john deere starting fluid
06-11-2015 | 08:02 AM
#26
Best way to milk the spray can? Find a spray tip that fits an extension straw and the JD feed tube. Change to that spray tip and straw. Find a catch jar for which you have two screw caps. Punch a hole in one screw on cap large enough to pass the straw. Fill the jar, remove the JD and shake the can well. You can milk out more about twice that way.
That way you limit the dangerous vapor (vapour?) and more ends up in the jar.
06-11-2015 | 10:45 PM
#27
Fiery,
I seem to recall comments on this site or Barton that the 'other' 20% was propane, butane or similar gaseous material. Does that term suit the "petroleum ether" you mentioned?
If so, the flammable qualities of those would enhance the 'starting fluid' abilities of the JD product for its intended use.
Personal, anecdotal info:
A few years back, I tried to 'capture' as much liquid from a JD can as possible - by inverting the can so that no liquid sprayed out, 'venting' the propellant off, to where it barely sighed when the cap was pressed. At that point, I used an awl to punch through the can's rim. It served as a bung, and vented considerably more 'propellant' as it was eased out. When that seemed to cease, I punched a few more rim holes so I could pour the liquid into the catch jar. All work done quickly, of course. The propellant is not the only rapidly evaporating material in the can. The ether also goes away quickly.
Sealed in the catch jar; quickly used to blend an approximate liter fuel batch, and sealed* as soon as ingredients were all in the field can... At the field, needle settings were very irregular. There were obvious puffs of pressure, more than ether evaporation should show, when the can, the syringe. or the tank were vented... Conclusion: residual gaseous propellant was still dissolved in the field can contents. Engine vibration likely enhanced its release, too.
The straw equipped spray cap method of rendering the ether out of the can, mentioned above, defeats this problem. The propellant vents out in the catch jar, through the clearance space around the straw. The glass sides of the catch jar help chill the spray so that the ether resolves into liquid while the gaseous propellant diffuses into the environment. No further needling problems. QED?
*1. Sealing the metal field can: plumbers' Teflon tape on the cap threads works very well.
*2 Punch the metal cap for two brass tubes to pass through. One gets an extension to the bottom of the can, the other barely penetrates the cap metal. Both soldered, of course... A half-loop of black neoprene fuel tubing to close the feed and vent tubes. (NB: Mark which is the vent and which the feed tube. Wrong one opened first will 'christen' you and the vicinity like your first-born son did. (Which wastes fuel, BTW.) ) I use aluminum tube for most of the internal extension to the bottom, and Tygon for the connectors.
I seem to recall comments on this site or Barton that the 'other' 20% was propane, butane or similar gaseous material. Does that term suit the "petroleum ether" you mentioned?
If so, the flammable qualities of those would enhance the 'starting fluid' abilities of the JD product for its intended use.
Personal, anecdotal info:
A few years back, I tried to 'capture' as much liquid from a JD can as possible - by inverting the can so that no liquid sprayed out, 'venting' the propellant off, to where it barely sighed when the cap was pressed. At that point, I used an awl to punch through the can's rim. It served as a bung, and vented considerably more 'propellant' as it was eased out. When that seemed to cease, I punched a few more rim holes so I could pour the liquid into the catch jar. All work done quickly, of course. The propellant is not the only rapidly evaporating material in the can. The ether also goes away quickly.
Sealed in the catch jar; quickly used to blend an approximate liter fuel batch, and sealed* as soon as ingredients were all in the field can... At the field, needle settings were very irregular. There were obvious puffs of pressure, more than ether evaporation should show, when the can, the syringe. or the tank were vented... Conclusion: residual gaseous propellant was still dissolved in the field can contents. Engine vibration likely enhanced its release, too.
The straw equipped spray cap method of rendering the ether out of the can, mentioned above, defeats this problem. The propellant vents out in the catch jar, through the clearance space around the straw. The glass sides of the catch jar help chill the spray so that the ether resolves into liquid while the gaseous propellant diffuses into the environment. No further needling problems. QED?
*1. Sealing the metal field can: plumbers' Teflon tape on the cap threads works very well.
*2 Punch the metal cap for two brass tubes to pass through. One gets an extension to the bottom of the can, the other barely penetrates the cap metal. Both soldered, of course... A half-loop of black neoprene fuel tubing to close the feed and vent tubes. (NB: Mark which is the vent and which the feed tube. Wrong one opened first will 'christen' you and the vicinity like your first-born son did. (Which wastes fuel, BTW.) ) I use aluminum tube for most of the internal extension to the bottom, and Tygon for the connectors.
06-11-2015 | 10:49 PM
#28
Dieseltinus...
I've never done that. By using the above straw technique, you control how much and when the spray enters the catch jar. Outdoors, in a well ventilated location, you might not even notice the ether smell. Chilling the propellant before spraying into the catch jar night just delay full venting off of the propellant. I mention my experience with partial clearing of propellant, above...
I've never done that. By using the above straw technique, you control how much and when the spray enters the catch jar. Outdoors, in a well ventilated location, you might not even notice the ether smell. Chilling the propellant before spraying into the catch jar night just delay full venting off of the propellant. I mention my experience with partial clearing of propellant, above...
06-11-2015 | 11:03 PM
#29
Fiery,
I had a few expanded comments that went 'away.' Another of my regular sites is reporting 'query error.' hope I can post to both, again, soon...
Disregard - they apparently posted...
***?
I had a few expanded comments that went 'away.' Another of my regular sites is reporting 'query error.' hope I can post to both, again, soon...
Disregard - they apparently posted...
***?
06-12-2015 | 02:08 PM
#30
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Lou,
Good info, thanks.
I've never tried to puncture the JD cans to capture the last dregs, but may try that.
What I do is hold the JD cans upright, with the straw inserted into the beauty supply bottle conical caps. I spray, while rolling the can around to pick up all the liquid I can, and to exhaust all the propellant.
Those beauty supply graduated bottles are perfect for the short time I use them, and the contents are then transfered to one of my metal Ether storage cans with Teflon tape sealed lids.
BTW, the last JD cans I purchased no longer had a place to install the straw, so I saved all the nozzles from older cans that do accept straws.
Bill
Good info, thanks.
I've never tried to puncture the JD cans to capture the last dregs, but may try that.
What I do is hold the JD cans upright, with the straw inserted into the beauty supply bottle conical caps. I spray, while rolling the can around to pick up all the liquid I can, and to exhaust all the propellant.
Those beauty supply graduated bottles are perfect for the short time I use them, and the contents are then transfered to one of my metal Ether storage cans with Teflon tape sealed lids.
BTW, the last JD cans I purchased no longer had a place to install the straw, so I saved all the nozzles from older cans that do accept straws.
Bill
06-12-2015 | 08:03 PM
#31
What I did was put the can or cans in the freezer for a few hours to chill them down good. Then quick check the spray nozzle to make sure it is dead or really weak. Then flip the can upside down, and poke a small hole in it. That lets any weak pressure out. Next open the hole up larger and pour the contents out into the container I want it in. Using a triangular can opener works. But one could use a sharp nail and open the hole up as needed for pouring. You don't want to seal up the container tight right away as when the stuff warms up a little the volatiles like propane will tend to come out. So you need to watch out for it.
