w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Universal Ignition module [*]Weight: 1/2 ounce[*]Packaging: 1 per box[*]Patent No. 5,058,543[*]Easy to install[*]Includes installation instructions[*]For brush cutters, chain saws, garden tractors, lawnmowers and trimmers[*]Has a compact design allowing it to fit where other modules cannot[*]Will fire at low RPM's for quick and easy starting[*]Offers increased heat tolerance[*]Has a heat resistant design that doesn't allow the engine timing to drift, which can cause poor engine performance[*]Withstands extreme temperature variations[*]Replaces points and condenser[*]Universal application[*]Durable aluminum casing[*]Can be used in most electronic ignition applications where the trigger is separate from the coil[/list]

captinjohn

A person bought one of the points eliminator and installed it on his engine. It seemed to work pretty good. I will ask him more about it. Capt,n

skip1320

Does that come w/Futaba J or universal connector? it sure beats knockin a flywheel off an replacing points when you can just cut one wire and a s/tapper screw and be done,yes they do work good!

91zulu

My Feedback: (2)

OK thanks, for the info guys. The diagram seem to say one wire goes to the coil and cut off switch and the other to ground through the hole in the module. Not quite getting that diagram. That module is different to the one I have. The one that I have I saw selling has 3 wires. I was doing some research now that I know what it is called, seem it is used when the coil or points is going bad. Some folks were using it instead of buying a replacement coil on snow blowers. If anyone know how it is connected for our use please explain. To me I would think the + connection goes to coil , _ to cut off switch then to ground.
Thanks.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

+ goes to the coil and to the N.O.cut off SW

- goes to ground

It probably came from Dick Bennett at B&B? Give him a call and ask? He still sells them.

91zulu

My Feedback: (2)

OK thanks.

91zulu

My Feedback: (2)

It works, thanks guys. Now when I was trying to start my engine a thought cross my mind. At first I couldn`t get the engine started so I was checking to see if I was getting a spark at the plug. I didn`t see any so I exchanged plugs with another engine my buddy had. The plugs had the same threads but the plug on my Sachs 3.2 was bigger. The white porcelain part was fatter and longer. I can`t remember the plug numbers. I got the engine running and saw no difference in performance with either plug. Now maybe it would have showed up in the air but none on the ground. Now how do one know if they are using the right plug in an engine especially if gotten used and there is no manual. I know for glo engines there are cold, medium and hot plugs used for different applications. Cold for hi-nitro, hi-revving engines, hot could be used in the winter time to aide in easier starting and so on. How do one know the the right spark plug is in a gas engine. Now folks this don`t apply to the popular name brand engines with manufacture web sites with all engine info available, just the off brands and brands that are long gone. I think this bit of information I need to know, to be sure my engine is operating at optimum.

harryg69

Been out of town.....

Thanks for all the engine suggestions,
Harry

Woody218

My Feedback: (24)

The insulator nose length is a determining factor in the heat range of a spark plug, the longer the insulator nose, the less heat is absorbed, and the further the heat must travel into the cylinder head. This means that the plug has a higher internal temperature, and is said to be a "Hot" plug. A hot spark plug maintains a higher internal operating temperature to burn off oil and carbon deposits, and has no relationship to spark quality or intensity. Conversely, a "Cold" spark plug has a shorter insulator nose and absorbs more combustion chamber heat. This heat travels a shorter distance, and allows the plug to operate at a lower internal temperature.

dhillfolk

My Feedback: (195)

91zulu

My Feedback: (2)

I have notice a couple places that use to carry Dle 30 engines and some RCGF 30s no longer doing so. I also see the engine list at HK has gotten smaller, also at Hi Model. Now Rc-Fans has changed their name and no longer showing prices. What in the world is going on. I smell a RAT>..

Whistling Death

Who are these places that have stopped selling DLE and RCGF?
I've never heard of Hi-Model and RC-Fans.
Maybe we need to start a list of Hong Kong suppliers to go along with the list of Chinese engines.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

http://www.rc-fans.com/

http://www.himodel.com/

dhillfolk

My Feedback: (195)

Possibly the market has been saturated to the point of minimal sales for some distributors ?

91zulu

My Feedback: (2)

No when I went to the WRAM show word was that some US distributors of these engines are complaining about China competition online so now some of these places no longer can get these engines because a few here that want to sell them at 100% profit. Even some of the vendors at the show said they couldn`t get get them. Some use to carry like the 30s and 32s DLE and RCGF, someone here is blocking them from getting them from the manufacturer. I was trying to get a DLE 30 for my Stuka but not at $300 and change when I now its at least $100 less online. Even with shipping. Trouble is most places that had it at around $200 don`t have any in stock and word is will not get any more. I got a MLD 35 instead, happy with it so far. Its a beast.

dhillfolk

My Feedback: (195)

Realizing some off shore providers don't care who they sell a batch of anything to wholesale only increases the amount of entrepreneurs looking to sell for what they can. It's obvious just from adds here in RCU everybody & thier brother is selling these motors. It would be interesting to know who or what is trying to control the sources if that is the case.

Here is a site I ordered my SV 26cc on & noticed today the 26cc CCRC motor shown comes w/ beam mounts ! It's about time the ridiculous four post standoff design took a hike . I think they're getting the picture. Also there doesn't seem to be any blockage here selling to an individual here in the US ?
Also there is a 40cc CCRC w/ beam mounts .
http://www.aliexpress.com/product-gs...olesalers.html

hsukaria

That is an excellent price for the CCRC 26cc @ $180, with beam mounts.

I have a general question that may not belong in this thread. But here goes: Can the cylinder be rotated to make the engine a rear exhaust without giving performance?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

NO

The pins for the rings on the piston will be in the wrong place and the ring gaps will catch in the ports

hsukaria

So I guess that's a noper. Just a thought, good to know.

So does anybody have any idea how the new CRRC 26cc performs compared to the DLE20? Maybe too early to ask.

captinjohn

You may be able to use one ring (a custom Frank Bowman ring) and move the pin 180 degrees so the ring wil not catch. The bypass ports need to ine up right also. It canbe done on some engines.

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

The beam mounted CRRC GF26I V-2 is not new, it's been out for almost 2 years, the rear carbed version, GP26R has been out for about 1 year. Do a search, there are threads on this site about all 3 versions of the engine, the DLE20beats them all hands down.

aussiesteve

Beam mounts vs. Standoffs
Neither is really better than the other. Beam mounts usually need a separate additional mount to be added to the firewall. Standoffs mount directly to the firewall. Overall weights for beam mounts usually end up being only very slightly heavier than a rear standoff mount. As long as the rear mount system is properly designed and sized, it really makes very little difference which mounting system is used.

Cheap sources of engines.
The Chinese export economy has thrived to date on selling at low cost. In fact they have been so very successful at doing that that they now have rampant true inflation whilst controlling a large chunk of cash from other countries. Why is that? - Because we let them by buying on cost (Think nearly every purchase you make these days - they come from chain suppliers - heck, Even RCU is now owned by the owners of a bunch of other forums).

DLE became popular and the value of the product increased because they started out cheap with a few problems, addressed those problems and became a low cost and reasonable product. The original DL50. Version 1 had a number of issues such as thin mounting lugs, prop shaft issues etc - look at what a gem they have evolved into now yet they got their start in life because they were a low cost "ready to enjoy alternative to the other offerings at the time. They were supported by a distributor who genuinely cared about the product and worked hard with the factory to feed back the improvements required and those improvements got done. I understand that distributor is no longer around in their original form due to the market being flooded with the low cost alternative sources of the product once the engine became popular.

If a brand chooses to raise their prices and limit their distributorship once they become sought after, sure they will lose some sales but their overall profit will probably stay the same with a lot less headaches associated with high sales rates. This opens the door for some of the other up and coming manufacturers to improve and get to the same standard (Hasn't happened with any others yet - but you can live in vain hope that it may one day).

There will always be a low cost alternative to bolt onto the front of our planes, some will be acceptable, some will need "assistance". Just because one brand decides to raise their pricing because they now have the reputation doesn't mean the end of the world - just move on to the next "low purchase price" brand and assist them to increase their game to match that of DLE. If the "next best manufacturer" manages to get their product up to spec (hasn't happened yet) then there will be some competition out there that will drive prices down again.


Market Saturation
I often have a laugh at the engine companies that send me e-mails offering to let me be their "distributor" then within a month they send other e-mails to my other address offering to sell direct to me as an end user at about $20 - $50 more per engine that the "distributor" price. A typical 50 - 60cc engine at "distributor" price is between $160 and $200 (plus shipping).

The difference in the factory offered "Distributor price" and "End user price" at $50 mark-up on a $200 purchase price may sound like a good margin to some but consider these costs that need to be taken out of that margin.

"Free shipping"
This does not really exist. Somewhere in the chain the transport companies get paid to ship from China to the end user - either by a drop shipping arrangement (at about $20 per engine through the likes of EMS) or in two or 3 steps from the factory to the distributor then to the end user with possibly a retailer in between. Someone somewhere pays for this.

Support costs - these are a real cost as they do take up a staff members time.
Because the target audience for the low purchase price engines are often less experienced, there will be a significant amount of support time required (this is not guesswork, it is based on experience). Some brands require more support than others and the irony is that as the brand becomes more popular and the value of the brand increases, there is more general support available and less support required from the distributors.


Warranty issues
These are rarely covered by the factory and the associated labor costs are pretty much never covered. Again, as the brand improves the warranty issues become less and the brand value increases.

Stock holding costs
Distributors typically have a MOQ of between 8 engines per model or 50 engines in total depending on the supplier’s dreams. That costs money to keep on the shelf. Again the irony is that as the brand becomes more popular, the stock turns over faster and the cost of stockholding reduces.

Promotion costs
These are also rarely covered by the factory. Again, as the popularity increases and the quality is proven, the promotion costs reduce per unit. These costs include advertisements, special deals, "freebies" etc.

Unfortunately for the distributors of the "unproven brands", the Chinese business "ethic" will bite them. As soon as the brand becomes popular after all those costs plus more are worn by the original importer of the brand, the next move by the factory is usually to appoint more distributors and allow a price war to commence. The "manufacturer" wins out because they sell a lot of "MOQ" orders in a short time at the same prices as they always sold at.

I've said it many times over - if low purchase price is the target, buy from the lowest cost source of acceptable power, ignore the brand name as there are in fact very few actual manufacturers and expect to do your own product support with the factory / overseas seller. If local product support is wanted, expect the local supplier to want to be able to feed his family at the end of the week and allow him to at least make a wage. If top quality in all areas is wanted (such as a proper proven power curve, proper manufacturing and assembly techniques and tolerances and a manufacturer that has a quality sales support team), then chances are that the product isn't coming from China nor is it going to be low purchase prices to the end user.


And to answer a question I often get asked
IF I was to buy any Chinese engine (which I do not plan to do any time soon). There is only one brand I would purchase. DLE from the local supplier.

Why? - they are the only one to have shown they genuinely understand the needs of the end user adn the needs of their genuine distributor. Sure they may have wavered in earlier days but they fixed the issues instead of just trying to sell more.

dhillfolk

My Feedback: (195)

[quote]ORIGINAL: aussiesteve


Beam mounts vs. Standoffs
Neither is really better than the other. Beam mounts usually need a separate additional mount to be added to the firewall. Standoffs mount directly to the firewall. Overall weights for beam mounts usually end up being only very slightly heavier than a rear standoff mount. As long as the rear mount system is properly designed and sized, it really makes very little difference which mounting system is used.


Certainly some creative mech engineering background in this reply

hsukaria

[quote]ORIGINAL: dhillfolk


Well, mechanical engineering is considered a creative discipline anyway.

aussiesteve

Ya think?

Seeing as my BSc is in Mech Eng, My Meng is Mech and my PhD is Mech Eng - yep, you could say I have some Mechanical Engineeering Background !!!

In fact, IF you look closely at the true physics of the two mounting systems, a Rear Standoff mount is actually a more stable crankcase design than a Beam mount.

Can you tell me why I say that?

Ok, the answer is simple - consider the Thermal Reaction of each element.

Fact is - for the purposes of most (which is to go and play and have fun, it is a hobby after all), there is very little practical difference between the two installations.

Again - the statement - "Properly designed and sized" !!!!!



Of course if you are comparing the cheap with the cheap, then it really makes very little differnce in the end does it now