OCR99

My Feedback: (3)

BJ"s engines 203-888-4819

Beacon Falls CT.

Rick

aussiesteve

They are an EMAS Carb ("Same" - spelt backwards) - they are an "Eastern" imitation of an HLIC carb. Most Chainsaw shops sell overhaul kits that fit them - the HLIC and I believe many Walbro kits are perfect replacements.

AJsToyz

Aerovate thread ??

AJsToyz

Well , thats what I've read on a few other threads , but like T.O.M. said , have to just try differant things. I wouldn't mind trying a can on my 40cc to see if it would spinn a larger prop.

Andy

bubba 9999

My Feedback: (8)

Thanks guys for the carb info. Does anyone know what model # Walbro would be a direct replacement for this carb. Thanks, Britt.

airscorcher

Has anybody removed the prop hub from an RCGF 50cc twin? I am new to gas engines and I have just aquired this engine but it practically shakes the wings off my Wild Hare Extra when idling. I noticed that the prop hub has a snapped off bolt in 1 of the holes and another bolt has been inserted diametrically opposite and cut off - presumably a crude attempt to balance it. I decided a good start would be to drill out the 2 studs using a mates drill press however I have so far not been able to remove the hub. I have removed the propeller shaft/retaining nut and then expected the hub to simply come off with a bit of encouragement. Many strikes later with a rubber mallet against the back of a ridge around the hub and still no joy, now wondering if there is some other trick mechanism holding the hub on e.g is the timing magnet actually a pin that passes through the engine output shaft? If anyone could advise I would be very grateful.

For the record the engine is still being run-in according to the previous owner, and he also mentioned that he had snapped off several props (advised me to buy some spares!). I notice from some posts here that prop strikes can be bad for the engine so now I'm wondering if some of the vibes could be due to damage, although my 1st suspicions are the prop hub due to the easons described above and also the prop which I have not balanced (my LHS said they don't really need balancing - as usual conflicting advice, and it's difficult to know which to follow!)

Bpar4

My Feedback: (1)

26cc RCgf: Fine engine, runs great. Could use a bit more power from it! It will hold an 11 lbs. airplane in hover, but has no pull out. It would be nice to get the power up a bit to get the thrust up to around 14 lbs. or higher. Has any one done anything to get the output up? Would a tuned pipe work?
Thanks to all for your comments on my other posts. Bob

AJsToyz

Bob,

I'm running a Xoar 17x8 on a 26CC not broken in yet and its pulling just under 14 lbs thrust. What prop are you running? and how much fuel have you had through it ?

Andy

Bpar4

My Feedback: (1)

Have about 2 - 3 gals through it. Have a Xoar 17x6, turns about 8300rpm. I have weighed the plane and fully fueled it weighs a bit over 12lbs. I have tried a carbon fiber no-name (17x8) and it did about the same thing. What are you turning with the Xoar 17x8? Bob

mogley

Hello,

I'm just to install the 26cc in my KMP focke wulf. Is anyone running an A123 as an ignition battery without a regulator? BPhobbies sells this engine and states that it works, contrary to the instructions.

thanks

Stefan

AJsToyz

My Stik weighs in @ 14 lbs dry and that poor little 26 is working it @$$ off ! Its turning 7600 on the 17x8 Xoar. Needless to say my plane does not go verticle with out a head start! LOL

AJsToyz

Stefan,

Take a voltage check on a fresh charged 5 cell 6V . The A123 fully charged is 7.2 volts, I'll even check mine when I get home to confirm it. The 5 cell is recommended by RCGF , thats all I'm going to say!

Andy

Piston

My Feedback: (1)

Hey All

Stefan emailed me with the request for information on the ignition voltage. Some interesting things on this and I would like to share them.

Here is something that we are getting word of..and having first hand experience with..

A while back, rcexl changed their processor from an 8 bit to a 16bit. No problem with that. Except since that time frame (March or so), many of us have been getting warranty claims on the ignitions. From ZERO to a dozen in a short time for me. Other guys who use this are also getting increased warranty claims too.

We seem to feel that it is the changes that they have made that are the root cause. I have an ignition that is of the older (pre March) style. I only run A123 batteries and I have NOT HAD A HICCUP. That said, some guys are running the A123 with the new style and have reported problems.

We cannot get an answer from the manufacturer yet. The ignitions are among the best in the market so their reliability is not in question, only the voltage at the 6 V+ level.
My recommendation.... If you are using the A123 batteries, go with a regulator. This way you will not have a problem!

In the past, I have recommended that the A123 batteries can be run without a regulator and with no problems. Based on the number of claims that I have been getting recently, until I get the official work from RCEXL, I will from now on recommend the use of regulators with the A123 batteries.

Cheers to all
Henry

Montague

Just one data point to the ignition thing, I was one of the guys that had an ignition failure. I was using a new, high quality 5-cell Nimh pack, and the ignition failed. I've been using a 4-cell Nimh pack with the same cell type after Henry sent the replacement and it's been running perfectly.

At full charge, the 5-cell Nimh pack was showing well over 6v under load, and since it was a 2600mah pack, it would hold that voltage, apparently long enough to kill my ignition after about 20min of run time. YMMV of course.

T3beatz

My Feedback: (4)

If you don't want to spend the $$$ for a hi end REG, get a UBEC... they work just fine also... and most put out 5v or 6V (switchable) @ 3A for under $9.99

Montague

good idea, and that's plenty of current for an ignition.

I've seen opto-isolated kill electronic kill switches for ignitions also not very expensive, and a nice bit of safety. Someone needs to make a combination regulator and optically isolated kill switch, plug in your Li-based battery, plug into a channel on the TX, and off you go. (I haven't looked, but it probably already exists somewhere)

VeeAte

2 pilots at our club have killed ignitions running 5 cell NimH/NiCD packs on the RCExcel ignitions.
Use a 4.8v pack. solves the issue.

(these may have been earlier versions of the ignition)

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062579
Use one or two 3 Amp diodes in series with your battery pack to drop the voltage. Cheaper, lighter and darn near fool proof.
John

aussiesteve

It is written very clearly on the ignition modules- (as supplied by the majority of engine manufacturers these days)

Voltage - 4.8 - 6.0v

Why run more?


These are the only reasons I can think of
Additional complexity - that is good for bragging rights
Additional cost - also good for bragging rights
Additional weight (caused by additional cells that are not needed).
Gives a good reason to complain when the ignition fails (Some people just liek to complain I guess)

Ok - some do get away with 5 cell packs - usually because they never fully charge them (by relying on a Wall wart or similar charger that is designed for 4 cell packs) - I am not sure about the recommendation given to run A123's but I am guessing it might also refer to Regulated A123's.

goirish

isn't the 6v battery a 5 cell? So should I be using the 4.8 instead. I don't want to be one of those complaining.

RichieN

My Feedback: (5)

6V is 6V. It doesn't matter how many cells you are using...

AJsToyz

Steve,

The only issue with the 6V is the industry has used 6V very loosely.

What is 6 Volts?

4 1.5 volt alkaline batteries fully charged @ 1.65 volts each = 6.6
5 1.2 volt rechargeable batteries fully charged ranging from 7.1 - 7.4 volts

It’s not the manufacturers fault or the users, it’s a pile of dung rolling down hill!! LOL

I do know some people like the fact that when you charge a Lipo and grab it two weeks later it’s almost fully charged same as A123. I do like the fact that while you’re letting the hair on the back of your neck fall back in place you can top off your batteries in 10 - 15 minutes with out to much worry. So for those I guess it’s just some type of regulator.

Andy

aussiesteve

That is my point - I should have made it clearer

a 5 cell NiMh or NiCd pack is NOT a 6.0 volt supply - it is higher.

a 4 cell NiMh / NiCd pack is also higher than 4.8v

Why use more than necessary?

I use 1100 mAh eneloop 4 cell packs on ALL of my RCExcel ignited engines. Since changing to the 4 cell packs, I have not had an ignition failure (touch wood). I made the change about 2 years ago after I had a run of failures and had it pointed out to me that the 5 cell packs I was using were really pointless and causing damage.

82ndsteve

My Feedback: (9)

I have a GPextra300 74'' 160,I'm looking for an engine for it,approx 13lb's aircraft.I was looking at the spe43 or the rcgf45. any thoughts.

outacntrl

go for the 45...u wont regret it love mine !!!!! put another hour of fly"n on it today... easy starts and flawless performance...what more could u ask for????