To everyone that replied.
Thanks for the info.
Joe

Gep - your procedure sounds like it's fine, and should be getting you where you need to be.
I'd contact your seller, and see if you can get a different complete CARB to try. Unless you want to dig into it and start troubleshooting the "pop off" pressure on the metering needle lever assembly.

Unless you are experienced with setting that lever, I don't recommend going there; you can end up with a carb that doesn't run at all, and risk the seller saying "you did it".

PM me.

Hi lill will,

I have a 22x10 Pro Zinger but I have not flown with it yet, >>> however, I have flown a couple of flights with a 20x10 Xoar and it did not make too much of a difference from my 20X8 Xoar prop. The RPM on the ground dropped to 6600. The 20x10 Xoar was a tad faster on straight and level flight, it also started faster on a vertical up line but dropped off in speed sooner than the 20x8 Xoar. The engine spools up a tad faster with the 20x8. All in all I prefer the 20x8 Xoar Sword, it pulls better when you want the power. My plane weighs just over 18lbs wet.

Bound_4_Hell

On this thread, and many others, folks have cautioned about trying to think/make a Zinger of any size perform well. Nearly everyone who flies aerobatic models learns very quickly that Zingers provide rpm and noise, and low thrust. Just about any other prop would be better.

Your performance with a DL 50, and either an NX, Xoar, or JXF 22 x 8 would just be an unbelievable improvement for you.

Many folks don't believe how ineffective Zingers are until they try a Mezjlik, Xoar, 3W, BME, JXF or NX. ANY of those, in the same diameter and pitch, will out pull any Zinger you could bolt on there.

Just suggestion that if you want optimal THRUST and best spool-up/transition and overall performance, dump the Zingers. [sm=thumbs_down.gif][sm=thumbs_down.gif]

Hi Bob,
I tried to PM you, but I don’t think it went through, as I do not see it in my inbox sent folder.

Anyway I have been to your website and read the Walbro tuning guide, I do not mind setting the needle leaver even if it's by trial and error. I do not have a " setting gage ". I'm very mechanically inclined and should have no problem with this. Any words of wisdom before I attempt this would be appreciated.

Thanks
Geppino


__________________________________________________

Now let's check out the "float needle & seat" setting.

This is the single most critical setting on a Walbro carb! Walbro offers a "setting gauge" to properly set the height of the lever for your particular carb. If you don't have one, the setting will be a trial & error adjustment and a real pain in the butt since you have to open up the carb to make the adjustment. For general purposes, the lever will be almost perfectly parallel to the carb base. This will get you close. If the lever is too high, your engine will tend to run a little erratic at idle. If the lever is too low, your idle will be OK but it will tend to run lean on midrange and highend. It may also run the float cavity "dry" at full throttle and die, regardless of your highspeed /lowspeed needle settings.

The needle valve seat is pressed into the carb base, and you should not remove this without having the correct tools and setting gauges. Do not remove it!

It came through.... had to go work on a firewall.
I have only tried to "tweak" a metering valve ONCE, and it was a horrible disaster. So, for me, that level of "tuning" is "replace carb". May not be the real engine guy's approach, but we have to do what we are comfortable with. I'm not comfortable inside a Walbro. Just like I wasn't comfortable rebuilding a Quadrajet decades ago on a Buick.

I'll answer your PM.

thanks boss

I have been spinning a PT Models Carbon Fiber 22x8 on my DL-50 at 7700 RPM. It's on an SD YAK 54. Great vertical. I've also heard of guys using a 24X8 on the DL-50. Anyone else heard of this huge prop on a DL-50?

What oil and ratio are you using to turn that at 7700 ? That is one hoss of an engine!
Mine is good, but not near that.

Hey guys, I love my DL50, but I keep on losing the pipe that comes out of the muffler, $20 a shot to have it braced, any suggestions? Should I just give up and buy a DA muffler?

I would like to know that myself, we only get around 7200 with a 22 X 8 JXF wood prop?
Tom
Valley View RC

Well I'm turing a 22x10 pt at 7200 using shaffers syn at 50:1 I think some of the wooden props you guys are using put more of a load on the engine I find that I get way more performance if I let it rev more, Oh and I'm at 3500 ft alt.

Bob,

I have another question about props. I know must serious aerobatic guys do not like Zingers. I had bought a MA wooden 22 x 8 for the first flights on my Giant Aeromaster and had good performance. I like the look of the Vess, so bit the bullet and bought a 22 x 8 and it was spectacular. At the same time I switched to synthetic oil at 50:1 and after a couple of engine runs and needle tweaks, hit 7400. Sadly, the Vess did not last the day, as I sort of "dorked" it in. Went ahead and re-ordered another Vess and, whoops, did it again. That's about $64 in props. Put the MA back on and you guessed it..dorked yet a third time. By now I am wondering if I have ever learned to land. Anyway, at the rate I am going thru props, I was looking for economy and ended buying two top flite power point, 22 x 10. I'm getting about 6400, but the plane seems to fly the same and the props were only $17 each. Higher pitch forces more speed on landing, and I have determined I am marginally tail heavy. This is a sport plane and does not really need the oomph of a DL with an exotic prop wringing every possible RPM out of it. BTW, flew yesterday in windy conditions and managed to bring my prop home without a scratch. Then again I aimed for the grass rather than the pavement.

I am going to have a fellow club member fabricate a steel nose hub for me. He will make it a little larger in diameter than the prop ring and will mill out four holes where the prop bolts will recess. Do you think hanging a few ounces (6-8) on the nose will have a detrimental effect on the engine? Bearings, crank, etc? Somebody cautioned against this, but I don't remember if it was this thread or another.

Thanks,

Greg

This may be an unusual question, but if Zinger, and Top Flite , props are so ineffecient and terrible performers, why do they keep making them. These manufacturers have access to the same design and development as others... hobby shops are stacked with these brands, as well as Master Airscrew...someone must be buying and using them, and are satisfied with the results.....
I'm not trying for an argument, just some input to my question..

I'm having the same problem. I went through two DL mufflers then went out and bought the new Silent Beauty from TBM and it did the same thing. I am now considering either a tuned pipe or a cannister.
I have no idea what is causing this. I have plenty of clearance where the down tube exits the cowl so, I know it is not being fatigued by the cowl vibrating against it.

Before using mine, I cut a gusset from aluminum, and had it heliarced at the junction of the can and the pipe....On a nose over, the pipe was bent at a 45' angle and the canister was crumpled on the end..The tube was still intact and no leaks.. been flying this way several times and no problems yet.. These mufflers are very thin and cheaply built, seems with the success of these engines DL could invest a few more pennies and construct a useable reliable product...

Many buy them in disbelief that they don't provide as good performance.
And, many users like them.
So they get purchased.

I'm not on a campaign AGAINST those brands, as much as I am encouraging folks to find the performance difference that better props give, and go that route, too.

Potato/Tomato
Ford/Chevy

It's all in what floats yer boat.

It is not that Zinger, Top Flite and MA's are "terrible" props, it just that there are better performers available. They are of course, usually more expensive. A lot depends on how you fly. Putt around and general sport flying, performance is not as critical and they are fine. If you want ultimate performance, you probably want to look at something else. People buy them because they are readily available through LHS and the big mail-order places (Tower). The high end, Vess, Menz, NX etc. are only sold by niche distributors. You will not find them at your LHS's. At least none that I have seen.

Mike

Bob

The engine is brand new (less than 2 gals fuel thru it). Oil ratio is 32 to 1 using Briggs and Stratton ashless right now. Will be moving tp Amsoil 100 at 80/85 to 1 after I finish the 2nd gallon.

Bought the DL 50 from you Tom. Thanks a bunch

Huggins.. Thank you for the reply.......I guess it amounts to, you get what you pay for..
By the way, i belong to the Converse club, and we will probably be flying tomorrow ( Tues)

also with a bit less noise output. I am getting ready to bolt the DL-50 on my new GP Ultimate. Not sure what I am going to do for exhaust system. I personally don't mind the original exhaust noise, but I catch some glares and comments at the field[&o]

Bruce

Thank you for the info.
That engine is truly a spectacular example of a DL 50, and probably needs to be torn down, mic'd, and blueprinted/reverse engineered to find out why in the world it is so extraordinary. No joke.
You evidently have the PERFECT combo of bearing tolerances, ring fit, cylinder size, rod bearings, and carb (not to mention about a dozen other things)...no kidding!
One in a million!!!

Hey guys,

I've mounted my new DL 50 in my 27% GP Extra 330S ARF (pics soon). I'm using the Slimline Pitts-style muffler that's made for the DA 50, but I cut about 1" - 1.5" from the exhaust tubes so the cowl would fit over them. Do you think this will hurt performance in any noticeable way or make it too loud (or louder than it would have been if I left the tubes the stock length)?

Too late now 'cause I already cut them, but what do you think?

Tim

My guess is because the cheap propellers do the simple job of pulling the models through the air at a cheap price. The better propellers do that and other things (breaking on down lines, more RPM/speed/thrust, less db, better appearance, balance????????????) too, but there must be enough modelers who are not willing to pay the higher price and do not need, want, know about or care about the added benefits to keep the cheap props selling. [sm=confused.gif]