DL-50 engine
#5751
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RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: Cyberwolf
mstam1971
I too bought from DLUSA maybe one of the last 50's in stock, and its still under warranty, but if I have any problems I guess i'm just SOL as far as a warranty goes. Makes ya feel all warm and fuzzy don't it.
At the time Valley View didn't have any 50's in stock where DLUSA did and I thought Bob was in it for the long haul. Oh well I usually always do my own work on all my engines anyway, but it would have been nice to have the cushion there just in case of a major prob.
I thought you wanted to upgrade from stock parts, but glad that Jody has you fixed up. TMB said they had a complete line of DL parts in one of there posts here, and you say they don't Hummmmmmmmm maybe they have got the cart in front of the horse???
Joe I don't have enough time on my engine yet to see any oil leakage from anywhere, but now you have me wondering if this is a problem that all of them have sooner or later? I see that Jody seals up the crankcase halfs when reassembling, I presume the factory doesn't do this.
No I was not kidding, since I have not had the need to tear down my engine yet, I didn't know what was there, if anything. Sounds to me like some poor or uneven surface finishes if they would leak that bad with nothing.
So at the best they do use a sealant of some kind, but from the sounds of it either not enough or something that won't hold up.
mstam1971
I too bought from DLUSA maybe one of the last 50's in stock, and its still under warranty, but if I have any problems I guess i'm just SOL as far as a warranty goes. Makes ya feel all warm and fuzzy don't it.
At the time Valley View didn't have any 50's in stock where DLUSA did and I thought Bob was in it for the long haul. Oh well I usually always do my own work on all my engines anyway, but it would have been nice to have the cushion there just in case of a major prob.
I thought you wanted to upgrade from stock parts, but glad that Jody has you fixed up. TMB said they had a complete line of DL parts in one of there posts here, and you say they don't Hummmmmmmmm maybe they have got the cart in front of the horse???
Joe I don't have enough time on my engine yet to see any oil leakage from anywhere, but now you have me wondering if this is a problem that all of them have sooner or later? I see that Jody seals up the crankcase halfs when reassembling, I presume the factory doesn't do this.
No I was not kidding, since I have not had the need to tear down my engine yet, I didn't know what was there, if anything. Sounds to me like some poor or uneven surface finishes if they would leak that bad with nothing.
So at the best they do use a sealant of some kind, but from the sounds of it either not enough or something that won't hold up.
#5752
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RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: 72
I managed to strip one of the muffler bolt holes out in mine. It is m5x.8 I bought a complete heli-coil kit on ebay for $5.00 and fixed it in 10 minutes. Try ebay, lots of different size kits there.
I managed to strip one of the muffler bolt holes out in mine. It is m5x.8 I bought a complete heli-coil kit on ebay for $5.00 and fixed it in 10 minutes. Try ebay, lots of different size kits there.
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RE: DL-50 engine
A simple thing to do to help prolong the longevity of your spark plug threads is to use a little Anti-Seize . I used it for years on all my dirtbikes so I figure why stop there . I have never striped a thread in that area . Note: I'm knocking on wood right now .
One trick is never use anything but fingers to get plug snug , then use a wrench . Another cool trick is to get some very flexible thin tubing to go over the ceramic portion of the plug if an extension is needed .This will allow the feel as if your fingers were on it . Fuel line works good on glow plugs for an extension too , especialy on saitos .
One trick is never use anything but fingers to get plug snug , then use a wrench . Another cool trick is to get some very flexible thin tubing to go over the ceramic portion of the plug if an extension is needed .This will allow the feel as if your fingers were on it . Fuel line works good on glow plugs for an extension too , especialy on saitos .
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RE: DL-50 engine
im not the moderator,but as ive discussed in a pm ,that us modellers can,be a little high strung and get a little testy at times,and when one types a statement ,it could be misunderstood,or taken out of context or something read into it,just by the way its typed ,in defense of cyberwolf,,which i dont know from adam,,,i dont think he was making a blanket indightment of the dl line or its reps,and i believe jodi ,misunderstood ,his statement,i personally have read certain statements ,in theese and other posts ,that made me bite my toungue,because there is a certain decorum expected here ,i declined to post,so as a follower of this thread ,i hope we all dont over react and ego,s stop the flow of good info,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,ps my dl 50 runs like a clock ,and maybe dl,s pricing will give the competition something to think about.
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RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: unit53
im not the moderator,but as ive discussed in a pm ,that us modellers can,be a little high strung andget a little testy at times,and when one typesa statement ,it could be misunderstood,or taken out of context or something read into it,just by the way its typed ,in defense of cyberwolf,,which i dont know from adam,,,i dont think he was making a blanket indightment of the dl line or its reps,and i believe jodi ,misunderstood ,his statement,i personally have read certain statements ,in theese and other posts ,that made me bite my toungue,because there is a certain decorum expected here ,i declined to post,so as a follower of this thread ,i hope we all dont over react and ego,s stop the flow of good info,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,ps my dl 50 runs like a clock ,and maybe dl,s pricing will give the competition something to think about.
im not the moderator,but as ive discussed in a pm ,that us modellers can,be a little high strung andget a little testy at times,and when one typesa statement ,it could be misunderstood,or taken out of context or something read into it,just by the way its typed ,in defense of cyberwolf,,which i dont know from adam,,,i dont think he was making a blanket indightment of the dl line or its reps,and i believe jodi ,misunderstood ,his statement,i personally have read certain statements ,in theese and other posts ,that made me bite my toungue,because there is a certain decorum expected here ,i declined to post,so as a follower of this thread ,i hope we all dont over react and ego,s stop the flow of good info,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,ps my dl 50 runs like a clock ,and maybe dl,s pricing will give the competition something to think about.
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RE: DL-50 engine
I have a question, i am building a cap 232 27% and putting the dle55 in her, this is my first gasser and what an experience it has been already lol, i am by far not a master builder however i enjoy the heck out of learning. I installed the engine with some da-50 3" standoffs and 1/4 ply added to the firewall so i could get the proper distance from the firewall. i disconnected the throttle spring to get rid of the tenision on my servo, as i am sure you gentlemen are aware, the choke is behind the throttle (closest to the firewall) and is in the exact line as the throttle arm. how can i hook up the choke ? i dont really want to use a servo, i have enough weight up there already. i cant go through the front because the throttle is in the way, i am sorry if i sound ignorant to building, but i am teaching myself as i go along.
#5757
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RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: hillbillyexpress
I have a question, i am building a cap 232 27% and putting the dle55 in her, this is my first gasser and what an experience it has been already lol, i am by far not a master builder however i enjoy the heck out of learning. I installed the engine with some da-50 3'' standoffs and 1/4 ply added to the firewall so i could get the proper distance from the firewall. i disconnected the throttle spring to get rid of the tenision on my servo, as i am sure you gentlemen are aware, the choke is behind the throttle (closest to the firewall) and is in the exact line as the throttle arm. how can i hook up the choke ? i dont really want to use a servo, i have enough weight up there already. i cant go through the front because the throttle is in the way, i am sorry if i sound ignorant to building, but i am teaching myself as i go along.
I have a question, i am building a cap 232 27% and putting the dle55 in her, this is my first gasser and what an experience it has been already lol, i am by far not a master builder however i enjoy the heck out of learning. I installed the engine with some da-50 3'' standoffs and 1/4 ply added to the firewall so i could get the proper distance from the firewall. i disconnected the throttle spring to get rid of the tenision on my servo, as i am sure you gentlemen are aware, the choke is behind the throttle (closest to the firewall) and is in the exact line as the throttle arm. how can i hook up the choke ? i dont really want to use a servo, i have enough weight up there already. i cant go through the front because the throttle is in the way, i am sorry if i sound ignorant to building, but i am teaching myself as i go along.
My carb's are rotated. It works either way...the choke is on the bottom if the carb is in the stock position (throttle and choke on the left side).
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RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: hillbillyexpress
I have a question, i am building a cap 232 27% and putting the dle55 in her, this is my first gasser and what an experience it has been already lol, i am by far not a master builder however i enjoy the heck out of learning. I installed the engine with some da-50 3'' standoffs and 1/4 ply added to the firewall so i could get the proper distance from the firewall. i disconnected the throttle spring to get rid of the tenision on my servo, as i am sure you gentlemen are aware, the choke is behind the throttle (closest to the firewall) and is in the exact line as the throttle arm. how can i hook up the choke ? i dont really want to use a servo, i have enough weight up there already. i cant go through the front because the throttle is in the way, i am sorry if i sound ignorant to building, but i am teaching myself as i go along.
I have a question, i am building a cap 232 27% and putting the dle55 in her, this is my first gasser and what an experience it has been already lol, i am by far not a master builder however i enjoy the heck out of learning. I installed the engine with some da-50 3'' standoffs and 1/4 ply added to the firewall so i could get the proper distance from the firewall. i disconnected the throttle spring to get rid of the tenision on my servo, as i am sure you gentlemen are aware, the choke is behind the throttle (closest to the firewall) and is in the exact line as the throttle arm. how can i hook up the choke ? i dont really want to use a servo, i have enough weight up there already. i cant go through the front because the throttle is in the way, i am sorry if i sound ignorant to building, but i am teaching myself as i go along.
You can flip the throttle arm 180 and screw on the supplied composite arm, or replace with something like a hitec 1" servo arm and a 4-40 bolt, this put them on different levels, and all works neat
Cheers
Scott.
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RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: edward cobb
If you are still having trouble, I bought my eng from www.valleyviewrc.com he also carries parts for the DL 50.
ORIGINAL: macflyklaus
What experiences have you because with Bob Kramer (dlusa). I got him several mails sent, but get no answer.
Klaus
What experiences have you because with Bob Kramer (dlusa). I got him several mails sent, but get no answer.
Klaus
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RE: DL-50 engine
Thank you for the great pics, the problem is that i already have installed the push rod for the throttle and epoxyed the pushrod tube, so i dont think ill be able to flip the throttle are on the carb, is there a way to flip the arn on the choke ?
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RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: hillbillyexpress
Thank you for the great pics, the problem is that i already have installed the push rod for the throttle and epoxyed the pushrod tube, so i dont think ill be able to flip the throttle are on the carb, is there a way to flip the arn on the choke ?
Thank you for the great pics, the problem is that i already have installed the push rod for the throttle and epoxyed the pushrod tube, so i dont think ill be able to flip the throttle are on the carb, is there a way to flip the arn on the choke ?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD847&P=0
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RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: paul5992
Cyberwolf, You build engines for a living? That's hard to believe, if you don't realise that two, even well machined surfaces, need some kind of sealant to make an air tight seal. I'm not sticking up for Jody I just find it hard to believe that you have that much experience with a question like that.
Cyberwolf, You build engines for a living? That's hard to believe, if you don't realise that two, even well machined surfaces, need some kind of sealant to make an air tight seal. I'm not sticking up for Jody I just find it hard to believe that you have that much experience with a question like that.
As for two well machined surfaces needing something to help seal them up, yes they are called gaskets ever heard of them?
Or a compatable sealant of some sort.
Most the newer cars and light truck's have gone as far as useing no gaskets on such things as water pumps, oilpans, timing covers and so on with only a light coat of silicon to bind the two together form the factory, due to the fine finishes they put on mating parts. Ford had a major problem with this, the oil was attacking the silicon used and plugging up the oil pump screen and taking the bearings out their engines. This of couse happen's as a rule after the engine was out of warranty.
The use of Alum heads on Cast Iron blocks has presented a major problem that has been sort of fixed now, useing only a graphite head gasket with silicon inlays was blowing out after a short period of time so metal shims was added to allow the head to grow and shrink due to the coefficient of dissimilar metals used, Allows the head now to actually move on the block without blowing the gasket.
What I was asking was this and I will spell it out so even the simplest of minds can understand , does the factory add a sealant to the gasket to seal the two haves together of the DL-50 engine, if so there is an issue with the machine work done, weather it be a tolorance build up uneven surfaces or just to rough a finish or maybe even a torque issue I don't know but I do know this if its leaking there is something wrong someplace.
I to like my DL-50 engine so far it has been a great little engine But if there is a potential problem I would like to curb it in the mists before it can lead to other more serious things, such as a air leak causing a lean run. If oil can leak out air can leak in no getting around it.
#5764
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RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: Cyberwolf
Ok for one I do build engines for a living like I said I own and operate a automotive machine shop, I have nothing to prove to you or anyone else for that matter, I just asked a simple question.
As for two well machined surfaces needing something to help seal them up, yes they are called gaskets ever heard of them?
Or a compatable sealant of some sort.
Most the newer cars and light truck's have gone as far as useing no gaskets on such things as water pumps, oilpans, timing covers and so on with only a light coat of silicon to bind the two together form the factory, due to the fine finishes they put on mating parts. Ford had a major problem with this, the oil was attacking the silicon used and plugging up the oil pump screen and taking the bearings out their engines. This of couse happen's as a rule after the engine was out of warranty.
The use of Alum heads on Cast Iron blocks has presented a major problem that has been sort of fixed now, useing only a graphite head gasket with silicon inlays was blowing out after a short period of time so metal shims was added to allow the head to grow and shrink due to the coefficient of dissimilar metals used, Allows the head now to actually move on the block without blowing the gasket.
What I was asking was this and I will spell it out so even the simplest of minds can understand , does the factory add a sealant to the gasket to seal the two haves together of the DL-50 engine, if so there is an issue with the machine work done, weather it be a tolorance build up uneven surfaces or just to rough a finish or maybe even a torque issue I don't know but I do know this if its leaking there is something wrong someplace.
I to like my DL-50 engine so far it has been a great little engine But if there is a potential problem I would like to curb it in the mists before it can lead to other more serious things, such as a air leak causing a lean run. If oil can leak out air can leak in no getting around it.
ORIGINAL: paul5992
Cyberwolf, You build engines for a living? That's hard to believe, if you don't realise that two, even well machined surfaces, need some kind of sealant to make an air tight seal. I'm not sticking up for Jody I just find it hard to believe that you have that much experience with a question like that.
Cyberwolf, You build engines for a living? That's hard to believe, if you don't realise that two, even well machined surfaces, need some kind of sealant to make an air tight seal. I'm not sticking up for Jody I just find it hard to believe that you have that much experience with a question like that.
As for two well machined surfaces needing something to help seal them up, yes they are called gaskets ever heard of them?
Or a compatable sealant of some sort.
Most the newer cars and light truck's have gone as far as useing no gaskets on such things as water pumps, oilpans, timing covers and so on with only a light coat of silicon to bind the two together form the factory, due to the fine finishes they put on mating parts. Ford had a major problem with this, the oil was attacking the silicon used and plugging up the oil pump screen and taking the bearings out their engines. This of couse happen's as a rule after the engine was out of warranty.
The use of Alum heads on Cast Iron blocks has presented a major problem that has been sort of fixed now, useing only a graphite head gasket with silicon inlays was blowing out after a short period of time so metal shims was added to allow the head to grow and shrink due to the coefficient of dissimilar metals used, Allows the head now to actually move on the block without blowing the gasket.
What I was asking was this and I will spell it out so even the simplest of minds can understand , does the factory add a sealant to the gasket to seal the two haves together of the DL-50 engine, if so there is an issue with the machine work done, weather it be a tolorance build up uneven surfaces or just to rough a finish or maybe even a torque issue I don't know but I do know this if its leaking there is something wrong someplace.
I to like my DL-50 engine so far it has been a great little engine But if there is a potential problem I would like to curb it in the mists before it can lead to other more serious things, such as a air leak causing a lean run. If oil can leak out air can leak in no getting around it.
#5766
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RE: DL-50 engine
Moki did not use gaskets, sealant or leak.
My early DL50 serial # 173 or 178 can't remember, does not leak. It did come thru with a plugged high speed carb orifice, off center machined prop bolt and prop driver with .0075 run out. Replaced the defective parts and it runs strong.
How they machined the bolt off center is a mystery to me. The prop driver was a very loose fit on the shaft and filled with bearing locktite or ca.
My early DL50 serial # 173 or 178 can't remember, does not leak. It did come thru with a plugged high speed carb orifice, off center machined prop bolt and prop driver with .0075 run out. Replaced the defective parts and it runs strong.
How they machined the bolt off center is a mystery to me. The prop driver was a very loose fit on the shaft and filled with bearing locktite or ca.
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RE: DL-50 engine
Mine was put together with some sealant but simply not enough I found out when I took it apart. I now put some Permatex heat-resistant thread locker between the halves. Hope it'll hold, I think so.
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RE: DL-50 engine
Cyberwolf, You have to explain yourself for the simplest minds on a forum. Because we can't ask you questions or make comments without offending you. A clear question without belittling the DL quality is a must. If you want to bash DL, this isn't the place to do it. We all take offence to that because we all love our DL's.
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RE: DL-50 engine
Moki's are glow engines. Glow fuel and Gasoline are two very different fuels. Glow fuel is 18 to 20% oil. That's about 5 to 1 mix. Our Gasser's are running 32 to 1 mix. That's 3.125% oil. The more viscous the fluid/fuel the less chance there will be for a leak.
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RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: Cyberwolf
Ok for one I do build engines for a living like I said I own and operate a automotive machine shop, I have nothing to prove to you or anyone else for that matter, I just asked a simple question.
As for two well machined surfaces needing something to help seal them up, yes they are called gaskets ever heard of them?
Or a compatable sealant of some sort.
Most the newer cars and light truck's have gone as far as useing no gaskets on such things as water pumps, oilpans, timing covers and so on with only a light coat of silicon to bind the two together form the factory, due to the fine finishes they put on mating parts. Ford had a major problem with this, the oil was attacking the silicon used and plugging up the oil pump screen and taking the bearings out their engines. This of couse happen's as a rule after the engine was out of warranty.
The use of Alum heads on Cast Iron blocks has presented a major problem that has been sort of fixed now, useing only a graphite head gasket with silicon inlays was blowing out after a short period of time so metal shims was added to allow the head to grow and shrink due to the coefficient of dissimilar metals used, Allows the head now to actually move on the block without blowing the gasket.
What I was asking was this and I will spell it out so even the simplest of minds can understand , does the factory add a sealant to the gasket to seal the two haves together of the DL-50 engine, if so there is an issue with the machine work done, weather it be a tolorance build up uneven surfaces or just to rough a finish or maybe even a torque issue I don't know but I do know this if its leaking there is something wrong someplace.
I to like my DL-50 engine so far it has been a great little engine But if there is a potential problem I would like to curb it in the mists before it can lead to other more serious things, such as a air leak causing a lean run. If oil can leak out air can leak in no getting around it.
ORIGINAL: paul5992
Cyberwolf, You build engines for a living? That's hard to believe, if you don't realise that two, even well machined surfaces, need some kind of sealant to make an air tight seal. I'm not sticking up for Jody I just find it hard to believe that you have that much experience with a question like that.
Cyberwolf, You build engines for a living? That's hard to believe, if you don't realise that two, even well machined surfaces, need some kind of sealant to make an air tight seal. I'm not sticking up for Jody I just find it hard to believe that you have that much experience with a question like that.
As for two well machined surfaces needing something to help seal them up, yes they are called gaskets ever heard of them?
Or a compatable sealant of some sort.
Most the newer cars and light truck's have gone as far as useing no gaskets on such things as water pumps, oilpans, timing covers and so on with only a light coat of silicon to bind the two together form the factory, due to the fine finishes they put on mating parts. Ford had a major problem with this, the oil was attacking the silicon used and plugging up the oil pump screen and taking the bearings out their engines. This of couse happen's as a rule after the engine was out of warranty.
The use of Alum heads on Cast Iron blocks has presented a major problem that has been sort of fixed now, useing only a graphite head gasket with silicon inlays was blowing out after a short period of time so metal shims was added to allow the head to grow and shrink due to the coefficient of dissimilar metals used, Allows the head now to actually move on the block without blowing the gasket.
What I was asking was this and I will spell it out so even the simplest of minds can understand , does the factory add a sealant to the gasket to seal the two haves together of the DL-50 engine, if so there is an issue with the machine work done, weather it be a tolorance build up uneven surfaces or just to rough a finish or maybe even a torque issue I don't know but I do know this if its leaking there is something wrong someplace.
I to like my DL-50 engine so far it has been a great little engine But if there is a potential problem I would like to curb it in the mists before it can lead to other more serious things, such as a air leak causing a lean run. If oil can leak out air can leak in no getting around it.
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RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: Cyberwolf
Ok for one I do build engines for a living like I said I own and operate a automotive machine shop, I have nothing to prove to you or anyone else for that matter, I just asked a simple question.
As for two well machined surfaces needing something to help seal them up, yes they are called gaskets ever heard of them?
Or a compatable sealant of some sort.
Most the newer cars and light truck's have gone as far as useing no gaskets on such things as water pumps, oilpans, timing covers and so on with only a light coat of silicon to bind the two together form the factory, due to the fine finishes they put on mating parts. Ford had a major problem with this, the oil was attacking the silicon used and plugging up the oil pump screen and taking the bearings out their engines. This of couse happen's as a rule after the engine was out of warranty.
The use of Alum heads on Cast Iron blocks has presented a major problem that has been sort of fixed now, useing only a graphite head gasket with silicon inlays was blowing out after a short period of time so metal shims was added to allow the head to grow and shrink due to the coefficient of dissimilar metals used, Allows the head now to actually move on the block without blowing the gasket.
What I was asking was this and I will spell it out so even the simplest of minds can understand , does the factory add a sealant to the gasket to seal the two haves together of the DL-50 engine, if so there is an issue with the machine work done, weather it be a tolorance build up uneven surfaces or just to rough a finish or maybe even a torque issue I don't know but I do know this if its leaking there is something wrong someplace.
I to like my DL-50 engine so far it has been a great little engine But if there is a potential problem I would like to curb it in the mists before it can lead to other more serious things, such as a air leak causing a lean run. If oil can leak out air can leak in no getting around it.
ORIGINAL: paul5992
Cyberwolf, You build engines for a living? That's hard to believe, if you don't realise that two, even well machined surfaces, need some kind of sealant to make an air tight seal. I'm not sticking up for Jody I just find it hard to believe that you have that much experience with a question like that.
Cyberwolf, You build engines for a living? That's hard to believe, if you don't realise that two, even well machined surfaces, need some kind of sealant to make an air tight seal. I'm not sticking up for Jody I just find it hard to believe that you have that much experience with a question like that.
As for two well machined surfaces needing something to help seal them up, yes they are called gaskets ever heard of them?
Or a compatable sealant of some sort.
Most the newer cars and light truck's have gone as far as useing no gaskets on such things as water pumps, oilpans, timing covers and so on with only a light coat of silicon to bind the two together form the factory, due to the fine finishes they put on mating parts. Ford had a major problem with this, the oil was attacking the silicon used and plugging up the oil pump screen and taking the bearings out their engines. This of couse happen's as a rule after the engine was out of warranty.
The use of Alum heads on Cast Iron blocks has presented a major problem that has been sort of fixed now, useing only a graphite head gasket with silicon inlays was blowing out after a short period of time so metal shims was added to allow the head to grow and shrink due to the coefficient of dissimilar metals used, Allows the head now to actually move on the block without blowing the gasket.
What I was asking was this and I will spell it out so even the simplest of minds can understand , does the factory add a sealant to the gasket to seal the two haves together of the DL-50 engine, if so there is an issue with the machine work done, weather it be a tolorance build up uneven surfaces or just to rough a finish or maybe even a torque issue I don't know but I do know this if its leaking there is something wrong someplace.
I to like my DL-50 engine so far it has been a great little engine But if there is a potential problem I would like to curb it in the mists before it can lead to other more serious things, such as a air leak causing a lean run. If oil can leak out air can leak in no getting around it.
Just for info heres some pics of the DL50 vs the DLE55 crank case. The 55 now has a lip and a recess to improve the seal/increase the surface area of the two mating surfaces. The 50 didnt have this....must have been enough of a problem for DL to want to make a change. Good to see they are always making improvements
See pics.
Cheers
Scott
#5773
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RE: DL-50 engine
Most of the better engine manufacturers use some type of sealant at the case halves. Once they heat up gas under pressure has been known to leak with any of them, especially where cases were altered to make them thinner, aka lighter. So hopefully DL does use a sealer. It doesn't take much, but that tiny bit can be the difference between a good engine and a bad one.
None of the model airplane engine manufacturers are makiing ultra high tolerane products, nor are they selling a new engine for $4,000.oo to $7,000.00 like the auto manufacturers so a little sealant should not be an issue.
None of the model airplane engine manufacturers are makiing ultra high tolerane products, nor are they selling a new engine for $4,000.oo to $7,000.00 like the auto manufacturers so a little sealant should not be an issue.
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RE: DL-50 engine
I have unfortunately stripped the spart plug threads on my DL-50 and and looking for the best fix solution. Does anyone know where I can get a helicoil for it if there is a better alternative to fix my nuckel head mistake? Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark
Thanks,
Mark
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RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: mmontella
I have unfortunately stripped the spart plug threads on my DL-50 and and looking for the best fix solution. Does anyone know where I can get a helicoil for it if there is a better alternative to fix my nuckel head mistake? Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark
I have unfortunately stripped the spart plug threads on my DL-50 and and looking for the best fix solution. Does anyone know where I can get a helicoil for it if there is a better alternative to fix my nuckel head mistake? Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark