I have read the articles by Jodi and Tired old man. I need some clarification on the power setting while leaning the lowend. TOM article states to set the power around 2500 rpm then lean it for peak while leaving the throttle at the original setting.

Jodi article is similar however he says to keep reducing the throttle to keep the original rpm while leaning the low end.

My articles may be old but it appears they have a different method. So which is best?

Set idle to about 1800, lean the low..RPM will increase..Reset speed to 1800, repeat until this procedure no longer results in rpm increase..At this point try transition, it will probably die..open low until it doesn't die on transition...fine tune from there...Re check high, a rich low will give a false reading on high....

T.O.M. doesn't know what he's doing, Ralph has it right and that's pretty much what I do..

It really doesn't matter either way. If the engine idles and transitions, lean the low needle until it won't transition, it just dies, then richen the low needle just until it will transition quickly and smoothly. Set your idle speed with the transmiter and toss the idle speed screw.

Go outside and play!

Also, be sure it's well warmed up before doing your tuning.

My way just assures that a low needle only needs to be turned one way after hitting the peak. It WILL have to be richened for good transition. The nice part about my way is you only set the throttle stick once and then are assured you have to richen up. Either way you'll end up cycling the throttle stick from low to high after the initial peaking to obtain the best transition.

Jody doesn't know what he's doing either but if you prefer that method don't be scared

Listen to what a1pcfixer said. It matters, a lot.

How come no one says "clash of the titans" when you guys APPARENTLY disagree ??
MY smileys work [sm=punching.gif]

Hi Titan's

What is your opinion on this method that i have seen posted around on a few places

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Set the lowend & highend needles to about 1 3/4 to 2 turns each. Choke the carb or prime it, until the carb is wet. Fire up the engine and let it warm up. Let's set the topend first since it's the easier of the two. Go to full throttle. Adjust the topend needle for peak RPM. Leave it wide open for about a minute to see if it changes any. Should the engine go lean, open the lowend needle slightly, if this dosen't work... you will have to adjust the needle valve inside the carb.( I will explain this later) If the topend runs OK, then slowly pull the throttle down until the engine begins to "four cycle" hold the throttle there. Adjust the lowend needle until the "four cycling" barely stops. Now lower the throttle more until it "four cycles" again, and adjust the lowend again. Keep doing this until you reach full idle. Now, from full idle begin to throttle up until the engine starts to bog or hesitate. Open up the lowend needle just enough to eliminate the bog or hesitation.

When this is done right, you will be able to set the throttle in any position and it won't four cycle, plus you will be able to transition from idle to full power without any hesitation at all. Now, for easy starting it's best to have the lowend a little rich and it will four-stroke a little.

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You don't need to adjust the lever, Walbro engineers are pretty good at what they do...
Like I said before, all ways lead to the same setting...
Hey Pat, do we let Jody be a "titan" ??[>:]

Make sure IT'S well warmed up beforehand?
Is that a generic statement? What about the engine?

Ralph, maybe it's the squabbles of the midgets!

I'm not old enough to be a Titan, I'm just one step above a peeon.

Never fear, neither is Pat...You guys are just kids...Me, Ed Cregger, Bill, and a few others are the OLD guys...I guess Bill O can also be a titan...
Hey. Milton is not far behind....

Thanks for all the replies. I will try it tomorrow. I have a DLE20 which is running good except for a slightly rich midrange.

Thought we did a long time ago but it's more appropriate now than it's ever been[8D] That includes his peeon position. Highs and lows....

Toss it for numerou reasons, starting with the initial needle positions. What does "carb is wet" maen? Did someone pour gas or water on it? How wet is "wet"? Adjusting the level presumes you know what the level should be and how to make changes correctly. You and most others don't, and won't. Also makes the assumption that all engines will react the same to the same inputs. They won't, and don't. Too many definitions of "four cycle" so the term will confuse half the people using the method. Just what does "barely stops" mean? Some engines will never be rid of a "four cycle" in certain RPM areas. The cheaper they get the more often that happens. Some expensive ones can go the same way.

Anything you can call a "she" is appropriate for that activity. Best to keep them mechanical and/or within the same species.

You still got 2 hands right?[sm=72_72.gif]