I flew a Dle20 on a Phoenix Extra 330s 64" for a few months this season. I was never comfortable with the way, adding a click of throttle would result in it picking up a lot of speed in the approach. I would typically bounce my landing due to too much or too little airspeed. My 9c didnt have a proper ignition curve, just expos and I wasnt getting it setup right. I tried a 8FG and had problems with the TX interface and dropped the idea to fly the engine till I got my 12FG

For the last month I have had a slipdisc problem and havent gone to the field. Returning to the airplane yesterday to replace the DLE with a 75ax (decided to use the airplane as a test stand for the old 75ax which I had retired a couple of years ago as it gave me a lot of problems but which I recently opened and found to be in quite good condition). I took the module off and found that it was a #4 ignition module. I had the #4 sticker on the inside earlier, so I didnt know I had this specific module.

Arent sudden spurts of power an issue with this particular ignition module. If so, should I get a replacement ignition module from Hi-models and what text should I look for (they have quite a few ignition modules)? Can someone point me to the link of the module I should purchase from hi-models.com?

Ameyam

You want a RCEXL single cylinder replacement iginition module for a CM-6 spark plug

This one?

http://www.himodel.com/engines/RCEXL...ol_Engine.html

Ameyam

Yes, that's the one, just make sure to specify the plug size when ordering.

Karol

Just use the old timing sensor.

But in case you do move the original sensor or replace it, the factory position is centered over the casting seam.

Do you get the pick-up sensor with the $39 unit???? A lt of places do not include the pick-up sensor. I do not know why the H**L not. The sensor does not cost but very little to produce???????????? Darn Hobby places anyway....out for every last penny. Capt,n

The "pick up" is in the picture of the link

thats the best price i seen on a rcexl ign.

So, where are you shopping?

Will retain the old sensor ofcourse. Just wanted to know that is the one. They have a huge number of modules on that site. It will take a week to come in and I am in abso;utely no hurry as the engine doesng get reused till october (or till I fly my Reactor Bipe and feel it needs the DLE)

Thanks for the advice

Ameyam

same here... but its shipping direct from china

Milton and wrongwayrc are the only two places ive ordered igns from.....fair pricing

We cannot use a photo of a pick sensor. Are you sure in all orders you for sure get a sensor???? That is on Rcexl units ..... Capt,n

Shopping on-line for best price........

Ralph, (Antique) also offers a very good deal on RC exl ignitions.

Karol

Hey, if it's not damaged, I'll take that junk #4 off your hands, with or without the pickup! I could use an extra one.

I know....I just got a older type of ignition from him for a Model Hit & Miss engine. He hassold ignitions for many-many years. I got some of the original instructions that he provided with each ignition. Very well done so a person can understand how to set them up right. Ralph is also good at machine work and can even straiten a bent crank. In short, Ralph (Antique) isone of the most all around man on RC engines.

Capt,n

What is the advantage of the RCEXL over the #4 that came with my engine? And should it be replaced before I fly my plane? The engine runs good on the test stand. I have a RCEXL that I used on a Zenoah 20 so it not a problem to change it if required.

the timing curve is different on the #4 rcexl unit that comes with the 20. that makes the idle a little shakey,guy's have been replacing them with a #1 unit that comes on most single cylinder set ups.

Go fly it! Too many guys (mostly newbies trying to do it right the first time) are replacing these because "experts" are saying the modules need to be replaced. They don't. Most guys that are flying the DLE 20 and 30, are flying the stock #3 and #4 ignitions without any trouble.

Anybody know the differences in the curves (1, 2, 3, 4)? Just curious.

I know that the #4 has no curve at all. It switches from no advance to full advance around 2200 rpm.

the engine is very flyable just the way it comes from factory.most guy's that are flying them from factory just have a higher idle.

More of a "step" than a "curve" as I understand it. The DLE 30 uses a #3 module, has a similar single step. Those are the only ones that have that that I've read about.

Either can/will cause a little trouble when first tuning, but if the throttle linkage is set up properly, it's not bad to deal with at all. Both engines run best/most reliably kind of fat on the idle. NOT a big deal.....

My fault with the #4 is that it has too much advance change. You have to make the full advance up around 34 degrees so that the "no advance" portion will still be before TDC and not after TDC. On the DLE 20 this is easily done by just centering the sensor on the casting seam of the crankcase.