Smallest trimmer for conversion?
#1
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From: Myrtle,
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I found a stihl 26 and a weedeater 21 featherweight.
Could either of these be converted into RC motors and still make enough
power to fly the plane and overcome the added weight of the motor?
Thanks
Could either of these be converted into RC motors and still make enough
power to fly the plane and overcome the added weight of the motor?
Thanks
#3
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From: london,
ON, CANADA
Here's my story on the 21 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=793079
#4
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From: Myrtle,
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Well we can forget the Stihl.
I got to looking at it and according to the way the starter rope pulled to get it started.
The stupid thing runs the wrong direction for a puller plane motor.
Dang, that would have been cool to go to the field and reached down and pull started
your plane to get it going.
Sorta like a tiny real ultralight.
Thanks
I got to looking at it and according to the way the starter rope pulled to get it started.
The stupid thing runs the wrong direction for a puller plane motor.
Dang, that would have been cool to go to the field and reached down and pull started
your plane to get it going.
Sorta like a tiny real ultralight.
Thanks
#5

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From: Lancaster,
WI
Smallest trimmer for conversion? I just aquired an Echo GT140B that is 13.8cc, I doubt it will pull much but that is small. Gas/Glow potential.
#6
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From: Myrtle,
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ORIGINAL: frenchie79
Smallest trimmer for conversion? I just aquired an Echo GT140B that is 13.8cc, I doubt it will pull much but that is small. Gas/Glow potential.
Smallest trimmer for conversion? I just aquired an Echo GT140B that is 13.8cc, I doubt it will pull much but that is small. Gas/Glow potential.
That is tiny.
good luck if you convert and keep me posted how it works out.
Thanks
#7
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From: Greenville,
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ORIGINAL: deadcell
Well we can forget the Stihl.
I got to looking at it and according to the way the starter rope pulled to get it started.
The stupid thing runs the wrong direction for a puller plane motor.
Dang, that would have been cool to go to the field and reached down and pull started
your plane to get it going.
Sorta like a tiny real ultralight.
Thanks
Well we can forget the Stihl.
I got to looking at it and according to the way the starter rope pulled to get it started.
The stupid thing runs the wrong direction for a puller plane motor.
Dang, that would have been cool to go to the field and reached down and pull started
your plane to get it going.
Sorta like a tiny real ultralight.
Thanks
Well you don't have to completely forget it. Is it a chainsaw engine? If so, it likely has the shaft coming out both sides of the crankcase. If that's the case, mount the prop to the other side.
If that's not the case, just buy a pusher prop for it. That'll turn it into a regular 'puller plane motor'.
#8
ORIGINAL: deadcell
Well we can forget the Stihl.
I got to looking at it and according to the way the starter rope pulled to get it started.
The stupid thing runs the wrong direction for a puller plane motor.
Dang, that would have been cool to go to the field and reached down and pull started
your plane to get it going.
Sorta like a tiny real ultralight.
Thanks
Well we can forget the Stihl.
I got to looking at it and according to the way the starter rope pulled to get it started.
The stupid thing runs the wrong direction for a puller plane motor.
Dang, that would have been cool to go to the field and reached down and pull started
your plane to get it going.
Sorta like a tiny real ultralight.
Thanks
#9

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From: AUSTRALIA
yes the first thing you should look into when buying / trying a whipper snipper engine is ; does it run the right direction for the available props.
#10
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From: Myrtle,
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ORIGINAL: captinjohn
Maybe you can use that Stihl....just use the other end of crank for the output shaft. Post a photo. we may be able to help you construct a engine mount...ect. Or as glo/gas it may run good backwords!!!! Capt,n
ORIGINAL: deadcell
Well we can forget the Stihl.
I got to looking at it and according to the way the starter rope pulled to get it started.
The stupid thing runs the wrong direction for a puller plane motor.
Dang, that would have been cool to go to the field and reached down and pull started
your plane to get it going.
Sorta like a tiny real ultralight.
Thanks
Well we can forget the Stihl.
I got to looking at it and according to the way the starter rope pulled to get it started.
The stupid thing runs the wrong direction for a puller plane motor.
Dang, that would have been cool to go to the field and reached down and pull started
your plane to get it going.
Sorta like a tiny real ultralight.
Thanks
This is the little reverse running dude.
Tell me if you think I'm waisting my time trying to convert it.
I really want a gas engine for my 78in span Kadet Senior.
It weighs between 8 and 10 pounds.
Only thing is, with all that wing 78x15 it floats and the factory
only recommends a glow 20 to a glow 40.
I don't want a speed demon.
Just something that is easy to start, sounds great and doesn't cost $15 a gallon for fuel.(although gas may end up there!!)
Thanks
#11
Looks fine to me...take a photo from front...with recoil starter off. Thats where you want prop. Th backside could be used to mount engine to plane. Get rid of flywheel,coil, ect and run it on Gas/glow. Should weigh a lot less. Capt,n
#12

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From: Superior,
AZ
On that engine your going to find that the starter pawl is left hand thread,only 3/8ths inch long,and not tapered.What i would do is take off flywheel,cut out center with hole saw.Then i would turn the crank around in the case and then put the cut off flywheel center on the crank and screw a prop hub to that.Then run on gas/glow,or use a battery cdi.Weedies use the same bearing and same seal on both ends.The engine wont know wich end is front or back.
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From: Superior,
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Dont really have to.What you do is remove the piston pin and reverse the crankshaft and leave the piston in the same position.Then put the piston pin back in.Dont even have to remove piston from cylinder,just drop down low enough to remove wrist pin.Dont have to expose rings at all.
Also,most engines the ports are at 12 oclock and 6 oclock running with the crankshaft.Most pinned rings are done at 5 and 7,or 11and 1 so they ride on each side of the ports where the cylinder is smooth all the way to the dome.If they dont,thats when youll see the post in the exhaust port so the ring doesnt hang on the edge.
Also,most engines the ports are at 12 oclock and 6 oclock running with the crankshaft.Most pinned rings are done at 5 and 7,or 11and 1 so they ride on each side of the ports where the cylinder is smooth all the way to the dome.If they dont,thats when youll see the post in the exhaust port so the ring doesnt hang on the edge.
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From: Myrtle,
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ORIGINAL: buck1856
On that engine your going to find that the starter pawl is left hand thread,only 3/8ths inch long,and not tapered.What i would do is take off flywheel,cut out center with hole saw.Then i would turn the crank around in the case and then put the cut off flywheel center on the crank and screw a prop hub to that.Then run on gas/glow,or use a battery cdi.Weedies use the same bearing and same seal on both ends.The engine wont know wich end is front or back.
On that engine your going to find that the starter pawl is left hand thread,only 3/8ths inch long,and not tapered.What i would do is take off flywheel,cut out center with hole saw.Then i would turn the crank around in the case and then put the cut off flywheel center on the crank and screw a prop hub to that.Then run on gas/glow,or use a battery cdi.Weedies use the same bearing and same seal on both ends.The engine wont know wich end is front or back.
How much gas do you mix with how much glow?
How do you put a teenie weenie glow plug in the big hole where the sparkplug goes?
Not to seem stupid but isn't that going against the idea of using an engine because the fuel for it is cheaper?
I mean gas is high at $4 a gallon, but thats still way cheaper than $15 to $20 a gallon for glow fuel.
Thanks
#18
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From: london,
ON, CANADA
GAS/GLOW is 1/3 10%nitro/10%oil glow fuel mixed with 2/3 premium gasoline and an OS 4 stroke type F glow g mounted in one of these http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=ZEN23445 this allows you to loose all the heavy ignition components and it also means no interferance and easy starting and a lower idle.
#19

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From: Superior,
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Besides of what microsprint posted there are other good reasons. Besides your not paying 14-18 dollars a gallon because your mixing with gas so its like a cheaper version of glow.You also dont get all the excess oil and goo either because of the gas mix.Losing all the ign components also means lighter weight.Go look at the gas/glow thread.Here in the engine conversions.
#20
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From: Myrtle,
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So, how hard is it to cut out the flywheel with a holesaw?
And your saying I can take all the ignition stuff off down to the bare engine and it will basically be a GIANT glow engine.
I'm assuming the 1/3 of glow in the gas is just enough to keep the plug lit?
Not to ask a stupid question, but how well does the gas/glow mix?
Does it stay mixed or do you have to shake it up everytime you fill the tank?
Also, do you keep all the tygon fuel tubing since its basically just souped up gas?
Sorry for all the questions, just curious.
And want to know all my options, pros and cons before cutting up a perfectly good flywheel.
DC
And your saying I can take all the ignition stuff off down to the bare engine and it will basically be a GIANT glow engine.
I'm assuming the 1/3 of glow in the gas is just enough to keep the plug lit?
Not to ask a stupid question, but how well does the gas/glow mix?
Does it stay mixed or do you have to shake it up everytime you fill the tank?
Also, do you keep all the tygon fuel tubing since its basically just souped up gas?
Sorry for all the questions, just curious.
And want to know all my options, pros and cons before cutting up a perfectly good flywheel.
DC
#21

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From: Superior,
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Check out the gas/glow thread here in the engineconversions.Theres to much to explain but after you read just the first few,maybe 6 pages youll get the idea.heres a pic of my 31cc ryobi i just did.Cut out center of flywheel,trued up in lathe,then screwed hub on.You can see the magnet in the flywheel hub.I also rounded the cylinder for a more airplane look.Total weight as in the pic with ign is 3-1/4 lbs.I would really suggest you go to the gas/glow thread to help with a decision.But it might be easier in your position right now just to get a ccw engine,what size are you looking for or what size and style of plane are you going to put it on?
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From: Myrtle,
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ORIGINAL: buck1856
Check out the gas/glow thread here in the engineconversions.Theres to much to explain but after you read just the first few,maybe 6 pages youll get the idea.heres a pic of my 31cc ryobi i just did.Cut out center of flywheel,trued up in lathe,then screwed hub on.You can see the magnet in the flywheel hub.I also rounded the cylinder for a more airplane look.Total weight as in the pic with ign is 3-1/4 lbs.I would really suggest you go to the gas/glow thread to help with a decision.But it might be easier in your position right now just to get a ccw engine,what size are you looking for or what size and style of plane are you going to put it on?
Check out the gas/glow thread here in the engineconversions.Theres to much to explain but after you read just the first few,maybe 6 pages youll get the idea.heres a pic of my 31cc ryobi i just did.Cut out center of flywheel,trued up in lathe,then screwed hub on.You can see the magnet in the flywheel hub.I also rounded the cylinder for a more airplane look.Total weight as in the pic with ign is 3-1/4 lbs.I would really suggest you go to the gas/glow thread to help with a decision.But it might be easier in your position right now just to get a ccw engine,what size are you looking for or what size and style of plane are you going to put it on?
and i'm looking to put it on my Lanier Stinger 120
I had at one time a Quadra 50 on it, but traded it for something else.
Wish I had the Q50 back now!!
Trying to get all this done without spending a ton of money.
Thanks DC
P.S. I read the first 10 pages and last 10 pages of that thread on gas/glow.
Sounds like all I need is the spark/glowplug converter , and some glow fuel to mix with gas.
I'm curious if its a bad idea to mix flow fuel that has a higher content of oil in it with the gas.
Will that hurt anything?
#24

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From: Superior,
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Your not using that much oil,your to buy the 10 percent nitro,10 percent oil content glow fuel.When mixed with the gas you probably only have about 8% oil content maybe.And the ryobi will never have the power of a Q50.Look up ryobi 31 in the search bar under this forum and youll see what it flies.The ryobi may fly it but i dont think very good,but i could be wrong depending on weight.
#25
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From: Myrtle,
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ORIGINAL: buck1856
Your not using that much oil,your to buy the 10 percent nitro,10 percent oil content glow fuel.When mixed with the gas you probably only have about 8% oil content maybe.And the ryobi will never have the power of a Q50.Look up ryobi 31 in the search bar under this forum and youll see what it flies.The ryobi may fly it but i dont think very good,but i could be wrong depending on weight.
Your not using that much oil,your to buy the 10 percent nitro,10 percent oil content glow fuel.When mixed with the gas you probably only have about 8% oil content maybe.And the ryobi will never have the power of a Q50.Look up ryobi 31 in the search bar under this forum and youll see what it flies.The ryobi may fly it but i dont think very good,but i could be wrong depending on weight.
When I first got it, it had a 32 mcculloch that had been converted.
Then I switched to a Quadra 38, then finally ended up with the Q50.
The 32 would fly it, but nothing like the Q50 would.
I'm not expecting alot from the Ryobi.
Maybe I should be looking in another direction for this.
Thanks



