captinjohn

I plan to cut off the cap and while the connecting rod is still in vise , change form cutting saw to end mill and clean-up where rod cap seats on to rod. I will have drilled and tappped for rod cap bolts before splitting the cap off. Sound right? Capt,n[:-]

tim220225

My Feedback: (4)

Sounds good. I would still face the rods off to square them before you do any drilling or tapping. Also both ends as you will need reference points for your measurements.

captinjohn

Do you mean face off the sides or where the cap joins? Last to be drilled is big end then small end...correct? Thanks Capt,n

tim220225

My Feedback: (4)

Capt,n you want to start with a square foundation just like a house etc. I would machine both sides and ends to have flat planes you can use as a reference point for layout etc. At least one end and side. as I stated in a previous post. I have seen kits for engines that had or gave ideas for fixtures to hold different parts for machining, did yours? If not it isn't the end of the world you can get there another way. What kind of mill do you have? Whatever you do make sure the head is trammed in and square to the tabe prior to making any cuts. Do the 12 and 6 and 3 and 9 positions. Then square the vise to the spindle so that all your cuts are square.

Tim

captinjohn

Tim: I read you now...loud and clear!!! I was going to do just that. Now ...did you ever see a gaget you can chuck in mill that has a lazer dot that shoots down to exactly on center? I seen one on the web...now I cannot find it again. Are they worth having? Thanks Capt,n

tim220225

My Feedback: (4)

Capt,n

Glad you have the process down. Once you start it will make sense. Take it slow and think it through. Yes I have seen one of the lasers you are looking for and I have one. I got mine from www.lasercenteredgefinder.com

Here is a picture of mine. I like it and use it for many things. If I need to find an edge I still prefer an edge finder and or wiggler. Once I get the digital readout installed I will use the edge finder and the DRO. I really like it for lining up centers etc. I would like to see your mill, can you post a picture or two?

Tim

captinjohn

I found 2 photos in my puter....not the best photos. Will take new one also.

tim220225

My Feedback: (4)

Did that one come from Micromark? I almost got one like that before I got the Bridgeport.

captinjohn

It is a Harbor Freight Mill....same one Grizzly sells...but not green. Capt,n P.S. I can put a mirror finnish on the sides of that connecting rod. I like it!

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Is that the one they sell for just under $500 bucks Captain? Do you like it? Is it tight?

AV8TOR

captinjohn

av8tor: I do like it You can make it tight as you want...its got adjustable ways. Capt,n

captinjohn

It is a Habor Freight Model # 44991. Here is a photo of 1 of the 4 rods I am Machining. Capt,n

jpanhalt

I have the micro mill version which I got on sale for a good price (about $150). My intent was to use it just as a drill, but once adjusted, I found it could do light milling reasonably well. It is obviously not a Bridgeport. The one thing I don't like about it is the depth indicator. It is gear driven, fairly coarse, and not very reproducible. I ended up using my Indicol with a dial indicator on the non-rotating part of the spindle to get accurate depths. Aside from that, it works well. Of course, individual units vary quite a bit due to the lack of QC in China. My local HF was willing to let me take the best parts from a returned "defective" unit and the unit I bought to get a decent blend. John

captinjohn

I use the dial indicator like you said if precise work is needed. I have done good with the depth control if I keep a fair amount of tension on the ways with lock lever....while moving for depth. Then lock it solid before cut. as long as you going deeper and keep a fair amount of tension so the knob turns with effort...I can get good control. Hope I explained this correct. Capt,n

jpanhalt

I do the same as you do, if I only need to be approximate.

One caution: The dial on mine is numbered like any other dial, say, 0, 10, 20, 30, and back to zero. I made a dumb mistake once and thought that advancing from 20 to 30 (doing all the things to get rid of backlash) would increase the cut 10 thousanths. It didn't. It increases 20 thous. Of course, there is a label that says 0.002 per division. Also, between #30 and zero, it is not 5 or 10 divisions, it is 6 divisions or 12 thousanths. One full rotation is thus 72 thousanths. That is the type of mistake you only make once. From then on, I counted the actual divisions. John

captinjohn

When I get a chance I will check with dial indicater how much vertical travel one turn on my Harbor F. Model 44991 mill works out to be, then post it back here. Best Regards John, ooops Capt,n

captinjohn

I forgot to measure mill travel in one turn! But here is a couple of nice photos. Hog that piece of metal with a mill...then put it in lathe. Looks easy. It is for some guys..not me!!! Capt,n

flaminheli

Lookin good Capt,n.

captinjohn

Did anyone notice in photo 2 there was a piece of brass inserted in crank spaces? It is to help keep any flex in crank when machining the rest of the bearing areas. Capt,n

jpanhalt

Noticed it, but it is still a brave undertaking with a parting tool -- my least favorite tool. What alloy are you using? Good luck. John

captinjohn

This is not my work. It is the work of a freind. I am not sure what alloy he was using, or if he was using a parting tool. It may have just been turned in that position. He may have other tools in the tool holder. I will ask him. Best Regards Capt,n

Ralphbf

My Feedback: (27)

Are Atlas lathe parts still available?

I was given one the other day and the
teeth on the gear that move the carrage are broke off.

It's a handle shaft with a gear on the end.

Someone had it setting in their garage for 15 years.
Broke it the first time they played with it and for got about it.

The pulleys and belt look unused.

jpanhalt

Which Atlas? As you know, Atlas made the Sears flat-way lathes. You might find some used parts from that source on ebay. I had a small SB from a high school. The back gear had a few teeth missing from students using it as a brake. Ended up filling with brasing and recutting them, but that is a hard way to go. If you can find the correct size spur gear (I have used SPI), you may be able to make a replacement part failrly easily. John

Ralphbf

My Feedback: (27)

I've looked and looked and can't find a model number.

It's blue and has a plate with the name Atlas and the city and state, that's it.

Also I believe it's a 7 inch lathe.

jpanhalt

Do you have a picture of the lathe and the broken part? From your description, it does not sound like the part would be difficult to make, starting with a commercial spur gear. John