RCGF Engines
08-15-2011, 10:16 AM
#5427
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RE: RCGF Engines
Whoops, let me clarify. I started out with upper 6900's on an 17/8 once It opened up to around 7200 I then changed out for the 18/8.The first couple of tank's with the 18/8were running around 7000. Has been slowly giong up, currently at 7300. I think it will settlebetween 7300-7400, but wouldn't swear to it.
Break-in with a 16/10 or a 17/8. I prefer the 17/8. If your comfortable with the rpm the 18/8 apcwill be fine.
Break-in with a 16/10 or a 17/8. I prefer the 17/8. If your comfortable with the rpm the 18/8 apcwill be fine.
08-15-2011, 10:27 AM
#5428
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RE: RCGF Engines
Well Like I said, off to the LHS to get a 17/8. We have a cub fly in this coming weekend and I want to put mine in the air. Really appreciate all the help. thanks
08-15-2011, 11:15 AM
#5430
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RE: RCGF Engines
I'll see if I can answer a couple of questions here.
Jim at Agape Racing and hobby has the timing wheel. http://www.agaperacingandhobby.com/
Hope this helps everyone in the tuning and troubleshooting their engines. The following applies to just about any engine that uses a Walbro type carb.
Try changing the plug. If that does not work here is the easiest way to set the needles on the engines.
1) Start by turning out both the high and low needles 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 turns.
2) Go full throttle and peak the high end with the high speed needle valve. When the engine sags you have gone too far. Back the needle off 1 hour or 1/12 of at turn.
3) Go full throttle and peak the engine using the low speed needle valve. When the engine sags back off the low end needle 1 hour or 1/12 of a turn. That’s right peak the engine using the low end needle. The reason for this is that the engine gets fuel from both needles once the engine comes off of idle.
4) Bring the engine down to idle. Adjust the low end rpm idle with the trim on your transmitter. The engine should not need any adjustment at this point.
The engine at this point should be almost perfect. It should transition from low to High speed without any burps. If the engine does not run good after this setup look for an air leek, bad reed valve or carb diaphragm.
Jim at Agape Racing and hobby has the timing wheel. http://www.agaperacingandhobby.com/
Hope this helps everyone in the tuning and troubleshooting their engines. The following applies to just about any engine that uses a Walbro type carb.
Try changing the plug. If that does not work here is the easiest way to set the needles on the engines.
1) Start by turning out both the high and low needles 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 turns.
2) Go full throttle and peak the high end with the high speed needle valve. When the engine sags you have gone too far. Back the needle off 1 hour or 1/12 of at turn.
3) Go full throttle and peak the engine using the low speed needle valve. When the engine sags back off the low end needle 1 hour or 1/12 of a turn. That’s right peak the engine using the low end needle. The reason for this is that the engine gets fuel from both needles once the engine comes off of idle.
4) Bring the engine down to idle. Adjust the low end rpm idle with the trim on your transmitter. The engine should not need any adjustment at this point.
The engine at this point should be almost perfect. It should transition from low to High speed without any burps. If the engine does not run good after this setup look for an air leek, bad reed valve or carb diaphragm.
08-15-2011, 12:08 PM
#5433
RE: RCGF Engines
ORIGINAL: gringopete
I'll see if I can answer a couple of questions here.
Jim at Agape Racing and hobby has the timing wheel. http://www.agaperacingandhobby.com/
Hope this helps everyone in the tuning and troubleshooting their engines. The following applies to just about any engine that uses a Walbro type carb.
Try changing the plug. If that does not work here is the easiest way to set the needles on the engines.
1) Start by turning out both the high and low needles 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 turns.
2) Go full throttle and peak the high end with the high speed needle valve. When the engine sags you have gone too far. Back the needle off 1 hour or 1/12 of at turn.
3) Go full throttle and peak the engine using the low speed needle valve. When the engine sags back off the low end needle 1 hour or 1/12 of a turn. That’s right peak the engine using the low end needle. The reason for this is that the engine gets fuel from both needles once the engine comes off of idle.
4) Bring the engine down to idle. Adjust the low end rpm idle with the trim on your transmitter. The engine should not need any adjustment at this point.
The engine at this point should be almost perfect. It should transition from low to High speed without any burps. If the engine does not run good after this setup look for an air leek, bad reed valve or carb diaphragm.
Jim at Agape Racing and hobby has the timing wheel. http://www.agaperacingandhobby.com/
Hope this helps everyone in the tuning and troubleshooting their engines. The following applies to just about any engine that uses a Walbro type carb.
Try changing the plug. If that does not work here is the easiest way to set the needles on the engines.
1) Start by turning out both the high and low needles 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 turns.
2) Go full throttle and peak the high end with the high speed needle valve. When the engine sags you have gone too far. Back the needle off 1 hour or 1/12 of at turn.
3) Go full throttle and peak the engine using the low speed needle valve. When the engine sags back off the low end needle 1 hour or 1/12 of a turn. That’s right peak the engine using the low end needle. The reason for this is that the engine gets fuel from both needles once the engine comes off of idle.
4) Bring the engine down to idle. Adjust the low end rpm idle with the trim on your transmitter. The engine should not need any adjustment at this point.
The engine at this point should be almost perfect. It should transition from low to High speed without any burps. If the engine does not run good after this setup look for an air leek, bad reed valve or carb diaphragm.
Karol
08-15-2011, 12:39 PM
#5434
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RE: RCGF Engines
what should the spark plug be gaped at? Is there a certain kind of plug that I should buy? I got the dang thing so messed up now. Why don't we leave well enough alone. Just have to keep fooling with it. That little miss just bothered the heck out of me. Now I can't get it to go over 5000. I took the plug out and it is dark in color, which would indicate to me that it is rich. Is the HSN the one farthest way of the engine body. I don't have any manual so I shooting in the dark. I'm about to put one of my 4 strokes on it. The plug has a gap on it of .020, is that close? I am using ultra full synthetic at 50:1 by stihl.
08-15-2011, 12:39 PM
#5435
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RE: RCGF Engines
Speaking of throttle curves (and lack of sensitivity of throttle when nearing wide open throttle) this treatise I did last year may be of some value for those wanting to do it electronically instead of fiddling with the geometry of throttle arm / servo arm.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...m.htm#10062619
Cheers,
littlera
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...m.htm#10062619
Cheers,
littlera
08-15-2011, 01:44 PM
#5436
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RE: RCGF Engines
Hey goirish,
Thats the right gap, 0.018-0.020, the CM6 NGK is a good plug. The electrode coming out of the plug should look like below nice light whitish tan and clean. Set you needles back to factory setting LSN is closets to the engine HSN is away. Start your engine and let it warm up a couple of min, then using a tach go to 2000 rpm set the low speed needle to peak rpm , then go full throttle using tach and set peak rpm idle back to 2000rpm check for peak rpm then throttle up full and check peak rpm. Now let the engine cool off about 15-20 min and check it again. As the engine breaks in you will need to do this about 2 more times. Also these engine don not respond to needle movement like nitro engines you may need to burp the throttle a little during tuning. The oil your using is good stuff but for break in you should be at 40:1.
Here is a good read for new gasser people, it helped me lots.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_86...tm.htm#8673009
Mark
Thats the right gap, 0.018-0.020, the CM6 NGK is a good plug. The electrode coming out of the plug should look like below nice light whitish tan and clean. Set you needles back to factory setting LSN is closets to the engine HSN is away. Start your engine and let it warm up a couple of min, then using a tach go to 2000 rpm set the low speed needle to peak rpm , then go full throttle using tach and set peak rpm idle back to 2000rpm check for peak rpm then throttle up full and check peak rpm. Now let the engine cool off about 15-20 min and check it again. As the engine breaks in you will need to do this about 2 more times. Also these engine don not respond to needle movement like nitro engines you may need to burp the throttle a little during tuning. The oil your using is good stuff but for break in you should be at 40:1.
Here is a good read for new gasser people, it helped me lots.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_86...tm.htm#8673009
Mark
08-15-2011, 02:51 PM
#5437
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RE: RCGF Engines
p51tom,
The prop bolt in my RCGF 45 is drilled and tapped for a 5mm spinner bolt. A 10-32 bolt will screw in but is very sloppy and should not be used. The Tru-Turn spinner on my Extra is not nearly as long as your P51 prop spinner is and I found a 5mm bolt long enough at a local Ace Hardware store. Good luck finding one long enough for you P51..............RJ
The prop bolt in my RCGF 45 is drilled and tapped for a 5mm spinner bolt. A 10-32 bolt will screw in but is very sloppy and should not be used. The Tru-Turn spinner on my Extra is not nearly as long as your P51 prop spinner is and I found a 5mm bolt long enough at a local Ace Hardware store. Good luck finding one long enough for you P51..............RJ
08-15-2011, 03:37 PM
#5438
My Feedback: (2)
RE: RCGF Engines
ORIGINAL: karolh
I never tried this method of engine tuning, but will give it a try and see how it all pans out. Guess there is some truth in the saying, '' more ways than one to skin a cat or tune an engine ''
Karol
ORIGINAL: gringopete
I'll see if I can answer a couple of questions here.
Jim at Agape Racing and hobby has the timing wheel. http://www.agaperacingandhobby.com/
Hope this helps everyone in the tuning and troubleshooting their engines. The following applies to just about any engine that uses a Walbro type carb.
Try changing the plug. If that does not work here is the easiest way to set the needles on the engines.
1) Start by turning out both the high and low needles 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 turns.
2) Go full throttle and peak the high end with the high speed needle valve. When the engine sags you have gone too far. Back the needle off 1 hour or 1/12 of at turn.
3) Go full throttle and peak the engine using the low speed needle valve. When the engine sags back off the low end needle 1 hour or 1/12 of a turn. That’s right peak the engine using the low end needle. The reason for this is that the engine gets fuel from both needles once the engine comes off of idle.
4) Bring the engine down to idle. Adjust the low end rpm idle with the trim on your transmitter. The engine should not need any adjustment at this point.
The engine at this point should be almost perfect. It should transition from low to High speed without any burps. If the engine does not run good after this setup look for an air leek, bad reed valve or carb diaphragm.
Jim at Agape Racing and hobby has the timing wheel. http://www.agaperacingandhobby.com/
Hope this helps everyone in the tuning and troubleshooting their engines. The following applies to just about any engine that uses a Walbro type carb.
Try changing the plug. If that does not work here is the easiest way to set the needles on the engines.
1) Start by turning out both the high and low needles 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 turns.
2) Go full throttle and peak the high end with the high speed needle valve. When the engine sags you have gone too far. Back the needle off 1 hour or 1/12 of at turn.
3) Go full throttle and peak the engine using the low speed needle valve. When the engine sags back off the low end needle 1 hour or 1/12 of a turn. That’s right peak the engine using the low end needle. The reason for this is that the engine gets fuel from both needles once the engine comes off of idle.
4) Bring the engine down to idle. Adjust the low end rpm idle with the trim on your transmitter. The engine should not need any adjustment at this point.
The engine at this point should be almost perfect. It should transition from low to High speed without any burps. If the engine does not run good after this setup look for an air leek, bad reed valve or carb diaphragm.
Karol
08-15-2011, 05:12 PM
#5440
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RE: RCGF Engines
That is reasonable.... any where in the 7k range is good because it will unload in the air by 500 to 800 RPM depending on the prop you are running.
Captmicom
Captmicom
08-16-2011, 02:56 AM
#5442
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RE: RCGF Engines
I got my 26cc RCGF engine from BP Hobbies and put it on a Seagull Laser 200. I'm very happy with the engine and the support I got from BP Hobbies.
http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=V815101
http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=V815101
08-16-2011, 04:09 AM
#5443
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RE: RCGF Engines
P51Tom
We have the long spinner bolts that you are looking for. Here is the link
http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=E1294667
Gregg
We have the long spinner bolts that you are looking for. Here is the link
http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=E1294667
Gregg
08-16-2011, 05:11 AM
#5445
RE: RCGF Engines
ORIGINAL: Captmicom
That is reasonable.... any where in the 7k range is good because it will unload in the air by 500 to 800 RPM depending on the prop you are running.
Captmicom
That is reasonable.... any where in the 7k range is good because it will unload in the air by 500 to 800 RPM depending on the prop you are running.
Captmicom
It is not unsual for some small capacity gas engines to unload as much as 1,500 + rpm in the air.
Karol
08-16-2011, 06:48 PM
#5446
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RE: RCGF Engines
ORIGINAL: gringopete
I'll see if I can answer a couple of questions here.
Jim at Agape Racing and hobby has the timing wheel. http://www.agaperacingandhobby.com/
Hope this helps everyone in the tuning and troubleshooting their engines. The following applies to just about any engine that uses a Walbro type carb.
Try changing the plug. If that does not work here is the easiest way to set the needles on the engines.
1) Start by turning out both the high and low needles 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 turns.
2) Go full throttle and peak the high end with the high speed needle valve. When the engine sags you have gone too far. Back the needle off 1 hour or 1/12 of at turn.
3) Go full throttle and peak the engine using the low speed needle valve. When the engine sags back off the low end needle 1 hour or 1/12 of a turn. That’s right peak the engine using the low end needle. The reason for this is that the engine gets fuel from both needles once the engine comes off of idle.
4) Bring the engine down to idle. Adjust the low end rpm idle with the trim on your transmitter. The engine should not need any adjustment at this point.
The engine at this point should be almost perfect. It should transition from low to High speed without any burps. If the engine does not run good after this setup look for an air leek, bad reed valve or carb diaphragm.
Jim at Agape Racing and hobby has the timing wheel. http://www.agaperacingandhobby.com/
Hope this helps everyone in the tuning and troubleshooting their engines. The following applies to just about any engine that uses a Walbro type carb.
Try changing the plug. If that does not work here is the easiest way to set the needles on the engines.
1) Start by turning out both the high and low needles 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 turns.
2) Go full throttle and peak the high end with the high speed needle valve. When the engine sags you have gone too far. Back the needle off 1 hour or 1/12 of at turn.
3) Go full throttle and peak the engine using the low speed needle valve. When the engine sags back off the low end needle 1 hour or 1/12 of a turn. That’s right peak the engine using the low end needle. The reason for this is that the engine gets fuel from both needles once the engine comes off of idle.
4) Bring the engine down to idle. Adjust the low end rpm idle with the trim on your transmitter. The engine should not need any adjustment at this point.
The engine at this point should be almost perfect. It should transition from low to High speed without any burps. If the engine does not run good after this setup look for an air leek, bad reed valve or carb diaphragm.
Thanks for the tuning technique!
Question - in steps 2 and 3, can you please explain, "1 hour or 1/12 of a turn", which seems like a text format error that happened when posted.
Thanks...Ron
08-16-2011, 07:01 PM
#5447
RE: RCGF Engines
ORIGINAL: rfk1381
Greg,
Thanks for the tuning technique!
Question - in steps 2 and 3, can you please explain, ''1 hour or 1/12 of a turn'', which seems like a text format error that happened when posted.
Thanks...Ron
ORIGINAL: gringopete
I'll see if I can answer a couple of questions here.
Jim at Agape Racing and hobby has the timing wheel. http://www.agaperacingandhobby.com/
Hope this helps everyone in the tuning and troubleshooting their engines. The following applies to just about any engine that uses a Walbro type carb.
Try changing the plug. If that does not work here is the easiest way to set the needles on the engines.
1) Start by turning out both the high and low needles 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 turns.
2) Go full throttle and peak the high end with the high speed needle valve. When the engine sags you have gone too far. Back the needle off 1 hour or 1/12 of at turn.
3) Go full throttle and peak the engine using the low speed needle valve. When the engine sags back off the low end needle 1 hour or 1/12 of a turn. That’s right peak the engine using the low end needle. The reason for this is that the engine gets fuel from both needles once the engine comes off of idle.
4) Bring the engine down to idle. Adjust the low end rpm idle with the trim on your transmitter. The engine should not need any adjustment at this point.
The engine at this point should be almost perfect. It should transition from low to High speed without any burps. If the engine does not run good after this setup look for an air leek, bad reed valve or carb diaphragm.
Jim at Agape Racing and hobby has the timing wheel. http://www.agaperacingandhobby.com/
Hope this helps everyone in the tuning and troubleshooting their engines. The following applies to just about any engine that uses a Walbro type carb.
Try changing the plug. If that does not work here is the easiest way to set the needles on the engines.
1) Start by turning out both the high and low needles 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 turns.
2) Go full throttle and peak the high end with the high speed needle valve. When the engine sags you have gone too far. Back the needle off 1 hour or 1/12 of at turn.
3) Go full throttle and peak the engine using the low speed needle valve. When the engine sags back off the low end needle 1 hour or 1/12 of a turn. That’s right peak the engine using the low end needle. The reason for this is that the engine gets fuel from both needles once the engine comes off of idle.
4) Bring the engine down to idle. Adjust the low end rpm idle with the trim on your transmitter. The engine should not need any adjustment at this point.
The engine at this point should be almost perfect. It should transition from low to High speed without any burps. If the engine does not run good after this setup look for an air leek, bad reed valve or carb diaphragm.
Thanks for the tuning technique!
Question - in steps 2 and 3, can you please explain, ''1 hour or 1/12 of a turn'', which seems like a text format error that happened when posted.
Thanks...Ron
Adjusting the high or low needles by "1 hour or 1/12 of a turn" also means 5 mins. of the hour hand or 5 sec. of the second hand on the clock face.
Karol
08-16-2011, 07:47 PM
#5448
My Feedback: (1)
RE: RCGF Engines
I decided to tap the shaft for a 6mm bolt and use a 6mmx1.0x110mm bolt from Bolt Depot. They do not carry 5mm bolts that long. Thank you BP Hobbies but your 5mm bolts are too short. I will let everyone know how things work out. This Don Brown 5" P51 spinner needs a bolt about 4.25" long. Bolt Depot on the InterNet has a great assortment of hardware and does not require a minimum order.
Thanks everyone, P51Tom
Thanks everyone, P51Tom
08-17-2011, 07:07 AM
#5450
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RE: RCGF Engines
ORIGINAL: p51tom
I decided to tap the shaft for a 6mm bolt and use a 6mmx1.0x110mm bolt from Bolt Depot. They do not carry 5mm bolts that long. Thank you BP Hobbies but your 5mm bolts are too short. I will let everyone know how things work out. This Don Brown 5'' P51 spinner needs a bolt about 4.25'' long. Bolt Depot on the InterNet has a great assortment of hardware and does not require a minimum order.
Thanks everyone, P51Tom
I decided to tap the shaft for a 6mm bolt and use a 6mmx1.0x110mm bolt from Bolt Depot. They do not carry 5mm bolts that long. Thank you BP Hobbies but your 5mm bolts are too short. I will let everyone know how things work out. This Don Brown 5'' P51 spinner needs a bolt about 4.25'' long. Bolt Depot on the InterNet has a great assortment of hardware and does not require a minimum order.
Thanks everyone, P51Tom
I would like to know how it works out for you.