thanks cptn.

replaced magnut and still not working

were can i get a new sensor for a rcxal egnition?????

Charlie..
I got the French 2cv timer-TCI board working..go figure..bad IGBT the first time around..I pulled an N-channel mosfet off an R/C car brushed motor speed control (RFP50N05) and soldered it in place of the IGBT and now it is working great! It does get quite warm though at high speeds.

Using a 4.8 volt pack and a Modelectric coil doesn't give you much run time on a weedeater motor , around half an hour, but it does work. Used the stroboscope to set the timing while it was running and all is well!... Now at least I have something to test run all these converted engines I made.

Now on to the Sport devices CDI testing.. Still need the hex file to program the chip. Someone should have figured it out by now I would think..written with the CCS c compiler makes it difficult to translate over to another compiler..All I need is the compiled hex file with a good curve for weedeater engines and I'm ready to test it.

John

bates517,

If you just bought it why not call the manufacturer and let them know of the problems. they should make good on you purchase. However if it is used then ther are several sources to get hall sensors. here for example http://www.cncengines.com/ic.html . look at the pic third from the bottom.

Or buy a unipolar hallsensor for less then $1.

got it working thanks guys

Hi,

what is your experience about minimum diameter for a distributor ?

it should look like this:



to "fit" to my engine i'ld like to use an inner diameter of 35mm or less.
on 35mm dia the distance between caps is 14mm - maybe more when arrange the caps more to outside
the maim cord (middle one) max be changed to outer side (a ring on the rotation part of the distributor ...

but i need an indicative value what is possible
my spark plugs are rimfire VR2

Frank

PS:
is there anyone who is in time to build 2 CDIs for me ?
i'm very untalented on electrics :-(

Charlie, have you done a board for the Sport Devices CDI-timer in Diptrace yet?

John

Hi Charlie,
Coils are about the same size but only have three terminals. Primary and secondary are tied togeather inside the coil,m ake it a little eaiser to install plug wirel.Have lots of both resistor and non resistor 5 MM p;ug wire.
Thanks BC

In air you need for 1000 Volt / 1 mm isolation.
If the distance between two outputs is more then 10 mm, your rotor can handle 10,000 Volt

Hi John,

No I have not got around to it yet. If you need me to I can. I am still working on the C code. CCS sucks. I am wanting to try code that I revised from Neyme. My offer still stands if you want I can walk you through using MikroC.

Hi Bill,

Hope all is well. Thanks for the info.

John,

I got the code to compile for the 16F84 and the 16F628. Thanks to a member on the CCS forum. I am testing to see If I can make it work.

Jimmy,
You will find you need to make rotor arm with an "arc" on the end to allow for the total advance you will be using. This allows spark to jump least distance through range of advance/retard in your distributor. Keep in mind that higher compression requires higher voltage to jump across spark plug and this is sometimes where people come unstuck as spark will jump everywhere except where you want it to. If you can chase up and old distributor from a wrecking yard you will see what I mean about the rotor arm. Trouble is I guess, over where you are it may be difficult to find anything that goes back 20 years.

CDI on minibikes

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZhCHRXMGqkE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N5e6hb4d3nM

Hi Rob!
Is it our ignition project?

YES !!
He will make some other videos this weekend.

Charlie..
I am itching to try this new board (Sport Devices) but I can't see how the table gets added to the hex file.. Is there something I am missing?

John

Anyone else know how the programming of the 2 curves is accomplished in the Sport Devices CDI auto advance board?

Also, does anyone have the hex file compiled with the CCS compiler?
John

John,


I do. I emailed it to you.

John,

I don't know. You would have to email the guy that wrote the code.

Charlie.. the hex didn't seem to work on the board.. you have any luck? When I power up, the led blinks once and that's all the activity I get from it.

John

I realy don't know why we (the programmer and I) have done so much work....

Rob..
I appreciate all you and the programmer have done with the projects. I like to try all new projects also. Some of them work ok, but not all of them. The one that works best is yours, if I had to do a comparison between all the others out there and all of yours.

I think I have worked out all the bugs I have created by using either bad parts salvaged from projects or totally wrong values which cause my problems here.

Test ran your latest timer board and software today on one of my engines on the test stand. I wish I had a video camera to show you and everyone else how well it works. All I can do is show pictures which doesn't do it justice. There are so many features you have added in both software and hardware that make it the best product out there. I am giving up on trying others that fall short of the standards we all want.

John