enough room to do that.
I am still waiting on my ice80 to come from Andrew before I can fly mine. He received it back from Castle on October 18th. I may not beat the snow if he doesn't hurry up! I would hate to have to wait until April......
I did get all the strakes installed. I know you had flown yours with the tail strakes, have you installed and flown the wing strakes yet? If you have, any comments?
Marty
I am still waiting on my ice80 to come from Andrew before I can fly mine. He received it back from Castle on October 18th. I may not beat the snow if he doesn't hurry up! I would hate to have to wait until April......
I did get all the strakes installed. I know you had flown yours with the tail strakes, have you installed and flown the wing strakes yet? If you have, any comments?
Marty
11-09-2011 | 12:22 PM
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From: VleutenUtrecht, NETHERLANDS
RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
I wouldn't do that, as it's not the kind of material that really glues well with cyano. Also it's nice to have some time to position everything right, so I would use epoxy, at least the 30 minute kind.
Besides that, cyano is a bad filler, has no strength, parts have to touch. I wouldn't trust a robart hinge glued with Cyano.
Besides that, cyano is a bad filler, has no strength, parts have to touch. I wouldn't trust a robart hinge glued with Cyano.
11-17-2011 | 04:04 PM
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From: new jersey,
NJ
RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
I'm in the middle of opening my elevator servo slots where the arm passes through the bottom of the stab. What is the most amount of up elevator I'm going to need with this airplane? Right now I can get 18mm before the ball link hits. I can go more but how much?
