Makes very good sense, the TRD engines held thier prop hubs on with an assembly similar to that.

Scott

Ha ha... I just knew that post was going to trigger a request for photos! I will try to get some pics posted in the next day or so.

Take care,
AV8TOR

Don.t forget to have your assistant holding the flywheel when you take the photo!!!

Anyone wants another "blue light special" I will sell you a built and tested circuit and a hall sensor and magnet for $35 plus shipping..It takes 200 ma at any speed and will run on 4.8 or 6 volts..I have used these for 16 years and they are very reliable...They are larger than the C&H circuit....You will need a spark coil ..This is the bare circuit only, no box..
Coils are available from C&H, boxes from Radio Shack....I don't recommend Modelelctric coils because of the high voltage input from the CD circuit.....

If you send me your address and total I'd like to get one of your blue light special....Mike

Check your PM [8D]

Check your PM

Jean

Hi guys,

Sorry I haven't gotten those photos on yet. My wife's father had a massive heart attack. He's going to be ok, but it was, and still somewhat is, touch and go at times.

Capn John.... Sorry but it would be difficult to have my "assistant" hold the flywheel for the pics. I still haven't gotten around to buying a digital camera, and when I post pics here, I just scan the actual part with my computer scanner and then post that. I'm afraid my wife wouldn't fit into the scanner!!

Take care, and I'll try to get pics on soon,
AV8TOR

I sure hope your wife,s Father is going to make it back to real good health again. Is there a big lake near that beach or the ocean? I did have a plane to fly off water. It sure was fun. Take care of the Family....and God Bless Capt,n

Would the person who put a TIM6 unit on Ryobi sucessfully please send pic's and maybe info on mag size and mounting bracket for hall effect.I now have lathe so I can turn pieces for a monting ring.I'm almost completed with TIM6 on Q35 using the Hall effect will probably use approx. 3/8" magnet on a very small hub under 1" . thanks.[&:]

Hello:
I have missed the www adress for the tim - 6 ignition kit. with a friend are planning to use it in a Talon 22 cc engine in conversion process.
Does the kit comes with all the accesories needed?? I mean hall sensor, magnet, circuit, coil and plug boot??

Any inputs will be usefull.
Thanks.

Type in your favorite search engine Jerry E Howell you'll find he has very neat stuff at totally reasonable prices.[&:]

G/day everyone.
Are any of you blokes flying your converted engines. Are you using ppm or pcm recievers.
Thanks. Herb.

From my understanding, PCM is not recommended for use with gas engines because if there is any interference from the ignition system PCM might mask it until it was too late. I use PPM and have not had any problems. However, I am pretty finicky about my installations, shielding, etc.

Take care,
AV8TOR

pcm also costs a lot more which goes against the engine converters credo "more 4 less"....


dave

1972 Proline AM and FM, rubber spark plug boots, no interference.
Zenoah G38,G62, Q65, GT74, Q50, all with my ignition inside the mount...
Who needs technical trickery ?

G/day everyone.
Thanks for the feed back [ re PPM or PCM]. I guess each to their own, I regards to keeping cost down I cant agree more. I run pcm for my own peice of mind cause it has better filtering, not because of fail safe.
Cheers.

This has really been a great series of posts - have learned a lot - I've had a 18cc featherlite I've wanted to put in an 80" wingspan cub, but have hesitated as it's just too heavy - Think I'll order the TIM-6 ignition system w/coil and convert the engine - If that works well, I'll probably convert my 25cc homelite and maybe a 45 cc sthil I just got - although the sthil may deserve the CH ignition kit with the variable timing.

Has anybody figured out the parts list and cost for the CH kit. I am still unsure of what all I'd have to buy from CH to do the conversion. All this electricity stuff is just not my thing - so for those that understand it - please advise.

68. CH Ignition module high voltage board built and tested
build your own ignition. Does not include spark coil ........ $39.95
46. Ignition coil gray spark plug wire screws in ....................... $21.95
47. Ignition coil black spark plug wire is potted in .................... $19.95 ?????? Which Coil????

Can you use the existing spark plug wire leak, or should you purchase
10. Shielded plug lead with Bosch cover, 14mm ..................... $21.95 ???

Thanks

Ramrod25

with the cheaper coil you glue the plug lead in and then cuss at yourself for saving $2 when you need to take it apart[:@]

you will also need a hall sensor, magnet and some type of enclosure. if you're not the tinkering type it's probably better to get the ready made ignition.

the bosch boot is nice but it's also a bit chunky, especially on smaller engines. the regular old rubber boot with a braided shield on the lead works just fine.


dave

Summarizing, it appears that the CH ignition system needs the ignition module, coil with the option to attach the plug wire, hall sensor, magnet, enclosure, wire/plug to attach to a battery, and a cable to ground to the engine case. Total cost should be in the $80-85 range.

The TIM-6 system with the “PE� coil plus shipping is in the $50 range, and will need some wiring and a plug to attach to a battery.

I would assume both systems would be happy with about a 1200 mah 6 volt battery.

I would also guess that with both systems one would want to run a resister plug and a shielded plug wire.

Does that pretty much summarize both systems?

Ramrod25

Apparently no one read post #129..guess I was ASSuming again....

Has anyone sucessfully ran a Tim 6 unit w/hall effect on a gasser for any length of time let alone flew one?I've had mine running on a Q35 but I must say not that reliably and certainly could'nt trust it in the air just yet.I've found I'm loosing approx.1/2 volt thru switching transistor and about 1/4 volt to the coil thru everything else.I'm using a little heavier switch and wiring and going to a 6 volt 1300 Mah. pack in hopes of keeping the unit above the threshold that it cut's off for a longer period of time.My Q35 static timing is approx 28btdc. and dwell is 75 deg. Thanks[&:]

Rcign1, Which spark coil do we need to get from CH??

HEY: WHEN ARE YOU GOING TO FINISH SMOKIKG THAT STOOGIE?? HA! Capt.n

Either one works well..the gray one has mounting lugs, the other doesn't...

I have a CDI system that I would also like to sell as an after market item. I am looking for feed back from modelers that want to do some or all of the conversion to their weed whacker engines. I can supply a circuit board assembled with or without connectors for the hall switch and HV coil. I have successfully run engines using coils from CH, D&B, Zenoah, Model Electric PE coils. I can supply coils, hall switches and magnets. I am willing to work with anyone wishing to do a conversion to figure out what the best options might be. I would also invite a qualified active member to evaluate part or all of my system and report back to the community. I don't think you will have much luck with the Tim 6 unit, as I am quite sure it is designed for the old time engines and they do not require the spark energy that our engines do. I have just finished testing a Feather Lite 18cc engine. Total weight was 38.308 oz. and it was able to turn a Master Airscrew Classic 16x8 prop at 6500 rpm. I know you'll ask so my best guess on retail for the circuit board with no connectors will be in the $50 to $55 dollar range. I have not been able to find any inexpensive GOOD coils. The circuit I designed uses a PIC Micro chip and retards the spark to approximately TDC for starting and from full advance to full retard from approximately 3000 rpm to idle speed. I have engines that will idle at 1000 to 1200 rpm. I spent the 2003-flying season tweaking the system mounted on a 60cc Echo engine flying a giant scale Stinger. I would like to thank everyone in advance for your time and feed back. Thanks, Roy Sholl