New Taurus 3.2
#26
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
JoeAirPort
Have we figured out how to stand this engine off the firewall yet? I don't think those aluminum columns that many people use can be used on this engine or can they? I spoke with you in Toledo and you said there is some special radial stand off you guys were working on (plates?). I think the Edge I have needs 7 1/4 inch from firewall to the fornt of the prop hub. I'd like to put one of these on the plane (30%). When I measured it in Toledo it was something like 6 plus inches. I'm very interested in one of these.
I just noticed the top right picture shows the distance as exactly 7 1/4 inch. I wonder if this was exactly from the front of the prop hub, it's hard to tell if the tip of the tape measure was right on it or not.
Have we figured out how to stand this engine off the firewall yet? I don't think those aluminum columns that many people use can be used on this engine or can they? I spoke with you in Toledo and you said there is some special radial stand off you guys were working on (plates?). I think the Edge I have needs 7 1/4 inch from firewall to the fornt of the prop hub. I'd like to put one of these on the plane (30%). When I measured it in Toledo it was something like 6 plus inches. I'm very interested in one of these.
I just noticed the top right picture shows the distance as exactly 7 1/4 inch. I wonder if this was exactly from the front of the prop hub, it's hard to tell if the tip of the tape measure was right on it or not.
Regarding the question about headers, there are headers available. One of which is a "centerline" header with a 3/4" id that has the usual drop and rise and it aligns exactly with the centerline of the crank. That should work just fine for cannister installations. He's also working on another arrangement where the header angle near the exhaust port can be changed by the user. Direct manufacturer contact would provide better information on all of that.
As for the mounting, the radial mount is 1 inch from the back of the mount to the engine, and I listed all the dimensions as best as I could in a post a couple up from this one. Most of the 50cc planes I fly have a distance of about 7-1/2" from the engine mounting box to the face of the cowl so it should not require anythinng more than a ply or hardwood spacer equal in thicknes to offset the distance between the radial mount and the aircraft mounting surface. I can't see any reason why short aluminum standoffs could not be used as well between the radial mount and the firewall if that's what the owner desired.
When I took the pictures I was using a Macro feature on the camera for better close in detail, so I would imagine that the tape measure would not be as accurate a depiction as it could be. The dimensions in the other post are pretty accurate.
For Everyone:
Since the Taurus 3.2 uses a multi bolt propeller hub it's not a bad idea to obtain an inch pound torque wrench. This actually applies to any engine that uses a multi bolt hub. When you install the prop, simply use the torque wrench to tighten the bolts to 40 inch pounds and periodically check them once in awhile to assure yourself that they are well secured. This applies even more to those that use a wood prop where the hub will compress a little over time. As I said, this is a good thing to do with any engine that uses a multi bolt prop retention method. It's a cheap investment and excellent insurance, and checking the security of the propeller should be a part of the preflight for every R/C plane.
Pat
#27
mrbigg, we are finalizing(pricing) on the two headers, one straight back and the other looks like a drain pipe under a sink(centerline). The kind that has a trap. And also the special one Silversurfer mentioned. We are really excited about that one.
#29

My Feedback: (41)
ORIGINAL: Silversurfer
Back of mount to face of prop hub: 6-5/16", of which the mount accounts for 1" of that.
Back of mount to face of prop hub: 6-5/16", of which the mount accounts for 1" of that.
#32

My Feedback: (41)
oohh ok. I thought the drawing had the radial mount in it. I would use the radial mount if it's strong enough for the aluminum stand off's. I thought the Taurus guy said that the radial mount was not strong enough for the small point of contact of aluminum stand off's.
Using the 6 5/16 dimension, I would need 1 inch stand off's to clear the 7 1/4 distance of my Edge.
Using the 6 5/16 dimension, I would need 1 inch stand off's to clear the 7 1/4 distance of my Edge.
ORIGINAL: Silversurfer
The dimensional drawing shows the engine without the radial mount. The figure I gave of 6-5/16" includes the radial mount. Are you inferring that you do not want to use the radial mount?
The dimensional drawing shows the engine without the radial mount. The figure I gave of 6-5/16" includes the radial mount. Are you inferring that you do not want to use the radial mount?
#33
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
So far, my view is that if any aluminum standoffs were to make solid contact with the edges of the holes for the screws of the radil mount it should be ok. Better still would be to use small blocks of hardwood to serve the same purpose, IMO. There's just something about the nature of wood that permits it to absorb and mute a little vibration rather than directly telegraph it onward better than metal. I'll have to go out and take a closer look at the back of he mount again to verify, but I recall looking at it from that point of interest the other day.
#34
AZHAR, No longer making the 42, no need for it when the dimensions are the same as the 52 except it was 2 ounces lighter. Therefore throttle control is necessary.
JOEAIRPORT, the adjustable radial mount added too much unnessary weight, not practical.
Every one that I have seen that needed extra length uses a very simple solution, use a hardwood 1" dowell cut to the proper length and drill a hole thru the center,VIOLA!! any size spacer you need and CHEAP to.
The reason for Taurus not using a 4 point spindly stand off is that the engine developes a lot of torque and in testing years ago actually watched the engine twist the stand off.Very unsafe condition. Ask any engineer which they would prefer, a 4 point standoff or a full contact 5 point radial mount. In our case, there is no discussion on the issue.
JOEAIRPORT, the adjustable radial mount added too much unnessary weight, not practical.
Every one that I have seen that needed extra length uses a very simple solution, use a hardwood 1" dowell cut to the proper length and drill a hole thru the center,VIOLA!! any size spacer you need and CHEAP to.
The reason for Taurus not using a 4 point spindly stand off is that the engine developes a lot of torque and in testing years ago actually watched the engine twist the stand off.Very unsafe condition. Ask any engineer which they would prefer, a 4 point standoff or a full contact 5 point radial mount. In our case, there is no discussion on the issue.
#36

My Feedback: (41)
That’s the way I understand it too. The adjustable radial mount he’s talking about is what he was discussing with me at the Toledo show. It was like 1/8 inch aluminum plates that you could stack up under the radial mount. If you had an inch of these plates, it could get pretty heavy. So the 1 inch diameter hardwood dowels seem to be the ticket.
Thanks
Thanks
#37
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
I usually build my mounts for my 6.4 out of 3/4" wide hardwood and have always felt that it could be a bit thinner still and continue to do the job well. As long as the center hole can be drilled and have 3/16 or so of material surrounding the hole you can go a little less that 1" dimensional stuff.
#38

My Feedback: (46)
I've got just under 2 gallons on mine, and so far it has been flawless.
I'm just getting ready to switch to synthetic, Red Line because of ease of availability and their good reputation.
Bill I have a question for you about the 6 bolt hub, I've got an older model (last year) with the single bolt hub would there be any advantage to switching? I don't really need to fix something that isn't broken.
I'm also interested in the header and pipe when available.
Any idea when a 100cc twin might be available?
Thanks!
I'm just getting ready to switch to synthetic, Red Line because of ease of availability and their good reputation.
Bill I have a question for you about the 6 bolt hub, I've got an older model (last year) with the single bolt hub would there be any advantage to switching? I don't really need to fix something that isn't broken.
I'm also interested in the header and pipe when available.
Any idea when a 100cc twin might be available?
Thanks!
#39
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Bill doesn't usually prowl these forum that way we do, so if I may I'll try to relate a conversation I had with Bill last week. Short version is there is no reason to convert to a 6 bolt hub if you don't use a pipe wrench to tighten the bolt.
It seems that some time back in the days of the easy to use, don't need to drill the prop, the bolt is pre-drilled for the spinner bolt days someone managed to break or strip out the bolt on a 3.2. Shop testing that was done to simulate that failure indicated that the individual had to apply in the area of 50 foot pounds of torque for that to have happened. That takes someone with a pretty good arm or a very long wrench to hit that level of torque.
In any case, being a company that immediately reacts to a situation that could even remotely imply that there may have been a deficiency, Taurus initiated the 6 bolt hub and eliminated the center bolt to prevent that situation from ocurring again. I would have preferred a single bolt hub myself, but what can ya do? A 6 bolt hub is massive over kill but it helps to prevent the customer from doing damage to an engine due to an excess of enthusiasm.
If I made any mistakes with my recollection of the conversation I'm sure the correction will be soon to follow.
It seems that some time back in the days of the easy to use, don't need to drill the prop, the bolt is pre-drilled for the spinner bolt days someone managed to break or strip out the bolt on a 3.2. Shop testing that was done to simulate that failure indicated that the individual had to apply in the area of 50 foot pounds of torque for that to have happened. That takes someone with a pretty good arm or a very long wrench to hit that level of torque.
In any case, being a company that immediately reacts to a situation that could even remotely imply that there may have been a deficiency, Taurus initiated the 6 bolt hub and eliminated the center bolt to prevent that situation from ocurring again. I would have preferred a single bolt hub myself, but what can ya do? A 6 bolt hub is massive over kill but it helps to prevent the customer from doing damage to an engine due to an excess of enthusiasm.
If I made any mistakes with my recollection of the conversation I'm sure the correction will be soon to follow.
#40

My Feedback: (10)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,712
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Puryear, TN
ORIGINAL: Silversurfer
It seems that some time back in the days of the easy to use, don't need to drill the prop, the bolt is pre-drilled for the spinner bolt days someone managed to break or strip out the bolt on a 3.2. Shop testing that was done to simulate that failure indicated that the individual had to apply in the area of 50 foot pounds of torque for that to have happened. That takes someone with a pretty good arm or a very long wrench to hit that level of torque.
In any case, being a company that immediately reacts to a situation that could even remotely imply that there may have been a deficiency, Taurus initiated the 6 bolt hub and eliminated the center bolt to prevent that situation from ocurring again. I would have preferred a single bolt hub myself, but what can ya do?
It seems that some time back in the days of the easy to use, don't need to drill the prop, the bolt is pre-drilled for the spinner bolt days someone managed to break or strip out the bolt on a 3.2. Shop testing that was done to simulate that failure indicated that the individual had to apply in the area of 50 foot pounds of torque for that to have happened. That takes someone with a pretty good arm or a very long wrench to hit that level of torque.
In any case, being a company that immediately reacts to a situation that could even remotely imply that there may have been a deficiency, Taurus initiated the 6 bolt hub and eliminated the center bolt to prevent that situation from ocurring again. I would have preferred a single bolt hub myself, but what can ya do?
BTW, what a great looking 52 Silversurfer!! If I ever get another 50 size engine, I will definitely give one a try...
#41

My Feedback: (46)
ORIGINAL: Silversurfer
Bill doesn't usually prowl these forum that way we do, so if I may I'll try to relate a conversation I had with Bill last week. Short version is there is no reason to convert to a 6 bolt hub if you don't use a pipe wrench to tighten the bolt.
It seems that some time back in the days of the easy to use, don't need to drill the prop, the bolt is pre-drilled for the spinner bolt days someone managed to break or strip out the bolt on a 3.2. Shop testing that was done to simulate that failure indicated that the individual had to apply in the area of 50 foot pounds of torque for that to have happened. That takes someone with a pretty good arm or a very long wrench to hit that level of torque.
In any case, being a company that immediately reacts to a situation that could even remotely imply that there may have been a deficiency, Taurus initiated the 6 bolt hub and eliminated the center bolt to prevent that situation from ocurring again. I would have preferred a single bolt hub myself, but what can ya do? A 6 bolt hub is massive over kill but it helps to prevent the customer from doing damage to an engine due to an excess of enthusiasm.
If I made any mistakes with my recollection of the conversation I'm sure the correction will be soon to follow.
Bill doesn't usually prowl these forum that way we do, so if I may I'll try to relate a conversation I had with Bill last week. Short version is there is no reason to convert to a 6 bolt hub if you don't use a pipe wrench to tighten the bolt.
It seems that some time back in the days of the easy to use, don't need to drill the prop, the bolt is pre-drilled for the spinner bolt days someone managed to break or strip out the bolt on a 3.2. Shop testing that was done to simulate that failure indicated that the individual had to apply in the area of 50 foot pounds of torque for that to have happened. That takes someone with a pretty good arm or a very long wrench to hit that level of torque.
In any case, being a company that immediately reacts to a situation that could even remotely imply that there may have been a deficiency, Taurus initiated the 6 bolt hub and eliminated the center bolt to prevent that situation from ocurring again. I would have preferred a single bolt hub myself, but what can ya do? A 6 bolt hub is massive over kill but it helps to prevent the customer from doing damage to an engine due to an excess of enthusiasm.
If I made any mistakes with my recollection of the conversation I'm sure the correction will be soon to follow.
#43

My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Riverton,
WY
Just tighten the single bolt till it sqeaks and go fly, tune the carb in spring and fall, use Dino oil at 50:1, fly the c*#p out of it and it will last 10 years or so.
OR take care of it and give it to your grandkids.
OR take care of it and give it to your grandkids.
#44

My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Riverton,
WY
The above post is only a little tongue in cheek...
A long time back we had an engine builder who put a 4.2 Sachs on a test stand and ran it for 24hr a day for 30 days (720hr). They used dino oil at 40:1 and a servo driver on the throttle. After 30 days they tore it down and measured things.
Main bearings... with in specs for new parts
Rod bearings.... within specs for new parts
Cylinder.... just within specs for new parts
Piston.... just outside specs for new parts
Ring ..... with in useable specs, estimated life to replacement would be due was an addational 250-300 hr.
The Sachs engines were/are rated at 1000 hr, so these numbers back that up.
All these endless post about oil is people who should be out flying instead of wasting time on the internet..... good clean oil, clean gas and learn how to fly the sucker. Dont crash and these "old not state of the art industrial " engines will last a life time.
A long time back we had an engine builder who put a 4.2 Sachs on a test stand and ran it for 24hr a day for 30 days (720hr). They used dino oil at 40:1 and a servo driver on the throttle. After 30 days they tore it down and measured things.
Main bearings... with in specs for new parts
Rod bearings.... within specs for new parts
Cylinder.... just within specs for new parts
Piston.... just outside specs for new parts
Ring ..... with in useable specs, estimated life to replacement would be due was an addational 250-300 hr.
The Sachs engines were/are rated at 1000 hr, so these numbers back that up.
All these endless post about oil is people who should be out flying instead of wasting time on the internet..... good clean oil, clean gas and learn how to fly the sucker. Dont crash and these "old not state of the art industrial " engines will last a life time.
#45
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Although we differ on Dino oil vs Syn, I agree with all the rest. I'm just about to go and do somethng along the lines of the guy that tested that 4.2, but I believe in flying them for that time period, not stopping the table from moving
I like to sleep every so often so I'll brek up that time into a little shorter segments.
I like to sleep every so often so I'll brek up that time into a little shorter segments.
#46
Well here it is 1:15a.m. eastern confusing time.
Camss69. the advantage is the single bolt in my opinion. But since most props have a 10mm center hole you still have to drill it out for the single bolt hub. the 6 bolt has a 10mm pilot, but you have to drill 6 little ones.We try to answer the needs of the consumer.
Pretty darn soon on the headers.
Silversurfer, yup OK to use the 1"dowel. Or if you really want to maintain the solidity of the radial mount, cut a donut shaped ring the desired thickness the same diameter as the mount(4")
We're trying some new ideas with the twins, and it is our policy not to release anything until it
meets or exceeds our initial specs.
Taurus Engines. Use it, don't abuse it and like TKG said,your grandkids will have a great engine.
Please don't run the Taurus @ 32, or 40 to 1. We don't care what the field experts say. We designed and built the engine, the field experts didn't
Thanks to all for purchasing a Taurus and your confidence in our product.
Camss69. the advantage is the single bolt in my opinion. But since most props have a 10mm center hole you still have to drill it out for the single bolt hub. the 6 bolt has a 10mm pilot, but you have to drill 6 little ones.We try to answer the needs of the consumer.
Pretty darn soon on the headers.
Silversurfer, yup OK to use the 1"dowel. Or if you really want to maintain the solidity of the radial mount, cut a donut shaped ring the desired thickness the same diameter as the mount(4")
We're trying some new ideas with the twins, and it is our policy not to release anything until it
meets or exceeds our initial specs.
Taurus Engines. Use it, don't abuse it and like TKG said,your grandkids will have a great engine.
Please don't run the Taurus @ 32, or 40 to 1. We don't care what the field experts say. We designed and built the engine, the field experts didn't
Thanks to all for purchasing a Taurus and your confidence in our product.



