If you were to read the 50+ pages in this thread (thats a lot of reading!) you would find that after all of the experimentation that went on, the mixture that was deemed the best was:

1 part 10/10 glo fuel (10% nitro and 10% oil)
2 parts HI-TEST gasoline

This is what you ended up with when you combined your 20/20 with the methanol

I do keep trying to tell them....

AV8TOR

That's why I call it AV8TOR Fuel Mix

Ha!

I think I should bottle it and sell it!!

AV8TOR

The AV8TOR Fuel Mix did not work good in my us and quadras.. I do not know why.. When I took the glow plug off the engine it would die. but when i ran it in a hommie and a rioby it ran grate. The rioby did not like the 15/17 2:1 Not at all.. It would ping and just run like crap...

He as asking about his quadras, so that is why I gave him my fuel mix. I still have some playing to do with it yet but I got some 20/20 and the meth. and was having the same prob that he was with his quadra that I was haveing with my us. (same engine)

I would love to know why the fuel mix works in some and not the quadras and us. The one thing Im not nuts about is having 3 cans of gas to go fly with 3 Plans..

But I did a big test to day with my plane and a quadra 35 on gas/glow.. I will typ it all out soon as I got time on how it did..

but got to love gas/glow

Paul

One has to understand that there are a lot of factors involved. I do not know what the compression of the Quadra/US engines are, but it might be low. Too low of a compression ratio would cause problems keeping the glow plug lit without glow power. In that case, more methanol and/or nitro would be indicated to help keep the glow plug lit.

Generally if an engine operating on glow quits, (assuming the glow plug is good), or loses rpms when the glow power is removed, it needs either:

A. More compression
B. More nitro
C. A hotter glow plug (We are already running a hot, four stroke plug.)

Ours is a special case with the gasoline mix. Hence my remark about perhaps more methanol helping in your case; to keep the catalytic reaction going with the lower combustion heat involved due to lower compression. (Assuming that is the problem!)

Once again, another option would be to run full time glow power with a 3000 mah or larger onboard battery in those cases that have problems running without glow heat. It's still cheaper, lighter, simpler, and more powerful than spark ignition, and has no interference issues.

AV8TOR

I ran it again this evening,runs decent but still playing with carb adj.Loses some rpm up to 1/2 throttle with power off plug. The amazing thing is I can hand start it.It does like to run backwards actually believe it runs better backwards.It has decent transition from fast idle up.
I should mention this is an older engine that seems to be well worn I traded for this to play with and beleive the compression is not what it should be because I can put a few drops of mystery oil in the cylinder and compression seems to double for 8-10 revolutions then drops again.
I read the post about adding more nitro or methanol to keep plug lit and will try that later. Just waiting for daylight so I can terrorize the neighborhood again!

I do not know if that is it or not but my us 25 has alot More compression then my hommie.. My starter will spin my hommie just fine but it will not spin my us 25. My drill will spin my us 25 but not my quadra 35.
That is what makes me thing that it has More compression. but it is hard to say.

Paul

My 14.4 volt Dewalt drill will turn this 35 to start on gas but with gas glow I get it slobbering wet and can flip start it.I was told this is a 35 but I don't see anything on it to identify size or brand.Could somebody tell me the difference? It says made in Italy and has a six digit # starting 438###. It has gilaroon or something like that on the case partly ground off.If it continues to improve I would like to try a new ring if I knew exactly what I had.

KI8FR: When I ran my Hommie on gas/glow...I had to have a muffler on it. Without it no Idle to speak of. Then I did a test you guys may want to try. When you idle engine down...cover the exhaust outlet with a piece of leather or use heavy leather glove. My engine then would idle to a very...very...slow rpm. I am still going to build a exhaust baffle that closes and is linked to throttle. Capt,n

That sounds like a great idea.

While im here, has anyone had luck using glo plugs other than the 4 strokers? I would like to find cheaper alternatives.

I ran it again awhile ago using 20-20mixed with 2 parts gas. Still flip starts but most time starts backward no matter which way it is flipped. Still have to leave power on glow 1/2 throttle down,doesn't die just noticeable drop in rpm. Here's the weird part running backwards it will hold idle at 1800,good transition but running in the right direction it will only hold 2000 rpm and does not transition as well Top rpm is 8100 didn' t push this . This is with a two outlet box type muffler and 17-6 prop on the 20-20 mix.
I see why this thread is so long, each time I try one thing it brings up three more questions? Its still fun though.

Running backwards - for the engine without rotary valve there is no difference which way it runs. But there is a difference in the load. When engine runs backwards, the prop is running backward too. Prop is not symetrical, so it has different load on each direction. This is why the engine wants to start as a "pusher".

As for the glow plug, I tried my Poulan 25 with the new glow adapter (the one on the picture a couple posts above). As you can see the plug is hidden deeper in the adapter (about 3mm higher). What I noticed there is no difference in engine running. This is with AV8TOR fuel. Idles about 2100 rpm, without dying, but doesn't run smooth. Also does not respond to slamming the throttle like it should. After long idle (about 30 seconds) it would die when I open the throttle wide. It goes OK when throttle is advanced slowly. WOT rpm is about 7100 without missing.

Just by connecting the battery to the glow plug an idle increases to 2500 rpm. Closing the throttle more I can get stable 1800 rpm. Even after long idle (more than 30 seconds) engine responds immiedietly to WOT. On full throttle by connecting the battery rpm increases by 300 rpm peeking at 7400rpm.

The one wired thing is, when I open the throttle after ilong idle, the engine jumps to 7200 rpm and for the next two seconds or so it revs up to 7400 rpm. This is with glow battery connected.

So the last thing will be running the lean fuel to test how long will it take to burn the glow plug (glow plug will be powered all the time). But that run I will need to do at our field, not on my backyard (my wife is good for only 10 minutes of the engine run ). The bad thing is, that yesterday while flipping the prop backward (trying to start it by hand) I hit the groung with my finger (auch) - no more flipping the prop for next few days (the whole joint is swollen and hurts like hell). When I told my wife this was from hand-proping the engine, she though I got hit by the prop, not the ground

Maybe that jump in RPM from 7200 RPM to 7400 is form the extra oil that collected from long idle. Just a Guess!!!! Capt,n[:-]

http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmar...FV4.html?E+Sig

Here is a link to SIGs dealer finder, they make "Tger Fuel" 10/10 blended castor and klotz.

More on Fuel 10/10 http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmar...FV4.html?E+Sig
CHAMPION "BIG BORE"
For use in larger 2-cycle glow engines where the engine manufacturer recommends a fuel with less oil (Super Tigre, Tartan, Bully, etc.) The total oil content of this blend is 12% (1/2 castor oil, 1/2 Klotz). The lower oil content can improve the idle and throttle transition of these large, slow turning engines. This fuel should not be used in any .010 - 1.00 cu.in. 2-stroke glow engines or in 4-stroke glow engines of any size. If in doubt, check with your engine manufacturer before running this fuel in your engine.

TIGER Blend Fuel
A special blend of castor and Klotz Synthetic lubricant especially made for large Super Tigre Engines.
10% Nitromethane
10% Blended Oils

Product Code Description Price Type Order
Quantity
SIGCF310 SIG BIG BORE FUEL 10% [GAL]
FLAMMABLE EACH $12.99
SIGCF602 SIG 10% TIGER BLEND [GAL]
FLAMMABLE EACH $13.79

The bad thing about that is if you want to get 1 from then it is 12.99 + 20.00 buck that is alot of $$ for fuel...

that sucks big time

If you purchase quarts there is no hazmat fee.
I have purchased from Tower before, but they no longer sell what I was buying

I did some flying test.

What I have is a hanger 9 cap 232 73". I have on it a us 35cc whit CH ignition on it.. I took out the spark plug and put in my glow.

I did not take out the nicad or the moduel out of it.. I did not want to chang the wight. Took the plane up and I did not see a big difrance in the way the play did, but what I did see is with the idle lower then was it was landing this plan was not the same.

This was not a good test with this plane cuz the plane is light with a big engine on it..

The next test I did I took out the Ch moduel, nicad and kill swich servo. I took off the CH ignition fly wheel and put on a bushing to take up the space.. Then I had to lighen up the tail to get the cg back to were it was..

Went for a flight.. now the diferance was un real.. It was not like the same plane... It took off in about 8 feet and was able to go strate up.. It was nice........

I can say one thing.. Gas/glow is hard to beet... Mixing fuel is a pain but what you get out of it is werth it.
Paul

that's what's all about

Amen.

AV8TOR

Hi Bob!!!!
how's your twin project coming along?
Have you found a plane for it yet?
I think that a nitro planes katana or Edge 540 for a 50CC engine would be right (although the wife doesn't think so). but anyways keep us posted, also if anybody else is having different results with their twin echo let us know its interesting to know that the gas/glow configuration works very good!!!
I adapted a walbro carb on my MAGNUM 1.80 engine and runned with a gas/glow fuel that contains 10% oil and 3% nitro and the results are "SUPERB" nice transition, low idle but I don't have a tach to measure it at this moment, I will take pics and post them later, I thought that I was going to end with a useless engine because there is no way I'm going back to expensive glow fuel but this way I recovered and I'm thinking of using it on an 80" profile that I will design for it I'll keep everybody post on it.
Later CONVERTS!!!!!!!

Hi Bill,

I'm thinking of putting the twin on my Giant Big Stik just for grins and to try it out. I just hate to change anything on the Giant Stik because it flies so well with it's Poulan 42cc on Gas/Glow. The twin runs great on Gas/Glow. It may end up on a Giant Scale Eindekker or maybe my 29% Extra. I kind of hate to put it on a cowled airplane, because it looks so nice!

Take care,
AV8TOR

This weekend I run my Poulan again. This engine is loud - I need some better muffler. The good thing is, that the engine test stand was far away from the pits, so nobody was pissed when this sucker run WOT for straight 30 minutes.

The results were quite optimistic. I run "lean fuel" (1 part of 15/18 Power Master glow fuel = 5 parts of Chevron 91 oct gasoline), that is very convenient as 15%nitro fuel is the most common used in USA and available in almost every hobby shop. Starting by hand just sucks. Not because it doesn't start, but because it starts backwards almost every time.[:@]. The engine starts after 4-6 flips but if 9 of 10 times it starts backward, that makes 40 flips to start it. After a couple tries I grabbed starter and the next second the motor is running pushing the air over the cylinder.

After I tuned the carb I got steady idle 1900 rpm and WOT 7600 rpm. The head temperature (it was over 90 under the sun) was about 215 F. After while I noticed that rpm dropped to about 7200 rpm. I checked the fuel and temperature and everything was OK. Then I connected voltometer to the glow plug suspecting burned plug, but I noticed that my battery run out giving out about 0.6V. I disconnected the battery and let engine run like that. The engine keept running 7200 rpm without missing a bit. However idle was not good any more. Going below 2500 rpm I was risking the engine would die. Also transition was not smooth. After long idling at 2500 rpm it took a long time with slowly opening the throttle to get full rpm again.

At this point I had about 2 oz fuel left. I opened the throttle and let it run till dry. It took 12 minutes WOT to burn this fuel. The mileage is really impressing. I checked the glow plug - still intact. I'm quite happy of this test. The next time i will run it, it will be in the plane. I found very good candidate for this engine: [link=http://www.spadtothebone.com/SPAD/corocub/Corocub_1.htm]Coro Cub resized to 90 inch span[/link].

The other problem I have with this engine is the muffler. I had to run gutted stock muffler (loud like hell) because I need to fix my regular muffler again. I got this muffler from Whackerengines (the one I showed in[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3196537]Step by step converting Poulan 25cc FL trimmer [/link]). Two tubes supposed to be screwed into the muffler's body and secured with tail pipe sealer. This doesn't work and whatever I do, both pipes vibrate loose after few minutes of running. I need to find some shop, that can weld aluminium to secure these pipes once forever.

I cannot speak from my own experience but it's reported that this stuff will work:

http://www.alumiweld.com/

or

http://durafix.com/

and there are many others marketing it