OK, Besides the people who were fooled into thinking a 6.0 Cell pack would have enough power to run their ignition, who has had ignition trouble that was the fault of the ignition? I bought a new Evolution 58 and the ignition was bad out of the box. When I turned on the switch it would buzz and spark, but then when I tried to start it it failed to spark again. I replaced it with a friend's ignition and it started first flip. I contacted Horizon and they said they would replace it. I returned it to Horizon,postage paid, to be "Evaluated" and now they are out of stock until Mid December. These engines are Great, but I'm not sold on their ignitions. Incidentally, a friend and I both had to turn our high speed needles out almost a full turn to get the ignition to throttle up. Also just for curiosity who is running the auto choke feature?

Hi,
it is really strange you have problem with six cells for the ignition. It's true that ignition doesn't work if the voltage is lower than cca 6.4V when a battery is loaded. If I understant well, after power on ignition generated the sparks but than it don't produce a spark when you close a magnet to pick up (sensor). Please could you write me if LED blink ? If not, than it is problem with pick up, otherwise a battery has low voltage when it was loaded.

Well my engine wont start, and I don't know why. It is getting gas, and spark but will not run. I am running a 2 cell li-on straight in to it ant It load tests fine. It seems like when I flip the prop quickly I am not getting spark, But when I move the prop very slowly (with a firm grip) I can feel it fire. But I am unsure as to why it wont run

Hi,
please could you check this ? Unscrew pick up and put it to the oposite thread on a one screw.pick up will be offset. If ignition will produce a spark regularly in idle-thrust, than it is problem with pick up. Please, don't spin your engine to very high RPM. A preigniton curve will be moved !! Please, send me your result's . I think it will be necessary to send it back to the producer and we will send you new one.


/ ~~\
/ ~~~ \ / / <---- moved pick up.
/ \ /
| o o | o-/ o <--- threads on an engine.

original possition new possition for pick up.

Greyhoundman,
I would be willing to bet you have a bad iginition. My ignition would spark when I turned on the switch, but not fire again after that. Sometimes when I turned on the switch it would fire the engine once when it was flooded, but still not start. The bad news that Horizon is out of stock on ignitions until mid December. If you are unlucky enough to have an old style engine (type 1 ignition) you can no longer get some parts for it. Part of my reason for starting this thread is to see how many people have bad Type 2 ignitions. I Bought mine in August and the ignition (type 2) was bad from the start. They did have some ignitions in but they are already out of stock again before I got mine sent in to be replaced. Therefore, several people are either crashing their planes or horizon is replacing SEVERAL ignitions. I would send the ignition back to Horizon to be "EVALUATED" and then give up on running that engine this year.

I wonder how many of these engines are out there, Horizone jumped through many hoops to fix my troubles as well as sending me an entire engine when they could not replace the ignition My first ignition failed to follow the programing and when i recieved the 2nd engine there was an update to the programing on there website. That programing worked however i was unable to test the old ignition as it was returned in the same box as the new engine. I still wonder if the programing is correct on my ignition when I fire it up i get 3 short flashes of the light and one longer flash when she fires. the engine has huge power for a 19-20lb plane.

There were two kinds of programming method. The first one, doesn't use LED and use only servo during a programming, the second one use a LED and servo. Please if you don't understand programming send me a message and I'll try to describe it in more detail.

I understand programing verry well what I dont understand is why there is no complete and accurate manual the update on horizons site tells you the steps that you should follow. The manual shiped with the engine was wrong the function of the led was described in the original manual and on the horizon site do not explain what the lite fuction is during normal operation as i stated before i get 3 short and one longer flash as the ignition is first turned on. I would love to know if others with the short Pitts style programing get the same light flashes as i am and what flashes people get on the long style programing. Ive attached a screen shot of the description that is in the manual available from horizon I however have never seen the patterns described. IT is my guess that they are omitting the 3 short flashes as im sure the longer flash im getting isnt as long as the long silencer indicated in the photo. Im going to assume that a long silencer progamed ignition would have 3 short and one longer flash equal to about 4 of the shorter ones as indicated in the manual photo

I had simular problem on mine which has the latest small spark plug cap, it was shorting out through the rubber insulator which was split inside. wrapped some PTFE tape around it and it seems fine now.

For glofuel:
At this time we prepare a WEB pages, where we would like to describe all possible problems and where you will find the answers for your questions. Sorry for this. In our manual should be wrtitten that it is very important to protect a high voltage cable and I hope a protection plastic cable is enclosed in box with the engine.

And now I would like to write a little bit about a programming. You can setup a closed and opened possition for a choke, and then you set a type of silencer. After this you can see the LED flash shown on a schema shown by [bluemagic98] for short silencer (4th curve, short light longer dark.) for long silencer (5th curve, long light and short dark). You will never see it again until a next programming procedure will take place. So after power on you don't obtain an information about a type of silencer.
The 3 short flashes and 1 long flash (after power on) tells you, that ignition works properly and battery is good, otherwise LED will blink continously (1st curve). (A battery is checked during the blinking after power on.) This curve isn't drawn in a manual.

Please write me if it was useful for you otherwise I'll try to explain it in more detail.

I tried both advancing and retarding the timing by moving the pickup, and had no luck. Unfortunately I will have to send it off to horizon.

Isn't new technology great ? An American company can make the best system in the world with unquestioned reliablility...Some foreign company comes along with their new bling bling super duper high tech system that mostly works but not always, and everyone jumps on the bandwagon...What the foreign companies should do but won't, is offer their customers the choice of their ignition or none at all, at a much lower price..Then the customer would have a choice and could buy a C&H that works...
Will never happen...Just like buying a new car. If you want it without the audio system they will NOT give you back anywhere near what they CHARGE for the system...Only about 300% (OR MORE) profit there

sorta depends on one's viewpoint.
The ignitions I have had made locally ,work perfectly and the super techy stuff I get from overseas --also work perfectly .
The features offered on the imported ones are extremely appealing to a wide audience.
If they did not - they would not sell.
That is technical progress - but as such -always has it's bumps in the road.

Mine is running perfect (Evolution 45GX2). LED wire and choke servo attached.

Starts within a few flips. Just turn it on, idle throttle and flip until it starts. No full throttle choking and popping/dying, once it pops, it runs [8D]

Not really fair to make a poll like this, since people reading this thread are likely to read it because they do have problems and hence will be overrepresented, compared to the happy users not reading this thread because they don't have a problem.

Ignition and carburetion are not related- Maybe the problem is your needles are set wrong, and that is why you are having problems running the engine. Reset them to factory default and try again

Ok, so I Used the wrong words to explain. The engine would not throttle up from idle it would merely die. The reason is because it was LEAN. Not just for me but a friends evolution 58 engine also. I am at 5300 ft MSL that might have something to do with it, but still one whole turn is a long way from factory settings. The problem is not the needles it is the ignition. I sent it back to Horizon and they are going to replace it. They agreed it is faulty.

The problem is that they are out of stock until mid December. So since they had some ignitions in stock for one week in Mid September, but one week later they are already out of stock until Mid December there must be a problem. My reason for the post is to simply to see why did they run out of stock so fast? Did they order only a few ignitions for replacement parts?, is there a rash of people crashing their planes and breaking ignitions?, Or could it possibly be that people are having trouble with their ignitions and they are having to replace them (like what happened to me). Or finally did they send all the replacement ignitions back because there was a programming problem?

For the record My point is not to bash the Evolution engine. It is one of the best, most powerful engines I have seen. I would buy another in a minute I am just not sure about the ignition. I like Ralph's idea of getting a CH ignition. I might Check into that.

That's quite an assumption. Maybe they only had a few in stock? Maybe a lot of people with the old ignition opted to upgrade to get the autochoke, reverse running protection (which at least the 45, likes to do), lipo capability without regulator etc.

I had the old 45GX1 before i got the GX2. My GX1 ran in reverse 25% of starting attempts. This could also be the answer to RCIGN1's questions. New technology might be needed for convinience because the engines are pusing the limits - bear in mind that the 45 is only 43cc and more powerfull than a DA-50 with 50cc. Or to dick Hanson's assuptions on why they made it - maybe they made not to get a bad reputation for reverse running, and they might as well throw the other features in there as well. Anyhow, when some are innovative, there are always some saying the old way was better. I bet it was the same going from magneto to electronic ingnition aswell.

Had the GX1 not been replaced with the GX2 (for unrelated reasons - a torn cylinder) I would have been one of those that would have upgraded the ignition, for the reverse protection alone.

what is the factory default for the muffler preignition?
How do you set it with a manual choke?
Thanks,
George G. Royal (ggroyal1)

What is the factory default setting for the ignition?
How do you set the preignition for the short silencer using a manual choke?
Thanks,
George G. Royal (ggroyal1)

you need a servo to program the thing just hook one up to the modual. the fist step of the programing sets up the choke for open and closing of the choke it wont mater if its hooked up or not just remember what direction the servo travled when you go through the steps so when the 2nd part of the programing asks you to open or close the choke you set it in the same direction as they are ussing the choke as a indicator to program the type of exhaust. All you that you need to know is what direction the servo travels when you move the servo. they do it this way because not everyone has there servo horn mounted on the same side of the servo as well as teaching the ignition what the end points are on the linkage. so technicly you wouldnt even need a sevo you would just need to remember what direction you move the throttle stick on your transmiter when it asks you to open and close the choke. I would just say down was closed and up was open and proceed with the programing. I hope this helps

Thanks, that makes cents. This is my first gasser. Everybody at the field that flies gas uses DA's and Futaba's. We have JR's and evolution.

[X(]

If you had one of the old style engines then you know that it is not simply an issue of replacing the ignition. The plug is different. You would also have to replace the cylinder head. The crank is different as well as the drive washer. So if you want to replace the ignition you have to replace all of those. Horizon is not out of Cylinder Heads, Cranks or Drive washers. THey are only out of ignitions. That is where I made my assumptions.

). Not correct, I had both engines at the same time before I sent the GX1 back. They are identical including the plug and cap. I have heard that the most recent GX2 have a different plug though.

Those ignitions that horison had in stock was with the old plug (looking from the pics they had on the site at the time, I even considered purchasing one). Maybe they never had the new plug ignition in stock. Too many maybes to make assuptions in my humble oppinion.

As to crankshaft differences, that only applies to the 58 as far as I know.


I am very happy with my current engine, which is the reason for writing this, and would think it would be a shame if some opted for a diffent engine based on what may be a few people having problems. I don't own stocks in Horizon (or unfortunately in any other company for that matter).

Edited for clarity.

Pics to show...

Didn't care to remove the cowl, but I am sure the curved shape of the new ignition is recognizable. Pic of plug cap and of the complete old ignition.

Also not true. I ordered an ignition for another Evolution engine and it was the new style. I have the 58 so I can say with confidence that it is true about the crank on the 58. I dont know about the others. I do know that a friend had a front bearing go out on his old style 58 and Horizon is going to replace the engine. What does that tell you about parts on the old style engine and their availability?