barry wetherell

Andika, do have measurement from top of cyl. head to the crankcase mount lug??
Thanks
Barry

Andika

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id...7&pid=E1624721

VF84sluggo

My Feedback: (55)

OIL QUESTION:

Lowe's carries Husqvarna 2-cycle oil. It's a synthetic oil and has a fuel stabilizer in it. Has anyone used this oil? I've got an RCGF 26cc.

aussiesteve

Yep - works good

VF84sluggo

My Feedback: (55)

Great! Thanks, Steve.

hyflyer9

Looking for parts for the rcgf26cc need new gasket set and a new rear crankcase any one know where I can get some parts . Bp hobbies are out of stock on these two items
Thank you
hyflyer9

hyflyer9

Hello all
I am looking for some parts foe the rcgf 26cc engine I need a new rear crank case and a new gasket set .
bp hobbies seems to be sold out of these items. Does any one know where i can get these parts
Thank you
hyflyer9

VF84sluggo

My Feedback: (55)

Gas question: My RCGF 26cc manual calls for 90 octane. Well, there's 89 and 93 at the pump. I'm assuming I should go with the 93...is that right? Or should I mix 89 and 93 to 'wag' a blend that is a net 90 octane?

I'm probably overthinking this. With my weedeater, I just dumped a bottle of 2-cycle oil that matched my 2.5 gallon can, and then put 2.5 gallons of 87 in it. But then again, that motor is on a weedeater and not on $1500-worth of flying machine.

johnshiell

Hi all,

Hoping you can help me. My RCGF 26cc petrol engine has stopped running. Its probably had about hours running in total and has been good up to now. The problem is that fuel is not getting into the cylinder. I have serviced the carburetta by stripping it down and rebuilding after cleaning and flushing out the internal components, gauze, plunger etc. I also back flushed the carb through one of the needles.

All of the carb components look in good order. I have checked the diaphram and gasket valve too.

The engine seems to not want to draw in fuel. There is definately a vacuum as I have felt it by removing the pipe from the crank case.

Once fuel is present in the line - as you turn over the engine I can see the fuel being drawn in and then pushed back again ( by observing bubbles in the fuel line).

Seems to me that the valves are not sealing but I can see nothing wrong with them.

I am thinking of buying a Walbro replacement or a gasket set.

If anyone has any ideas I would love to hear them,

For information - the engine started to run lean in the air so I landed straight away. When I went to adjust the engine there was no change to the engine performance even when I turned both needles by a couple of turns!

Thanks

John

spaceworm

I would try a new pump diaphram, but only one that is resistant to the ethanol in our gas (Like the tan or purple ones in the Walbro carbs kits). That should fix it if it was running ok before. Check also that there is no leak in the line from the engine to the carb. You said you feel vacuum, but is it getting to the carb pump diaphram? Otherwise, I think the problem is the carb which may need replaced. Fleabuy has pretty cheap ones.

Regards,

Richard

VF84sluggo

My Feedback: (55)

93 octane? 89 octane? 87? anyone?...anyone?

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Sluggo,

It seems odd, but I have found that the higher octane seems to make the engines run hotter. 87 octane seems to run all my engines fine.

Hope it helps.

FOOPED

My Feedback: (8)

I also run 87 octane and 91 and I did not see any difference. Just use a good 32-1 mix and tune and happy flying.

VF84sluggo

My Feedback: (55)

Thanks for the info about the gas octane. I don't know where folks are getting 90 octane, or even 91. The gas pumps I see all offer 87, 89, and 93.

On another note, my RCGF 26cc owner's manual says to switch to a 50:1 mix ratio with a synthetic oil:

After you have run a couple of gallons of fuel through, you can switch to a full synthetic 2 cycle oil mixed at a ratio of 50:1. Note that when you switch to synthetic 2-cycle oil, it is likely that the carburetor mixture and idle speed will need to be adjusted.

Are you saying I should use 32:1 instead? The Husqvarna synthetic I have comes in a 6.4 oz bottle and instructs to mix in 2.5 gallons for a 50:1 ratio.

hyflyer9

See link for mixture calculator [link=http://www.rcaer.com/pages/gas_oil_mix_calculator.cfm]Gas oil mix calculator-giant scale rc[/link]
This link should help you can use it to calculate as much or as little as you want[link]http://www.rcaer.com/pages/gas_oil_mix_calculator.cfm[/link]

dave de

My Feedback: (12)

i was having issues like that to. I didn't know what to do. When I was filling it up once, I plugged the overflow line which forced the fuel into the carb. From there, it was normal starting procedure & I have not had an issue since. Maybe it will work for you

FOOPED

My Feedback: (8)

There's a lot of replies as to what oil and ratios to use and what is the best to break your engine in with. I will as I see it stay with 32-1 penn for air cooled engines for the life of my engines unless I can see that I need to change for some unknown reason. There are engines that require a change after breakin to a synthetic oil. I think of it like this. If I do'nt foul the plug and I check the plug and looks light brown then I must be pretty close to where the engine carb settings should be. Just my thoughts and I do not know as much as others on this thread but it works for me. I would rather have oil than not enought oil as that is the life of our engines.

hyflyer9

I have found that while filling the tank for the first time of the Day if I choked it and flipped the prop about 5-6 times While filling and when I was ready to sart it up it only took about three flips with choke for it to fire up.
hyflyer9.

JVB

My Feedback: (2)

I have an RCGF 45. I'm adding a wrap-around pitts muffler from BP Hobbies. It's been recommended by many to brace the free end of the muffler. This muffler is made from very thin material. Any suggestions on how to attach a brace to the muffler. My thoughts are some type of clamp around the can or maybe poprivet something to the end. Thanks.

VF84sluggo

My Feedback: (55)

Thanks much for the links. Those are helpful tools. I gues I'm still stuck on what mix ratio to use, though. I can even find conflicting info in the RCGF manual itself. The "26cc Engine Specifications" box says "Gas/Oil Mix 25-40:1 (90 octane gasoline)", yet a few pages over you read the text I quoted about 50:1 mix ratio with synthetic oil.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Thought the same thing. When ordering a new wrap around through Jtec, he said a support would void his warranty. The harmonics of the engine will never match those of what you're fastening/supporting the end of the muffler to. Makes sense I guess, and haven't had any trouble to date. FWIW

Pop rivets and vibration are not a good match in my experience. They'll loosen quickly every time.

JVB

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the reply ahicks. I planned on attaching the brace to one of the engine mount bolts, so they should vibrate in unison for the most part. Maybe I will just give it a try as is. The previous muffler was a Jtec regular muffler and the mounting bolts would not stay tight until I wired the heads.

Whistling Death

What I did was take the muffler off lay it on it's side with the intake side down.
Now the round side of the canister will be facing up.
Take a ball peen hammer and LIGHTLY tap the center of the canister end cap.
Tap it till you have dish of about 3/16"-1/4" deep. Take care not to over do it here. An aluminum muffler will deform a good bit if you nudge it along. It you bang on it you will break the welds on the side of the canister.
Clean it very well with a stainless steel brush.
Apply [link=http://durafix.com/]Durafix[/link] till it puddles level with the egdes.
Now drill and tap in the center of the canister side for what ever size screw you plan of using to attach the bracket to it.
Dura fix is harder than aluminum so it will hold a screw very well.
You can use some gasket sealant between the bracket and the muffler to help prevent exhaust leakage. I use Ultra Copper gasket sealant for my muffler gaskets so it was on hand.
Has worked very well on my pitts wrap around.

JVB

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the idea Blake. They could easily provide for this when making the mufflers.

johnshiell

Thanks for that Richard.

I will have alook for a replacement carb or diaphram.

Regards,

John