Does anyone sell a Gas/GLow conversion kit? (prop hub-spacer and plug adapter)?

I tried that, but the first problem I hit was my standard size butane torch is not big enough - couldn't heat the muffler to desired temperature. I would need a welding torch for that.

I have used the alumaweld stuff with probably 85-90% success.I have never had something break after welding it just didn't work to start with. The secret to a good weld is to clean and scuff parts,then clean with a stainless steel brush. Get a good tight fit if possible and put parts on a cast iron skillet,place in oven at about 350-400 degrees.This allows you a lot more control since now you only need another 300-400 degrees to melt rod.VERY IMPORTANT heat part hot enough so that rod will melt when touched to part.Drag the rod in the seam keeping part hot always allowing contact with part to melt rod,
I have tried to just heat part and sometimes part will distort before rod will melt. I have added bosses to mufflers,patched up motorcycle parts,fixed an old XKE door handle,and a high pressure line on an air conditioner. You will know immediately if it is going to work because it will flow smoothly into gaps. THE ROD MUST BE MELTED BY DRAGGING ON THE PART.
Take time to set up parts where they won't move when you try to weld because you won't be able to touch them.
Try to make good fill as you go because it doesn't work well going over what you have done. It takes a little playing with but I have had pretty good luck with it. I just use a propane torch with a round flame.

Harbor Freight sells a different brand of these sticks for about $12 for a tube of 8. I bought some but I haven't had a chance to play with them yet.

Try the yellow cylinders. It's called map gas. It's a lot hotter.
Also have a friend bring his over and one pre-heat aa the other one welds.
This works with silver solder on smaller pieces.

But pre-heating in an oven is hard to beat if the pieces will fit in an oven.

You could get a BernzOmatic Mapp/Oxy welding kit..
It should get the temps you need.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...550&lpage=none

$50 at lowes

I have just a straight MAPP torch and it's much hotter with MAPP than Propane.

I went to local hardware store and got myself a MAPP-Oxygene torch (the same as the one fron Lowes). It burned so hot that actually I was able to get locally melting temperature. However the welding rod I tried to use was a junk. It melted all around the muffler but didn't stick at all.

At the same hardware store I bought some aluminium welding rods. I have no clue how they work but I tried them anyway. This stuff melted easy and even started to stick to the muffler parts. I'm not sure how good my welding is (I've seen better) and if this thing will hold. At least it holds now. If it doesn't work, I wil give up and let do it to someone who has right tools and knows what he is doing.

I hate this. I would rather build and fly planes than burn my fingers[:@]

Welding aluminum with those products is really tricky.....

I make my mufflers either out of gutted stock mufflers, or out of steel. I really think the steel mufflers I make are about the same weight as the aluminum ones you buy because they are made of thinner stock. One of these days I'll do a weight comparison, but I don't feel like it now because the only "store bought" muffler I have is on my cowled, Ryobi powered, Tiger Moth. Don't feel like taking it all apart to weigh the muffler.

AV8TOR

Actually I compared gutted stock with this alu piece and the weight is the same. I believe I can even make this gutted piece look nicer. It just doesn't have any exhaust tubes and that makes it very loud.

AV8TOR, show your steel mufflers, please.

The trick to weding or brazing Aluminum is be clean clean clean..
right before you start sand off all the oxidation from the area to be brazed with emery cloth.

Aluminum oxidizes very quickly.

And when you heat it up, it does it even faster[:'(]

I just weighted the oxygen bottle. I used 2/3 of it that is around 5 dollars worth of this gas. The muffler looks very ugly (like somone blew his nose on it[:'(]) but it holds up. I cleaned it a little with sanding drum mounted on dremel, and it looks like the balzing material sticks.

I think the main trick is in rubbing a hot aluminium part with brazing stick. It scraches the oxide from the surface and sticks to the raw material as it melts. It is just difficult to keep the aluminium part hot but to not melt the rod in the flame.

For this muffler it was impossible to heat up the whole part (not enough flame for that), soI heat up just a piece at the time by touching it the blue flame cone. For small parts hobby torch should be enough.

Here's a few pics of mufflers I've made. The canister Pitts style muffler on my Katana took a bit to make, but everyone remarks on how it sounds just like a real airplane engine in the air. The Fokker muffler has a neat sound as well. Actually, I like the sound of all of them!!

AV8TOR

Anybody know rjign (ralph) need to contact him.

Hey Cap looking for a carb for super tigre 2000 conversion. was told that walbro WT 625-1 would be a good choice. No where I guy can buy one from a reputable person. So easy to get ripped off online anymore. even here.

Troy

RCIGN1 RE: Ralph

http://www.rcignitions.com/

AV8TOR

tried him. took my money but no carb and he wont respond to my emails.

Ralph is "straight up". If he is not answering you, there must be a good reason. Hang in there.

I believe he is still involved with racing and may be away from home.

AV8TOR

That would explain his not returning emails or for that matter not knowing I have not received shipment. I'll hang in but if I can find another carb while waiting I will. flying season here is short and I am eager to fly this plane so I am still looking for a carb.

tstotts: Do you have a adapter to put a Walbro type carb on your Supertiger 2000? Also what about oil content? Just kinda trying to help. Just yell!!! Capt,n

Yes I have my adapter made and ready for the carb. I havn't totally decided on the fuel mixture yet and of course all suggestions are welcome. I have the engine on a H9 extra that flew quite well with a Magnum 91 before I put the S2000 on it. I am real happy with the power of the 2000 but the cost of nitro fuel has me converting it to gas/glow. the fuel that is most available to me is 10-16 byron.
I have had the plane ready for the carb for a couple of weeks now and am a bit impatiant to get it in the air again.

I did not think that methanol would be so hard to find.. It is being a real pain in the *****

Here's some links with the 10/10 glow fuel:

http://www.morganfuel.com/sw_blends.htm (16% Pro - 16% nitro, 10% oil) (Close enough to work.)

http://www.byronfuels.com/pages/products.html (Premium Super Tiger - 10% nitro, 10% oil) (This is what I currently use.)

http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmar...FV4.html?E+Sig (Tiger Blend - 10 % oil, 10% nitro)

http://www.magnumfuels.com/products.php (Super Tiger/Moki) (Ad doesn't say, but I think it's 10% oil)

Buy in quarts to avoid the hazmat fee, or bite the bullet and pay the hazmat fee and buy a case. (The 10% oil fuels are often cheaper anyway.) Worse that can happen is that you decide you don't like Gas/Glow, and then you have fuel you can add oil to and run in any glow engine....

AV8TOR

Thanks for the fuel tips Av8tor. I managed to get a local dealer to order some byron 10/10 so should have it soon.

tstotts: Have you ever thought of a lite gas engine with electronic ignition. Very cheap and easy to mix fuel. Capt,n

Here is another formula that I use that gives a good mix. I use it since the 12/20 is a very common nitro car fuel:

1 part 12/20 nitro
1 part methanol
3 parts gas

this yields a 2.4% oil (41:1) and a 4% nitro