^^  Correct !   Needle bearing on the con rod. What i meant to say.

I believe the majority of people that have bought this engine so far have a positive experience with it outside of some issues with the muffler not sealing well. Personally my thoughts on that are that not one of my 2 stroke engines in the last 25 years had a muffler that sealed well so thats "par for the course" with me and doesn't really bother me that much. Others may have a bigger issue with that and that is fine, different people have different expectations. The only mufflers I've ever had seal well were the 4 strokes that had to be screwed on. Regardless I don't think the muffler is a deal breaker for most on these threads as the engine runs well and costs under $200 bucks.

Several fixes for the muffler have been posted that seem to have positive results as well.

The biggest challenge I think here is people learning about gas engines and how to set them up properly.


+1 in the end that probably matters more than anything else. From my own experience all it took was a quick email with a picture of the broken part included and I had my new ignition sensor shipped to me in 2 days, I'm currently very high on Horizon's support and standing behind their products. I hope that continues. Continued parts availability will be a major factor ...

<ul>[*]I had a lot of problems with the muffler and they are small if compared with the quality of the engine. I recommend this engine to everyone![/list]The engine is amazing, works fine, easy to tune and have a pretty good power and torque for its size. I'm pretty happy with it and the Horizon technical support is perfect so far.

My next engine will be an Evolution GX series for sure!

Pete from Horizon posted regarding my issue and said the rear cover can be removed without voiding the warranty. I'm going to remove it and take a peek inside . If it's the crank pin any damage/wear should be visible .

Take a picture and post it for us to see, if you can.

Hello Pete, Any updates on the backorder status of the 10cc? Thanks!

We are doing our inspection in the warehouse this morning (Thursday) and expect to start shipping the BO's by tomorrow at the latest.

Pete

I removed the backplate and it was clean inside. I couldn't tell if the crankpin is worn but it looks to be a bit irregular. I can see some slop between the pin and the needle bearing but I can also see a little slop between the wristpin/bushing too. The clicking at idle must be the movement (slop)of the connecting rod when under pressure. I can see and feel it move.
I also noticed what seems like excessive slop in the prop driver and the crank. Didn't look like any excessive wear on the crank, driver or key but there's about 2-3mm of slop back and forth . Just seems like there shouldn't be that much.
Here's some pics and there's really not much to see. Will require a tear-down to find out if anything is worn. Looks like I'll put the backplate on and send it in .

Brian,

You can't really see anything without removing the conrod. If this engine was mine, I would take a look there before sending it in.

I agree however Pete at Horizon said anything beyond removing the backplate would violate the warranty ....so.......I'll just send it in.

That could be the cause and more especially if the prop was ever loose for very long as that would allow the key slot to increase size from normal clearance.

What are the thoughts of the Evo 10cc nation of putting one of these engines on a Sig Kadet Sr.?

More than enough power.

should fly well.... if anything it may be a little on the hot side for the Sr. I flew a Kadet for many years on a K&amp;B .35 and it was a great plane to learn on.

You will be able to fly it at half throttle with more than enough power and stay up for 35 min on 8 ounces !

I only had one backfire where the prop cam loose but it never started. All other run times the prop was tight.

That would be great I think.

Ken

have any of you experienced a cut out on the engine on a long downrun...its not a lean type cut out..i have tried changing fuel setting and thats not it..seems like its catching  an air pocket or something..

I had two issues. First one was some dead sticks or stumbling on the maiden flights after rolling, loops, knife-edges, and long quick down runs .
The cause was the supplied plastic fuel clunk and neoprene line in the tank on the carb line. The line was too stiff and the filter clunk too light and didn't allow it to sink and move back&amp;forth I changed that out to a brass sintered clunk and Tygon line and problem solved.
The other issue was keeping the tune once tuned. I would get good runs but lag out on climbs or it would start 4-stroking, or run lean on dives. Retune the HS needle and it would be corrected for awhile but then go back to the issue. I applied some shrink tubing around the gap where the needle meets the body and problem solved(similar to the ol' glow needle fix). Either the needle was moving slightly(side-side) and/or a small air leak. After that it held the tune and ran great.

thanks,

i have the fuel line over the high side needle..it works really well..i'm using a clear line i had laying around and it works good....other than that i'm good..the engine pulls itself really well for me..i had dead stick issues early flights also on rolls and flips..come to find out,the tank wasn't sealing good then...thanks for the reply...

Also make sure the muffler is tight. If you didn't already , take it apart, clean the pieces and put it back together using the factory gaskets with some high temp sealant even on the long bolt ends and between the muffler extension. I did that and so far(knock on wood) it has held solid. Others have not been so lucky.

OR just buy a Macs 6720 or weld the muffler pieces <div></div><div></div>

i had copper silicone on the section from engine to muffler this weekend and it didn't leak a drop..i had a different sealer on the muffler itself and it leaked a little..gonna pull it apart and use the copper silicone and let it dry all week..i think it will work cause when i pulled muffler off the engine,the silicone never did break loose like the other did..had to pull it off the engine..

Ditto on the copper selent works great on mine. Yeaaa

Evgeny,

I think you need to calibrate your rpm data. There is no way the 10cc engine can turn a 13-6 at those rpms.

Pete<br type="_moz" />