Just throwing this out there. I know what the DLE manual says about oil ratio. 32:1 for break in. I will tell all of you that I have DLE35RA and never ran 32:1. I run 40:1 in all my engines, everyone of them except a Saito FG20. I have not had any of the issues that you guys are talking about. I have a 30, 2 55's, 35RA 2 20's, DL50 and 2 DA50's. Every one of them run on Pennzoil for air cooled engines, break in to run in. That being said you may want to change the ratio and take a chance. After all DLE does not have a warranty to mention. Go ahead and try to send one back. I dear you! LOL. DLE's are sorta like a throw away engine unless your a good mechanic or tinkerer. 40:1 is not going to hurt it and I have had nothing but good luck with it.

Good luck on getting yours running right.

Me too except 50:1 in my case. No Penzoil tho....bel ray mc 1

I don't agree that DLEs are throw aways. I find mine to be easy to run and strong enough. And just like my other gassies no maintenance

Love my DLE's and if you buy from a reputable dealer I have no problem getting service. I just received a new ignition for my 2 yr old 20 no questions asked when it went bad. I won't mention the dealer because that would only start a bashing session. Tuning these things sometimes requires less than a 1/16 of a turn to make it right so go easy.

I too will run 50:1 amsoil after the first couple gallons. This was my procedure for the 55 and that one starts first flip after the pop.

What is the purpose in running a leaner oil ratio in these engines?

+1

Dont use the stock DLE CM 6 plug , use a NGK CM 6 , If engine wont idle down instantly , the engine may be overheating due to a prop thats to small . . A glow engine will do the same thing if over heated. I have been using DLE engines for about 3 years , mostly in warbirds . I usually run them at wide open throttle , no problems at all .... and I also read an article recently about counterfeit DLE engines on the market ,the article depicted several ways to tell the difference . dont remember where I saw it , may have been on the DLE official webb site.

Bob's Theory of Ignition "Design" - If problems arise from difficult to tune Tillotson knock-off carbs that the engine manufacturer INSISTS on using (DLE 20 as an example, maybe others), modify the advance curve in the processor so that the engine won't idle down faster than the carb can reduce the fuel.

Or, in other words, "Fix" bad carburetor and reed copy-choices by tweaking the ignition curve so the engine assembler doesn't go to a different ignition.

Just sayin'.....

Bob, thinking DLE learned their lesson on the early 20cc ign. module. The new 20cc module (8.4v max) doesn't use that wierdness, nor do any others, unless something has changed?

My new 20cc has the "v. 2" marked on it, suitable for > 6v, and it *does* exhibit that weirdness, and it *does* have their Tillotson knock-off-clone. Works, but ain't the greatest by a far stretch.

Just wondering if the same thing isn't happening to the OP's 35RA ?

If you have the later module, and an issue with the high idle hang, thinking you're on the right track with the root of your evil being the same as his, but it's nothing to do ith the ignition? It's about combustion chamber heat, or more accurately, how to get rid of it when you pull the throttle back to idle.....

Nope. Tested for heat by checking if it "hangs" immediately after start, before things can heat up, and yep, it does. It can be mitigated, but only by richening the low end so much that it has a completely-unreliable idle and horrible transition up.

Bob, PM sent. -Al

Tonight I found the issue. The butterfly screw was loose and causing it to change position at idle... I nearly ended up ruining my engine.. thank god the reed valves caught the butterfly and screw before the dle decided to eat them. When it stuck wide open I killed it. I don't know why I over looked this or how but the screw is now loctited.

THAT is awesome, and truly proves that sometimes things happen RIGHT!!!!!!! Good for you...it is amazing that that particular screw could work loose. I'm sure a host of us will be checking our imitation Walbros and Tillotsons to see if the copycats caught that little detail of swaging the screw after installing.
Great find, thanks for sharing with us!

Nice find Shane, hopefully before your ordered another carb.

An RC buddy of mine flies this engine and has many problems with it.
First, the chrome liner peeled off and he had to send it in for replacement - THIS was during break in on 30:1 Pennzoil 2 stroke oil.
The replacement engine runs very erratic. I have helped him with the engine and it is my opinion the design of the engine makes it run too hot.
The carburetor and muffler are too close and unless there is NO FIREWALL directly behind the muffler, the engine gets hot and vaporizes the fuel in the carburetor, leading to lean runs and erratic needle adjustments.
As I do not own the engine, and have only helped my friend with his, these are my second-hand observations.
Most of the DLEs I have seen running, run well. This one does not fall into that category.
Good luck.

yep before the new carb, luckily ! It runs great now, I didn't run it long after I fixed it...... I had gone so far as to changing throttle servos so I am now in the middle of putting everything back together.

Maybe someone has some experience in this? I stake the butterfly screws, like the factory. Will the loctite loosen with time and exposure to gasoline? If so you will be sorry that you did not stake it.

Could you explain how you stake the screws... I am unfamiliar with this.

Ams Oil,Yuck,Yuck.
BC

Well at least we made two full pages before someone had to say that.
You just couldn't resist could ya?
Shame.

BC is *completely* entitled to post his opinion, even though it is SO concisely. Never seen him discuss that oil flavor with only two words....well done, Bill !

Oil choices are personal ones, just like which engines to buy, and whose advise to listen to.
bcchi is one of those whose advise should be listened to attentively; he has forgotten more than many of us will ever learn in this hobby.

BTW - Pennzoil 2C Air Cooled is REALLY a great oil for our model airplane gassers....plus, the exhaust has a nice color and scent, and leaves little black dots of residue. Proof that the engine is getting lubricated. GREAT STUFF!!!!!!!!!!

I know who BC is. Advise is one thing and critisism is another.

Yeah please don't turn this into an oil thread. I run amsoil because its all I can get here other than regular stihl chainsaw oil.