8178

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks for the comments raindav! I started building my ailerons as part of the airfoil many years ago; because that’s how the Howard Engineering kits were built and I liked the way it looked. I expect it helps the aileron control function a little as well.

The 700 sq in Blue Angel wing without retracts, servos or wing tip blocks is about 21 oz. Although I selected the lightest wood available I think it will come out a little heaver for its size than my usual wings. The Spring Air retracts are 8 oz and have the heavy brass adapter fitting for the strut. The wing should have a total weight without covering of about 33 oz.

Here are some wing weights and total weights of my other aircraft for reference.

Tiporare, 720 sq in, two digital servos, Spring Air retracts, painted center section and MonoKote, 35.5 oz. Total weight 7.78 lbs and is beyond ballistic.

Howard Engineering Kwik Fli III, 640 sq in, one servo, Rom Air retracts, painted center section and MonoKote 35 oz. Total weight 7.42 lbs and is ballistic.

Cold Duck, 650 sq in, one servo, fixed gear, painted center section and MonoKote 29.75 oz. Total weight 5.46 lbs and is ballistic but is almost too light in windy conditions.

Lanier Jester, 630 sq in, one servo, fixed gear, all plastic covering, 37.25 oz. Total weight of 7.37 lbs and flies fine.

The Tiporare wing for its size is one of the lightest I’ve built. If the Blue Angel comes in under 8 lbs I’ll be happy.

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks 8178. It looks like my UFO wing is ok as it is just under 2lbs at 31.25oz. That includes the retracts, the two servos and ailerons - uncovered, of course. The area is 692; very close to your BA. It's reassuring to see that my weights are in line with yours. Thanks.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

View of the right and left wing panels with the aileron stock on both wings sanded to shape. The trailing edge strip is 3/32” square bass wood. Due to the airfoil shape of the wing, the sanding of the aileron surface works the back edge of the bass wood down to less than 1/16” making a nice sharp edge. When the sanding is done the surface of the bass wood has a seamless flow into the balsa aileron.

I’m having so much fun building the Blue Angel I feel like I do not want the process to end!

To be continued…

8178

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View of the wing tip block and templates ready to be cut.

To be continued…

8178

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Test fitting the rough cut wing tip blocks. The block was a tad narrow but that is not a problem because as per the plan the very back and outside tip will have a piece of 1/16” plywood glued into a slot to forum a sharp tailing edge for the tip. Note how Kato designed the ailerons with an angle cut and extending into the tip block area. Kato must have stayed up late figuring out all this fine detail stuff.

To be continued…

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

8178, the Blue Angel has a lot of cool and subtle design elements, doesn't it? The angled aileron tip that extends into the tip block is really interesting. I remember the fin construction being ingenious, too. You have to admire the esthétique japonais.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

I certainly does! Kato must love to build and focus on the details. But they are cool details and he is/was a great RC flyer.

choppercopper

My Feedback: (1)

A great Build thread. Beautiful 70's pattern ship. Had a .40 size one when I was a kid. Emailed Singapore hobbies and they informed me that they no longer have the kit (60 or 40 size) (Even though they advertise that they do!) Can anyone tell me where I can now get a copy of the plans for this beautiful bird.

Cheers

Roger

Melbourne Australia.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks roger! The plans, foam wing and canopy are available from Dan at Carolina Custom Aircraft [email protected]

8178

My Feedback: (17)

The wing tips were rough cut and a slot cut for a 1/16 piece of plywood at the trailing edge. The inside of the tips were marked and hollowed out with my router tool. I then glued on the wing tips, taped them with masking tape and let the glue setup. After the glue was set I sanded the tip smooth with the wing skin and sanded a little on the top plan view. View of the rough cut tip is on the left and the sanded one on the right. After both tips are sanded I’ll compare the top plan view before starting the rounding process. When the finish sanding is done the sharp edge of the plywood will flow into the rounded tip.

To be continued…

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Now that the wing tip blocks are on I did some weight checking with the following results:

1. The wing with retracts and no servos is 30.75 oz.

2. The fuselage with the tail assembly, nose gear, fuel tank, canopy and spinner is 25.5 oz.

3. The radio gear (six servos), engine, engine mount, prop, pipe header and pipe is 48 oz.

The total weight is 104.25 oz or 6 lb 8.25 oz.

Glassing and painting the fuse will add a little weight and glassing the center section and MonoKote on the wing will add a little weight. I still have push rods and servo mounting and linkage weight to add but it is going to come out lighter than my Tiporare and maybe my Kwik Fli III.

To be continued…

8178

My Feedback: (17)

I finished the rough shaping and sanding of the leading edge and wing tips. I discovered that because of the grain direction of the angle cut in the wing tip that I had to add a small piece of balsa to the inside of the wing tip keep a straight line for the aileron cut out.

To be continued…

8178

My Feedback: (17)

The 1/16” plywood wing tip edge was a little tricky to install but it turned out really well and allows for a nice sharp strong edge.

To be continued…

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Because the aileron has a constant cord for its full length and the wing has a double taper plus sweep back there is a very slight angle change in the top and bottom of airfoil at the wing tip where the aileron connects to the tailing edge of the wing. I’ve checked and re-checked the plans and wing template and everything is the size shown on the plan and the kit wing tip tracing. The trailing edge of the wing tip template would need to be about 1/32” thicker on the top and bottom to make the airfoil not have an angle change. I can’t tell from the Blue Angel kit pictures for sure but from the change of angle of the red wing stripes it looks like it might have the angle change at the tip. It is equal on both sides of the airfoil and wings so it is not a problem.

To be continued…

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Started work on the wing fitment to the fuselage by making the angle cut opening in the fuselage for the trailing edge of the wing.

It is great to have the wing completed enough to be able to see the wing platform and fuselage together.

To be continued…

pimmnz

Oh, yes, now I remember, I had much the same thing with my wing tips. I made the built up version and added a smidgen of washout, 1/8" as I recollect. Makes the stall real slow and straight, but at a flying weight of 6.75 lb it should be...
Evan.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks for the input Evan. Sounds like yours is the same way. Instead of the airfoil having a constant taper to the aileron tailing edge the line goes slightly negative around the aileron attachment point. This gives both wing tips a very slight teardrop shape (or reflex) that is equal top and bottom. Kato apparently intended to have the wing tips shaped that way because if you follow the plan there is no way to avoid it. This condition is most pronounced at the wing tip and does not exist at the root. I’ve used washout on other aircraft but not on any of my pattern aircraft. Interesting idea.

8178

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After the wing tip sanding was completed I marked the aileron cut at the wing root. The cuts run parallel with the aircraft center line. I removed the ailerons that were held with rubber glue and made the cuts. View of the root parts that will be glued to the wing trailing edge before the wing panels are joined.

To be continued…

8178

My Feedback: (17)

View of the completed wing tip showing the piece added on the tip block to keep a true edge along the aileron gap. The piece was needed because I was having a hard time keeping a good edge with the cross grain cut in the tip block. Also an updated overall view.

To be continued…

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Worked on the ailerons today to shape the leading edge and test install the Du-Bro hinges. I did my usual countersinking of the hinges to create a zero gap at the hinge line. I don’t like the way sealed hinge lines look with extra MonoKote or clear tape so I make them fit tight without an air gap. I also completed gluing the cut off part of the aileron root to the wing and sanded it smooth.

To be continued…

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Well, that's easy for you to do! That aileron looks like the same piece of wood as the wing with a small groove cut in it. The grain even matches! What will be the next phase? Will you start working on the pushrods/servos next?

8178

My Feedback: (17)

It really isn’t that hard to do rainedav! I’m sure that many on the forum will argue that hinge lines must be sealed with tape or MonoKote but I’ve found that will a little extra work with the zero gap control surface fitment that it is not necessary to fiddle around with a tape or MonoKote sealing process. The control surface is sealed by the zero gap tight fit. In order to use the tape or MonoKote seal, the aileron must be beveled back much further than I like. I don’t like the look of the big gap or the look of the tape or MonoKote in the joint.

On super fast aircraft like the majority of the classics the control surface throws are very small so you do not need to hack a lot away from the control surfaces. I covered how to do the zero gap surfaces in my Howard Engineering Kwik Fly III build at http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2434444/tm.htm on page 2 and 7.

I’m not sure if I’ve explained my reasoning with the appropriate finesse but It’s my story and I’m sticking with it!

I’ll be finishing the tail assembly hinging next and then the push rods.

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks 8178. Speaking of throws... where do you start with fast planes like the BA, Tipo, or UFO? I was thinking along the lines of 10° for ailerons, 15° or so for elevator and around 30° or more for rudder. Since these planes all share similar flying characteristics I assume there's a good, proven starting point for initial flights.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

rainedav.

The recommended Tiporare high rate throws are 3/8” total aileron, elevator total ¾” and rudder total 3”. The recommended Blue Angel throws are 9mm up and 7 mm down aileron, 20mm up and 15mm down elevator and 35mm ruder right and left. I’ll use the recommended Blue Angel settings for my high rate because its flight speed will be way faster than the original.

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Thank you so much 8178. That info was a great help. By measuring the width of my UFO control surfaces and using a protractor in relation to your numbers I was able to work out throws for my plane.