Try Commonsense RC, my friend runs their lipos in his hyperflea, NO PROBS, the prices are AWESOME, they also have a balencer that you can plug into a lipo charger to BALLENCE the cells, not just stop at the first cell that fills up

I have found a Lipo battery at common sense rc (7.4 volt - 2000mAh 10C Li-Poly Pack #2S2000-10) with dimensions of 18mm x 33mm x 84mm. That is about 24 mm longer than the stock battery that comes with the RTF version. Can someone tell me if it will fit?

In inches the LxWxH is 3.3"x1.3"x.7" for the LiPo from common sense, whereas the stock battery is 2.4"x1.34"x1.25". The only thing I need to know is whether the plane will take the extra length of .9 inches.

Wishing all a Happy New Year! I'll soon be using the Optic 6 with my new Easy Star. Mode II is more commonly used within the US, which is elevator on right stick and throttle & rudder on the left stick. I find it easier to fly with the rudder & elevator on the right. This is the case with learning to fly the Easy Star in FMS. Does anyone see any problems or disadvantages with this? I imagine that either set up is a matter of personal preference but there must be reasons for Mode II that I'm not seeing right now as a beginner. I appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance.

Hi Evadeom

Happy NY from Oz

Here down under most of our radio's are Mode 1 ie throtle/rudder right stick but because alot of hobby shops here bring in RTF planes from the USA and some can only be used in mode 2 and the problem comes when you move on to bigger and better planes and join clubs because they all fly in mode 1 (in Oz) and will train you in mode 1.

So back to your question if in the US if mode 2 is mostly used then set up the FMS as mode 2 and get practicing

Cheers Lawrence

Lawrence,

Happy New Year to you too. I'll stick with Mode II and practice more with it. Makes sense to learn it right at the get go. Thanks again.

Evadeom

Add another vote for the Easy Star. Motor in back where it's safe in a crash. Super durable. Comes with everything you need for around $180 from Tower Hobby. Very gentle flyer that can be flown very slowly if there's not much wind. It's big so you can really see it. You can get 10 minute flights easily with a little throttle management. I love to get mine up high, shut the motor completely off and look for some lift. Will fly in winds up to about 8 mph on my Davis Windmeter without any real anxiety and will fly in a bit more wind if the pilot has the skills. If you need parts a whole kit that has ALL the parts less electronics is only around $60. You can get all the help you want with this plane becasue there are so many people flying them (gee, ya think there's a reason for that?). There's even an Easy Star web site where guys from all over the world talk about what they've done with their E.S. http://www.mpx-easystar.de/ and there's the never ending E.S. thread over on Ezone. The main downside to the ES that comes to mind is that it really glides well and so you need a decent sized open area to land in especially in the beginning. The required area gets smaller as you get some experience.

I guess you could say I like my plane! I also like my combat Wings XE2 and my Whisper 2 flying wings . Never would have gotten to those wings without the ES but that's another story for another time.

Hi everyone. I'm just about finished building the Easystar. Should the wing be fairly easy to take apart? I made sure that the spar connector was not glued to the wing. I know that because prior to inserting the wing into the fuselage, I was able to connect the wing and disconnect. I did this a couple of time before connecting it to the fuselage. Now the wing is connected to the fuselage and I'm having a heck of a time separating it. Is there a secret or tip to detach the wings from the fuselage? I've been pulling quite hard but at the same time feel that any harder I might break something. Do I start separating the wings from the leading edge? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Hi

It sounds like you may have accidently glued the wings and fuse together because they pull off very easy thats why some of us put magnets in the ends so to keep them together while flying. I grab the fuse and pull the left hand wing (nose of plane facing you)and it pops out quite easily then the other side slides out with the spar in it, remove spar and throw into car
Simple

Cheers Lawrence

Thanks Lawrence. I probably put too much CA in the wings and should have waited for it to dry before inserting the spar connector. I'm pulling harder than it seems necessary and still it isn't budging. Guess I'll just have to make room when during transport. I was tempting to cut out the spar connector but I might get myself into bigger mess. I'll see how it goes. I appreciate your help.

There are many guys who glue the wings in to prevent an in-flight accident. It shouldn't be a big problem.

Yeah, that's probably the route I'll take. Thanks.

Here is a first

Well for me anyhow[X(][X(] Forget about birds chasing your RC planes because today I had a grey kangaroo chasing mine and not once but twice

The first time was when coming in to land the ES and gliding in from approx 150 m out as the plane got down to about 1m from the ground a grey roo that was 25m away to the right started hopping up behind the ES and as it came into land (near our table) the roo turned away and hopped back down to the long grass.

3 flights later and running down my last battery the roo's had moved out onto the short grass and while practicing some low level flying "Skippy" decided that thing in the sky had to go and chased the ES (running approx 15% throtle)backwards and fowards in front of us, I was laughing so hard I nearly landed but up'ed the throtle and the roo got within feet of the ES but when I brought it in towards our table he gave up and headed off around the next hill.

Cheers Lawrence

I read in a post that you should use 3M Poster tape to assemble the Easystar instead of glue. Is this still the best thing to use? It was an old post.
Thanks,
Truman

I used CA on mine and it worked well. I have heard of people used everything from masking or duct tape to Goop and white silicone caulking. If you want to be able to take it apart and change things, plan for it in advance. I will never be able to open mine.
Evan

Thanks Ecase,
I do want to take it apart in the future and want to know what works the best. I guess you could cut it open with a knife even if you used CA could you not? I want something that doesn't have to cure for very long. It will be here tomorrow and I want to fly it Wednesday. I know, I'm like a 62 year old kid with a new toy.
Truman

I know how you feel. I flew mine yesterday, but had a little problem, so I got only one flight. The only reason I can see to open it after its done is if you break something. Some people have been known to put a more powerful motor in it. Along with a bunch of other mods. I am flying my third EZ now. I crashed the h*ll out of this one a couple of months ago but repaired it and it flies great.
Have fun,

That is what I will do as soon as I teach a friend and my daughter how to fly it. I want to change to a brushless motor and ailerons. I have to have a plane I can land on grass. I fly in a 55 acre field in front of my house. The owner sells hay every year and I don't think he would let me use my lawn mower to cut a landing strip. Maybe this fall.
Truman

I realise this is an old thread - but perhaps some of you "EZ* fliers" are still looking-in from time to time, so perhaps you can help me with this:

I'm considering getting this model in order to get some flying-in during the UK's up-coming Winter (I plan-on leaving my IC gear and models in-storage until next Spring!). The EZ* appears to be ideally-suited to Winter flying, what with it's Epalor construction and the position of its motor/prop, but I'm wondering if any of you can confirm if the built-in motor thrust-line is correct

Why do I ask: I've read that the model climbs under power, so it could be that the motor needs a little up-thrust. If this is so, I'd like to know about it before putting the model together

So: Has anyone felt the need to change the motor's down-thrust? If so: how much did you need to change it?

Tony

If you are going with the stock motor, prop, battery etc, you leave it the way it is. If you are going to use a brushless motor, you might consider a small adjustment - BUT - most of us don't change the thrust line. Most just mix in a little elevator with the throttle. There are many modifications you can do to the EasyStar but they are not necessary, just fun. There are many people in the UK flying the EasyStar. Several of them post on this thread - http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...73081&page=240.
Evan

Thanks for this Evan

Tony

Tony,

If one uses a more powerful brushless motor, the tendency to climb under power will be exacerbated, so one would need to tilt the motor down at the rear (prop end) so as to push the nose of the plane downward. Remember that the motor is behind the CG, so you effectively are seeing rotation around that axis.

Thanks for this Phil - I understand perfectly what you're saying

I'm planning to go with a lipo & brushless set-up, so I guess the motor will need some (more?) up-thrust. But has anyone done this, and if so: how many (extra?) degrees were required to make the "climb under power" more manageable - without needing to mix-in some down ele please (I prefer that my models don't need this)

Tony

I'm using a 16/15/4 Mega and lipo in my EZ* with no modification to the thrust angle and she wants to dive at full power. A little up elevator is neede.

Well Tony,

I can see you'll need to try it with the stock angle and find out whether it needs adjustment... a washer at a time.... up or down!

I would imagine that the position of the CG might affect things - if you like a forward CG then it might dive under power, but if you prefer a CG fractionally rearward, then it may climb with power on.