In the video it shows a tackometer that appears to be on a lap-top screen. If it is where do you get the soft-ware to display this neat visual data? Thanks capt,n Hesperia Mich

Jimmybondi, Here is a photo or so of a small distributer. I know the guy who made it and has nice video of the 4 cylinder in-line engine. It is a model of a Holt Captipillar engine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tl0nD1smbAg = Running

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AjQLK...eature=related= Running

Hi Capt,

you get it from here: http://www.electronics.gompy.net/cdi/

Hi Folks,

Anyone have the spread sheet for Nyemi's code?

Hi Charlie..
Sent it to you in an email.

John

Thanks John.

Charlie, how's the testing going? I just ordered alot of parts from both Mouser and All Electronics parts suppliers. Hopefully now I won't run out of the simple things it always takes to build the boards. With all the changes over the past months to both versions of the timers I had run out of everything here. Probably will feel like Christmas when the orders arrive!

Building a new combo board of the second version of timer and my CDI, and I noticed a few things I did wrong (component choices) which caused intermittent operation. Now it should be even better than before, without the faults. Capacitor choices mean alot. Like Rob had once said, "you can't build a quality product with junk parts!"...

John

It seems like there is a slight lack of interest on this forum lately. Isn't anyone building any of these projects? I recently built some of the 2nd version of the old timer boards to experiment with. All of them work just fine with Nyemi's code and advance curve programmed into the 16f628 chip, without the test feature of course.
Tested the 3rd schematic for a power board and that works pretty good also..so far only on my breadboard, no board positive layout yet. The MC34063 chip does a great job of providing the frequency for high voltage generation in the circuit. So far it works up to 25,000 rpm with a small CDI style coil, and a SS443a hall effect trigger. Anyone else building the boards?

John

Hi

i'm from italy. i tryed the Gompy CDI project, but i have a comunication problem with the software!

The Software in the PIC work great, but with no comunication with PC software trougth Max232 TTL converter.

this are the errors the i have!

can anyone help me?

thanks for replyes!

Joe[img]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Z3US/Desktop/Immagine.JPG[/img]

Hi Joe..
Make sure your com port is set for 38000 baud first before trying to access it with the software. Do not try to access it more than once or an error will occurr. Also try switching the 2 wires for communications on the timer board..rx & tx.


John

it's really strange this!

usually the com port was setted by the software. so, i'll try this way.....i hope it start to work.

ah......one more question.......do you have found a commercial transformer for build the CDI module? or i have to create my own??

ok.....it's very strange, but now it work. but......i don't know what i did for.

now, we have to test it on my engine, and maybe, after add some function that i need. IF is possible to have the surce code.....

for exemple, add 2 different advance table, or add an encoder or a trimmer for change on-line +-2° all the table.


Joe

Hi Joe..
Sorry but there isn't a source code available to change. The older version had the source code but it is different than the new version so it won't work on the newest version.

John

uhm, ok. no probelm. it is correct! but, can i have a something like a starter source code that i can use to create my personal version? like a base code, without PC comunication and others function, only the delay routine!

but, yesterday i finished the gionpy's cdi and i tested it on my vespa. with small modifies at the pulse input part, it works great! only sometime it freezes and the "flash led" stay fixed ON and i need to reset the unit. but i think 2 more filter capacitors will resolve the problem!

can i post some photos or one video of the motor running?

No questions / no awnsers http://www.test.gompy.net/newcdi.zip
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4344316/tm.htm

thanks Gompy! i will try to do sometings!

picture of running unit soon!

what should be done to make this cdi fit for an opposed twin cylinder2 or 4 strock?????

Output into a twin coil...
John

thank you John , i will give a try and see if the cdi can drive 2HV coils.

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt"><span style="line-height: 115%; font-family: ">hi guys,

i am relatively new here. I got to RCU by doing a google search for &ldquo;cdi for model airplanes&rdquo;. I soon after joined the group. I have a friend that taught me to fly that had a ch ignition (mechanical advance) system on his plane. It was timed such that when idling, there was barely enough momentum to get to TDC before it would fire. sounded awesome!. i have read 3 threads (totalling well over 2000 post's)on the cdi. this has taken a couple of weeks, with numerous foray&rsquo;s to other pages via the links. My eyes hurt<span style="mso-no-proof: yes"><shapetype id="_x0000_t75" stroked="f" filled="f" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" coordsize="21600,21600"></shapetype> <stroke joinstyle="miter"></stroke><formulas></formulas><f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></f><f eqn="sum @0 1 0"></f><f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></f><f eqn="prod @2 1 2"></f><f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></f><f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></f><f eqn="sum @0 0 1"></f><f eqn="prod @6 1 2"></f><f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></f><f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></f><f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></f><f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></f><path gradientshapeok="t"></path><lock aspectratio="t"></lock><shape id="Picture_x0020_1" type="#_x0000_t75" alt="http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/punymce/plugins/emoticons/img/trans.gif" style="width: 0.75pt; height: 0.75pt; visibility: visible; mso-wrap-style: square"></shape><imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\User\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\02\c lip_image001.gif"></imagedata></span>! i recently made it known to some friends that i use weedeater engines in a plane i am building and viola, i now have 5 weedeaters to convert to rc. a rear carb ryobi, a couple of stihl&rsquo;s and a couple of homelite&rsquo;s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>all 2 stroke. i plan to use CDI with advance instead of the magneto. i originally planned to use a mechanical advance, along with the circuit posted by gr8flyer55 back around post #690 in the previous thread, since most of the discussions here were about issues with the programming the timing board. but after some thought and reading a few tutorials online about programming a PIC, i think i can do it! I think it is important to know that if it were intended for this project to be for the AVERAGE RC enthusiast, then much more work is to be done. RC modelers/flyers are by their very nature, a tinkerer. However; not all are electrical engineers. I myself survived school long enough to get an engineering degree and further proved my tenacity by getting a P.E license (mechanical engineering).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>I know just enough about electronics to be truly dangerous. I can wire a house, wire a vehicle and have even replaced the capacitors in the jeep ECU. but I have no idea WHY the components for the CDI were chosen, what avalanching is, why tantalum capacitors are better or worse than electrolytic etc, etc.</span>

</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt"><span style="line-height: 115%; font-family: ">What is truly needed now is a tutorial on how to really build this system. this was requested by gompy back in post #313. I don&rsquo;t remember seeing it anywhere. there was more than one request for photos of working systems on airplanes and I don&rsquo;t remember seeing them either? is this all top secret? come on guys, pics. now for the fun part.</span>

</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt"><span style="line-height: 115%; font-family: ">looking at gompy&rsquo;s site. I click on the link for weedeater and see the schematic dated 09/19/2010<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>rev A3, however; I have never seen a parts list with complete part numbers. a quick look at digikey or allied shows numerous BT151&rsquo;s and likewise for tip3055. does anyone have a parts list for us non-electrical types?</span>

</p></p>

</p></p>

</p></p>

</p>

I also have been following this thread, but there seems to be no guide to build this unit or a easy to understand parts list. Maybe other people would like to build this unit also....but I get the feeling that if your not looked upon as a pro...you are not going to get much from the rest of the guys that are in the "know" ...like the elite only!!!! Capt,n

Hello Wildman90
I’ve waited a few days before responding to your post in order to gauge how much interest there is in this thread. Obviously not very much. Let me give you a little of my background. I wanted to get away from nitro powered glow engines so I figured the best way (and cheapest way) to do that was to convert a weed wacker engine. I have a compound vise that I mated up with my drill press to serve as a poor man’s milling machine; I don’t have a lathe so I had to use my neighbor’s. My first attempt at a conversion was a 31 cc Homelite. I wanted to use CDI ignition so this thread intrigued me considering the fact that CH ignitions were running around $110.

I began gathering materials for this project and quickly realized that the cost of the individual parts and pieces was going to exceed what I could buy an RCexl ignition (and this was with gr8flyer55 graciously agreeing to supply me with a step-up transformer and programming the EPROM). So I gave up trying to build an ignition and bought an RCexl for my conversion. After all was said and done I ended up with a heavy, underpowered engine. I realize others on this forum have converted Homies and achieved pretty good performance, but they have achieved this by porting and other mods that require an in-depth knowledge of how these 2-strokes operate. Way beyond me.

The reason you are not getting a lot of feedback on this subject is that there is not that much interest in building home brew ignitions, not that the folks who have built them are elitists. Don’t take this the wrong way, but if you can’t develop a parts list from a schematic diagram then you are out of your depth. Do you know the difference between DIP and SMT? Do you know the difference between a buck-boost switching circuit and a flyback switching circuit? This is definitely not a cook book project and you should be well grounded in fundamentals before attempting a project like this. The biggest advantage to building your own ignition is repairability. This advantage disappears if you don’t understand how it works. This thread is about building a home brew ignition, not a tutorial in electronics.

There was a time when the cheapest way to get into gassers was to do it yourself. Times have changed. The DLE line of engines allows you to run a high performance 30 cc engine at a reasonable cost and RCexl provides ignitions for the masses. I now fly three of them. But that’s just me.

With all that said, if tinkering with electronics floats your boat, then have at it and enjoy. You will learn a lot as you go. Just don’t expect a lot of help on this forum.
Good luck

Bert

Hi everyone,

Yea this thread has slowed down. Come on guys this is not rocket science. If you have a schematic then you should be able to make something work. Its pretty simple really. The worst part of this whole thing is making the transformer. I prefer the bobbin and E core type. Although I have wound a toroid. Have any of you made a pcb for the ignition? That is where you needs to start at. other that the transformer installing the other parts is a matter of bending the leads to the right spacing and soldering in place. The transformer leads have to go on a certain spot. But if you make the transformer you know what leads are start of the primary, start of the feedback and secondary you will be ok.

Bert,

If you make one unit then yea parts will cost you more than you can buy one for. If you buy say 25 of each part then your get a break. Try looking at mouser electronics or your local electronic supply house for parts. they are really cheap. Most of the parts are passive components that are really cheap.

thanks for the replies,

yes i know my way around the soldering iron. i can wind the toroid.  i can do it all,i am  just not an electrical engineer. we need to know the values for the components. for all of the posts on this subject, it certainly lacks substance in the way of pics and specific info. how hard is it to let us know the parts they use???? if i do figure it out, i will post specifics here for all to use. if you do order parts, you need to order bulk to get the $$$ down to something reasonable. i dont want to order a bunch of parts that i dont need. maybe i can buy a commercial product and copy it?

have agreat day- chuck

you don't need anything fancy or a whole lot of knowledge, all you need is a degree wheel that you can print off the internet, and some way to modify the exhaust port to get it near 150 degrees open duration, I've used a rat tail file once... that will get it more competitive, but a larger carburetor is usually needed also.

I'm interested, but electrical engineering wasn't my strong suit n school that's why I became a mechanical engineer.