Changing from glow to electric (tips?)
05-06-2010 | 12:06 PM
#1
Changing from glow to electric (tips?)
Hey Guys,
Just had my first e powered flight yesterday with my Wind 110. Definitely a different world from glow, mostly because you can't hear the RPM of the engine. Also very different without a 2000 RPM idle.
It would be really helpful and cool if you could share some of your experience and techniques for adapting from glow to electric.
Thanks!
Just had my first e powered flight yesterday with my Wind 110. Definitely a different world from glow, mostly because you can't hear the RPM of the engine. Also very different without a 2000 RPM idle.
It would be really helpful and cool if you could share some of your experience and techniques for adapting from glow to electric.
Thanks!
05-06-2010 | 12:10 PM
#2
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From: Back home in,
OH
RE: Changing from glow to electric (tips?)
When I was getting ready to make the change about a year and a half ago I asked Chris Moon
what I should do. He said:
"Find someone that's been successful with it and do EXACTLY what they've done".
I copied Chris's setup at the time and it was literally plug and play.
I've had no issues what so ever.
I don't think I could have gotten any better advice.
JLK
what I should do. He said:
"Find someone that's been successful with it and do EXACTLY what they've done".
I copied Chris's setup at the time and it was literally plug and play.
I've had no issues what so ever.
I don't think I could have gotten any better advice.
JLK
05-06-2010 | 01:59 PM
#3
RE: Changing from glow to electric (tips?)
I have 3 position switch which controls a throttle to throttle mix with offset. The mix only affects the throttle below about 30%.
Lowest position is brake engaged.
Middle position is slowest possible idle.
Highest position is a "fast" idle...typically about 300-400 RPM above the lowest idle. On high idle, stall turns and spins are much easier, as the airflow over the tail is increased, keeping the tail from going dead. Of course you can also just learn to hold a little throttle in these maneuvers, but the switch works well for me (and could be incorporated with flight modes if they are used for stall turns and spins).
Regards,
Dave Lockhart
Team Horizon/JR/Spektrum/Thunder Power, Castle Creations, Tech Aero
Lowest position is brake engaged.
Middle position is slowest possible idle.
Highest position is a "fast" idle...typically about 300-400 RPM above the lowest idle. On high idle, stall turns and spins are much easier, as the airflow over the tail is increased, keeping the tail from going dead. Of course you can also just learn to hold a little throttle in these maneuvers, but the switch works well for me (and could be incorporated with flight modes if they are used for stall turns and spins).
Regards,
Dave Lockhart
Team Horizon/JR/Spektrum/Thunder Power, Castle Creations, Tech Aero
05-06-2010 | 06:00 PM
#4
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From: , DE
RE: Changing from glow to electric (tips?)
I just made the switch to e-power using the same setup you have. I bought 4 sets of batteries (10s) and a cellpro charger. Get a deep cycle marine battery and drag it to the field (unless your field has power).
Something I did not have to do with my Webra or OS was to perform a throttle calibration cycle at startup. My CC85HV is set to "auto calibrate" which requires going from idle to full power for 4 seconds at each startup.
Do 5 break-in cycles on each battery not exceeding 50% capacity and limited or no full throttle ops. Check the mah you put into the batteries each time (obey the clock). To monitor each flight I added an Eagletreesystems data logger.
Leave the Windex and paper towels at home.
Something I did not have to do with my Webra or OS was to perform a throttle calibration cycle at startup. My CC85HV is set to "auto calibrate" which requires going from idle to full power for 4 seconds at each startup.
Do 5 break-in cycles on each battery not exceeding 50% capacity and limited or no full throttle ops. Check the mah you put into the batteries each time (obey the clock). To monitor each flight I added an Eagletreesystems data logger.
Leave the Windex and paper towels at home.
05-06-2010 | 06:06 PM
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From: Fremont, CA
RE: Changing from glow to electric (tips?)
ORIGINAL: bedowinn
Something I did not have to do with my Webra or OS was to perform a throttle calibration cycle at startup. My CC85HV is set to ''auto calibrate'' which requires going from idle to full power for 4 seconds at each startup.
Something I did not have to do with my Webra or OS was to perform a throttle calibration cycle at startup. My CC85HV is set to ''auto calibrate'' which requires going from idle to full power for 4 seconds at each startup.
05-06-2010 | 06:11 PM
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From: , DE
RE: Changing from glow to electric (tips?)
ORIGINAL: elan120
Or switch to fixed endpoint setup to avoid the run-ups.
ORIGINAL: bedowinn
Something I did not have to do with my Webra or OS was to perform a throttle calibration cycle at startup. My CC85HV is set to ''auto calibrate'' which requires going from idle to full power for 4 seconds at each startup.
Something I did not have to do with my Webra or OS was to perform a throttle calibration cycle at startup. My CC85HV is set to ''auto calibrate'' which requires going from idle to full power for 4 seconds at each startup.
Is that thru the ATV function on the Tx, or the ESC settings (I have a castle link)??
05-06-2010 | 06:24 PM
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From: Fremont, CA
RE: Changing from glow to electric (tips?)
ORIGINAL: bedowinn
I'm listening.
Is that thru the ATV function on the Tx, or the ESC settings (I have a castle link)??
ORIGINAL: elan120
Or switch to fixed endpoint setup to avoid the run-ups.
ORIGINAL: bedowinn
Something I did not have to do with my Webra or OS was to perform a throttle calibration cycle at startup. My CC85HV is set to ''auto calibrate'' which requires going from idle to full power for 4 seconds at each startup.
Something I did not have to do with my Webra or OS was to perform a throttle calibration cycle at startup. My CC85HV is set to ''auto calibrate'' which requires going from idle to full power for 4 seconds at each startup.
Is that thru the ATV function on the Tx, or the ESC settings (I have a castle link)??
Use the castle link to change your ESC to fixed endpoint. Turn on the transmitter, and go to the endpoint (ATV) adjustment on the throttle channel. Bring both the high and low side endpoints down to 50% (25% if using Spektrum). Put your throttle stick in the mid throttle position. Plug in the battery pack (don't worry the motor won't start), move the throttle stick to full throttle position, and then slowly increase the high side endpoint up towards 100% until you hear a single tone. Bring the throttle stick to the bottom (idle) position and increase the endpoint until you hear the ESC arm. Unplug the battery and then plug back in to make sure everything is functioning properly. You should be good to go after that.
Kevin
05-06-2010 | 07:52 PM
#9
RE: Changing from glow to electric (tips?)
ORIGINAL: bedowinn
Do 5 break-in cycles on each battery not exceeding 50% capacity and limited or no full throttle ops. Check the mah you put into the batteries each time (obey the clock). To monitor each flight I added an Eagletreesystems data logger.
Do 5 break-in cycles on each battery not exceeding 50% capacity and limited or no full throttle ops. Check the mah you put into the batteries each time (obey the clock). To monitor each flight I added an Eagletreesystems data logger.
Regards,
Dave Lockhart
Team Horizon/JR/Spektrum/ThunderPower, Team Castle Creations, Tech Aero
05-06-2010 | 08:39 PM
#10
RE: Changing from glow to electric (tips?)
Hey Dave,
I have a West Mountain CBA. I always do a baseline discharge curve on new packs and plan to repeat every 25 flights to monitor battery health. However, it will only do 100watts, so I discharge at 4.7A on a 5s pack.
Do you think this is high enough to utilize for the break in cycles? I've been just flying them at partial throttle - no uplines and use the flights to work on my rolls.
Dan
I have a West Mountain CBA. I always do a baseline discharge curve on new packs and plan to repeat every 25 flights to monitor battery health. However, it will only do 100watts, so I discharge at 4.7A on a 5s pack.
Do you think this is high enough to utilize for the break in cycles? I've been just flying them at partial throttle - no uplines and use the flights to work on my rolls.
Dan
05-06-2010 | 09:01 PM
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From: pound ridge,
NY
RE: Changing from glow to electric (tips?)
ORIGINAL: DaveL322
I have 3 position switch which controls a throttle to throttle mix with offset. The mix only affects the throttle below about 30%.
Lowest position is brake engaged.
Middle position is slowest possible idle.
Highest position is a ''fast'' idle...typically about 300-400 RPM above the lowest idle. On high idle, stall turns and spins are much easier, as the airflow over the tail is increased, keeping the tail from going dead. Of course you can also just learn to hold a little throttle in these maneuvers, but the switch works well for me (and could be incorporated with flight modes if they are used for stall turns and spins).
Regards,
Dave Lockhart
Team Horizon/JR/Spektrum/Thunder Power, Castle Creations, Tech Aero
I have 3 position switch which controls a throttle to throttle mix with offset. The mix only affects the throttle below about 30%.
Lowest position is brake engaged.
Middle position is slowest possible idle.
Highest position is a ''fast'' idle...typically about 300-400 RPM above the lowest idle. On high idle, stall turns and spins are much easier, as the airflow over the tail is increased, keeping the tail from going dead. Of course you can also just learn to hold a little throttle in these maneuvers, but the switch works well for me (and could be incorporated with flight modes if they are used for stall turns and spins).
Regards,
Dave Lockhart
Team Horizon/JR/Spektrum/Thunder Power, Castle Creations, Tech Aero
Dave,
What transmitter do you use, and what switch on the tx do you use for this mix?
Thanks,
Joe
05-06-2010 | 09:06 PM
#12
RE: Changing from glow to electric (tips?)
Hey Dan,
3-5C is what is recommended by Thunder Power, so that is what I've done, and I with some packs, I can see improved balance and improved voltage under load after a couple cycles. Nothing dramatic, but enough to make me think it is worth my time to break the packs in. If I don't break-in a pack, I've found that it does take a few flights before it seems to make full power - again nothing dramatic. I've never tried 1C for break-in, so I don't know if that helps or not...surely it won't hurt.
I don't think I'd use the first or second discharge cycle as a baseline...I suspect the packs improve for the first couple cycles.
3-5C is what is recommended by Thunder Power, so that is what I've done, and I with some packs, I can see improved balance and improved voltage under load after a couple cycles. Nothing dramatic, but enough to make me think it is worth my time to break the packs in. If I don't break-in a pack, I've found that it does take a few flights before it seems to make full power - again nothing dramatic. I've never tried 1C for break-in, so I don't know if that helps or not...surely it won't hurt.
I don't think I'd use the first or second discharge cycle as a baseline...I suspect the packs improve for the first couple cycles.
05-06-2010 | 09:22 PM
#13
RE: Changing from glow to electric (tips?)
Joe,
I use the short 3 position switch on the top front left corner of the 12X. I also use the top back left tall switch as the kill switch (using the built in throttle cut).
Regards,
I use the short 3 position switch on the top front left corner of the 12X. I also use the top back left tall switch as the kill switch (using the built in throttle cut).
Regards,
